You need to use a DA sander. I took off a 30 year old laquer job on my car two years ago. Sanded it all down with a DA and was able to avoid getting into any of the previous body work too much. Had a few places to fix and then sprayed the whole car with ultrafill primer. Blocked it with 400, then sprayed it again. Got rid of all the sand scratches. With an electric sander you are going to have a lot more and deeper sand scratches. Use a DA with 80-120 grit. It should work well.
Once I got the car primed and ready for paint I went with basecoat/clearcoat. Much better than the old lacquer.
If you look at the Watson's switch that arm is adjustable. That was the only way I could get it to work on my car. It was a tight fit and once I got it mounted where it would work, I made the adjustment on the lever and as soon as I push down on the brake pedal the lights light up.
Here's a few.
Behind the wheel in So. IL. on a hot evening. Yes those are bugs on the windshield.
A dash pic I really like.
Parked in front of our church for a fall wedding.
In two weeks I will be in New Harmony, IN heading to Evansville for Frog Follies. I've always wanted to get pictures of the car downtown as they have restored old buildings and it is historic. Thought it would be a neat pic. Need to get that done this year.
Bob I had to buy one for my Chebby truck over the weekend. Took the '65 to a cruise in about 60 miles away on Saturday night and had a hard starting problem. Didn't want to get stranded anywhere or need a jump so I took it into autozone to check it out. It was a Duralast 8 year battery. I thought I had bought around 2002 or 2003. Found out that I purchased it in '99. So it lasted 11 years. Pretty good I guess. Went ahead and bought another one just like it. Truck starts right up now.
Same here on the 12V. I have the switch plunger in the same location as well. OD, 12V and Langdon ignition have been the best upgrades to mine in my opinion. Not to mention the upgrade to new modern u-joints was a good idea as well.
I've added an overdrive to my '47. Did it last fall. A wonderful modification and it drives like a dream. As it appears you have experienced. I'd be glad to answer any questions you have. There are several different ways to set it up as you probably have figured out when you searched.
I added an overdrive cable which locks it out and had to add the od relay. Put it on the left inner fender. Then put a "normally closed" push button switch on the left side of the dash. That is my kickdown switch. You can get the carburetor mounted one and punch the accelerator to the floor to kick it out of od, but this push button will kick it out as well. I have the electronic ignition and it will not cut out my ignition as originally figured in the wiring diagram. So I just let off the accelerator and push the button and it kicks it out. Governor does most of the work on my OD.
I have had it up to 65-70 without any trouble. I don't like to drive that fast very often, but it will drop the engine rpm's down about 800rpm compared to standard trans at 55mph.
Careful without the OD though. It winds up pretty tight at 60mph.
Here's some pics Greg. Had mine in since 2007. No problems yet. I just left the hydraulic switch in place and pulled the wires and added them to this switch.
Thanks guys. I'm going to keep my eye out.
Bob, nothing big coming up real soon, but Frog Follies in Evansville, IN is coming up at the end of this month and they usually have a big swap meet. So I might find something there. Have to keep my eye out I guess.
Thanks for the info guys. I was in autozone last night and didn't see any like this. Maybe I need to check around at some of the larger stores. Wal-mart didn't have any either. Thanks for the steering wheel size Randy. I forgot what size it was and it is too hot to go out to the garage and measure.
Been trying to find a steering wheel cover for my P-15 like the one pictured below. Haven't had much luck yet. Anyone know of a place to find these? I think there may be some on ebay, but I was trying to avoid an ebay purchase is possible. The car had one like this on it years ago, but rotted out due to age and I had to remove it.
Very nice Bob. Looks like you had a lot of fun. Seems Friday weddings are getting to be more frequent then they used to be. Guess things start to book up fast on Saturdays.
Hey BK. Just a little info. A friend of mine installed a vintage air unit in his '71 Nova, and he had overheating problems like you are talking about which he did not have before. He ended up putting an aluminum radiator in and that fixed the problem. Told me that vintage air advised him to do that.
Got an update. I had to have the head ground to .020. It was warped pretty bad. Most likely if not definitely the cause of my problem. Checked the top of the block and it checked out okay. Put the new gasket on yesterday and torqued the head down. Checked compression and 100lbs in every cylinder. All looking good so far.
After changing the oil and filling it back up with antifreeze had to take care of a few small leaks on the thermostat housing. Then all was good and I fired it up. It runs so smooth and has so much power back. I drove it yesterday about 5 miles and it drove great. Once it goes in OD now it pulls so much better than before. Guess it helps running on 6 cyls rather than 4.
Thanks for the input on this guys it is much appreciated as always!
You nailed it Tim. Had the machine shop check it and it was warped pretty good. Getting it resurfaced and should have it back on Friday.
It is my fault as when I redid this motor after it rolled a rod bearing I did not check the head. It was supposedly rebuilt by a professional in the late 90's, only had about 1,000 miles on it when it rolled the bearing. So I thought it was good. Just glad I found the issue and I'm getting it resolved now. Also very happy it was not a burnt valve.
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.