Getting the old tub ready for winter...

[bamfordsgarage]

Most places this might involve fuel stabilizer and a car cover. Around here it means making sure the old gal will start at 20 below and keep the windows clear enough for safe driving.

I've driven the D25 occasionally most winters, but starting it in sub-zero temperatures has been a real pain. My heater blows decent air volume but by the time the air meanders through the defroster ducts (especially the long one to the driver's side) there is precious little warmth left.

Friend Jerry and I plan to drive up past the Arctic Circle and on the ice road to Tuktoyaktuk in the Northwest Territories next March, so this winter prep and upgrades will doubtless come in handy then.

1. I don’t mind modifications from stock but don’t care for anthing looking new or modern. All “winter-ready” preparations on the old Dodge look, as does the car-top carrier, like they might have been on the car for 40-50 years.

2. This battery warmer was in my late Dad’s stuff — the instruction sheet was dated 1967 although the package looks a bit newer. Anyway, it works just fine, and, unlike a modern battery blanket, is hidden completely from view.

3. Heater cord is black rubber — new but looks old — and corralled on a bracket homemade from scrap steel and a weathered 2x4. This cord powers the 70wt battery warmer, a 100wt in-line water heater, and a 125wt magnetic oil pan heater. That oughta do it!

4. Most northern forum members will remember frost shields, but who’s seen ‘em in the last 20 years? I was suprised to learn that a company in Brandon, Manitoba, is still making them (www.tarpsandfilters.com). They work by creating an insulating air space between the window glass and the interior. Even though the air space is very shallow, the shields can be surprisingly effective at reducing or eliminating window fogging. There’s a 10”x20” shield on the back window...

5. And a 7”x13” shield on each front door. Their low profile does not catch on the window felts when the glass is rolled up and down. Total cost for the one larger shield and four small ones, including postage, was $44.70. I ordered the two extras with the hope of using them on the windshields, but the view through is a little too distorted for that.

Part 2 in a few minutes...

[54Illinois]

Thanks for posting!

[bamfordsgarage]

Part 2...

My defroster is borderline useless in really cold weather. We've been thinking about adding a second heater, dedicated to the defrosters only, but in the meantime I took inspiration from a photo I've seen of Soviet-era trucks up in Siberia. These trucks appeared to have a second layer of glass covering much of their flat windshields, creating durable and effective "double-glazing" just like we have in homes.

6. I first made an accurate pattern for each side (there were minor differences) which the glass shop used to cut 1/4" laminated safety glass to the required size.

7. After the glass is scored and broken on each side of the cut, the edges are pulled apart slightly and lighter fluid poured into the crack. The fluid is lit and as it burns, it heats/softens/allows-to-tear the vinyl inner layer.

8. The edges are smoothed, rounded and adjusted to size on this 180-grit water-cooled belt sander.

9. The glass is sealed, and secured in place, with 3/16" thick glaziers' "440 tape". This tape is very sticky and a great adhesive, but not mushy and does not come off on your hands (or anything else).

10. The outside glass is positioned exactly before being dropped into place. You pretty much want to be right the first time with this step. After the glass is in the hole, one goes around the perimeter applying pressure to make sure the tape is well stuck on both surfaces.

Looking back at picture 1, previous post, the black perimeter tape is barely visible. Even close up it's not particularly noticeable and certainly not unsightly. The whole assembly of tape and glass comes barely up to the level of the surrounding trim. Wiper action and parking are not affected.

Bring on the cold!

[greg g]

don't forget the old piece of thread bare carpet for in front of the radiator. Seems like your trip is crying out for a southwing gasoline heater. My father had one of those rubber bladed fans he used to augment the defrosters meagry output.

Whattya gonna run for rubber??? They used to make some gnarly skinny 16 in knobbies, There was a pair mounted up when I got my coupe they worked good with snow but were really lousy on hardpack. Suppose chains are in the picture for you.

You guys are having too much fun.

