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Los_Control

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Everything posted by Los_Control

  1. I am going to agree with aftermarket. I spent a few min trying to do a image search on google, also looked at what amazon offered. I could not find the logo.
  2. What I am seeing is rust on the cylinder walls .... Maybe I need glasses ... I would not want to try and turn it over myself. OFF WITH THEIR HEADS! But pics on the internet can be deceiving. I would be concerned to save the engine, old hemi are not easy to come by.
  3. Not something the average person cares about. When your water pump starts leaking, and you walk out and pump some grease in it and it stops leaking .... you are now a master mechanic. Just saying.
  4. You see my point @Sniper What I hear These engines run pretty cool. But if the path is blocked off, not so cool. My way of clearing the tube is as hillbilly as you can get. Same time I am hoping to run this engine, see what other issues pop up, get a little history with it and pull the engine and do whats needed. Get the big jobs done and just tackle the motor later. Just amazing how hard the scale is inside the tube or blocks. I used a 3/4"x1/4"x4' bar, and then a decent hammer to drive it in, I then had to drill a hole in the end of the bar and use a slide hammer to pull it out. .... Just amazing how tight the scale grows in the blocks Just think about it, I used a big hammer and broke through the scale ... I then had to create slide hammer to pull it back out, And then did the best I could to clean the sides. It actually works .... not ideal at all. I think if a guy did this, then pulled the distribution tube out, the tube would have room to collapse on itself and pull out. Otherwise, the scale is so hard and stretches across, just no way for the tube to collapse in the middle while trying to remove and the tube is a bear to remove. Just need to open it up and give it some room.
  5. I have opinions, but no facts. I am sure my engine was parked for the looong sleep, because of a overheating issue. Playing detective and broken bolts, and the fact it had no water circulation when I started it up. I came to circulation issue. I ran a flat bar in the water distribution tube cleaning out the crap ... yes pulling the tube and replacing is more correct., I pulled the soft plugs and cleaned out the block. I then filled it with vinegar and ran it for a hour or 2 at idle, get it hot and let it sit for a few weeks, I later drained and repeated the whole process. I think my approach may sound like overkill, Or a kid may just yank out the tube and replace along with the soft plugs and flushing the block and get it did in one day. End result, I can let it idle for 2 hours in the driveway, with no T-stat installed, it runs at 160 temp ... about 1.5 hours in to idle, it will start to creep up to 190, 200 temp. A quick fast idle and it drops right back to 160 ... I really think installing A 180 T-stat in it will fix this. And this is with a original water pump with a zirk fitting to install grease ... I have a brand new Gates from Rock Auto on the shelf, As long as the original is working I will leave it alone.
  6. Later models in the 60's Dodge sweptline trucks ... it was a option for the passenger side to have a arm rest. I have no clue when this was started. I think it is plausible for a 50's truck to only have a drivers side arm rest if the 60's did.
  7. Thanks it makes sense to me, If they could save 3 cents on the assembly line they would. My seat base had to come out, while grinding I thought to myself this was not a normal weld. I can imagine that mopar actually had a stick built just for them. May not be pretty but it was functional.
  8. I like to learn new things everyday, I have never heard anyone talk about converting a 12 volt alt to 6 volt. I learned something today thanks to you, I did not know when I woke up. Like any troubleshooting, I figure it is best to start at the beginning, remove the VR out of the pic by disconnecting the wires, check the alternator with a multi meter to see is producing a charge. Then next step forward to connect VR and check from there. I have no experience with what you are doing, but I worry about cheap china electrical parts like condensers & points, doa out of the box or work one time and condenser fails. You drove 10 miles and it stopped working .... get the vr out of the picture and prove the alternator is charging first.
