Removal of Front Sheetmetal Advice Needed

[Barry Maxwell]

I am at the stage of the restoration of my '51 B3C where I need to remove the front sheetmetal (inner/outer fenders, nose, grill, etc.). I have seen several of the threads in the archives dealing with removal of the front clip. However,since I want to keep the radiator in place so I can move the truck in and out of my shop when needed, I have decided to begin removing the parts one piece at a time. My question is where should I start? Inner fenders or outer fenders first?, nose/grill first?, or what? Any and all advice on this will be greatly appreciated. As perhaps you can tell, I am a novice on this. Thanks.

[ggdad1951]

we took the inners out first then the outers then the front...at least that's what I remember doing...

[52b3b Joe]

i took the whole front clip off together then the inner once the front clip was off. Here is a good video telling how to remove it.

[41/53dodges]

the essential tool list:

impact gun

various extensions & swivels

vice grips

angle grinder (or some sort of tool for cutting bolts.

thats what mine needed.

[Young Ed]

the essential tool list:

impact gun

various extensions & swivels

vice grips

angle grinder (or some sort of tool for cutting bolts.

thats what mine needed.

Heat too. Most bolts will come out with some heat. Liquid wrench or your favorite penetrating oil too.

[Guest Kuster13]

Just a suggestion. Check your sheet metal for fit and alignment before you take it off. If you get everything lined up now, drill some 1/8 inch alignment holes for later when you go to put it all back together. The fit on these trucks is never great but sometimes getting everything back to the way it was can be a pain.

I would start with the hood, nose/grill then fenders.

If I had done what I suggest I would not have had the trouble I had putting my truck back together and I am also just a novice.

Tom

[Don Coatney]

, drill some 1/8 inch alignment holes for later when you go to put it all back together.

Tom

Sounds good. Did you fill the holes with a screw or weld them upon re-assembly?

[Dave72dt]

Before you drill those holes, check your fit with NEW cab mount bushings and radiator support cushion, fender mount cushions. Changing them after you do panel alignment will mean you get to do panel alignment again.

Remove whichever panel gives you the most and best access to the next set of bolts. Personally, I'd start with the hood and then the front wheels, outer fender, inner fender, grille.

[pflaming]

Unless one is a perfectionist or very good at reassembly I would remove the hood, then the radiator, then the entire front "doghouse". That is what I did. Getting that back on and realigned was a challenge for me, to do it in piece work would have been far beyond my abilities. Whatever you do, I wish you well. Wecome aboard this is a fun hobby and P-H.com is a great, great resource.

[Don Coatney]

A bowl of wheaties and you could do it like this guy did.

[Merle Coggins]

Remove whichever panel gives you the most and best access to the next set of bolts. Personally, I'd start with the hood and then the front wheels, outer fender, inner fender, grille.

I agree with Dave here. Although removing the front wheels isn't a must, it will provide better access to the bolts inside the fender when you try to remove them.

After removing the hood (and placing it somewhere safe) I'd unbolt the inner fenders and then attack the outer fenders. The outer fenders attach to the cab and frame at the rear and attach to the grill piece with a line of bolts up front. Once these are removed the fender should slide out and the inner fender will probably fall out too. Now disconnect the wires for your headlights and remove the 4 bolts on either side of the radiator support and the grill assembly will come off. You are now left with a truck that looks something like this.

[HanksB3B]

Kuster 13 (post#6)

Just a suggestion. Check your sheet metal for fit and alignment before you take it off. If you get everything lined up now, drill some 1/8 inch alignment holes ((I’m imagining these are in the fender tabs (where they bolt together?)) for later when you go to put it all back together. The fit on these trucks is never great but sometimes getting everything back to the way it was can be a pain.

and Dave 72 (post#8)

Before you drill those holes, check your fit with NEW cab mount bushings and radiator support cushion, fender mount cushions. Changing them after you do panel alignment will mean you get to do panel alignment again. (Totally True)

These are some darn good pointers. Where were you guys when I needed this advice..Oh I was under my truck and not on the internet.

Have fun! (I did)

Edited November 9, 2010 by HanksB3B

[Guest Kuster13]

Sounds good. Did you fill the holes with a screw or weld them upon re-assembly?

Like I said "If I had done what I suggest I would not have had the trouble I had putting my truck back together,".

I assembled my truck a number of times during the progress of the body work. Made notes, took measurements and pictures but even with all the planning, my lack of experience made the re-assembly a real challenge. I'm still not sure that the front sheet metal on my truck is right and fitting as it should be. If I had drilled alignment holes I might have just filled them with seam sealer so they could be used again if needed.

I agree on replacing the cab mounts before taking anything apart.

Tom

[Barry Maxwell]

Thank you for all your responses. I am more knowledgeable now, but still confused. I did begin the process by removing the driver side inner fender (with some difficulty, but it is out). Some time ago I removed the hood before sandblasting and priming it. I am still considering removing the clip and then reinstalling the radiator so I can move the truck. I used the search function for Front Clip and found the information very helpful.

I am now at the point of trying to remove the left fender (in between farm work). I know I have to remove a phillips head bolt at the bottom of the fender. I am confident that I can grind the nut off and pop the bolt out. That is the easy part.