[Mark Haymond]

I remember a TV video of Soviet freight trucks with double pane windshields. I seem to remember they were even circulating hot air in between the layers for their arctic road trips. They were prepared for blizzard conditions. I wonder how snow cats and other extreme vehicles handle the problem?

[T120]

Chris,I worked in the Arctic for a number of years and spent many hours driving on the ice roads during the winter in the Mackenzie Delta region - on the river, the tundra and out on the frozen Beaufort.

I was driving newer vehicles of course.It will be quite an adventure for you and Jerry to be sure,especially with the old Dodge...

[greg g]

Hey weren't the original Bombardier Snow cats powered by MOPAR flat 6's??? Engine shold be good to go.

[bamfordsgarage]

Greg, that's a great idea — I often use cardboard in front of old radiators, but threadbare carpet would be a better look.

A Southwind would be nice, but I haven't got the firewall space inside the car. I do have a second Mopar #36 heater from my parts car, but there doesn't seem to be any reasonable place to install it either. I'm considering a pancake-type auxiliary heater under the front seat that would be plumbed (Tee-d) into the lines to and from the factory heater — with carpet covering the radiator and a 190° stat there ought to be enough engine heat to supply both heaters.

We do have and will take chains, but they need a little modification to suit the tires I'm running now (Firestone 600x16, below left, in blackwall). Not sure yet about new tires — the one you illustrated looks like Firestone Knobby 600x16 ($170 @ Universal). They look great but would be an expensive touch by the time I get four up here. Also thinking about Firestone Military 600x16 6-ply NDT @ $105 (below right). Either way we'll carry two or three mounted spares up top. Flats were our most common problem on our big trip south.

I've got about 15,000 miles on my current tires and they are showing some wear — because the car wintered at Jim Yergin's place last year, this season will be the first real snow experience with them.

Any and all opinions on tires are welcomed.

Ralph — we'll need to talk sometime this winter about your experiences up north and what we might expect. What do you think about appropriate tires? Are a lot of people running chains as well, or is it more likely we carry them just in case?

[greg g]

Why not build a bracket, mount the spare 36 inthe back seat for general heat. You could set that up with the defroster ducts outleting under the front seat and the firewall one dedicated to defroster. You would need to figure out the plumbing, but a couple warm hoses running throughthe passenger compartment couldn't hurt either.

Also zip tie the return hose to the intake manifold, it will need all the heat it can get

You might also want to figure out or pirate from a later car, some sort of air cleaner that would pick up air from near the exhaust manifold.

By the way got a better idea for tires...scroll down to the 4th picture...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=631598&highlight=speedsters

I had an old van, hung a clear shower curtain behind the seats to make the heated area smaller.

[T120]

Chris, Most of the miles I drove on the ice roads was driving a Ford 3/4 ton 4wd Crew Cab.We had winter tires.I'm not sure what to recommend for the 16'' rims,both those treads look pretty decent,probably choose the one you favour.

On the river, the roads were well maintained when I was there (1975-1985).I never had to put on a set of chains while in the arctic,but always carried them,used them further south in the mountains at times.On the delta there's no trees and not many hills of any consequence.There was a lot of traffic at times on the ice roads with trucks hauling oil field equipment.We could drive 50 mph on the river no problem with a good wide road Sometimes in the early spring there's water on top of the ice in places but the ice is solid underneath.

We always carried winter survival gear.I still have my lightweight mummy style Mt Blanc sleeping bag and my North Slope parka in the closet.One item to be sure and take is a really good pair of sunglasses, the sun reflecting on the snow can be blinding while driving.Another required item is a bottle of overproof rum - can be used to help get a fire started,can be used for de icing,and also for medicinal purposes..

[greg g]

Gotta learn this trick also

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeCrqNIpiMM

[RobertKB]

Chris, sounds like you are getting ready for another great adventure. I know we will all be looking forward to your reports and pictures. Have you done the engine work you were going to do after your problems with the piston?

[Don Coatney]

I would also suggest you get well suited.

[Plymouthy Adams]

you right Don, them two look suited for each other...

[bamfordsgarage]

They make a charming couple in furs and beadwork, Don, but we both have insulated overalls that will likely be the garb of choice for driving.

