lonejacklarry

Thanks very much, Tod. That was exactly what I needed!

I have several manuals relating to almost every part in my C1B6. If I need a reference for any particular fastener I can readily find the part number. Therein lies the rub--is there some sort of cross reference available to give me actual fastener dimensions based on the part number?

The short (but most accurate) answer is that the truck/parts are "worth" what someone will pay for it. The buyers actually set the worth not the seller. The seller can ask whatever he/she wants for the truck/boat/ used ladder, etc. but the buyer determine the worth to him/her in the end. The previous answers were correct in that a disassembled truck is a pile of parts and, historically, that pile will not bring as much as an assembled running truck. Now all you have to do is figure out what someone will pay. Come up with a realistic number and list it. If the phone does not ring then you set the price too high. The people on this forum are great fans of old Dodge trucks. Their numbers are far less than a 60's Mustang forum, for instance, and the market reflects that.

Yes.

Yes, to this one, too.

Yes. Nothing but the frame.

As a rule, I try not to pick up things that are 300+ pounds. Now in the south I don't know.

Thanks, Ed. I wondered if that were possible. While I'm asking are those two head studs sturdy enough to lift the engine and transmission?

I got my 230 inline 6 back from the engine builder yesterday. It is buttoned up but has no accessories bolted on. My quandary? How do you attach the little engine to an engine hoist without using the head bolts? The head is on and torqued so I don't have that option. I don't have the intake or headers installed but the studs look fairly flimsy to hold half of the engine weight. There are other bolt holes on the other side but they, too, do not look very sturdy. My best guess is a nylon hoist rope in between the bottom pulley and the block and a sling type thing on a bell housing bolt. And, yes, I did a search but all I found had the head removed prior to lifting. Additionally, when the engine and transmission are put together the sling toward the back might work. The option I describe will make for a top heavy situation however. I plan on installing the engine and transmission as a complete unit before the cab is mounted so odd lifting techniques will be avoided. Any suggestions will be appreciated

Yes to all of the above. Thanks for the help.

Thank you very much for the information.

I'm putting my 230 Dodge engine together for my '54 truck. It has a Felton aluminum head which was machined to "flat" with not much removed. The manuals do not reference torque recommendations for aluminum heads-only stock heads.. The head studs, washers, and nuts are new ARP stuff. Any ideas on a torque value for my project? Thanks!

Here ya' go: https://www.iihs.org/iihs/topics/laws/minitrucks/mapminitrucksonroads

I had that happen years ago when I advertised a Yamaha VMax for sale. I had a call from a guy that said he wanted to come see the bike and that he was going to meet his friend and motorcycle mechanic at my house. The mechanic showed up right on time but the prospective buyer did not. The mechanic wanted to buy the motorcycle so we waited about an hour with no sign of the buyer. This was before cell phones so we could not call him. After an hour had elapsed I sold the bike to the mechanic who had the cash and away he went. The original buyer showed up about 3 hours later and was told what happened. He was less than impressed. I often wondered if they were still friends.

No matter who looks at the truck for you it still might not be what you had in mind. It might be fine in the view of the "looker" but that is not you. The price may be ok but it has been for sale for quite a while. The market has spoken in that it is too much money for what it is. If you think you really want it go look at it yourself. Bring a trailer and cash and be prepared to walk away. There must be a reason, or three, that the truck is still sitting.

There are no "budget conscious" options. If you re-ring it and the valves need grinding you have not accomplished anything but depleting your checkbook. If you re-ring it and do a valve job then you will still have oil pressure problems due to wear. Maybe you could find another engine that might be better. Rings, pistons, main bearings, cam bearings, rod bearings, valves, etc. Add in machine work and labor to pull the engine, rebuild the engine and reinstall the engine. Buy yourself an engine manual for that engine and shop it around. I'd be amazed if it came under $5,000. There is absolutely no sense in partially rebuilding the engine, in my opinion.

That is the answer to your problem. It will run but not well. If you want confirmation squirt a little engine oil in each cylinder and measure compression again.

Bingo! It finally dawns on me that regardless of what I read, saw, or heard my brain was not putting it together. Thanks for the help................and patience

I am a fan of replacing easy stuff while it is easy to replace. Stud removal is easiest with heat and penetrating oil. For the items that I am replacing I will always soak for 2 or 3 days then MIG weld a blob on the shaft surface. It does nothing more than throw a lot of heat in a short amount of time. I have a stud remover like Don showed above and the studs usually come right out.

OK, I just have to plead stupid. I can get as far as I understand the cam and crank at TDC on compression stroke. I also understand that the marks on the timing gears need to align with themselves But at TDC on the compression stroke. I also understand the drive groove lining up, etc. So then the distributor drop in where it is supposed to be. OK, so far, so good. Density alert: What does any of this have to do with the oil pump and why do I care if the pump is correcctly timed? It is a geared pump so why does it care how it drops in? While I'm not looking to continue to flog the dead horse, I would appreciate a little help. Thanks.

I get it that you are suggesting I should get "the book" as have others before you. I have "the book" and, quite simply, did not understand it. That is why I asked for suggestions.

In the 50's vehicles were titled by engine number as you have found. What was a common practice was that the vehicles often were titled/registered in the year it was sold. Your scenario of a '52 truck might have been sold in '53. If your previous owner thinks it is a '53 that is because that is what he was told..........and passed along the information. In Missouri, the title cane be corrected to match the ID number (you do not have a VIN as such as they came along in 1981 with 17 characters) You have a vehicle number, or engine number or body number. Anyhow if you gather the information regarding engine numbers and their sequence along with what you were given. I would start with whomever handles registration questions in your state. The highway patrol would be where I would start. Your local license office probably will tell you it cannot be done so start with the people that would know and let them guide you. I forgot to ask: is the engine number you referenced on the title as such and on the engine block? It should be on the left front of the block on the side--high on a flat area right below the bottom of the head. Make sure the title number and the engine number match before you spend any money on the truck. If they do not match, then you have a piece of paper and an untitled vehicle.

You should have been around many, many years ago when I told my mother something like "Her and me should have went" somewhere just to mess with her. I thought she was going to beat my 32 year old butt.

I'd say "is" is correct. Yes, "hours" is plural but the object is "average" which is singular.

I understand completely.