Los_Control

What I got done was very minimal. My heart was in the right place. Just saying with my strange disability I can do everything, just really slowly. I painted the garden shed on Thursday ... was a long day I rested Friday to prepare for Saturday ... exactly what I got done Saturday. I started it, drove it out of the carport it was backed into. Then drove it in and put on jack stands. Then I actually rolled around under it. I made choices. I am sorry, those 3 ton jack stands scare me ... going to tractor supply next week, picking up some 6 ton. I seen & saw ... I need to pull the battery mounting brackets ... while only surface rust , just need to get a grip on it. There is no question I need to pull the running boards now. I really thought at this stage could put front end back together ... Then pull the running boards & bed. I was wrong. It is a project. I will get it eventually My only goal is to drive it for the next 25 years I will be dead by then & not care. If we are going to be safe, lets not do stupid things. This is what I did while I was tired.

I would say a judgement call, no right or wrong answer. While probably may be fine, would be a chance gasket leaks after. Maybe run a compression check on the nearest cylinders for reference. Fix the bolt then after a few days or hours drive time, check compression again. You would at least know if you got lucky or not. Have you tried re-torquing the head bolts?

I worked hard to get my chores done to free up the day. Now am too pooped to work on the truck Will get something done ... my goal is to mount the splash pans so I can install the fenders. Which means installing the new battery tray I made, then remove & paint that area. Will be blocked or hard to get at with lower pans installed. I did pour concrete and bought a creeper so can scoot around under there and do this work ... first I have to start & move the truck from carport so can sweep away the winters dirt so the creeper will roll. Ok I got it turned around and concrete swept ... now for jack stands.

Simply amazing & what a great trip. I can tell stories of my youth, would not match yours.

So I am sure many have a bad feeling about LED ... I am sure some are not too bad ... while others are just ridiculous

I personally would like to take my ham fist & beat the crap out of the face of those with led lights. yeah I get it, you have great lighting .... the guy driving on the highway opposing you is blinded. I just do not get it ... yes this is 2021 and we have great lighting ... same time we need some appreciation for the others on the road ... Not into a "my lights are brighter then your lights" Some new models of cars on the road I would like to take a D9 cat & push them off the road. So I get it, yeah led is the newest thing ... I really would not want to blind my fellow traveler with them.

Early in the project, we have great ideas. Sometimes we think going 1 way is good. While you may decide you really would like to go a different direction. You are not locked into any position.

Is correct I fear. I say this because my Brother retired and built himself one of those fake log cabins in the woods. A real house but it has the 1/2 sawn logs for siding. During the covid they stopped working on it. He lives South of Seattle. The deal was using Sikkens with cetolD to protect the raw wood ... They were 1/2 way done and today the product is not available? They finished the job with something different. Today the product is not even available in Washington. Just saying it is not just car paint, but oils for wood also.

I have some communication on the Tach somewhere, can not find it. He made a youtube video That showed and explained the workings of it. With it connected to a old flathead on a run stand. I only know to contact them through the H.A.M.B. or the Ford Barn through a personal message. I am guessing, iirc the kit was $100 or a little more. But does not include the tach. You can get a tach from autzone or spend a few $$ on a vintage refurbished tach ... your choice. Here is the condenser I bought from them ... I think is quality work.

Not sure how it works on dwell, but a trick as a example for a timing light. Set a 12 volt battery near and connect the timing light power to 12 volt, the plug wire to your engine. There is a gentleman @Tubman That makes a kit to convert a 12 volt Tach to a 6 volt + ground. This means you supply your favorite 1960's tach and connect it with his kit ... If you wanted a tach in your car. Any 12 volt tach works. Which is kinda off topic for your question, because not a tool, but is a fully functional tach installed .... I guess you could just connect the wires and hold the tach in your hand like a tool then store it in your tool box? Just saying option is available, I bought a condenser he also makes, is Brass and mounts outside distributor, quality work. I would like the tach later. Keeping track of rpm on the old flatheads is key while driving.

