Door removal

[milo ringe]

I have a 53 1/2 ton pickup b1b and the door hinge pins appear to look like a pin / bolt as there is threads and a nut on the lower end of both the top and bottom hinge . Can these be tapped with a hammer etc to remove the door without removing the complete hings on the door ?

I tried lightly but my did not move and before I get harder with the hammer I wanted some advise at removing the doors.

Also I have only a rod coming through the floor but no accelerator pedal, did the pedal bolt to the floor and was there a spring behind the pedal and the floor ?

Thanks

Milo

[geopcanuk]

I had the same problem with my door pins,however they were straight pins without nuts.I could not get them out either and had to remove the door with hinges from the cab,then with the use if "Mr Torch"was able to apply heat and then punch them out.

George

[Byronb3b]

The original gas pedal fit on ball studs that were atttached to the floor, watch out for expensive and poor quality reproductions.

[grey beard]

I was able to remove my hinge pins only after two years of soaking and beating on them. The lower ones are most difficult to get to. Finally after I pulled my running boards, I was able to get a good swing at them from beneath the hinge. Put enough panther and enough BFH (big fat hammer, what else?) on 'em and they'll move. Blue nose wrench is last resort - torch.

[Merle Coggins]

I must also agree with these guys. But I'll also warn that if you beat too much on the pins, you risk mushrooming the ends. Then no amount of Panther P!$$ (penatrating oil) or heat will help.

Also, like Byron says, watch out for cheap replacement pedals. I got one from Roberts... it fits well, and works, but it'll also bend quite easy if you don't hold your foot right. I've still got my original and have been contemplating whether I want to send it to Steele Rubber to be redone. However that won't be cheap, so I'm still contemplating.

Merle

[Frank Elder]

Merle, would you suggest using a brass punch instead, as it will mushroom before the pin? Or will it move it at all?

[Merle Coggins]

A brass drift may help, but if it's a farily large one it may still damage the pin if hit hard enough when it's stuck tight.

My recommendation... if it doesn't move easily, soak it, then soak it some more, and it it still won't move use lots of heat.

When I removed my doors I took out the bolts and pulled them off with the hinges. Then I got some replacement doors and had to reuse a couple of the hinges. I had a couple pins move easy, and a couple were quite stubborn.

Merle

[buds truck]

As I recall, I was lucky and mine came out pretty easily. I used an air Chisel with a blunt end on it. Since I am suiciding the doors, I have some extra pins, any one need them?? Bud

[Young Ed]

I think on the 39-47 group I saw a device made to push them out. Sorta a C clamp looking device. Looks like quite the way to go. I need to do something with one of mine-its too short to properly hold my mirror on

[Dajudge]

If you pull the doors with the hinges, is it necessary to pull the hinge pins?  My doors fit perfect but they need to come apart for "derustification" and paint.  If I just unbolt the hinge there is really no reason to worry about the lower pin, correct?  Upper needs to come out to work on mirrors.

[randroid]

DJ,

 

Every thing you've been told is good advice and I can't add to it so far as the hinges are concerned, but I read a tip on the car side that may help you reassemble it.  Before you pull the doors drill a 1/8" hole through each hinge plate because 1/8" is just slightly smaller than the diameter of a 16p nail.  When you're ready for reassembly drive a nail through the hole in the plate and into the hole you drilled along the hinge line and voila!, instant alignment once the bolts are started.

 

Don't drive the nails until you seat them or you'll pay the devil to get them out.  The hole can easily be filled with Bondo but the holes will be so small they'll hide themselves and don't need filling, especially if there's a dab of paint on them.

 

Have fun.

 

-Randy

[HanksB3B]

^^^ What a Great Idea^^^

 

h 

[Desotodav]

I've removed many doors from Oz trucks by unbolting the hinges and leaving the pins in - there were 9 in the last batch. It does become problematic when you snap off the bolts when trying to undo them in the hinges!

[Scruffy49]

The pins aren't that bad on mine. But those useless little hold open things... wife hid my angle grinder, I was going to excise those blasted little pieces of scrap permanently.

 

My truck also needs a gas pedal. Seriously considering using the one out of the parts donor Ranger, Simple firewall port for a cable to pass through, bolt on the pedal box, and done. Had a Robert's pedal years ago, didn't last long. The hinge mounted version from an International or other older tractor trailer with rod operated throttle is a direct bolt in and works great, just a bit oversized. If you want to keep a through the floor set up instead of swapping pedal styles.

[Tooljunkie]

Time to resurrect an old thread. How in the blazes do you disconnect the door check? 
i want to pull doors to make cab a little lighter and easier to manage. 
the 1/8 hole in hinge is an awesome idea! Could use a cotter pin in lieu of a nail too. 

[Lingle]

I believe you are talking about the part that keeps the door from opening too far?  if so I cut the pin holding the A pillar side, last I researched you had to remove the pin/rivet to remove that part.  I plan to just bolt mine back together when I re-assemble the cab.

[Eneto-55]

On my Plymouth, I had the door panel  off already, so I removed the pin inside the door.  It IS a bit of a chore to hold the door up and get that flat piece back in through the slot, so the other way may be better.

[ggdad1951]

2 hours ago, Tooljunkie said:

Time to resurrect an old thread. How in the blazes do you disconnect the door check? 
i want to pull doors to make cab a little lighter and easier to manage. 
the 1/8 hole in hinge is an awesome idea! Could use a cotter pin in lieu of a nail too. 

 

I removed the rivet and got a bag of them to get the 2 I needed.....

[Tooljunkie]

Thats what i figured. Thanks!

Edited July 1, 2020 by Tooljunkie

[Young Ed]

I replaced mine with threaded posts. Then it's removable in the future if needed.

[Merle Coggins]

1 hour ago, Young Ed said:

I replaced mine with threaded posts. Then it's removable in the future if needed.

 

I did the same. I believe they’re called Binding Post bolts, or screws. I got them at my local hardware store. 

[ggdad1951]

On 7/1/2020 at 4:34 PM, Merle Coggins said:

 

I did the same. I believe they’re called Binding Post bolts, or screws. I got them at my local hardware store. 

 

I first heard these called "sex bolts"

[Radarsonwheels]

The short ones for leather work are called ‘chicago screws’ 

 

I never even considered it a double entendre...