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Posted

The seal is just a fairly loose pressed fit. I just take a bar like an extension for a half inch socket wrench and gently tap around the edge of the bearing from the outside. A few gentle taps and it usually falls on the bench.

Posted

I wanted to replace the seals and went to Pep Boys thinking they would have them,they looked at me like I was crazy. Napa should have them on the shelf right? Part Number that is on them is 1138758.

Posted (edited)

Not so sure about on the shelf but the part number is. NOS 17131 18 Washington's since we seem to be using presidents now.

If you order tonight they should be there tomorrow in any case. Just reserve online if thats the way you want to go.

Edited by Alshere59
Posted

I think I opened a can of worms, since I have the drums off I decided to scrape all of the dirt and grime off of the backing plate and suspension parts. I have been wanting to do this for a while, looks a lot better now :D. Still have a little more to clean up while I am waiting for my seals.

Posted

While you're down there, go ahead and change the oil and check that transmission linkage, too. Might want to check the clutch adjustment while you're at it. Of course, you're gonna hafta clean the floor up when you're done. Oh, and,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Posted
I got them out by using a extension and hammer, the other way is a good idea also.

dcef7362.jpg

Great job on your project but.........................I see in your picture that you are using a claw hammer. A good friend of mine who is an old time mechanic told me that a claw hammer does not belong in the garage. Ballpeen hammers are the hammers of choice. Rubber hammer OK. Dead blow hammer OK. Claw hammer is for carpentry. Guess if you have no where else to keep it, at least don't use it for things mechanical. I have taken his advice ever since I received it.

Posted
Great job on your project but.........................I see in your picture that you are using a claw hammer. A good friend of mine who is an old time mechanic told me that a claw hammer does not belong in the garage. Ballpeen hammers are the hammers of choice. Rubber hammer OK. Dead blow hammer OK. Claw hammer is for carpentry. Guess if you have no where else to keep it, at least don't use it for things mechanical. I have taken his advice ever since I received it.

Hell i use a 32oz framing hammer all the time!! what ever gets the job done.:eek::D

Posted
Great job on your project but.........................I see in your picture that you are using a claw hammer. A good friend of mine who is an old time mechanic told me that a claw hammer does not belong in the garage. Ballpeen hammers are the hammers of choice. Rubber hammer OK. Dead blow hammer OK. Claw hammer is for carpentry. Guess if you have no where else to keep it, at least don't use it for things mechanical. I have taken his advice ever since I received it.

Framing hammers are great for ripping out drum grease seals! I use one all the time-even though I have the seal removal tools. Claw hammers-not so good to use in automotive.

Posted

Most bearings and seals can be bought at an industrial bearing store for half of what a parts store gets, something along the lines like Motion industries, King Bearing,

Posted

I just dropped off my drums at a auto shop near where I work to get turned and they only wanted $7.50 per drum. Nice to see there are still some shops not taking advantage.

Posted
Now that I have my drums turned I will only have to adjust the minor adjustment,right?

Wrong.

A major adjustment is called for if the drum has been turned. Actually, it would also be a good idea to have the shoes ground to fit the new diameter of the drums but I don't think any brake outfit does that any more.

Posted
What is the major adjustment ?????that is called for?.

If he had his drums turned, he only has to adjust his adjusters, until the slop is taken up. the shoes will seat themselves.....

I am real curious on the Major adhustment?

Go to the main web page supporting this forum and read everything there. You will find your answer in the technical tips section.

Posted

Since the drums have been turned and have had metal removed thenthe linings are the correct distance from teh entire drum surface. Since you have Lockeed brakes that have the eccentrics then the heel of the brake shoe needs to be adjusted to fit the new arc of the drum.

refer to the technical section on brakes and the use of the Ammco brake guage. This tool is used to get the proper arc of the shoes to ensure that you have a hard brake pedal and not a soft pedal.

If you have any questions after looking at the tech section please feel free to contact me.

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

Posted

Ok.... I kinda thought of it as more routine brake adjustment after the drums where turned. It still isnt very major, its like calling a tune up a major engine overhaul. Thats why I questioned it, what was I missing?

Posted
Ok.... I kinda thought of it as more routine brake adjustment after the drums where turned. It still isnt very major, its like calling a tune up a major engine overhaul. Thats why I questioned it, what was I missing?

If you think it is not major try it without the tool. It is my opinion that the Ammco tool or Miller equivlent are required to do this adjustment correctly. Without the tool your shoes will wear as pictured.

shoe1.jpg

Posted

You just gotta compare apples to apples. Yes its not as major as an engine rebuild. It is however more complicated and therefor major compared to the simpler brake adjustment.

Posted

I got my drums back and installed them on the car. It seemed like my drums were warped after they were cut, I thought this was strange. I continued to perform the adjustment found on this PDF http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/p15pdf/brake.pdf . After I adjusted them the pedal was nice and ferm and the drum contacted uniformly around the pads :D. Once I get my seals I will go for a test drive. Next week I will do the rears.

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