JIPJOBXX Posted January 18, 2009 Report Posted January 18, 2009 http://reviews.ebay.com/Paint-amp-Rust-Removal-Old-Metal-Toys-amp-Antique-Car-Parts_W0QQugidZ10000000002915480?ssPageName=BUYGD:CAT:-1:LISTINGS:1 Quote
Flatie46 Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 I've thought about this, I had an old motorcycle gas tank that I Kreemed the inside of and I used acid to clean the rust out. It worked great on the bike tank,was thinkin of doing this to my plymouth gas tank. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 hot lye tank will work wonders also... Quote
JerseyHarold Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 If you're using lye, a good source for it is Easy-Off oven cleaner.....just be careful spraying it around. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 lye as in 1 lb cans of Red Devil that you used to be able to get is off the market..Ace Hardware had their own brand but it is no longer available..you have to buy it now from a chemical warehouse...sign on the dotted line and have the proper hazmat container for transport..paying shipping puts this stuff almost off the shelf..if you don't pick it yup in person..expensive..and I think I had to buy 25 lbs minimum when I bought my last supply..hard for home soap makers, people dealing in cast iron cookwear to continue to do what they enjoy..not to mention hot strip tanks..ever see a cast iron head after cooking in a lye bath..like brand new castings.. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 If you're using lye, a good source for it is Easy-Off oven cleaner.....just be careful spraying it around. Back in the late 60's my brothers wife was using that to clean her oven. As she sprayed it into the oven some got on her arm. Had 3rd burns all over her forearm afterward. She still has the scars from that today. Quote
makkelsay Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 I've had burns from easy off...it aint fun I found that cheap oven cleaner from the dollar store works wonders for stripping as long as u wear a face mask and do it outside...I thought about doing it on my car now but since its winter and I'm in a garage the degreaser is bad enough And kerosene is a great degreaser...but most of yall probably knew that Quote
RobertKB Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 I have done similar to the muriatic acid but used vinegar instead which I believe is acetic acid. It probably takes a little longer than suggested for the muriatic acid. You also have to use the vinegar full strength so it may actually work out more expensive. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 do not use vinegar on cast iron however..it will disolve the metal.. Quote
randroid Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Gents, One of our forum members described a "reverse electroplating" method last Spring that I used on the rusted lid hinges from my '67 Bug with great success. It required my battery charger, baking soda, some scrap steel rods, and a few feet of wire. Dissolve some baking soda in water in a bucket and pass electricity through the water from the rusty part to the steel rods. It looks real fun, what with the water bubbling and getting frothy, but it's very safe to use and when the job is done just dump the used solution in the dirt because the harshest chemical can also be used to brush your teeth. My setup is buried in the garage and I can't find it right now, but perhaps the original poster of the article could remind us of the polarity; I think negative to the rusty part and positive to the steel rods, but at this hour of the morning the technical side of this eludes me. -Randy Quote
Normspeed Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 I used oven cleaner on this old cast iron stove that came in my teardrop. Did a pretty nice job. I painted it with VHT header paint after the stripping and repairs. Still doesn't cook as well as a Coleman though. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Gents,One of our forum members described a "reverse electroplating" method last Spring that I used on the rusted lid hinges from my '67 Bug with great success. It required my battery charger, baking soda, some scrap steel rods, and a few feet of wire. Dissolve some baking soda in water in a bucket and pass electricity through the water from the rusty part to the steel rods. It looks real fun, what with the water bubbling and getting frothy, but it's very safe to use and when the job is done just dump the used solution in the dirt because the harshest chemical can also be used to brush your teeth. -Randy Randy, you are partially right. It is safe to use and dump the solution after using sometimes, but not all the time. You were just cleaning rust off your hinges so that would be ok to dump as you did. However, when cleaning rust off a manifold, or other engine part it will not always be safe to dump the solution. Yes, the baking soda and water is no problem to dump. But.......a manifold for example has a lot of trace amounts of grease and worse yet MEK (gasoline) in it from years of use. When mixing that with the baking soda solution, it makes the solution hazardous waste and should be handled accordingly. Same applies if that solution is used to remove chrome from a part. Safe, biodegradable products are only safe until you add something that is not, then that product is hazardous material. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 I used oven cleaner on this old cast iron stove that came in my teardrop. Did a pretty nice job. I painted it with VHT header paint after the stripping and repairs. Still doesn't cook as well as a Coleman though. Would this or some other method be good to clean my somewhat rusty dirty seat frame and springs, from the back seat of my Coupe since I done burned off the material..........Fred Quote