Discussing paint is like discussing which oil to run in your engine For @Wood and Steelpost ... I am curious what kind of paint is on the car? Is it original or a repaint. what kind of paint was used if a repaint? Single stage or 2 stage? Back in the day these cars were made, they were spraying enamel paint direct to metal with no primer ... how many years did it last? Not sure when the epoxy primers & sealers were introduced to the car market. In the 1950's 16 year old kids were using their mothers electrolux vacuum cleaner to paint cars in the driveway .... and it worked fine. Simply does not take a rocket scientist to paint. Does require a scientist to make sense of all the mumbo jumbo of all the modern paints and primers to go with it. What I would hate to see is @Wood and Steelto get discouraged over fixing what could be a simple repair in the driveway on a weekend because of not understanding all the modern products. A 4" grinder with 36 grit paper would remove the bondo showed in a few minutes. What did the body shop do to prep for the bondo? Did they drill holes and pull the dent ... then leave the holes open? No sealer will work if bondo is getting water from the backside .... The bodyshop returned a inferior product, why the owner is re-doing it. They wanted to repaint the whole car because they could not color match paint .... even though a repaint was not wanted. I just have no faith in the quality of the body shops work. Did they even try to hammer & dolly the dent out .... how thick is the bondo? Lots of questions here. I would like them to grind out the bondo, post pics and then get advise from here on how to repair it. As far as primers go, yes they are not designed to be a finish coat. My only experience is knowing people who had the brown with red oxide primer, they had them for years with no problems ... Kenny had a 1962 falcon in the 1970's All through school he had that car in brown primer they would touch it up from time to time. I watch JonathanW videos, he has several cars in primer, the comments are the same as here it will rust ... He says he has used the brown primer with the red oxide in it for years and not had a issue. Been watching him for over 2 years. I sprayed the rustoleum on my truck cab forward last summer. It sat outside through the winter and one time had 3" of snow on it. I pressure washed it 2 days ago and it looks great. My Uncle painter used gray primer then quit. In a couple years the rust was through the primer and 2 cars had to be brought back to metal to be saved Lets quit trying to scare the guy out of fixing their car.

The whole thing ended up in a mess. I accept Tony explanation of it in a video he just released yesterday . Tony job was to port the heads, he spent 6 hours doing this ... Then to assemble the heads and set up the new cam. the other clowns were to put the lower end together ... They were to supply all parts, engine, bearings,gaskets. I believe the block they had needed machine work so tony had to provide a block. They brought the wrong bearings for the crank they provided. And then later they talked crap about Tony. Which is having affect on Tony now, another media production is talking bad because what they said. I was watching parts of the live video of the assembly, Tony was getting frustrated with them. He had to send parts back for them to clean. rocker arm assembly with dirty oil galleries. He simply had to do more of the job then was to be his share. The other team was in over their head. With 2 guys working on the lower end, they should have been done in maybe 6 hours also? Same time Tony got done with the heads? The build took 14 hours total because it was all dropped in utg lap. The whole time Nick & Tony were keeping in touch & Nick was watching. Is why Tony sent the bag of floor dry with the engine. May have worked out different if Tony supplied the engine & the parts. It was suppose to be a team effort here. Obvious Tony is still getting grief from the build, why he released this video yesterday.

