Los_Control

@DJ194950 you get it. While it is just a joke, if you met me in person my clothes keep me covered and nothing more ... the pants I caught on fire and burn a hole in ... couple more washes and trash. Thats just me. @P15-D24 may have given me a well deserved scolding ... Can you even imagine the work they have done to keep this forum available? Can you imagine the work & cost to upgrade to software @P15-D24 would endure .... they already been footing the bill for years. Simply put, they getting no solid income .... But they keep the site up because thats just what they do. Lets ask ... what does @P15-D24do for a living? I have no clue .... I will bet running the forum is not what is paying the mortgage. Will be a big job moving to new software ... will be a lot of consideration from the users if they want to keep this forum. Will be a commitment from @P15-D24 to upgrade the software. Just send me a notice 1 month ahead of time to re-new my membership..

Wonders if he the only dumb arse that saves line until replaced ... need the rear brake lines?

Here is a photo of the factory fuel line on a B1B, just gets tucked into the front cross member then over to the fuel pump. The brake line follows but fuel is closer to cross member then brake line outside. If any measurements needed let me know.

Grumpy old man point of view .... I do not care about achievements. I know you have a store with ....been a couple years since I looked ... not interested in stickers ... you gout any Brass plates to advertise to mount on the firewall? All my T-shirts have holes, do you sell them? I understand you have a donate button ... that relies on me remembering what year this is ... I talked about this before ... Today I will send you $50 to donation ... I ask you to send me a message saying I am a paid member as a personal message. Today is 5/26/2021. I then require a 30 day notice next year my membership dues are due by 5/26/2022 ... I will send them off. Does that make sense? I do not need a sticker or a button, or recognition, I just want to help keep this forum alive. It has so many advantages over other forums ... Yes it is old Dodge collectors but we have off topic and post just about anything from gardens to other cars ... It truly is a community . I really think this forum is ready for a update to allow paid members. I suspect it may take a huge software change, or maybe just a button you not pushed yet. The only goal would be to keep it alive and maybe you add some swag to impress

Thats interesting to know. We had a hail storm last week and wife car windshield got cracked maybe I scrap it Just looking on marketplace and they have this advertised for $500 clean title runs & drives burns no oil. Might be worth it to scrap it?

While I am not interested in making mine original with cloth wiring etc. My goal is to rewire with original 6 volt sized wire. Stay 6 volt but have the option to change to 12 volt in the future. What bothers me about the available wiring harness, you get way more then what you need. So you either cut 1/2 of it off or zip tie it up under the dash. Wire and quality fittings are not cheap .... I kinda suspect you can buy a harness for not much more money then buying parts individually. So I do not think or feel I am saving money by making my own harness. I feel my 49 dodge truck is so simple, I will do exactly what it needs, not more not less. I think that will look so much cleaner then a aftermarket harness. I also have the original harness to duplicate ... this helps to make my job easier. Modifications I expect to add, is a fuse box of sorts. I want to fuse the lights, heater, radio, cab lights, turn signals. There really is not that much more on a old truck.

Yeah I thought it sounded a bit funny. I am not sure where it actually needs to be. Pretty sure it does not matter. There is a rail there of oil port plugs. My gauge is using the port behind the oil filler tube. Which I think to be factory. The ones down by the starter are used normally for the add on oil filter. They bolt to the head right above them, so is a straight shot. But am sure it does not matter where you connect them. I have never read anyone talk about a special fitting with a 1/32" hole. As someone else posted a photo with the gauge having a restriction built in, I just checked one and it is 3/32" opening. I really think you need to do nothing. Something else to consider while running a new line. The original was a metal line going near the firewall, then a coupling and a rubber line going through the firewall to the gauge. You can see mine is metal, sure the rubber rotted out and owner replaced it with metal. These big torque monster engines rock back and forth and the rubber allows the line to flex. You can see metal works also. Just something to think about.

I think it might be possible there is as many answers here as there are opinions. And that really is perfect. @desoto1939 I get it, Do your homework! I personally would be concerned which NOS parts I bought off ebay. Are those 70 year old bonded brakes shoes still glued? Is that ignition coil still filled with oil and ready to work? Are those 70 year old seals soft & pliable? Normal maintenance items I would be concerned about 70 year old parts. While many parts it is a blessing to be able to even find them and use them. Yes ebay is good for certain things but not a cure all. Next is the books, I get it. Again they do not always tell you what you need. A perfect example, A few weeks ago was a question about firing order on a Dodge flathead 6. Motor's auto repair manual does not show it in Dodge, Chrysler section but @Plymouthy Adams found that if you switch to the plymouth section and can find firing order for same engine. It is just not a perfect world and noobies like myself need help navigating through it. @Plymouthy Adams I agree with you, I think most parts are made from the same factory and labeled for the buyer. @keithb7 I think this is what we really need to do to source parts for our old vehicles. Pull the seal & take it to a shop that sells seals. Let them match up the #. Got a Timken bearing?, take it to a bearing supplier and let them match it up. You also found that out with steering boxes. Same with Transmissions. They were made by different manufacturers, borg warner or whoever, for Dodge, ford, chevy but they were using easily available seals & bearings. Most but not all are still available today.