I have attached three photos of the inside of the fender. The first shows a bracket with two bolts that attach to a bracket going to the fender. There are no carriage bolt heads showing on the outside of the fender, so I suspect there is a lot of bondo in there. My assumption is that I need to remove both bolts. At this point they won't budge with my socket wrench. I can get to them with my impact wrench, but there is a good chance (certainty) that I will shear them. Is there any other way?

The second photo shows a bracket lower down with two nuts on bolts that are hidden behind the door jam. I am not sure, but I think that the fender wraps around behind the bracket. If correct, I must remove the nuts without having access to the bolt head inside the jam. I have no clue how to do that. I am hoping that I don't have to deal with those nuts. I am hoping that someone will confirm that (wishful thinking?).

The third photo show a structural bracket at the front of the fender. There is a row of about seven bolts that look like they should come off to the remove the fender. Then again, if I leave those bolts in I can remove four bolts on the horizontal and angle bracket, and the whole thing will come off with the fender. Which is correct?

I appreciate all the help on this. Although I have restored several antique Massey Harris tractors and an old Jeep, I am afraid that I have bitten off more than I can chew on this project. Then again, I always feel better about the project in the morning as opposed to the end of a long day on my back under the truck.

[pflaming]

On that one brace you only have to remove the one bottom vertical bolt, if my recollection is correct. The mount stays. It's not that difficult, like Dad used to say, "the problems of the night are never as difficult with the rising of the sun". You'll get it off.

[JBNeal]

photo #1: grind the heads off of those bolts for the quick & easy approach. They can be replaced later rather easily with much better zinc plated bolts, and since they are not easily seen, you can use plain ol' grade 5s.

photo #2: remove the vertical bolt, and once the fender is off of the truck, you can tackle the horizontal bolts with much easier access.

photo #3: the shop manual says that the front fenders & grill shell can be removed as an assembly. Remove the braces from the rad.support & fenders and leave the grill shell bolted to the fenders.

[Dave72dt]

Photo #3 The seven bolts around the outside hold the fender to the grille and must be removed to seperate fender from the grille. The other four don't need to be removed but can be loosened.

Photos 1 and 2, previous suggestions correct.

[HanksB3B]

In the begining god created rust. Through my wanderings for parts I'd come across something that looked like your front clip. Back in the day when Liquid Wrench was king, I'd soak the bolts every other day for about a week before I'd try to remove them. Sometimes the first move is a little tighter, then you can back off a quarter turn, then tighten, then loosen, add some repeated tap..tap..tap with a ball peen hammer (or impact wrench when things are moving) to break-up the rust crystals. Eventually everything will come off in one piece if you are careful. Test show the hafl automatic transmission fluid / half acetone mix is the superior penetrating agent. Just don't light up while you are under the truck.

Hank

[ggdad1951]

I've used the BP Blaster with some success while in conjuction w/ heat. But for the ABSOLUTLY hard to loosen I've used AeroKroil...that stuff is spendy, but work like a dream!

[41/53dodges]

In the begining god created rust. Through my wanderings for parts I'd come across something that looked like your front clip. Back in the day when Liquid Wrench was king, I'd soak the bolts every other day for about a week before I'd try to remove them. Sometimes the first move is a little tighter, then you can back off a quarter turn, then tighten, then loosen, add some repeated tap..tap..tap with a ball peen hammer (or impact wrench when things are moving) to break-up the rust crystals. Eventually everything will come off in one piece if you are careful. Test show the hafl automatic transmission fluid / half acetone mix is the superior penetrating agent. Just don't light up while you are under the truck.

Hank

i have tried this acetone ATF mix, it didnt do crap unless you can literally put it in the mix and leave it. on the truck, it was useless

[HanksB3B]

i have tried this acetone ATF mix, it didnt do crap unless you can literally put it in the mix and leave it. on the truck, it was useless

Maybe someone here on the board has stock in either the US's largest producer of Acetone and /or Transmission Fluid, because someone posted some torque-off results with different types of penetrating oil and the ATF mix showed outstanding results. Maybe I'll ask my wife for some AeroKroil for Christmas?

Hank

[pflaming]

Barry, maybe these will help. The upper bracker (cord hanging on it) stays. The bolts in the fender are 'fixed' so when you replace the fender you drop them into the bracket. The bracket holes are elongated for 'better' allaignment. Lower down is a smaller bracket. It obviously stays also. There is also a sheet metal piece, (mud guard) that will have a bolt, I took it off first, but it can come with the fender. Hope this helps. I took mine off, by myself, with a cherry picker, its bulker than it is heavy.

p.s. note the bracket on the crossmember. Two holes, remove those nuts and the entire front is loose. I was surprised that the entire front is held on by so few bolts, which is why, if and when I upgrade / pull my engine, this will come off first.

Edited October 1, 2017 by pflaming

[ggdad1951]

I've blown thru Roberts, VPW and Bernbaum's trying to find the radiator support cushion replacement parts....anyone know the vendor and PN?

[JBNeal]

I had the original (rotten) piece and sub'd a chunk of old mudflap I found in the road, I reckon it was purt'near 3/8" thick.

Edited November 13, 2010 by JBNeal
revised dimension

[41/53dodges]

Maybe someone here on the board has stock in either the US's largest producer of Acetone and /or Transmission Fluid, because someone posted some torque-off results with different types of penetrating oil and the ATF mix showed outstanding results. Maybe I'll ask my wife for some AeroKroil for Christmas?

Hank

maybe torque the head right off!