Greg, good thoughts about simply mounting the second heater behind the front seat with hoses running over the floor. I would be inclined to have it discharge right there rather than route it back to the front area — those ducts can really reduce air flow. Points noted on the underhood modifications.

Thanks Ralph for your suggestions and comments. I'll refer the authorities to you if we are ever questioned about an open bottle of overproof de-icer.

Robert, the engine work is still ahead. I've been running the car (mostly local speeds and distance) with the broken #2 piston and top ring since April. I want to keep the car on the road until the end of November but will be able to get after it in December. It's a calculated risk — there may be scoring in the cylinder, and I remember Don C's photo of a ventilated block. To a large extent this delay is in keeping with my inclination to use the old Dodge like a five or 10 year old car... shadetree repairs, screw stuff to the roof, ignore torn upholstery and body rust, drive it on long trips...

For me its all part of the vintage motoring experience. Back in the day it would not be uncommon for an owner to do exactly what we did six months ago in my driveway — remove the cylinder head, pick out the broken bits, reuse the head gasket, and drive it like nothing happened. I drove my '24 Model T Speedster for a year and a half with a "temporary" belt leather bearing in the #1 rod, and only replaced it when I had the engine apart for something else.

[Vintage Metal]

This is a great thread!

[Don Coatney]

I dont think you will be the first old Dodge to navagate snow roads.

[Captain Neon]

Y'all are crazy, but I love it!

[Plymouthy Adams]

training aid for the local police

the detective in the picture is clearly pointing out the stop sign...yes it is there..no it is not our job to dig it out..it is your job as a motorist to be aware of your surroundings at all time and comply with the letter of the law to a tee..and if you fail, our patrolmen will gladly remind you at 125.00 a lesson plus court cost..

[Desotodav]

Detective's must be different in your part of the world Tim as ours don't write tickets here. There is generally a 'them and us' thing happening here, but we know that 'real' police work here is usually done by a police Traffic Officer!

Desotodav

[bamfordsgarage]

Got the second heater, a Mopar #36 from my '47 D25 parts car, installed today.

Photos:

There was a 3.5 knockout available on the passenger firewall, centred above the heater;

Shortened the heater mounts and inlet/outlet, soldered rings around the inlet/outlet tubes, fashioned a plywood plate to rest on the floormat, and screwed a 1/8"x3/4" strap iron bar onto the bottom rear of the housing (can be screwed to floor if necessary);

Left a extra couple feet on both hoses so the heater can be moved out of the way if/when the floor mat and pan have to be removed;

Spliced the extra heater hoses into the factory hoses, they pass through the firewall via a 5/16" plywood plate which covers the knockout;

I used the heater switch from the parts car, mounted it the spare opening far left using a heater knob from some other switch.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _

I could use three or four original style heater hose clamps and an original heater knob if anyone has these to spare...

[greg g]

MMMMMMMMMMMMMM! toasty.

Perhaps they might even function as a beverage warmer.

Don't forget to consider the shower curtain trick. As hung behind the rear seat to conserve as much heat as possible in front.

Edited November 5, 2011 by greg g

[Young Ed]

What heater knob?I might have one and should have some clamps that might need new screws. If they wont unscrew I hacksaw the screw to save the band.

[bamfordsgarage]

Greg, this new heater is in the spot where I had a rubbish can/cup holder affair. I cannot go far without coffee, so will be fashioning some kind of cup holder to attach to the new heater — perhaps a period tin can screwed down to the top near the rear edge. Still thinking about a shower curtain, don't really want to disturb the headliner so might have the "curtain rod" arced from one side to the other just below the fabric.

Ed, in the last photo you can see the HEATER knob, far left, is lighter and brighter than the factory one which is second from right. Not a big deal, but it looks a little too new and modern (likely '70s) compared to the rest of the car. Several original hose clamps would be great, I have vintage machine screws to suit on hand.

[greg g]

Hey how about mounting it upside down, Is the bottom removeable? You could form a new one with the cup holders built in to the new bottom (top) piece.