I can agree it is oil resistant. I found a old electric flat griddle at a thrift store ... can cook a slab of bacon, pancakes and eggs all at same time. The plastic grease trap was cracked & leaked .... I used JB-weld to fix it 3 years ago and is holding up great. I would not suggest it for your purpose. If I could not find the correct part. I would think a fix like a bolt with the same threads as the block & fitting. Cut it shorter to make a coupling from it, drill the bolt out. Does not need to be grade 8 hardened bolt. Possibly stainless steel if you can find threads. It is pretty soft. or just cheaper grade 5 bolts. I would pickup a few extra drill bits while you are at it. 1" coupler ... 1/2" in the block 1/2" out? might be longer then you need. Just a idea, sure you could improve on it and make it better. As a old carpenter, putty my buddy, does not belong inside engines.

Computer problems can be challenging & frustrating to figure out. especially strange key combos. Bad enough when I phat finger something, kinda got a clue . I have a cat that just plops down and lays on the keyboard to get my attention. Then my wife computer I have to maintain it. What did you do? .... I didn't do anything it just started doing it ... ? Worse is soda pop on a keyboard. But the fil did spill coffee on mil new laptop and fried it.

I watched a quick 5 min video the other day about this. Seems like it makes sense to me. But first things I would check is fuel flow. Is your cap vented and working properly? Just remove it and drive it, see if the same thing happens. What about fuel flow? Does the tank have crap in it and running the engine draws the crap to the fuel line & plugs it up? My old rusty tank did this, would run in the driveway for awhile then run out of gas. Connect to a gas can and no more problem. I like what Tony is saying in the video it makes sense, but our tanks would need modification to allow a return line.

Since it has not been used, I would guess the pedal/plunger not been moved? That needs to be cleaned ... I would think some brake clean spray & a rag or brush? These are really very simple to work on, very simple to disassemble & clean then put back together. I took my non working master cylinder apart, sat for 20 years. I soaked it in a can of carburetor cleaner, I then ran a small hone through the cylinder to clean it up. Then replaced the rubber cup in mine with a generic one the auto parts store had sitting on the shelf. Put it back together and was able to bench bleed it and remove the air ... seems to work fine ... just never finished installing the new lines. Next time I ordered something from DCM, I added a master cylinder rebuild kit ... I have it sitting on the shelf here ... in case my makeshift cleaning of the master cylinder fails I have all new parts to put in it ... You know that rust needs to be cleaned ... you want clean bare metal inside. The rust will break free, then flakes get caught in the passages of the master or the wheel cylinders. Same would happen with paint on the inside, just plug it up. While I did paint the outside, no paint inside.

Not seeing what you are ... all looks normal here ... a new page layout would require a update and forum shutdown while update was being done ... all good here.

It is funny, I was 22 years old. I belonged to the teamsters union and retreaded truck tires & punched a time clock. I use to get so much crap about that from my fellow workers ... "what you going to do, pick her up in the 1 ton truck? Damn straight I did, & we still together today. OK story time When you are 22 years old & in love, you really do not know much. I bought a piece of property. I needed a truck to work it. I then bought a 10'x50' mobile home and parked it on the property. I used the Dodge 1 ton to pull it 40 miles. The old slant 6 / 4 spd worked perfect. My Girlfriend at the time followed me in a 1972 Triumph with a Toyota dual overhead cam 5 spd trans .... she beeped the horn when she saw the tire on the trailer start to wobble ... I never knew until it passed me on the road. That old Dodge worked perfect, get over 35 mph and front end was so light it would wander, same time last 3 miles was uphill and the truck kept a steady 35 mph. That old truck was seriously overloaded. So much weight on the rear bumper the front tires barely touched the ground .... These old Dodges are tough. ... Just saying I love the older 1 tons ... they have guts.

