Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

so i got a 218 and i think some of the spark plug wires are not in the right place, can some one give me a wiring diagram for the spark plug wires

Posted

This was something that caused me a real issue recently after all my leads had been removed. I eventually found that my distributor had not been indexed correctly so number 1 lead was around the 5 o'clock position as opposed to the 11 o'clock position on the cap that it should of been.

I found a tip on here, put your thumb over the empty plug hole on number 1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the compression pops your thumb off, then take off your dizzy cap and see where the rotor arm is pointing. Rotor arm should be pointing pretty close to number 1 lead position.

Posted

or...when you feel pressure on your thumb, stop and look at the timing marks. Manually rotate the engine clockwise, till the marks line up at 0 degrees. The position of the rotor will now be pointing to the #1 tower of the cap.

Normally, as it left the factory, it should be pointing at 7 o'clock unless someone messed with it.

Posted

I'll echo; put #1 piston at top-dead-center and your distributor rotor will be pointed at #1, too. Then just run your plug wires clockwise in the 153624 firing order. You have to get the #1 lined up per the distributor, you can't always rely on where it "should" be.

Posted

alright so i checked it and i did the thumb test and my 1st spark plug wire on the cap is at 11 o'clock is that normal? maybe my timing is off? how can i loosen up the distributor so i can adjust the timing? and its for a 52 concord 218 i dont know if it will make a difference being a different year

Posted

For timing the engine... with the #1 piston on compression check your timing mark on the vibration damper.... set it to the TDC mark. If crankshaft is past the TDC mark back it off and slowly turn crankshaft forward by turning the fan. You may have to press down on the fan belt to make it grab.

Points should JUST be opening with rotor pointing to #1 plug wire.

2 ways to know exactly when points are opening. Loosen the clamp that holds the distributor down. Put a bit of cigarette paper or cellophane between the points. Slowly turn distributor forward until you can pull the paper out. The points are just open.

Or, use a 12 volt test light. Clip the wire to the movable point, or to coil wire that goes to the points. Same thing. Ground the test light. Turn on the key, the light will be off. Turn the distributor until the light goes on. That will be the moment the points open.

With the points set, clamp down the distributor (not too tight).

Now you KNOW the points are opening at the right time.

By the way if you want to adjust the points gap now is the time to do it, before you reset the timing. Points gap .020. If points are not new you have to file them flat to get a true reading or clean with 600 wet or dry paper and a shot of contact cleaner or brake clean spray. Don't forget a dab of grease on the cam about as big as a match head.

Posted (edited)

There is a second way to find TDC. There is a small plug in the head above #6 piston. If you take out this plug you can stick a screwdriver or wire in and feel the piston rise and fall. Turn the engine forward until the piston is all the way up. #1 and #6 rise and fall together so #1 will automatically be at TDC or top dead center.

If you use a wire for this bend it into a T shape and make sure it can't fall into the hole.

There is a slotted plate at the base of the distributor. By loosening the bolt you can rotate the distributor to adjust timing.

To adjust point gap you must loosen the screw that holds the points to the distributor and move the bottom point.

Edited by Rusty O'Toole
Posted

Static Time it with the engine not running for a starting point.

Then start the engine and dynamic time it with a timing light or vacumn gauge.

Or like us poor old boys did in days of old - by ear. Test drive it - tweak it again, test drive it, etc.:D

Tom

Posted

I suggest you go to the main page supporting this forum and read everything there. The information found on that web page can be your best friend. If you dont know how to get there simply click on the "Return to P15-D24.Com" on the toolbar above.

The forum search function can be your next best friend.

Posted

52 Concord,

Don has given you the best advice. The only other advice to be given is to also buy a service manual for your car. An older helper can also aleviate a lot of guess work and pain. Trying to tune one of these cars with the modern octanes and garbage ethanol gasolines today is becoming an art.

Usually whatever the service manual suggests as a good timing (say 2 degrees before top dead center) advanced about 4 degrees is a good dynamic setting for your timing). That is assuming you know what TDC is and where your marks are on your Damper etc. The best way to time it is:

1. Set Point gap.@.020

2. Check Dwell.@38 Degrees

3. Set Timing @ 6 BTDC

4. Check Vacumm @18-20" (Steady Hand) or something else is wrong.

5. Tweak RPM @450RPM

Good Luck.:)

Tom

PS. I buy Ethanol Free Gasoline now in NC. the Garbage gas gives crappy mpg and makes my vehicles run less efficiently. Go to Google and type in Ethanol free Gas closest to your Zip Code, it will show you a drop down list of stations in your area - try it you'll feel like your driving a real car again.

Posted

alright thanks guys sorry for all these questions im just new to these cars. i was reading that the number 1 tower on the cap should be pointing at 7 o'clock and mine is pointing at 11 o'clock its on a iat distributor.

Posted

While we're on the subject does anyone know where I can get a 6v timing light. I've looked at parts stores and they don't seem to exist. Sears has only 12v. What I've done in the past is hook it up to a 12v battery but that's a lot of extra work.

Posted
extra work..well it is an added step, but how often you check the timing? You must have a fleet of 6 volt cars for this to be a real issue

I know I would get pretty aggrivated if I had to park my daily driver next to my 6 volt car once every couple of days to power up my timing light. :rolleyes:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WILMAR-SELF-POWERED-TIMING-LIGHT-W80578-/280859207896#vi-content

Posted
While we're on the subject does anyone know where I can get a 6v timing light. I've looked at parts stores and they don't seem to exist. Sears has only 12v. What I've done in the past is hook it up to a 12v battery but that's a lot of extra work.

This is a timing light I use on 6 volts.It gives a very bright flash.It's an old Sun model 45,I believe Allen made an almost identical unit.They show up for sale occasionally.

I was lucky to pick this up at an auction sale.A fellow bought a lot of tools at the auction - didn't want the timing light,he sold it to me for $10.00.I was happy to get it.

I didn't know whether or not it worked when I bought it,but was happy to find that it worked great..

post-423-13585368016066_thumb.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use