  9. Glad you made it home without a flatbed While there are 6 volt positive ground alts available for $134 last I checked, Just saying why convert when you can buy for reasonable price? I had to walk into office to get the link and send it, then back to the shop to finish post
  10. https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_24/6-Volt-Alternators-Positive-Ground.htm
  11. Another one of those "because I do not know" ... Is it possible these are brazed welds? When I cut out the seat base from truck floor ... it was a obvious brass colored filler or metal I was cutting out. I do not think it was steel or stick weld, I guess it could be depending on rod being used. Kinda makes sense to me, same guy brazing the seat in for mass production purposes, would also be doing the welds pictured above?
  12. Giving the solenoid some more thought, electrical does some strange things with heat. In my case, the engine was not warm, cold start and 6 blocks to grocery store and shut off. T-stat just possibly opening up. The temp that day did get to 114, I said conservatively it was 105 and getting warmer last I checked. ... then you get the blacktop parking lot with all the heat just soaking it up. My 2 wheel drive truck sits pretty low .... I dunno. Once drove with father inlaw from New Mexico to Washington, the electric fuel pump was going out. Was not in the cards to get it changed, small towns and no parts available or was nobody available to change it. We had no tools to drop the tank and change the pump. Drive the car in the afternoon, the roads would heat up and the tank would get hot and the pump would quit working. Then we could let it cool off, when weather got cooler, could drive all night long, right up til 11:00-12:00 the next day when roads started heating up, it would stop working again. We always got a little warning and made it somewhere to sit and wait for things to cool. Last time we made it to a city park in southwest Oregon, hung out for 4-5 hours and made it home from there. With that experience with a older worn electric item, will work all day long at 100 degree's temp, when it reaches 101, she's going south. Why I am trying to guess how hot the blacktop parking lot would be in 110 degree temps ...still guessing the starter might actually get warmer from exhaust and a 30 min drive. Sometimes I wish I was smart enough to figure these things out ? I am changing the switch just because I should have done it the first time, this will be my 3rd time in the steering column. .... lessons learned. I think I will go ahead and drop the starter. If all wiring is fine and nothing sketchy, probably replace the starter. While I should be acting like a adult and doing adult things like work on my daily driver, I find myself working on a Ford engine and I do not even own a Ford!
  13. Too many more issues, may swap in a Flathead Ford V8.
  14. Thanks for the info, it sounds spot on. I ordered the new ignition switch, see how it goes. I now realize, the ignition switch on the chevy is 2 pieces. Going to have to eat a little crow here ... I knew at the time they were 2 pieces, I just forgot. Was when @Sniper posted a rockauto link to the switch ... the light went on. My problem at the time, the tumblers were wore out, you did not need a key to start it. I wanted to fix that, same time it had a aftermarket security system on it ... goofy thing I had to cut off of the steering column with a cut off wheel, just so stock tumbler would fit. But I did not change the actual electrical portion of the switch! I unintentionally lied. ? The body and chassis has 418k miles on it, the security system on the column must be 25+ years old ... I am thinking the actual electrical switch is original. and is time to be replaced just because. So am fine with that. Problem has not come back since, it could very well be the solenoid ... changing the switch in my free time will give me peace of mind, but does not mean the issue is fixed. Starter solenoid is almost impossible to get to ... it will require dropping the starter and working on it on the bench. To much exhaust and frame in the way. I would put a starter in it tomorrow if thought it would fix it ... I might just change it anyways, instead of waiting for it to happen again.
  15. I picture in my mind, all 23" flatheads running 3:73 gears ... while 3:55 will keep you very busy shifting Young Ed has 3:90 .... he never followed the pack anyway ... sooo
  16. Put together what ya got? It seems the 218 and 230 is same block, but the rotating assembly is different, crank, rods, flywheel. There may be some advantages to having the 230 crank and the extra bolt holes. Fluid drive trans comes into mind ... either way you go, is not a numbers matching build ... use the best parts you have and build it ... What is a 230, 5 hp more then a 218? With fabrication you can make the 25" motor fit ... Is it ready to go, or does it need rebuilt? Without looking it up, I doubt the 25" motor much more HP. Working on my truck and not driving it on the street yet. The little 218 has a lot of torque, they are not a bad engine. I laugh at mine, A few months ago I was moving my truck in the driveway ... am sitting on a 5 gallon bucket and floor is cut out, gas pedal is hung up by a piece of wire ... a little sketchy ... I by accident left a little burnout patch in my driveway ...Today I moved it, it spun the tires in the gravel ... the little 218 likes to run, was used for decades it is a good motor. Build any of them, do not be ashamed to have a 218.
