lonejacklarry

Well, not only did he agree he suggested that I source the items after he told me what was needed. I delivered the engine with rotating parts intact this a.m. and will wait until he tells me what I need. Rereading the rebuild hints (thanks, again, to all that responded) I found an item that I don't understand. Would someone explain how the oil pump is correctly timed with the cam?

Vintage power wagons sells them for $10. The part number is FPBOP. You'll have to make your own gasket.

Polar vortex, huh? When I was a kid they called this "winter". The all-time record low in Kansas City was -23 on December 22 and 23, 1989. It got to -4 yesterday and it is 6 above now. I guess it is warming up. For the curious the coldest temperature recorded in the contiguous U.S. is 70 degrees below zero, measured at Rogers Pass, Montana, on Jan. 20, 1954. Of course that was before global warming.

There is a product called XPEL sold and installed my my window tinting folks. It is a clear film that is used on fenders and grills to protect the paint from rocks and bugs. I had the window tint people use this stuff on the running boards of my '37 Chevy coupe. Although the car is not quite running yet the application is invisible. The drawback? My running boards are smooth but I don't know what the surface of a '51 pickup is so this idea might not work. Other options would be undercoat spray or bed liner spray. Very tough stuff but is textured. If the film doesn't work for you I would simply paint them every winter. It can't take too long and it would give you something to do.

I used Diamondback Tires https://dbtires.com/ for my '37 Chevy coupe project. They are not cheap but are made from new name brand modern tires as opposed to some that use old name brand molds. All are radials but they have some that look like bias ply. They recommend Simple Green for their whitewalls and specifically warn against products containing bleach.

I did not see an open thread for dumb questions so I started my very own: I'm aware that a new oil pump has to be primed by immersion out of the engine as it will not prime itself. Ok, I can live with that. The question: If an engine is assembled with the primed pump will it lose the prime if it sits?

It is a Harley Davidson "knucklehead" and was made from 1936 to 1947. That engine replaced the flathead engine. The front end has a "springer" suspension and the putt is euphemistically called a "bobber" .

Don't forget the water distribution tube replacement. There are several threads relating to its removal and replacement and all involve a lot of cursing and wrench throwing. If you don't know where it is: in your last picture there is an oval shaped hole in the front of the block. Read up on the removal prior to starting. Other than the engine it looks like a real peach!

I think that it would be fine to block me---Not much danger of me coming back anyhow. I also feel some of these people that run these shows were hall monitors earlier in their lives and currently are officers in their home owners association.

I wonder how that would be enforced.

Thanks for that information. And thanks to the other contributions to my winter engine project. All is good advice particularly the "gotcha" section. If there is an error to be made I am usually the culprit.

I am looking for an engine builder for my 230 inline 6. Every engine has a few things that are different from other styles and I'm curious as to the little things that makes for a successful rebuild. I've gathered parts such as an oil pump, WDT, timing chain and sprockets, etc. I plan on delivering the block with crank,pistons, cam, and valves intact along with a shop manual. Depending on the machine work required I can then source under/oversize bearing, pistons, etc. The question: What is different or a must do for these engines? I'm referring to the little stuff that is esoteric to this engine that may or may not need done to the average small block Chevy. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I don't know you personally but you're a lot tougher than am I! On the other hand, sausage is made of whatever is left, I think. Therefore whatever is left of monkeys is probably the same as whatever is left of domestic farm animals. The answer is still no!

I have been bitten several times over the years with factory "orginal" hardware vs the hardware that came on an old vehicle. Previous owner changes over the years with a 60+ year old vehicle are very possible.

That hits the nail on the head unless someone takes offense to the violence and has to sit in his or hers or take your pick safe place,

I'd opine that if the owner wants his car back then he should have to pay for the removal. Natural disasters are just that.

What does your title indicate?

I have no idea what a dressmaker pin is--apparently a lot of you do know. Anyhow, I was taught the stud method and it works well for me. If I run across the aforementioned dressmaker pins, I will try them.

The pins they are talking about are actually studs, I think. Screw them in hand tight and slip the pan over them and bolt away. This saves the aggravation of trying to hold the pan without slipping. After the bolts are in hand tight one would removed the studs and replace them with the original bolts. There is no way for them to work out and into anything.

My sister sent this one to me that I had forgotten all about. I sent it to her in '67 or '68. It surely beat walking through the mud. You have to remember to take your boot off the rocket tube before it is used. It only took once.

Creep?

Montazuma, KS, is about 30 SW of Dodge City, KS. I'm not sure that is the correct place, however.

You know, Steve, this thread could be intermingled with the cheap Chinese junk thread. No, wait, this company is in Kentucky--can't blame the Chinese for this one. I've been at this car restoration hobby for about 40 years. The problems you describe have used to happen a lot but now it is some better. My system is to talk to a live person with the order. I ask specifically if an item is in stock. If it is a made to order part (maybe like beds?) then you have a problem. I pin them down on a shipping date that you both can live with. I insist on a tracking number on that date. If the date comes and goes without a response I will contact them. If you get the runaround then your options are these: you can wait for them to get around to it or you you can cancel your order and request a refund on your card. If that does not happen in 4 or 5 days you can dispute it with your credit card company. It does take longer for a refund to show up on a credit card statement than a debit. All of this is better with credit cards--we used to have to try to get money back from a company after they have my money order. Lots easier now In your situation you should call them and offer them the choice: refund the card or they can take it up with the credit card company. Tell them that if they want their stuff back they need to send a call ticket for a pre-paid ride back to the company. These types of businesses often do not stock these items. I know that it would be unreasonable to expect them to drop everything and get your order out tomorrow. Three months is longer than I would wait especially if they told me one month. Split wood, drilled wrong, wrong items? That's on them and, in my mind, a deal breaker. If they were a reputable company they would not have sent out split wood. Go elsewhere.

Yes, rear bumpers and spare tires were options until the 70's. They were either dealer installed or aftermarket installed. There were a bunch of after market bumper designs for sale in those days.

Yes, always, since my first time (as an absentee voter) in 1968 from a bunker on my senior trip to SE Asia. I think LBJ knew he already had a built in 2.5 million Vietnam veterans whom were not impressed with him.