lonejacklarry

I'm using a '52 truck bellhousing in my '54 C1B6 in order to use a T-5. These are the mounts that mount on the side of the bellhousing with a bracket and fit another bracket attached to the frame. In between all of this are rubber pads. My question: what size bolts are utilized to hold all of this together. I have a '54 shop manual but it only has information on the later bellhousing. Thanks, in advance, for your help!

The issue with collector insurance: Make absolutely sure that your insurance states in writing "agreed value". Otherwise the inevitable hassle regarding what you think the value of the vehicle is and what the insurance company thinks. All I've dealt with say it's not a big deal and that they will work with you, etc. Make sure it is stated in writing in your policy. My insurance company specifically says something about no commercial uses i.e, Uber so I'm thinking they all would balk at hauling with a truck.

I have a Fluke 107 and it works fine for me. The auto-off is set for 20 minutes which seems a little long but there it is. The backlight goes off a lot quicker.

I use that system, as well. I'm up to July 3, 2037.

We've been fortunate so far. My wife contracted it somewhere but does not have any idea where. The interesting part is that she developed a "bad cold" that lasted three weeks several months ago. She underwent testing just recently and it was determined that she had had it somewhere along the line so maybe the "bad cold" was all there was to the deal. I got my first inoculation at a VA outreach clinic in Warrensburg, MO, t wo weeks ago. Those folks know how to run and assembly line! All in all, I was in the building 21 minutes and that included the mandatory 15 minute wait. Two more weeks for the second one. To those of you whom have lost loved ones, I am truly sorry for your losses. I am way too old to have living parents but I do remember those losses.

Thanks, Tod, that is what I needed. I guess it boils down to convenience with a smattering of ecology thrown in. I'm still in the looker stage because I want to see how long the batteries will last and what the replacement costs will be. I guess the answer there is that it will vary, too.

Infrastructure problems aside what is the dollar amount to drive 1,000 miles with either an electric vehicle or a higher mileage gasoline powered vehicle? The bottom line of usage cost is what I'm after. The environmental zealots claim that it is "nearly free" and that cannot be the case. Anyone have real numbers?

My boys bought me a steel frame creeper with an adjustable head rest. I hadn't had one in years as they are a real pain getting on one. Anyhow I was in the stage of going all around and tightening bolts and nuts under my near finished '37 Chevy. I got under the car and adjusted the headrest and tightened every visible bolt especially on the dual exhaust. Pretty neat riding around under there. I finished and pushed all the tools to the side. I, then, grabbed a muffler and gave myself a ride to the back. It went well until my forehead smacked the differential housing full blast. Make a note to lower the head rest before sailing out from under a car

To me it is not the snowflake's lack of ho ho's but it the expectation that someone else should buy and serve said ho ho's. More to the point I have a serious lack of people skills especially with snowflakes.

Thanks, Merle, that is what I needed to know.

Thanks for the suggestions. Finding a '57 for salvage has proved impossible. I guess my only unanswered question is if the contours at the rear of the '54 and '57 are the same. The only way I know of is to buy the glass and see if the contours are the same. If not I have a pricey (and worthless to me) piece of glass.

I'm really bored with mostly staying home due to the current circumstances. This morning it hit me: I wonder if I could fit (and that is after I found one) a '57 Dodge 1/2 ton wrap around rear window into a '54 Dodge 1/2 ton. I realize that a bigger hole and a bigger weatherstrip would be required. The question is whether the back of the cabs contours are the same. I don't have a '57 around here but the pictures I've found look like there is no difference. Any expert opinions out there?

I've found a good used steering box that, I hope, will work for my project. Thank you.

Anyone know of a parts list to rebuild the steering gear for a '54 C1B6? I had one ordered through Summit Racing but got refunded because they could not get any from Mares Company in Minnesota. The Mares number is 8416 but no one seems to stock them or be able to order from them. I think they only fit 54-57 1/2 ton chassis trucks. I have two for cores but no where to send them for rebuild. The usual parts dealers, I think, get them from Mares Anyone have a parts list or know a rebuilder that would do it? Thanks.

The worst, in my opinion, was the ham and limas. One had to guess which end to open. One end had a 1/2" layer of solidified grease and the other was barely edible ham and lima beans A lot of little kids got the ham and limas.

As bad as this year has been for some it is still a lot better than some years past.

Thanks!

I'm going to have a differential narrowed but I needed that measurement to get me close. Thanks very much.

That will be fine. Thanks very much.

Dimension "A" is what I need. Thanks very much.

As noted above, I need the outside to outside dimension for my '54 C1B6. I guess the baseline measurement would be from left side mating surface to the right side mating surface. An aside: once you reach 70 years old (+ or -) you should not depend on memory for measurements

I have never (about 50 years) found a machine shop that was not 6-8 weeks "out". Compounding that problem is that the reality that it will be much longer. Good shop or bad shop....it does not seem to make a difference

Which of the two is for the front? Or does the same shock absorber fit either front or rear?

Back in the "old" days bumpers and spare tires were options like radios and heaters. There were a bunch of aftermarket bumpers available that were actually sturdy enough to pull a trailer.