Sometimes I speak out of turn with little knowledge. I did suggest acid. And it will work to remove the surface rust in Minutes. Here is a photo of a experiment, a future project & the paint was solid brown surface rust just on the hood in this area. I had a squirt bottle with ospho in it, wetted the area walked to the shop and grabbed a clean rag and walked back & wiped it off. Took about 1 minute total time. You can see the film left on it. If this was bare metal would protect it from rust til washed off. When washed off you need to seal it with primer right away. So this will remove your rust easily .... But will not fix your problem. As suggested above, the bondo acts like a sponge and collects moisture. I would say digging out the bondo and start fresh is best answer. Panel is already rusting under the bondo & spreading out to where you can see it. I was thinking this morning, maybe a guy could use a heat gun on the back of the panel and dry all the moisture out before you prime it. The damage is probably already started, meaning the panel is rusting under the bondo. If you remove rust you can see, it will still show up later 6 months down the road. Of course they said that, is how they put food on their table ... selling work. A good painter can match paint .... the rest depend on Napa auto parts. If you can bring in a small painted part to napa, they can color match the paint for you and sell quart, gallon or even spray cans. Knowing the situation, me being a thrifty guy (broke living on a fixed income ) Why not put it back together as is? I see a fender & wonder how much is disassembled? I would remove the seen rust, use rattle can of rusty metal red oxide primer & paint all of the bare metal. And drive it. You will know soon if the rust is going to come back. & will only be in the bondo area. A future weekend project you can remove the bondo, seal the metal, fix the dent & color match the paint yourself. & still enjoy the car?

I thought this was funny, would share. Been working on other projects get them out of the way to clear up time for iwoytd. I think I want to say today ...Because of my ability & not my dis-ability ... just kinda cruising around the shop doing nothing and did spend 10 min here & soak with soap then 10 min there & pressure wash the truck ... get it clean. Let it dry a few days before I work on it. Wife jumped my arse ... Why you working on the truck today instead let your legs recover? IWOTD is not for 6 days yet! I just got a laugh because my wife knows when iwoytd is more then I do. I sure love that girl!

I am really surprised this year .... Maybe the new location ... maybe my activity in the area building the barn? The birds have not bothered my plants. My tomatoes are past flowering and fruit now ... Last year birds ate every flower off every plant. This little barn was a lot of work to me, but will be a great help while pretending to be a gardener. To move forward I need to finish paint, fence off the garden area to keep the dogs out. I will run water to it. Also electricity. I have way to many galvy panels left over. I will be adding compost bins, raised beds ... sitting area. Not sure the job will ever end in 100 years.

1 tons with a pickup bed are cool, they are 9' long & pretty rare. Most 1 ton that era were flat beds or commercial style dump or box or whatever. In a chance yours has a box & running boards to fit. They are rare as hens teeth. The wheel photo you showed was not a dually. Pretty sure the option for duals was available & then they had wider rear fenders on the rear. Family has a 9' pickup box 1 ton dualy International truck. I am sure all Ford, Dodge, Chebby offered this option. But guessing a single wheel 1 ton may most likely be a full fender 9' bed truck? You got us guessing, I am just excited for you

That is a very common rear end to swap into these trucks, the width is good and a variety of gear choices .... same with the Jeep Cherokee rear ends. The front axle may be a bit of a challenge. to get the same 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern as the 8.8 What little I know about the 1/2 & 3/4 ton trucks, the 1/2 has 4.5" bolt pattern with 10" brake drums, the 3/4 is 5 on 5" bolt pattern with 11" brake drums. Then there are a few other items like wheel base, springs etc... Someone suggest it may be a 3/4 ton with those wheels and they may be right, I am guessing at least a 1 ton with heavy duty drums. Or a heavy duty 3/4 ton? Depending what you want to do with the truck, the 8.8 would be straight forward, then swap in disk brakes on the front & have good drive-ability matching bolt pattern all around. With your heavy duty drums, I suspect the disk brake kits available may use smaller wheel bearings. You may need to do some figuring there to see whats going on. Or swap in a axle from a 1/2 ton and work with it. You may want to stay stock, then finding brake drums, shoes , wheels are not always easy either. You may be lucky and find yours in good condition.