Young Ed Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Fred I would think the acid or the soda/battery charger would both work well. Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 He's gonna need a BIIIG bucket to dunk that back seat for the electrolysis process. Quote
Young Ed Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Bob it would be just as big for the acid bath. Besides you can do 1/2 at a time. I would think a plastic trash barrel or 55gal drum would work well enough for a seat. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Bob it would be just as big for the acid bath. Besides you can do 1/2 at a time. I would think a plastic trash barrel or 55gal drum would work well enough for a seat. Ed, I have access to plastic 55 gallon (45 imperial gal) drums from work, make the solution, hook up battery charger and away I go. Thsi should work slick, then immediately prime and paint with rustoleum...... Quote
Young Ed Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 There you go Fred. Just make sure you don't get one that has some chemical residue in it. Don't want you making anything hazardous. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 There you go Fred. Just make sure you don't get one that has some chemical residue in it. Don't want you making anything hazardous. They contain disinfectant which they use to keep:p cow nipples clean before milking them:D , I work on Prison Farm..........Fred Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 The 55 gallon drum may work for the lower seat springs, but don't think the seat back springs would fit in the drum opening. Maybe find an old bathtub, then you could do half at a time. Quote
Jim Yergin Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 How about a child's wading pool? Jim Yergin Quote
TodFitch Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Fred I would think the acid or the soda/battery charger would both work well. The washing soda/battery charger worked very well on the small parts I tried it on. Very impressive in its effectiveness and speed. Since my car is pretty much together I don't need to do a lot of rust removal but it is now my method of choice. If you search around on the web you will find that people have done this on things as large as car frames by making a wooden form large enough to form a tub for the part then using a sheet of plastic to make it hold the water/washing soda mixture. Quote
John Mulders Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 I used Safest Rust remover on parts , seemed to work well. It is safe and easy to use. For larger parts I created a shower using a aquarium pump. http://www.ultraoneusa.com/ Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Gents,One of our forum members described a "reverse electroplating" method last Spring that I used on the rusted lid hinges from my '67 Bug with great success. It required my battery charger, baking soda, some scrap steel rods, and a few feet of wire. Dissolve some baking soda in water in a bucket and pass electricity through the water from the rusty part to the steel rods. It looks real fun, what with the water bubbling and getting frothy, but it's very safe to use and when the job is done just dump the used solution in the dirt because the harshest chemical can also be used to brush your teeth. My setup is buried in the garage and I can't find it right now, but perhaps the original poster of the article could remind us of the polarity; I think negative to the rusty part and positive to the steel rods, but at this hour of the morning the technical side of this eludes me. -Randy How does one pass electricity through this without getting electricuted or blowing fuses? What is the way to set this up? SOunds interesting.. Quote
TodFitch Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 How does one pass electricity through this without getting electricuted or blowing fuses? What is the way to set this up? SOunds interesting.. Non-conductive (plastic or equivalent) bucket with a number of sacrificial electrodes around the perimeter. One write up suggested pieces of rebar, I used strips cut from some sheet metal laying around the garage. Wire all electrodes together and they will be hooked to the positive side of your charger. Fill the bucket with a mixture of washing soda and water. I don't recall the exact amount (and it is not critical) but something like 1 cup soda per 5 gallons should be fine. Suspend the part to be de-rusted in the solution and be sure that it is not touching any of the sacrificial electrodes (you don't want a short circuit). Connect a wire attached to your part to the negative terminal of the battery charger. Do a Google search on "electrolytic rust removal" to get more information than you need. http://www.google.com/search?rls=en-us&q=electrolytic+rust+removal&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 That is pretty much it. There will be some black stuff to wipe off with a cloth/brush/steel wool when you are done. If you hook up the battery charger backwards you will destroy your part (and de-rust the sacrificial electrodes) but other than that it is very safe for your steel and iron parts. In fact it only removes rust so if you leave a part in too long nothing bad happens. The water comes out looking really grungy. As Norm's Coupe mentioned there stuff coming off other than iron oxide that might make it hazardous waste. But that stuff removed from a part would be hazardous anyway if you removed it mechanically or with acid. Quote
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