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DanOlson

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Everything posted by DanOlson

  1. I'll be there on Friday but truckless. Ed, I'll give you a call when I get on the grounds.
  2. Ordered up a carb kit and replaced the accelerator pump. Soaked it in oil overnight and finished putting it together at 5:45 this morning in my bathrobe so I could drive it to work. The new pump fits much better. I compressed the spring back to where it was and life is good. I don't recall if the old pump always fit so tight or if it swelled over time (1 year).
  3. Stretched out the spring to about 2x it's normal length and now has the umph to push a really snug accelerator pump down. I had to add an additional return spring on the throttle to get it back to an idle. I'm sure it will wear itself in and loosen up a bit. Thanks Ed for taking a carb of yours apart to compare notes over the phone. Of all the forums I belong to, this one is by far the most helpful and fun.
  4. After watching a video about adjusting the accelerator pump on the Carter BB, http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter_BB_Carburetor_Accelerator_Pump_p/64-360.htm I see a big difference with the spring. Mine appears to be really compressed compared to the one in the video. Wonder if someone changed the spring or squeezed it together. I'll stretch it after work and give it a whirl.
  5. Hmmm..... Thought I tried that but I'm going to have to go back home and check. Planning on doing the Pine Island cruise in tonight if I can get it fixed.
  6. Turn 17 90 degrees to lock into place with 18?
  7. Looking at the attached list, what I don't understand is how #17 (Plunger and Rod assy) gets pushed down. When operating the throttle #18 (link - Pump operating slides up and down #17. Whoa, I just though of something. Theres's a notch about half way down on #17 that the bottom of #20 (Spring) should catch on providing tension so that when #18 goes down it pushes on #19 and the spring pushing the pump down. I don't see that I'm missing any parts so it must be installed incorrectly.
  8. Okay, I'm home with the top of the carb off and the pump works perfect when manually pressed down. I may have a missing part. What actuates the accelerator pump? The lever (link - pump connector) slides up and down the pump shaft but does not push down the pump. Confused.
  9. I THINK I soaked it but certainly not overnight. It's coming apart tonight and into oil.
  10. Got the 53 out the other day after almost 6 months in storage. Was really happy when it started without having to prime it first. It seems that for the last five years or so the accelerator pump does not work in the spring and I end up replacing it. This year is no exception. Pulling away from a light or stop sign is bit of an art. Could the high quality fuel of today be drying it out or attacking it in some way? Nothing serious but just a PITA. Dan
  11. Looks great. Would you happen to have the part number for the crossmember you used? I did not put one on mine.
  12. My son will be happy to know that they are getting used. Started the job of sorting through 1368 truck related photos going back to 1994 when I started on the 53. Wow, I DID do a lot of work on it.
  13. The depression found my 37 year old son unemployed. He decided to go back to school full time pursuing a degree that hopefully will help him be employable. Part of his study last semester was a photography class. Attached are a couple of his photos plus a color book page created from one of the photos. Download and have your kids or grand kids create masterpieces. Enjoy!
  14. My brother-in-law lives in Mpls and kept telling me about it. He finally grabbed his camera and got a couple of pics.
  15. Sorry if this is a duplicate. 61st and Nicollet, Minneapolis
  16. Jordan's got a nice solid project truck on his hands. Brings back a lot of memories and I'll probably live vicariously through his project. Interestingly the linkage for the 3 speed is still attached but it has a 4 speed installed. Dan
  17. Jordan, First, Welcome. I just replied to your PM. You will learn that this forum has such a wealth of information available to you. Nice to have a fellow enthusiast closer than the cities. Dan
  18. Thanks for the replies. Interestingly, I've noticed that 15 inch aftermarket steel wheels with a 5 on 5" bolt pattern are not that common anymore. I think I'll keep my eyes open for 16" Dodge wheels with springs, but in the interim, maybe see if I can find an inexpensive set of straight 15" wheels unless I can peddle the new 215's quick.
  19. I believe 16" wheels were on the 1/2 tons with a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern while the 15" on the 3/4 tons are 5 on 5" which mine is. Can this be confirmed? Are original 16" wheels scarce? Dan
  20. Attached are a couple of pics of the new 215-75-15 tires on the B4. I got good news today about the front end regarding alignment. The owner of the small shop was familiar with the centering of the steering box and other procedures that have been discussed on this forum. Steering box, king pins, tie rod ends are all in good shape. Bad news is that all wheels are bent and balancing is poor at best. The easy solution would be to get aftermarket steel wheels and use baby moons or something similar. I'm toying with going to 16" and taller tires that would fill the wheel wells more. Opinions? Dan
  21. It does help, thanks. I've got a couple of spare pumpkins that I can find gears for. Dan
  22. Awhile back we were discussing my inability to really use 5th gear with the T5 and 3.50 rear gears. Dave72dt had written: Calculting the 3.5 rear diff with a common .76 OD ratio you end up with somewhere around 2.8 for a final ratio. No wonder you need a head of steam! These swaps were most effective on 3.90, 4.11 or higher ratios making them livable on freeways with final ratios around 3.00. UPDATE: New tires are on with an advertised mounted diameter of 27.7". The T5 that I have is a 1352-145 with a 5th gear ratio of 0.72. The smaller tires do help but it's turning 2000 rpm @ 60 mph in 5th. 4th is about 2700 rpm @ 60 mph. Could someone recalculate the final ratio? I'm thinking deeper gears are in order. Dan
  23. I'm going up Friday only but not with the Dodge. I'll be looking for Pilot Houses too. Then it's down to Iowa Speedway for the Saturday and Sunday races.
  24. I had no idea that the car bellhousing was that much narrower. From the pic, you can barely make out the two holes on the left side that were filled.
  25. I believe he's talking about the holes that needed to be filled, drilled, and tapped. In MY situation, two of the T5 mounting holes encroched on two of the existing holes used for the original 4-speed. What the shop did in MY case was thread in a bolt or stud into the bellhousing holes, weld it from the inside, and grind or machine it flush with the outside mounting surface. They then were able to stand the combination on end like Ed shows erlier in this thread, transfer the hole locations, drill, and tap. I must stress, with the different T5's and different bellhousing combination, filling and drilling holes may or may not be necessary.
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