Los_Control

Sadly that kind of thinking will send you to the funny farm. I remember when Grandpa filled all his gas tanks in his junk yard. What a mess for others to clear out .. That was in the 70's ... Gas has a shelf life. I personally steer clear of any price calculations I spend on my project truck ... not really what it is about ... I would go crazy if I kept track of monies spent on it. Cheapest I remember gas was 36 cents a gallon ... it quickly jumped over a dollar and never went back down. Storing todays crap gas is the least favorite thing I have on my to-do list.

Then remember it was a 2 door car and not 4 doors? Holy crap is all that comes to mind.

Different era where one was always trying to compete against the other. I honestly think it was a total waste of time ... really interesting how the competition was going at the time.

Yeah that is pretty crazy. I want to say California is expecting the same thing. They do not clean up the forest and is dry and it takes off. Here we are very concerned with grass fires in West Texas. It just takes a spark, then the side of the freeway or whatever is taking off. I actually started a grass fire in Eastern Washington once. I was using a burning barrel and had a garden hose close. Sparks would jump out and start a fire then I would stomp them out. I got tired of that and went to turn the garden hose on ... found out the hose bib was plugged and no water coming from here... Grass fires are bad ... fire department came and just watched as the neighbors yard burned. I had 3 trucks I had to install a battery in and move them ... At this point it was more like a controlled burn. I had paint blistered as the trucks were starting to catch fire. I am no fireman. I have to wonder the thought process. This is natural vegetation, it will start on fire when ignited. They want to keep it controlled ... otherwise let it burn. While I was in a panic attack at the time. The next year the grass grew in better and greener then the previous. Here in Texas we are constantly fighting grass fires. Car accident on the freeway and get a spark. In Canada you do not get this weather .... you do not clean up the dry grass or forest floor. My brother called me the other day and was 110 F south of Tacoma. He retired and sold his last house with AC. His new house he never bothered to install AC ... Just not worth the bother .... then this year ?

https://jalopnik.com/chrysler-once-offered-the-classiest-and-least-expected-1847205277

A little hokey but works. I would lay plywood down in a gravel driveway. Then pipe and plywood to roll it with. set the transmission on the rolling plywood. Then play jenga and start adding blocks under the trans to get the height you need, Be safe! then set the correct angle to match the motor. Takes time. When you finally get exactly what you want, just roll it into place. You would not want to get it close then try to manhandle it in the rest of the way .... you might lose it all and drop it. You really need to be patient and get it spot on and then just roll it in. Did the C6 in my Ford 1 ton a few years ago like this, many years ago the 4 spd in my 1960 Dodge 1 ton. Pretty sure I might cry if I try to remember how I did the trans/transfer case in the CJ5 ? ? ?

Wash up time Yeah that was yesterday when I took my wife to town .... sadly was more about me then my car ?

I told this story before, I was 16 or 17 and working at a tire store in Las Vegas, had my own trailer in a trailer park and a neighbor we worked together at the shop. We rode to work together. I was young and stupid then He was a biker, 1966 shovel head and looked the part. His wife was drunk & pissed one day and told me the story. They lived in southern California, he rode his motorcycle to the bars and claimed he was a Hells Angel member ... HA heard about this and gave him exactly 24 hours to get out of the state of California. He had a pretty cool 1957 1/2 ton chevy with a factory automatic transmission and a bad rod bearing. He bought a new bearing, replaced it and shimmed it while cleaning up the crank ... loaded his motorcycle, wife and whatever they could fit in a trailer and left the state. Within 24 hours. I just like the story because the guy is a idiot and did idiot things. I have a special place in my heart for the truck. Last I heard he loaded the trailer and went back to Maryland from Nevada. Made it as far as West Virginia and the rear end went out ... shimmed up motor was still running fine. I can imagine how many farmers or people during the depression when they were making the doodle bugs out of trucks to farm the land.... they did what they had to. Was it the best idea? To be honest I want to say a dang good idea. Why do expensive time consuming machine work, when you can get another few years out of a cheap fix overnight and have the engine running & back to work the next day. Also at this time, probably cheaper to buy a complete running used engine then to restore a old one. Today we would frown on this as we are trying to restore them ... back then it was just a way to get further down the road.

Years ago my buddy used a beer can to shim his bearing. 57 cheby with the 216 engine. Ran fine for years afterwards. Brass seems like a better option .... I have doubts it is oem. Looks like true hackery at it's finest to me.

I hear ya! I know it has been over 20 years since she drove a stick. She has bad knees & severe arthritis in the hands. I really thought it would be rough on her physically to drive the manual transmission today. So she never tried in last 4 years. She drove it like a pro today ... though on the way home from our 1 hour drive. She moved her right hand from the shifter and was shaking it. She wont admit it, but she was in pain. But she is happy she can drive the truck to town as needed.

I am not going to pick any song, I always enjoyed Johnny Cash. I agree with @MackTheFinger Ol Kris was a one hit wonder ... but later they actually seem good. Took a few years to get use to Kris. They actually did ok singing others music. Much of it was not there's. A lot of songs reproduced from clowns where the original players did a great job.

