Truck won't start, getting frustrated

[Jaker110]

49 Fargo has spark, fuel, compression, but doesn't want to start. Does a lot of backfiring and sputtering. I think I have spark plug cables in right positions on distributor. Any help is much appreciated thanks.

[Todd B]

Sounds like it may be out of time.

[HanksB3B]

Flooded?

Hank

[B1B Keven]

Distributor is 180* out?

[Rusty O'Toole]

You think you have the plug wires in the right position? Suggest you check this out carefully. #3 and #4 are particularly easy to get switched.

[Jaker110]

Can the distributor be 180 out I thought it would only go on oneway ? I ve checked plug wires but they must be wrong .

[B1B Keven]

Can the distributor be 180 out I thought it would only go on oneway ? I ve checked plug wires but they must be wrong .

The distributor has a slot drive like a slot tip screwdriver. It can only go in correct or 180 out.

[Rusty O'Toole]

If you suspect the timing is out...

Remove #1 spark plug. Also the pipe plug in #6 if you do not have timing marks.

Turn the engine over by hand until you get a *woosh* of air out of #1 cylinder. This indicates it is on the compression stroke.

Line up the timing marks, or set #6 piston to TDC. #1 and #6 rise and fall together. The pipe plug in #6 allows you to use a wire or small screwdriver to feel the piston and find TDC (top dead center).

With #1 at TDC, check the distributor. Is the rotor pointing to #1 plug wire? Are the points just opening?

Correct as necessary. To set the points you can use a 6 volt test light. Connect across the points. Turn the distributor, when the points open the light will come on.

Or you can use a cigarette paper. Put the paper between the points. Tug on it gently as you turn the distributor. When the points open it will come free.

When the points open, the spark fires.

Now be sure the rotor is pointing to #1 and check the other plug wires are connected in the right order.

Having done this, you KNOW the spark is happening at the right time no guess work. By the process of elimination you can go on to the next step.

Such as, take the plugs out and check if they are firing. If they are badly fouled they may need to be sandblasted before they will work.

If the engine is badly flooded the gas can wash down the cylinders causing low compression. The solution is to shoot a little oil into the cylinders to oil the rings.

When the engine starts maintain a fast idle for a few minutes to warm up the engine and burn off the excess gas and oil, then it should idle down and run normally.

[Dave72dt]

Pull the front spark plug out and the coil wire. With your thumb or finger in the spark plug hole, bump the engine over until engine compression wants to push your thumb out of the hole. Check the location of the rotor. It should be pointing to the terminal in the cap that feeds that cylinder. If it doesn't, you'll have to move the wires in the cap so it does or if it's pointing to the opposite terminal, pull the distributor and turn the rotor 180 degrees and reinstall. Also, note which direction the rotor turns when installed and the wires follow in the same direction.

[Don Coatney]

Is this a first time startup? What work has been done on the engine?

[Jaker110]

It's a first time startup for me, the truck went away running but I've played with the sparkplug wires now also had a stuck valve so I had the head off to free it. I put a new head gasket in nothing serious work wise had the carb apart just have it on a gravity feed couldn't get fuel pump to work. Should I try new spark plugs too maybe spark is to weak. I had it hooked up to a 12 volt also to really spin it over. I will try checking the timing now with the suggested method. I was getting pretty discouraged for a bit. Thanks for the help.

[Don Coatney]

If it was running then the first thing to look as is what work was done.

[Jaker110]

Does the firing order start at the firewall or front of truck ?

[Plymouthy Adams]

firing order starts with #1..the piston closest to the thermostat housing...then wiring it as per the firing order...only think you may need to cautious of at this time is...distributor 180 out and or...you are trying to establish firing order on the distributor by the book when in fact..the oil pump is not properly indexed to the cam..one must establish TDC #1 and verify the position of the rotor button to the cap..if off from the traditional 7 o'clock position..if at 1 o'clock lift and rotate 180 the distributor shaft and reseat, if off but a bit say one or two plug towers, either index your wires to what you have or do it correct for all future work..and properly index the oil pump..

[Tom Skinner]

Jaker110,

It starts where the No. 1 Cylinder wire goes into the Distributor.

The Rotor should be pointing at that spot also indicating that the No. 1 Cylinder Piston is at Top Dead Center. (See earlier post on how to achieve tdc).

I hope this helps! Usually 153624 on a 6 cylinder and 16258374 on an eight.

See if you can get an older gentleman to assist you here.

Tom

[Jaker110]

I have done everything that's been suggested here. I have spark fuel compression. I have an older gent helping me now, he's s a chev guy but knows his stuff. We are both stumped, changed points condenser, freed valve have spark at the right time. How easy are these motors to flood? Or does any one have any crazy ideas? Thanks

[JBNeal]

pull the air cleaner, shoot some ether starting fluid down the throat (1-2 second burst), immediately crank the starter, then ether again every 5 seconds during a 30 second start cycle

[Young Ed]

Check your plugs. Sometimes after all the tries they can get pretty nasty. Replace or clean them.

[Todd B]

If the brakes work, try and pull it. Usally will start.

[Dave72dt]

Where are you located? There may be an experienced forum member close by that can help.

[Don G 1947]

Helped someone recently who had the same problem. Distributor was in correctly, firing order on the cap was correct, BUT the wires were one off all the way around. Bring engine to TDC and pull the cap. Mark the outside of the distributor where the LEADING edge of the rotor is. Put the cap back on. That mark should be right under the #1 wire. If not, shift wires appropriately.

Don

[Jaker110]

Thanks to everyone, I got the truck running last night. First time hearing it run. Runs great, I Had it hooked up gravity feed for the fuel, I tried hooking the pump up but can't get it to work. Thanks again, the chev guy that's helping me wishes his trucks ran this good.

[Young Ed]

Thanks again, the chev guy that's helping me wishes his trucks ran this good.

Thats what he gets for buying a chevy

[ggdad1951]

Thanks to everyone, I got the truck running last night. First time hearing it run. Runs great, I Had it hooked up gravity feed for the fuel, I tried hooking the pump up but can't get it to work. Thanks again, the chev guy that's helping me wishes his trucks ran this good.

and what was the final issue resolution?

[Fernando Mendes]

The ammeter on instrument panel will be a valuable aid in localizing defect in circuit which results in "no spark".

A.No discharge-zero reading indicates that primary circuit is interrupted.

B.Normal reading-needle oscillates between two and five amperes discharge while starter is cranking engine-indicates that primary circuit is complete-therefore checking should be confined to SECONDARY circuits.

C.Abnormal discharge-more than two to four amperes-this condition is an indication that a "short" exists between the ammeter and the ignition coil or in event of a shorted primary winding in ignition coil,"short" may exist in distributor.