Is that a 9' box? ... am jealous ... I do not blame you for wanting to keep the look. When I was dating my wife 35 years ago, I picked her up in a 1960 dodge 1 ton flatbed. She use to drive it grocery shopping. The T-5 is a pretty common swap on these old flatheads. Lots of info if you search for it, I have never done it myself. I can tell you there are different styles and think there is 2 different set of gear ratios for them. The other difference is where the shifter is located on the bell housing. That is important if you want the shifter in front of a bench seat or inbetween bucket seats? The swap with the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and a adapter seems do-able since it has been done many many times. You would need to figure out some sort of mount or cross member for the 1 ton, then make up a drive line. You can cut off the T5 shift lever and weld your factory shift lever to it. Would look totally original unless crawl under it. You want that look & style, I think a transmission change is what you want. The T5 is plenty strong enough for your 95 hp motor.

Just my thoughts on it, I talked to a guy who had a 3/4 ton ... not a 1 ton, but I think the widths between a 1/2 ton - 1 ton are the same? He put a early 90's chevy 1/2 ton rear end in his ... He was able to keep the 5 on 5 bolt pattern to match the front. It was 2" wider then stock so 1" on each side not terrible. I am not sure how you would keep the 6 lug wheels though. I can see a 1 ton dually axle under it. But everything would be 8 lug. I just wonder if a T5 5spd trans if the 5th gear would be enough for a little more speed using stock rear end?

I like @JBNeal solution ... I was curious and checked a extra set of gauges I have sitting in a box. The temp gauge is sitting at just over 100 & oil is pegged at 80. No clue what they would do connected. .... while the gauges installed in the truck all sit at zero. Seem to work fine ... Then I have another set That I will be replacing the working gauges in my truck with. So some seem to act funny, while others appear to be normal. Jbneal is showing a way to fix what you have. And some times it really is the best way to correct your problem. To be careful here, I want to say there is no commerce or trading allowed in the regular forums. You need to post in the classified section or send a personal message to another and keep it out of the regular forum .... so do not ask in this thread. pm or classified section! And just saying in the past, maybe 15 years ago, I wanted to give a computer chip to someone in Brazil. they pay shipping. 15 years ago with the tariffs it was over $100 usd for a item that would fit in a postal envelope. Just not worth the extra cost. Sure it is more today & not less. My whole point here, if I did give you the extra set of gauges for free, just not cost effective to ship them. & then you would still need to do same procedure to fix them. Just fix what you have if is possible.

While you could use it, how would you know it was more accurate then the one you have? If you bought a new cheap after market gauge that bolts under the dash, hook it up and set it on the floor or the seat and go for a drive. Compare it to what your original gauge is showing. Maybe yours is pretty close? At least you would know what it is .... then try the WWII and see if it is reading correct .... I think you kinda need a known working test gauge to compare your readings.

Mother nature is unforgiving. 5 years ago while sitting in WA state and searching for houses I could afford. I chose West Texas. I really like the prices, the greenery of further east, then getting into Tornado alley. I ended up with West Texas because of the weather. We still have weather problems, here seems to be hail. I think every area has there own weather issues ... WA is rain 200 days a year. 3 days ago we had a hail storm, destroyed the wife van windshield, has to be replaced but lucky is just cracked and not a zillion pieces. Then driving my daily driver truck today I see I have 2 small hits on that windshield, they can be fixed. I found some damage in the garden broken branches ... nothing important. Just glad you are safe. That fender looks like a fun project to fix, when fishing season is over

Thats ok, main thing is to not lose your head & think it needs $10k worth of paint & body work to drive it. Serious last week I built a metal shed and sprayed it Rustoleum gloss white. I probably could have done a better job with a roller & a brush ... I wanted the experience spraying the same paint I will paint my truck with. While my truck is now a mix of primer, paint, rust ... It is slowly moving forward. But in primer it looks ok also .... sorry you scuffed your paint, wonders if polishing it would bring it back? Think I have said this 100 times, In the 50's kids were using their mothers vacuum cleaners with a paint attachment to paint cars in the driveway. Today the kids do not even know to put on pants. We had some great paint jobs from the 50's. You do you, whatever paint you decide .... is part of owning a old car ....

Sorry for the bad English ... I say my step kids want stoofs ... What I mean is they want stuff. I mean they will talk sweetly then rent a House for $1200 a month ... then eviction notice is started next month when they cant pay the rent. But because they wear their pants down below their Ass & show underwear They think they deserve something. Today kids got smarter, they drop their pants below their ass, then strap a belt on. Then they walk around with the belt holding up the pants ... They use their thighs to hold up the pants. While they show off their underwear. Can you imagine a 16 year old kid from 1950 meet a 16 year old from 2020 @keithb7 sorry for going off topic. I honestly do not see the old vintage car market going more popular, when current kids cant even dress themselves. And that is for all markets, while the Dodge market is less then others.

