Spark Plug Wires

[Joe Flanagan]

I installed my wires today and it was one of those cut-to-fit arrangements. The brand of wires I got is Belden. When I cut the insulation off to expose the center, I discovered that the center is actually made of some kind of black fabric. Confused the heck out of me. I expected to see some kind of metal at the core. I kept cutting back trying to find the metal and then realized that this black fabric stuff IS the core of the wire. Is anyone familiar with this? I keep thinking I've gotten one of the worst assembly-line screw-ups ever. And I can't say I'm thrilled with the cut-to-fit business.

[Plymouthy Adams]

if you want wire style you may have to go to TSC and get them..else you going to get the radio suppressant cables as you describe..these are as easy to cut to length as wires..depends on what you want...

[Joe Flanagan]

As long as they'll work, I'm fine with it. I'd just never seen it before. They are called IRS cables, no?

[Norm's Coupe]

They came out with those types of wires years ago. Back when they were new, they called them "carbon wires". Personally, I like the old style stranded copper wire, as I feel they conduct the power better and last longer. Plus, back when the carbon type wires first came out, they had a lot of trouble with the carbon breaking easily. You can buy the copper stranded wire by the roll at most auto parts stores. Or, you can buy them pre-cut to fit from places like Andy B., etc.

[Powerhouse]

I HAVE HAD FIRST AND SECOND HAND EXPERIENCE WITH THE NON-COPPER CORE WIRES BEING INSUFFICIENT FOR 6 VOLT SYSTEMS.

If you are running 12v...I guess it is OK.

[Plymouthy Adams]

as it is secondary voltage and way up there in thousands of volts..I fail to see the 6/12 connection..

[WatchingWolf]

6 volt or 12 volt is irrelevant, when the field collapses and the coil discharges it is a hella big zap regardless.

[Joe Flanagan]

Tim,

By the time the current reaches the plugs we are talking about thousands of volts? I am pretty ignorant on this subject aside from the basics.

[RobertKB]

Tim,

By the time the current reaches the plugs we are talking about thousands of volts? I am pretty ignorant on this subject aside from the basics.

Tim is correct as usual. Just hold onto one of those babies when the car is running and you will feel the thousand of volts. Ever touched a 110 volt housewire by mistake. That just tingles in comparison. Spark plugs hurt. Take it from one who has been there and done that and is now very cautious around spark plugs. Fortunately, volts tend not to kill as it is the amperage that is the most dangerous.

[TodFitch]

as it is secondary voltage and way up there in thousands of volts..I fail to see the 6/12 connection..

Ran carbon fiber/radio noise suppression plug wires on my 1933 for years with no noticeable ill effects. I happen to have copper wire cored plug wires on the car now as the vintage looking cloth covered wires all (that I know of) have copper cores.

Only bad effect of the copper is if you have a AM radio near by or in the car. That is not too much of a problem nowadays. Back in the 70s I had people at stop lights glare at me because their radios were emitting noise from my ignition. Switching to carbon spark plug wires solved that.

[Plymouthy Adams]

before the carbon wires..there was the resisitor plug..supposed to have helped a bit with radio noise..today they are across-the-board application due to the electronics and buss lines controlling the engine and body controllers of the modern car..

[dezeldoc]

Joe, i have a brand new set of copper cloth covered wires i will sell ya, let me know. Mike

[pflaming]

Bought a coil holder which had indentations to grip the coil. I overtightened it and indented the coil which grounded it out and ruined it. Evidently the wires inside are a TIGHT fit!

[Powerhouse]

well, I don't know why they didn't work then.

All I know is I changed from old copper cores to new type wires for a tune up...the new wires ran worse than the junky old ones. I asked the guys in my club if it would matter and the only guy with any input said he did the same thing and had to get new copper core. That worked for both of us. Everything else was ship shape.

[Joe Flanagan]

I had trouble getting a good fit with the end connectors for some reason. I couldn't get them to crimp tightly enough to the wire. When I did crimp them tightly I sometimes distorted them and they wouldn't seat in the distributor right. If this thing doesn't run right, I'll know where to look first.

Tod,

Funny thing about the copper wires. I wish there was a way to disable the radio in an adjacent car entirely.

Doc,

Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know.

[Rodney Bullock]

Hey Joe, glad to hear you are moving along with the project. The wires are strange, I had radio static real bad. I think between two or three of ths forum members put me on the right course. I have the cloth covered wires however I also have the resister plugs. I have one of those condenser looking things as well. I do not have any radio noise in either antique. This is important because I have 6 volt inverter on my radio for AM/FM signal. Time will tell when you start it up.

[Bingster]

Rodney, where did you get that condenser thingy? I have one on my '47 that I need to replace. I am very much looking forward to cruising down the road with the AM playing static free. Merry Chrstmas!!

[Norm's Coupe]

Back in the day, I never had one of those noise suppressors on my cars. Early model cars owned back then were 52 Dodge, 57 Ford, 58 Chevy, 64 Chevelle, 65 Dodge and 67 Chrysler. None of those had FM radios, just AM. I never had any static in the radio then either. But.........I did use "Resistor" plugs.

[T120]

I've used this tool to make up several sets of spark plug wires using copper core ignition wire.I found a couple of cylinders were not firing on car I was troubleshooting a number of years back and this was due to a couple of open carbon ignition wires.Since then, on older vehicles I prefer to use copper core ignition wire.Just my preference.This is the tool I have used.No part number, but made in the USA and I bought it a number of years back at an auto supply store here in Canada.

[Joe Flanagan]

Ralph,

I used a similar tool. I used a lubricant so I could slide the wires through the distributor boots more easily. I found that after I crimped some of the ends on the wires, I could pull them off easily with my fingers. This had something to do with the lubricant, I think, but also that I just couldn't crimp them well enough onto the wires. As far as I know, all the carbon fiber is making contact with the connectors and the connections are tight. But it's the crimped-on ends at the distributor that worry me a little.

[T120]

Hi Joe,The "W" crimp is what I used to make the final crimp.If you notice,there is also a "pre-crimp".I used this tool on copper core wire.There is usually a "spear" or two in the crimp connector to penetrate the insulation in the ignition wire to contact the inner conductor and help hold it in place.I generally use copper and I fold it back over the insulation and under the crimp connector,(just my way).I also use silicone grease to ease the boot over the connector.I haven't had a problem with them pulling free.The "W" crimps rather tight.The "tit" on the crimp tool (W) at the split on the connector and opposite the wire folded under the connector.

Edited December 6, 2009 by Ralph D25cpe

[Joe Flanagan]

Interesting, Ralph. My connectors did not have any such spike to pierce the insulation. That would have been a big help. The instructions advised to fold the core of the wire backward and to slip on the connector so that it made contact with the core, which I did. Also, the tool I used is actually intended for coaxial cable, but I figured it would work for this purpose.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Joe, sad to say but I think your kit was incomplete and thus your problem instaling them...the termination clips and boots whould have been in a bag within the box for the custom tailoring of the wires for your application...

[Young Ed]

Joe the wire ends and boots are all available from napa. I made my own set with their supplies.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Joe...if your search of the local area bares no fruit, I would be happy to donate a set of end terminal for the distributor cap end, the special ones for the coil wire and if you are so interested a set of L-shaped metal clip for th original look on your engine...I got a few of these in a large box of stuff I bought at auction from the local county maintenance shed..you need just to let me know..