  17. Good on you ... you want to eat good, step up and get er did!
  18. Sounds like a good plan, I am kicking around the idea myself. I would also consider going 12 volt and call it a upgrade for a driver, you can now use modern radio, brighter headlights, tail lights, gps ... If you do a little research, you will find it is pretty simple to convert to 12 volt, change all light bulbs for sure, I think your gauges will work fine as is ... they are mechanical and gas gauge does not care. Wiper motor if you have electric will need attention and same with heater motor. Both will work on 12 volts for awhile, just turn faster then 6 volt and eventually burn out and need replaced. But can run a 12 > 6 volt reducer to them. Radio is a problem. I remember when I was a kid, the adults just switched to 12 volt because it was easier and cheaper. Today we stick to 6 volt to stay stock. If going alternator, is no longer stock so why not go better and cheaper? .... ya going to stick your toe in the water? Or just jump in?
  19. Just curious because do not know ... is there a way to remove wiring from genny and test it with multi meter with engine running ... isolate the genny from the wiring & car?
  20. Bad photo, but you can see the connection you are concerned with, on mine it is on the same side and below the throttle cable bracket., then goes up to the carb. Yours is on top and on the other side. We also have different years, I have a late 1949 with 1950 motor/trans ... you have 1953. On your 2nd photo with a arrow to the linkage. is also a small spring ... I do not have that either. I do not know if our linkage is different, our carbs or choke is different. I am saying one is not like the other, I am not expert enough, to tell you why your arm is in a different position in then my arm.
  21. Some things to consider. B2C is a 3/4 ton with a larger 5 on 5 bolt pattern, While a 1/2 ton B2B would have the 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. If you did change the rear end with modern rear end, you would most likely be getting the smaller 5 on 4.5" wheel pattern ... with the front still larger ... would need 2 spares. Or modify the front brakes/drums to match the rear. And that is easy also. I wonder what & who places values on these trucks ...Stock and capable of 50 mph ...concourse restoration, I doubt you could sell it for more then you put into resto. Would be easy ... kinda ... to find a used 3/4 ton rear end. I think 1/2 tons were more plentiful, then people who bought trucks bought the larger 1 ton and up. New brake drums I think is $350-$400 each, would not take long to go north of $1k just for new brakes. ON THE REAR! Then lets get on the front brakes. You can swap hubs with a 1/2 ton and get correct bolt pattern so they match .. Either used or the new ones again are over $300 each. Or you could do a disk brake conversion for cheaper. You see where I am heading, you can pickup a old explorer rear end for $0-$200 do a brake job for cheap. or a jeep cherokee rear is good, I understand our flathead 6's like 3:73 gears, comfortable gear where they can run 65-70 mph, While a 3:55 seems a little tall, go a little faster on a flat surface, on hills you may lack torque and be busy shifting. Just depends on you and what you want to do with your truck ... If thinking about value, you may be better off investing in gold. If you want to drive your truck and enjoy it, you can save yourself hundreds of dollars on brakes alone and get a truck you really enjoy driving. I respect those that do a concourse restoration and preserve these old cars. In the end we are just caretakers to pass them on to the next generation.
  22. One thing I did was remove the dog house. It is not to difficult on these old trucks. Get it unbolted and 2 guys can lift it off and set aside. While everything on your list can be done with the front end left on, the amount of items on your list it may be easier faster with it out of the way. Maybe depends on how much motor work is needed. The motors sit so low, is hard to lean over the fenders and work on. As mine sits, I can still start it up and move it around as needed. Almost like having it on a engine stand to work on. But I had a different list of items to work on.
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