@Wood and Steel I want to be the first to say I am just a dumb ass. I am trying to learn also. I ask here a lot and have learned a lot. So keep coming back and ask. We all learn together. My avatar shows a old truck that been sitting in the field for 20 years ... No serious rust other then surface rust from sitting in the weather ... many here would consider it a parts truck. Really has been a challenge for me. I want to say that what I have learned, these old cars used a single stage DTM paint (direct to metal) Basically is what Rustoleum is. I assume is better quality then what they used 70 years ago. But if your car is 65% original paint, Rustoleum is the equivalent to whats on there now, just better after 70 years production. The hand rubbed lacquer paints were saved for rolls royce and other custom paints. Later the 2 stage paints came into play. .... Thats not what you have, rustoleum will be fine if you can match the color ... again take a sample to napa and have them mix a color for you ... They generally use 2 stage paint, I think they can also mix single stage? A small area and a spray can may be all you need. The primer is just a cushion, it gives you a cushion to see what paint would look like, A nice base for putty before paint ... but in the factory they did not not use it. For me I understand that others use $800 worth of paint, but it is not needed. I am only saying I will not be brow beaten by others with $5k paint jobs ... Just trying to replace what the factory did. If phospho worked so far, paint it with primer then paint it. It is a old car. And let us know how it comes out a year from now. ... of course keep us updated during this time.

Age brackets sound right to me also, I will be 59 next month. Born in 62 I grew up & started driving in the 70's. My first car I drove was a 1962 rambler I bought from a customer on my newspaper route.. I then worked as a pump jockey at a gas station & bought several cars from the people I met. I never really wanted "old cars" I had a 1957 4 door chevy wagon paid $75, did some work and drove it sold it for $250 a few weeks later. Thats what I did as a hobby. My really really first car was a 57 mopar, not sure if dodge or plymouth, nice car needed a radiator & battery to run drive. Had a hemi and was 1975 during the gas crunch. I was 13 years old, I traded a old dirt bike for it, then traded the mopar for a running/driving 1961 Lincoln. I was 13 I never drove it. I think I bought, sold, traded about 75 cars by the time I got into my 20's. 1969 mustang fastback 351/auto ... paid $700 1966 elcamino 283/4sp ... was a trade for a $200 truck 1968 chevelle 327/auto ... $100 1965 impala 2 door 327/auto ... was a give me, still to young to drive it. 1969 dodge 2door 318 wedge/auto ..... $35 1967 polara 2 door, 318 wedge/ auto green exterior, white bucket seats console floor shift <--- gave to my mother ... Paid $200 At that age I was not interested in vintage cars. I never dealt with a flathead 6 mopar ... they were old & outdated ... my 49 chebby truck had a overhead valve 216. I see a dodge truck that year and just smile, wave, pass not interested. Was not til I got older, (49?) I realized the quality of the mopar flathead 6. Same platform for decades with little changes while adding some new improvements ... it just worked. Best analogy I can give. I once owned a 1972 CJ5 , 304, headers, cam edelbrock with a carter & 35" tires ... I broke that vehicle every time I took it out. Because I was stupid and abused the power. Years later I bought a 1979 toyota 4x4 truck. They were using jeep running gear at that time, 1980 they made their own. 4CYL engine, I drove that thing everywhere and never broke it. I had a lot of fun in that vehicle ... because it was under powered but would go anywhere . Today I have a 1991 chebby short bed stepside with a 350/5spd ... just when you get the rpm up and ready to grab 3rd gear. A little goose on the throttle and it breaks tires loose. I just cant get the kid out of me .... I need a dodge flathead 6 to stay out of jail My step sons have no interest in old anything ... they all broke and want brand new stoofs. Lifestyle today just no appreciation for old cars. & to be honest I do not see the trend improving in the next 30-50 years.

You see where I am going? ... finned box I made to put over it out of the cover from the old regulator Not cool, was maybe in the 1960's but nobody impressed today. Most people today would rather send these cars to the crusher .. creating a part with a 6 volt workings then a cover with a fancy ribbed ... nobody cares .... These 6volt cars worked fine as they were designed. You want to switch to 12 volt, that works fine also. ... If you already swapped to 12 volt, why are you wasting peoples time with a 6 volt motor .... Go talk to that girl you been thinking about.

You are 100% correct!. I like that ynz is sending a replacement and all should be happy. Again I have to ask, what if you had a show car? Would you put that ynz resistor on it? Honestly the mounting brackets just show poor quality. There should be a sealed cover over it ... Nothing but shrink tube between the cheap ass brackets .... There is no quality shown. @NickPickTooMy point is, in life you will run into many obstructions. There is no reason to hang onto the old motor. Yet if you want to hang on to it, You can get it to work. There is same advice for woman. If you have a few woman that are cheap like ynz, kick em to the curb. Life is too short. You do not need cheap reproductions for a car or a marriage.