Young Ed Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 For my 40 plymouth project I have 3 cabs available. Now these cabs one is an actual 40 plymouth cab. This has the correct dash and no holes for the cowl lights. However its somewhat rusty in the floor and the dash is messed up. Then I have a 41 cab which has the correct dash for a 40 but cowl light holes. Those would be fairly easily patched. However this one has some lace in the floor and the entire cab was sandblasted about 5 years ago and left to get rusty. So the entire cab is covered in surface rust. Then I have a 46-47 cab thats solid with the wrong dash and no windshield header. I'm not sure how the pilothouse cabs are but in these the dash is welded in so swapping it from cab to cab would be fairly difficult. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 Pilot-House cabs have welded in a dash too. I would think you best option may be to use the '41 cab, plug to cowl light holes and replace the bad floor with the floor from the '46-47 cab. What's bad on the dash of the '40 cab? Merle Quote
Young Ed Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Posted October 19, 2010 Someone(us) cut the middle to get out a troublesome windshield regulator. Quote
townwagon Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 Ed, Find another cab. There is a decent 1940 Dodge cab out there somewhere, find it, and work with that. A few hundred dollars now in shipping, or purchase price is totally worth it compared to weekends of welding, etc. There is a VF-32 in a central WI junkyard that seemed to have a solid cab, and I am sure there are some 1940 or 41 cabs up in western MN somewhere. I used to know of a VF-32 just up by the ND border, but it got crushed a few years ago. If it has not been crushed yet there was 1940 Plymouth cab near the SD border. I have pictures, but I forgot the exact condition of the cab. The rest of the truck is scattered to the winds. This is all assuming that the rusted cab is too rusted. I mean another trip to the sandblasters is a lot easier than welding two or three cabs together. Eric Quote
Young Ed Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Posted October 19, 2010 Thats the tricky part. The steel on these is pretty thick so another trip to the sandblasters just might be the answer. The rest of that cab is decently solid with just a few lacey spots in the floor. Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 As a pre POC pres you should know that sending any usable iron to the krusher is not an option. Pick out the best cab (as a good cab driver should know) and use it. You already know that and you have never let anyone tell you what to do in the past so why start now????? Quote
austinsailor Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 Ed, Make a visit down to my house and use my sandblaster. 3 or 4 hours will have it clean. The price will be right! Gene G. Central Mo. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 I vote for the sandblasting..with the pressure pot home use item you have full control over th epressure on the line, pressure charging the post and the flow of sand...be quickest method with probably the better results...after that I would recommend you pickle the metal with the phosphoric acid...but that is your call... Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 Sounds like an excellant time to start on that crew cab project. In all reality, do the one that requires doing the work you're most comfortable doing. They all need work and all can be salvaged. If you choose to reblast the one or either of the other two, hit it with 80 grit to knock down the blasting peaks and get some epoxy primer on it right away before starting any repairs. Quote
Frank Elder Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 Extended or quad cab Ed......Be the first one on your block! Quote
Young Ed Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Posted October 20, 2010 I vote for the sandblasting..with the pressure pot home use item you have full control over th epressure on the line, pressure charging the post and the flow of sand...be quickest method with probably the better results...after that I would recommend you pickle the metal with the phosphoric acid...but that is your call... Tim I know its hard to say for sure without seeing it live but does it sound like it can be saved after sitting out in the elements bare? Quote
austinsailor Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 Tim I know its hard to say for sure without seeing it live but does it sound like it can be saved after sitting out in the elements bare? Ed, if it doesn't look like screen wire, it can be saved. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 Extended or quad cab Ed......Be the first one on your block! Sounds like an excellant time to start on that crew cab project. In all reality, do the one that requires doing the work you're most comfortable doing. They all need work and all can be salvaged. If you choose to reblast the one or either of the other two, hit it with 80 grit to knock down the blasting peaks and get some epoxy primer on it right away before starting any repairs. Love the idea of a crew/extended cab idea...that'd be different. Depends what you are looking for in your final truck. I vote for the sandblasting..with the pressure pot home use item you have full control over th epressure on the line, pressure charging the post and the flow of sand...be quickest method with probably the better results...after that I would recommend you pickle the metal with the phosphoric acid...but that is your call... maybe do a soda blast instead? Quote
Young Ed Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Posted October 20, 2010 Love the idea of a crew/extended cab idea...that'd be different. Depends what you are looking for in your final truck. Well I do have 3 cabs. Maybe the next one can be a club cab with the two remaining cabs. This one I think I'm going for the look of an old used up truck. Say as if someone was still using this 40 plymouth in the 50s. Parts will be various colors as I found them. Quote
Young Ed Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Posted October 20, 2010 Can only find a picture of the 46-47 cab. Will have to take pictures of the rusty one next time we go up to the cabin. Quote
Young Ed Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Posted October 20, 2010 Woohoo nevermind. I thought I had taken pictures of it. They were in my parts car folder for some reason. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 what an odd place for a gas tank! Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 (edited) from the normal use of soda blast in the industry which I used to work, the soda was used primarily for soft metals such as aluminum and also fiberglass components etc, sonar array covers, radar dones etc etc....I am not sure just how effective it would be on a heavily crusted piece of steel..most steel items were hit with sand media and depending upon the metal thickness and rust condition would dictate the grit...soda is primary use to remove paint from a good substrate.. I do however not recommend you just drop any metal off to just any commercial blaster..I have said this before...time is money, money is speed, speed is high pressure and coarse grit..this is disaster for sheet metal... Edited October 20, 2010 by Tim Adams Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 Tim I know its hard to say for sure without seeing it live but does it sound like it can be saved after sitting out in the elements bare? I saw two candidates for rebuild in your photos. Neither one looks beyond repair. Not that bad for Minn steel. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 the sandblast with low flow/low pressure and .030 grit followed by a phosphoric acid wash will be the first step in answering that question. For the overall car..I have seen some extremely thin metal after dipping that went back on the road... either way..this will give you a excellent look see at the base...any repair will be easier with clean rust free blasted surfaces to weld to..the areas that are rusted through will require new metal patch welded in full perimeter, blasting shows just haw far from the obvious you need to cut back to insert the patch...do get you some of the welding clamps from Harbor Freight..(cost effective here and the exact product from the higher priced folks) and proceed.. Quote
Young Ed Posted October 21, 2010 Author Report Posted October 21, 2010 You can already see one patch on each side for the floor and one at the back where the gas tank comes through and then one at the back of the cab on the outside. All common places for rust on these. This is actually pretty minor compared to some. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 21, 2010 Report Posted October 21, 2010 Well I do have 3 cabs. Maybe the next one can be a club cab with the two remaining cabs. This one I think I'm going for the look of an old used up truck. Say as if someone was still using this 40 plymouth in the 50s. Parts will be various colors as I found them. With multi-colored panels are you gonna call this one "Patches"? Quote
48Dodger Posted October 21, 2010 Report Posted October 21, 2010 I would take the one with the best floor. Sand blast the hard reach spots, hand sand the big panels and use phosphoric acid like T. Adams said. 48D Quote
Young Ed Posted October 21, 2010 Author Report Posted October 21, 2010 With multi-colored panels are you gonna call this one "Patches"? I was thinking Johnny because I bought it one piece at a time. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 22, 2010 Report Posted October 22, 2010 I was thinking Johnny because I bought it one piece at a time. I suppose that'll work too. Quote
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