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Posted

I think the main claim to fame is the fact that once installed they are maintanence free, until something fails. No points to replace and adjust, no dwell angle to worry about.

Most people think HEI mean High Energy Ignition, when in reality it means Hall effect induction. (you ca google that) and mearly changes the way the collapse of the coil circuit is triggered.

I suppose that there might be a gain in control of the length of spark and the precision of its delivery.

The other consideration is most are designed for 12V negative electrical systems, so unless you have coverted your choice is limited to the Pertronix conversion that is listed for mopar industrial engine applications.

If you have converted you might also consider the setup used on the 70's and later /6.

This is basically a junk yard sourced deat with a change out of the /6 distributors drive tang and a bit of modification of the bottom to fit the flat head vblock and clamp.

http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Ignition/CDI.html

Posted

Thank you Greg. I read the link and learned alot, but I have a question on the newer power packs per plug that eliminate the need for a dizzy....how is the oil pump driven without putting tab A into slot B, so to say?:confused:

Posted
Thank you Greg. I read the link and learned alot, but I have a question on the newer power packs per plug that eliminate the need for a dizzy....how is the oil pump driven without putting tab A into slot B, so to say?:confused:

A lot of them are located just behind the front cover and are run directly off of the crankshaft; one gear is on the crankshaft, the larger gear is in the front of the block around the first gear.

Marty

Posted

The oil pump drive remains the same, it was the oil pump that drove the distributor not visa versa.

The modern systems are controled by a crankshaft position sensor feeding the info to the ECU. that combined with data from the trottle position sensor and the 02 sensor determins when spark is delivered.

I believe some where in that path is the root of Toyota's recent problems since the new ones are fly by wire with no physical connection between gas pedal and throttle plate.

Just a little bit of corrupted data can really screw thing up nowadays.

Posted

you left out the cam position sensor..these two must first sync prior to any ignition..you must have ignition before it will power the fuel pump (other than the short burst to pressurize at key on)...the other sensors, like coolant temp, throttle position, the 02 and MAP detect the engine speed temp and adjust the mixture and timing to correspond..turbo and high output engines usually have a anti-knock sensor to retard timing also..it is such a sweet setup...beats a carb and distributor anyday of the week..

Posted

Well, for what its worth, I obtained one of the Langdons HEI Distributors for my 41 Plymouth and its the best thing I've done for it, starts virtually instantly, no winding over and over, seems to run better, I would thoroughly recommend this item........tho' I know some guys in the US don't think much of Tom Langdon he was helpful and courteous to me, I'm in Australia......and yep its only suitable to a 12volt negative earth system..........andyd

Posted
Well, for what its worth, I obtained one of the Langdons HEI Distributors for my 41 Plymouth and its the best thing I've done for it, starts virtually instantly, no winding over and over, seems to run better, I would thoroughly recommend this item........tho' I know some guys in the US don't think much of Tom Langdon he was helpful and courteous to me, I'm in Australia......and yep its only suitable to a 12volt negative earth system..........andyd

I'll second Andy's post. I have a Langdon HEI on my '50, and it starts before I can let go of the key.

without any miss or such.

Pete

Posted

i ordered one from stovebolt yesterday. he said it would be here in a week or so. i will let you know if it works good. this will give me time to change my system over to 12v while i am waiting for it to show up.

Posted
i ordered one from stovebolt yesterday. he said it would be here in a week or so. i will let you know if it works good. this will give me time to change my system over to 12v while i am waiting for it to show up.

Hopefully by now he has come up with a decent holddown clamp; the one he sent with mine was such a piece of c**p that I threw it away and made my own.

Marty

Posted

I also have the HEI in my '47 Club Coupe and have been very happy with it, but once in a while the engine will cut out while in motion after taking off from a stop. It was doing it a lot last year so I took it to the mechanic to have him check out the electrical system and he nothing was showing up negative. So he thought it may have been in the chip and he took it out, looked it over and said it seemed fine. After he put it back in, it never cut out again until just last week. So, I don't know if the chip is wearing out or not. What is the life of these electronic ignition chips?

Posted (edited)

Check out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H.E.I.

While it has no points, the GM HEI stands for High Energy Ignition. Unlike other Petronix hall effect or similar MOPAR slant 6 modified ignitions, the GM unit puts out much more current to the plugs. I have been running a mini HEI from Langdon for years on my 265 IND engine and have had no trouble with the install or operation. I have my plugs gapped at .060.

Edited by 1937 Dodge
typo
Posted
Hopefully by now he has come up with a decent holddown clamp; the one he sent with mine was such a piece of c**p that I threw it away and made my own.

Marty

i will let yall know. was everything else ok with it?

Posted
Check out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H.E.I.

While it has no points, the GM HEI stands for High Energy Ignition. Unlike other Petronix hall effect or similar MOPAR slant 6 modified ignitions, the GM unit puts out much more current to the plugs. I have been running a mini HEI from Langdon for years on my 265 IND engine and have had no trouble with the install or operation. I have my plugs gapped at .060.

Elmer;

I must agree to disagree. The GM distributor (specifically the one Langdon sells) works on Hall effect induction. This Hall effect induction produces high energy but the term HEI makes reference to Hall effect induction.

ReluctorDist.gif

Posted
i will let yall know. was everything else ok with it?

Everything else was fine; it just took me a couple of tries before I got the plug wires clocked correctly so I could get the timing right with the Vacuum advance hooked up.

I also found that there is a tach connection on the distributor that works well.

Marty

Posted

I also have the HEI in my '47 Club Coupe and have been very happy with it, but once in a while the engine will cut out while in motion after taking off from a stop. It was doing it a lot last year so I took it to the mechanic to have him check out the electrical system and he nothing was showing up negative. So he thought it may have been in the chip and he took it out, looked it over and said it seemed fine. After he put it back in, it never cut out again until just last week. So, I don't know if the chip is wearing out or not. What is the life of these electronic ignition chips?

Posted

My experience is that if the electronics make it through the first couple of months they will last forever or 150,000 miles whichever comes first.

But if they start to have intermittent failures early in life, they will just keep getting more frequent and leave you stranded in some very strange places

Posted
My experience is that if the electronics make it through the first couple of months they will last forever or 150,000 miles whichever comes first.

But if they start to have intermittent failures early in life, they will just keep getting more frequent and leave you stranded in some very strange places

Thanks, Barabbas! Appreciate it. ;)

Posted

I find thats true for all kinds of electronics, including TV's, watches, radios, computers, phones, most everything that has no moving parts. Either they work good forever, or they show problems from day one.

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