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Posted

Well I got my head gasket installed but now the engine won't start. I think its a timing issue as I pulled out the distributor and thought I had it installed in the right position. Well I might be oft one gear tooth on the distributor shaft or something? Its cold outside and so I think I will call it a day and go back to it tomorrow. My compression is 90 plus on all cylinders and so I guess my juice in just on the loose! Tired on playing with the old Dodge but it will eventually start up and run just fine, I know that.

Posted

Just pull it and and rotate 180 degrees, and fire this puppy up, man, I would not have the patience to wait till tomorrow, it would be bugging me all night.................Hope it runs well Jon

Posted

Its to cold outside to mess with the old Dodge! I did go out and rechecked my compression and all cyclinders are up at 90 lbs!!!! And I will just take the distributor out and go 180 with it. I feel I have been making love to that distributor for a week now. We have become very close to one another. Anyway car swap meet tomorrow and thats allways fun to go to. Who knows maybe I might even buy something? Like a Model A Ford !

Posted
Its to cold outside to mess with the old Dodge! I did go out and rechecked my compression and all cyclinders are up at 90 lbs!!!! And I will just take the distributor out and go 180 with it. I feel I have been making love to that distributor for a week now. We have become very close to one another. Anyway car swap meet tomorrow and thats allways fun to go to. Who knows maybe I might even buy something? Like a Model A Ford !

How about an A model hotrod, complete with a Mopar Flathead 6, duals carbs and exhaust..........:D

Posted

img012.jpg I was wondering if someone here could tell me if my rotor is in the approximate position for firing order.

The numbers on the picture are position of a clock and my rotor at the present time is set at about 7 oclock. My brain won't let me know if all flat head six engines rotors for fireing number one cyclinder is in the same position but I would suppose that they are. Thanks

PS. When I had the head oft I thought I put the rotor in the right position but maybe I didn't. Number one piston was up at the top and both intake and exhaust vls were closed. Any help thanks

Posted

Jon, as suggested, pull dist and rotate 180 degrees.

Do you have all wires attached to the coil, did you check for spark, did you re-set point with dizzy out.

Even once you rotate the dizzy 180 degrees, you may need to retime, but it should fire if that is your engines problem....keep us informed throughout the day, is there any forum members nearby, or can someone call Jon and walk him through this........

Posted

Nope took the day oft and went to a car swap met. A friend of mine gave me another distributor but I can see that it will not work. Its for a latter mopar produce and the case itself is different. The old one distributor cap sits down in a recessed area when in place this new old one has no such area. But it basically the same and could be used in a pinch but for now I will just play with the old one and maybe just figure my problem from hell out!!!! I will first turn it 180 tomorrow and see what happens and then if that doesn't get it I will put it back in place but advance it one gear tooth. Now time to call it a day and go to la-la time.:rolleyes:

Posted

I do not understand when you say "advance it one gear tooth" The only gear teeth are on the oil pump. Just make sure your #1 piston is at TDC Then set the distributor in and the rotor should be around the 7 oclock position. If its at the opposite just rotate the rotor 180 to 7 oclock.

Posted
I do not understand when you say "advance it one gear tooth" The only gear teeth are on the oil pump. Just make sure your #1 piston is at TDC Then set the distributor in and the rotor should be around the 7 oclock position. If its at the opposite just rotate the rotor 180 to 7 oclock.

I agree, Jon, what the heck do you mean "advance 1 gear tooth", there ain't no gear teeth on the dizzy. Do you mean the rotor contact position, by moving it. As been suggested, pull dizzy,and re-install 180 degrees to see if that is the problem.

Do you have spark?..........

Posted
How about an A model hotrod, complete with a Mopar Flathead 6, duals carbs and exhaust..........:D

I'm not selling!:D

Posted

Might want to pull the coil wire from the dist. cap lay it by a good ground spot, remove the dist. cap, turn the key on and manually fire the coil to make sure it isn't a point, condenser, or supply power to the dist. problem.

Posted
I'm not selling!:D

Moose, got any pics, would like to create something like this myself, in the future Found the pics, cool A

Posted

to be quite honest...it is time to stop the talking...get a cup of coffee..mentally note what you did when you took the head off...if you did not establish the knowns prior to taking a running engine apart..I would suggest that you start at scratch and work forward..IF you did verify TDC, verify 7 o'clock rotor, did not pull the plugs wires out of the cap..and did not drop the oil pump..then it is 180 or power/points etc..even without engine start..do you have ignition?

Posted

There is a simple trouble shooting chart for no start problems. The first steps include assuring you have the things necessary for ignition. These would be air fuel compression and spark. I would suggest do the static timing procedure out lined in the manual before doing anything else.

Posted

1. Pulled head oft

2. Checked that when number one piston was just over the top and one its way down and both vlvs shut made sure that rotor was at right position (piston just over the top and going down).

3. Inspected points and made sure that they were set at the right (.020)

4. Made sure that all wires are in the right firing order from the cap to the plug.

5. Check to see if I was getting a nice hot spark out of coil.

6. With cap on check to make sure spark was getting down to spark plugs.

7. Checked all plugs to make sure they have the right gap.

8. Made sure that there is gas going down the carburetor.

9. Rechecked the each cylinder for proper compression

90 on all cylinders.

Now here is what I might have done wrong? When I installed the plugs I put some grease on each plug but sprayed each contact area with brake fluid to make sure they were clean.

This I just noticed and will fix the first thing this morning is that the bolts in the starter are loose and causing the starter to kick out just a little. ( rocks) Not sure if that would cause the engine not to fire.

I could but I don't think I did reinstall the rotor in the wrong position. ( But I'm going to check this out today by taking out plug number one and check to make sure both vlvs are down in the seating position for compression firing stroke. Also at the same time I will make sure with a piece of plastic banding that the number one cylinder in on its way down. (I know you can not see this but I have down this befor and have been successful at it). Also check with my compression gage to make sure that the number one position is in the firing position.

Anyway thats it and we shall see what a happens :cool:????

Posted

Let's step back a minute. There are two revolutions of the crankshaft for every revolution of the camshaft and distributor.

Power stroke: piston at top, both valves closed, piston moves down.

Exhaust stroke: while piston moves up, exhaust valve opens, then closes at top of stroke.

Intake stroke; as piston moves down, intake valve opens, then closes at bottom of stroke.

Compression stroke: piston moves up, with valves closed. Rotor points to No. 1 plug wire, and cylinder fires.

So there are two positions where the piston is at top dead center with the valves closed. It's not enough to see that the No. 1 piston is at top dead center with both valves closed. That's why the guys are talking about rotating the distributor shaft 180 degrees, in the event that it is set to the wrong stroke.

If the head is on, you can verify that the No. 1 piston is coming up to the power stroke by removing the spark plug and feeling for compression as the piston comes up. You can put your thumb over the spark plug hole while you crank the engine (with the ignition off).

If the head is off, and both valves are closed as the No. 1 piston rises, you are coming to top dead center for setting the timing. If the exhaust valve is closing as the piston rises, it's one revolution off, or 180 degrees of the distributor shaft.

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