Valve Adjustment

[Merle Coggins]

Yesterday I had a chance to get back out to the garage and get the valves adjusted on my truck. I had read several times here about doing the adjustments with the engine running. I always wondered how that would work, but I figgured I'd give it a shot. Since I had to run it to warm it up anyway, while it was running I took the covers off and got my tappet wrenches and feeler guages ready.

When it was as hot as it was going to get just idling in my garage (with the exhaust vented) I reached in with a .010" feeler guage to check the intake valves. #1 was quite loose and when I slipped the feeler guage into the gap the "tick, tick, tick", that my engine has always had went away. I adjusted it up and now it's nice and quiet. I then went down the line and checked the rest of the intake valves. The rest were pretty good.

I switch to a .014" feeler guage and checked the exhaust valves. #1, #5, & #6 were a bit tight, so I adjusted them too. Now they're all good. Once I had them all adjusted I thought it would be a good time to see if I could make a quick video of the process, so I rigged up my camera to capture the action and closed the gap on #2 exhaust valve so I could show making an adjustment.

It didn't turn out too bad. I have asked Tim to add it to his Youtube account, but for now here is the video in my Photobucket.

[HanksB3B]

You make it look really easy. I'm trying to build up enough confidence to try. What size tappet wrenches do I need?

Thanks,

Hank

[Merle Coggins]

1/2" to hold the tappet body and 7/16" to adjust the tappet.

I see that Sears has a Craftsman set like what I have for $25.99. They're worth that price if you're going to adjust these valves.

Edited February 22, 2010 by Merle Coggins

[TodFitch]

Excellent video!

[HanksB3B]

sometimes I go to swap meets and find tools for a buck or two. I'm not sure I'd have need for a full set of tappet wrenches, but I'll check out the Sears set. Could you please read the "Stalling" thread and respond. There's some Spark Plug info and a question or two I'd like to know your opinion on.

Thanks,

Hank

[JJs 1948]

Very nice video Merle. Awhile back I posted a thread on adjusting valves while the engine was running. In my case I was the onlooker while my mechanic friend did the adjustment. Turns out the job is easier than one might expect and is "THE" way to adjust valves on these old flatheads. One of the most important steps to do and which my friend stressed the most was to slow the engine idle speed as slow as possible. I swear with the engine running so slow you could adjust and actually hear the difference in the smoothness of the idle as each valve was adjusted to correct gap. Amazing difference in the overall performance of my engine. I had such an improvement that my truck seemed to get one more gear of top end. I can travel at 55-60 without a problem with a 3.73 rear end. Remember to let the engine warm up completely too. No knuckle burns and we bent the end of our feeler gauge at an angle to avoid the manifold.

[grey beard]

Thanks Merle,

This is good information for all of us. Wonderin' how she'll perform on the riad now. Guess I'll have to try and pull that dratted inner fender on my own '49.

Thanks,

[48Dodger]

Ok Merle, grabbed the video and its on the youtube site. Thanks!

48D

http://www.youtube.com/user/194853DodgeTrucks

[Don Coatney]

Merle;

Great how to video! Thanks for sharing...

[HanksB3B]

like a 20th scale Pilothouse for special things like this. What would we call it?

Hank

[Merle Coggins]

like a 20th scale Pilothouse for special things like this. What would we call it?

Hank

How 'bout a Boobie Prize

(borrowed from Crankshaft Coatney's bucket)

[HanksB3B]

I didn't expect that from you. Ha ha ha!

Hank

[Don Coatney]

I am titilated:D

[Frank Elder]

How 'bout a Boobie Prize

(borrowed from Crankshaft Coatney's bucket)

Here's the runnerup:eek:

[HanksB3B]

What got started here...I was thinking more on the lines of the attached, with maybe a P15-D24 logo on it.

Can't stop laughing today..You guys are Bad!

Hank

[John-T-53]

Nice video! I have to do this on my engine again and now I'll consider doing it this way instead of the static method. I just bought a new set of bent feeler guages at Sears today. I looked for the Craftsman tappet wrenches but they're a catalog item only. I'll have to use my regular wrenches like last time.

[HanksB3B]

I looked around the swap meet and couldn't find but one wrong size tappet wrench. So I ordered the Sears Set. Order Total: $35.47 (including shipping and tax) I would have liked to pick it up at the store but that was not an option.

I guess when I think about it my truck's to the point that the only monkey working on it should be me. With all the support we have at P15-D24 (and the video) the tool set will pay for itself the first time I adjust the valves.

This morning I drove down to the beach. The waves were huge. Ever since I installed the new non-supression wires the truck has been starting cold on the first shot and thereafter. I realized I could adjust the throttle way down (even less than I wanted it to idle at) I couldn't hear the engine above the crashing waves. Bet it'll be even quieter once the valves are adjusted. Kind of curious what I'll find.

Anyone know a good source for valve cover gaskets. I had hoped to use an old cork pair I've had forever, but discovered they are dried and broken. Is anyone of the opinion that cork is/was the Best material? (are they still available) Should I use any gasket cement for this application?

Thanks,

Hank

[grey beard]

When you find good quality new valve cover gaskets, glue 'em onto your very clean valve covers with weatherstrip cement and let 'em dry with a heavy weight on top of 'em before you install them. Next time, they'll come right off with no sweat or scraping, and they won't need any schmutz on the engine side. Just install 'em dry against the clean block. Works for me . . .

[Merle Coggins]

Yup, that's what I did too.

Merle

[HanksB3B]

what I did last time around. They aren't leaking but I'm not sure I didn't butter both sides of the bread.

We'll find out,

Hank

[DanOlson]

Merle,

Thanks to your video, it gave me the courage to adjust my valves with the motor running. I enlisted the help of my adult son and all he kept saying was 'this is crazy'. Truly a bonding experience that won't soon be forgotten by either one of us.

Dan

BTW: found 2 intakes and 3 exhaust that where tight.

[HanksB3B]

I'm still waiting for the tappet wrenches to arrive (should be today). I did not see anything other than the inner fender removal and the tappet adjustment video. I do not have a lift and want to know if it will be safe and necessary to have the front axle on a jack stand with the right wheel removed in order to have enough working room to adjust the valves. My first concern is safety.

Thanks,

Hank

[Young Ed]

Put the front axle on the stands but leave the jack/jacks in place. That way you have extra support. Make sure!!!! the truck isn't in gear when you start it!!!

[HanksB3B]

Ed,

My default is to always start the truck in neutral where ever I am. Especially since my new wires that baby fires up at idle on the first crank. Better than a jack stand would be some glue-lam-beam scraps, but with the way the enconomy is these days, I don't think I've heard a hammer for about six months around here.

Thanks,

Hank

[Young Ed]

Hank I didn't figure a reminder would hurt. One time when I first got my truck I was in the garage and went to start it thinking it was in neutral. It wasn't! As soon as I hit the starter pedal it started and lurched forward at the same time. Started so quickly that there was no time to realize it wasn't in neutral and let off the starter with only a lurch. By the time I reacted I was a whole truck length forward and in the driveway! Thankfully the door was open or I would have owed my parents a new garage door and had to do some body work on the pickup