steveplym

Last Saturday and Sunday I went up to the St. Louis area for a couple of shows. About a 2 hour drive up there from home. There was a cruise at Culver's in Collinsville Saturday night and then a Father's day rod run on Sunday in Highland, IL. They had a lot of nice cars and really good pork steaks. Was a good time had by all. Went up there with a buddy of mine and his '37 Chevy sedan. It rained hard Saturday morning and then quit about noon. We left after lunch and didn't get rained on until we got to the hotel later on that evening. Rain was done by Sunday morning and we ate breakfast and were off to Highland. Car ran great and I have enjoyed driving it. Put almost 1,000 miles on it in two months. Still working out a few bugs as I go along. Saw a few other mopars and a P-15 that was for sale. Wanted to share a few pics. Link to the entire album: http://s167.photobucket.com/albums/u122/siufan6/SISRA%202011/

I found my switch in a box of different push button switches at a swap meet. I think I spent maybe $2 on it. They are out there.

Glad things are getting back to normal for you Bob. Wondered if the ladies that worked at your office made it okay? I remember meeting one or two of them a few years back when I came out to get that fender. Good luck in the future!

Very nice!

Does it make a difference if the slip yoke is positioned closer to the transmission or the rear end? I have always heard put it closer to the transmission, wanted to get others input.

Looking to see what you find out as I am battling the exact same problem now. Dropped off my driveshaft at the shop late last week and haven't heard back yet so hoping something is off there. If not I guess I will be switching the wheels front to back to see what happens there.

Here's a wiring diagram. Might give you a few ideas on where to start.

Thanks for the tips Mark. I've taken the driveshaft to a local machine shop to check and make sure it's balanced. Haven't heard back from them yet. Hoping tomorrow. If that turns out okay then will probably check the wheel balance again. Just bought new wheels and tires, I would think they would be okay, but who knows. Process of elimination I guess.

Glad you are in good spirits Bob. Many thoughts and prayers headed to you and yours.

Thanks for the tips guys. Now I just have to find some time this week to check a few more things. I'm thinking about going ahead and having the driveshaft checked and balanced just to make sure all is okay there.

Well a small update here. I put back in the old driveshaft today just to see how it runs as it has been over two years since I have changed it out. Pretty much the same issue, just starts at slower speeds. The only thing I can think of now is to eliminate the wheels then look at pinion angle. I just put brand new wheels and tires on the car in January. Guess it wouldn't hurt to check that, only problem is I had this issue before and that was one of the reasons I replaced the wheels and tires. Tires were 10 years old and needed replaced and the wheels I thought would look neat on the car. Otherwise to look on the bright side of things I drove the car about 8 hours on the interstate this weekend and it ran great. Temp never got over 190 degrees and it purred right along.

I just changed it Greg, about a month ago. The vibration is definitely coming from the rear. Can feel it through the floorboards and seat rather than the steering wheel.

Just saw this and thought of Bob too. The pics look like the damage is pretty bad. He probably is at least out of power. Several pics on the hamb of the damage. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=592229

Yeah Rick, you never know. Tod I replaced the wheels and tires this year and had them checked before I mounted the tires to make sure they weren't bent. I guess the question I have is this a symptom of worn bearing and parts in the rear end or should I be looking elsewhere?

Spent a few hours on the interstate this weekend and noticed my vibration problems. Here is what I've got. I replaced the driveshaft with modern u-joints and it was balanced and manufactured by a reputable shop. Overdrive is all rebuilt and I have replaced the rear leaf springs brand new from espo with all new shackles and shocks. Engine mounts have been replaced as well. I have not done any work to the rear end yet. That is my next part of the car to tackle. About 62 mph it the noise and vibration starts to get bad and gets worse the faster it goes. Also gets worse on decel from any speed over 55mph. My guess here is I have a pinion bearing worn out, it is leaking a bit, and I know the seal is bad. Could it be anything else? If I tear this thing down I'm going to pretty much just replace all the bearings and seals to do it right, I just wanted to see what you guys thought. Thanks!

Hey Fred. I have the steel line up to the carb from the fuel pump like you. I did though run a metal line from the left side where it mounts on the tank all the way up to the front and around the rad support then it connects to a rubber line on the right front to the fuel pump. I don't have any problems with vapor lock, and I don't even have the fuel pump heat shield on.

Haven't heard from you in a long time Bill. Sorry to hear about the accident. Wanted to let you know the OD is still going strong and I continue to enjoy it.

Hey Don, That sounds like fun, but I may not get down there until after 7pm or so on Friday night. Might be ready for a cold drink and a dip in the pool by that time. Anything going on down there Saturday night?

Thanks for the tip Ed. I'm driving to Nashville next weekend and trying to get all the quick fixes done I can. As much rain as we have had the last month or so it is a safe bet it might rain a bit.

I would definitely get a voltage reducer, like a runtz, for your fuel gauge and probably going to need one for your clock. If you clock works I would definitely try to avoid feeding it 12 volts. Those things are very valuable especially when they work.

Well I just installed the newport 12 volt wiper motor in my car so driving in the rain will not be so scary anymore. With the sunvisor though and some rain-x it really wasn't that bad. I usually don't like to take it out in the rain if I can avoid it, but if it comes a flood after I leave, so be it. Now if I can just figure out how to keep it from flooding the engine compartment through the molding holes in the hood I would be alright.

I would pull the trans first. I could never get it to clear the firewall. If you have the radiator support out and some of the front sheet metal off maybe. Others may have had different experiences, but it never worked for me.

I did the 12v conversion a few years ago. Went with the one wire delco alternator and I've been very happy with the conversion. I now have a 12 volt wiper motor from new port engineering, modern stereo, and langdon's mini hei. Couldn't be happier with all these accessories. I rewired the car before the conversion and wired it with the larger 6 volt wiring so I did not see the need to switch any of that over as it was all new. I did add a fuse block though for all the additional accessories for added protection. As for the alternator I bought a universal bracket to mount it to my flathead and just modified the upper bracket to make it work. Went with a 4 pole 12 volt solenoid as well. A thread I started with pics and info. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=14369&highlight=conversion another http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=11977&highlight=conversion If you need any assistance I would be glad to offer advice. PM me for any additional info.

Really enjoyed following your trip. Glad you made it home safely and with little trouble.

Yeah you have to bend down a bit to see them during the day, but usually at night it works pretty well.