Really not much info there, need photos. The 6 lug could be a 49 chebby or a 1990 chebby, anything inbetween or a Dodge Dakota. I think some mazda trucks also used 6 lug along with Ford ranger. I had a 67 Datsun truck with 6 lug ... So 6 lug tells nothing. Pics of the interior, front grille would help tell the year of the body. I am now curious, did some of the 1 ton dodge trucks use 6 lug wheels? or were they all 5 lug like I suspect but not sure.

Flathead Ford V8?

After a lot of reading .... I hate to bring it up, I have a disability and sometimes all I can do for days or weeks is sit & read, watch videos. So I have a lot of book learning without actual real life experience. Reading a how to from a known Hot Rodder who in real life works in a modern day automotive electrical repair shop. Using this type of connector ... quality and thickness will vary depending on point of purchase. You can tin the wire, crimp it, then solder it, then shrink tube over it. You end up with a quality connection. This is how I am building my wire harness.

First step, I doubt you will find after market parts for a mopar of this year. While a 3:73 gear was not uncommon in the 50's Not sure about the 30's. Also have no ideas between the changes of a 1930's - 1950's rear end. There are some changes in the axle splines over the years ... gotta watch that. Then when you get preferred gear ratio .... The steering is loose and brakes do not grab. These cars were not built for modern speeds. If you want to go faster you may want to replace rear axle, front brakes and transmission? Instead of searching for a better "old axle"

@Plymouthy Adams you having fun ... Think first time I tried to make plug wires ... was a disaster . I was 17 years old and working on a 60's car .... I just bought pre-made wires after that. Years later I see the advantage to making our own wires. But again, if you not having fun doing it ... why bother?

You have a honest good question. The answer is not clear. Typically people are using high dollar paint to restore these vehicles ... I am fine with that. There will be no talk about Rustoleum paint. I am personally in your corner, I am not going high dollar on paint. I am using Rustoleum paint from tractor supply. I am fine with it. I honestly feel the paint is as good or better when the cars were produced. ... Yes I know we have better paints today. But the original paint lasted a satisfactory time period for me ... yes the newer paint will last longer .... sorry to say this, thats the next owners job & not mine. My job is to drive it. So does the rusty primer work? ... No clue, but by the time it fails I probably wont care. If that makes any sense. You will not get a honest answer here about Rustoleum primer because it will all be use epoxy primer. use this or that paint. I am using Rustoleum primer and also the paint. If I need to sand something off and repair, just not a big deal. Just use what you want ... I have a strong opinion and you should do what works for you. Mine is a driver quality truck ... you care about shows, you may not want to go Rustoleum.

After looking at the side view one more time, I think the sides are where they should be. The middle should also sit proud. The hood actually sits proud of the cowl, the sides match the hood and middle is not where it should be. Possibly even the sides need to come up a bit more. When I add the hood sides and fender welting. Should the vent lid match the hood and not be flush with the cowl?

I do not know if this will help any at all ... I will try to clarify my original opinion, while you may expect it to be a straightforward solution to this, do not be surprised it is a pia. In the photo, you can see there is a crown in the center as I suspected there was. While mine is pretty flush in the middle with the body, the ends are sitting proud of the body. Mine has never been removed and factory. Just my opinion, I think my ends are bent up & middle pulled down ... not much but just a little to make the ends sit proud. Same time they were not really concerned about body panel fitment back then, maybe it is how it came? Something else to think about. The cowl vent has a rubber drain line connected to it and the hose is routed through the firewall to drain ... the vent frame is actually a gutter like on your house, to collect water and drain it away. What did the factory expect to seal with a gasket. Were they counting on the drain system to carry away the water? were they trying to seal out air? Earlier when I said my gasket failed ... what I should have said is the rubber drain line failed. Just rotted off under the dash. So it just drained inside the cab. While you are stewing on it, remember it was a imperfect system to begin with, the body fitment was not a priority. The gutter drain system was suppose to take care of the water, the gasket to seal off wind noise. I can tell you are going first class all the way, sometimes you just have to settle for making it better and not perfect.