Was a adventure letting the wife drive the truck .... about as exciting as watching paint dry. I remember 30+ years ago she drove my 1960 Dodge 1 ton flatbed ... also the 1961 1/2 ton truck ... also the 1972 CJ5, The Triumph spitfire... Datsun ... She drove my 1991 cheby like a pro. Within minutes she was up shifting & down shifting like a pro ... Now she is ready to take my truck to Albuquerque to visit the daughter. Dang! I better get her car fixed before she takes over mine ?

@JBNeal Thanks that is a good tip before I use the tool ... I also like @Snipermethod .... It seems like basic common sense. The tip about having grease on the spring and things failing .... Good solid tip to keep in the back of my mind while working on this. I think if I had a $500 snap on spring compressor, probably not a issue. Since I bought a $30 compressor you never know what might happen. It should be delivered Thursday afternoon, will take a look at it then and start on struts Friday. I may not use the new tool. Right now I finally got the gas tank out this morning and realize rockauto sent me the wrong fuel pump. Incredible they offer 4 fuel pumps for the model/year ... The 2 cheap $30 pumps will work. The 2 Good $90 pumps offered are for a different vehicle. Working on a return for rockauto now, but trying to learn more about it ... possibly I need to order a conversion kit to go with it .... Fuel pump is on hold. Delphi fuel pumps make many OEM pumps and tested to work 150k miles ... I do not want to ever replace this pump again. I want a good one... but it needs to fit. Yesterday had to order a new rubber bung for filler neck ... I have time before can install tank anyways. On a good note, What started this thread was the intermittent electrical issue with the transmission. I was wondering if any old mopar guys ran across this before. Almost positive it is a short or loose connection because it works perfect 90% of the time til it does not .... let it sit and restart and it works again. Showing a picture of the ECU (computer for trans) You notice the wiring harness has a bolt in the center to attach & keep wiring tight. Just showing because is exactly the same on the shift solenoid, other end of the harness. The center bolt to hold the wiring is loose as a goose on the transmission side. Couple more threads and it would have fallen out. Reach down and wiggle the harness, will lift off 1/4" from solenoid controller. I certainly found a loose connection. May or may not be the issue, but confident I will fix this transmission problem. No more work on the van today ... going to go in and take a shower and clean clothes ... wife been wanting a driving lesson on my chevy truck and the manual trans. Good cool afternoon to go for a drive.

Sounds correct to me. The arm always has some pressure on it. Depending on location of the cam will be more or less but always some. I would have to dig out a pump, but am sure there is more then 1/4" stroke ... Push harder?

Acid is really cool, learned that when I was 16 years old .... While messing with my truck, sandblasting is not a option. So I have been playing with different acids to help me with it @Plymouthy Adams has helped me a lot with my journey using acid to remove rust. I have learned that their is a time and place for different acids. Here is a image showing what muriatic acid can do for a rusty fender. Look at my thumbnail image for what I started with, then the results. It works great, but will instantly start to flash rust if not neutralized properly. If used in the garage in a small bowl on the bench, fumes will flash rust your tools and other metal parts within 10' of the small bowl. While using it on your vehicle, it will flash rust parts you never touched. .... Choke, throttle cables, hinges etc... I used it on a headlight switch once and it melted the pot metal ... Thanks to another member here that helped me with that. I use muriatic only with metal on saw horses in the back yard and far away from everything else. And it is killer on the lungs if you breathe it in. Ospho is a good acid also, not as strong as the muriatic ... it has a special feature where it just turns rust into a paintable black primer .... spray it on your rusty undercariage and later paint it ... is all lumpy & bumpy, but it has it's place to be used. But it kills the rust and a great place to use it is inside of doors where you cant reach. Just spray it in and will neutralize the rust, keep it from spreading. I would also use it on metal fence or buildings before painting ... not a prime automotive finish. Phosphoric acid I think is the key ingredient to all of them. A gallon of 85% phosphoric is close to $50 plus shipping. Is also food grade and used in restaurants to clean rusty stainless steel appliances. Here is a photo with 85% phosphoric acid on the bed of my truck ... it looks terrible. The white stains & stripes is actually the 85% phosphoric acid protecting the bare metal from rust, while the rusty areas is where the acid was thin and washed off. A pressure washer actually removes it nicely, but until ready for paint am better off to leave it alone. And next time I will dilute the acid with water before applying. ... For giggles I poured some in my toilette. I have a high end tall boy elongated toilette in my bathroom ... house has hard water and sat for sale for 2 years. I poured a 1/2 cup of phosphoric acid in it, let it sit for 20 min and cleaned the toilette ... looks like brand new. The hard water stains just washed away. The acids all have a use ... I would be careful suggesting one over another. ... They all have their pitfalls also.

Lower mounting bolt is a cam and the strut hole is oblong. Is part of the front end alignment. So you loosen the top bolt then you rotate lower bolt to adjust the wheel in & out for alignment. If I mark it and use 2 wrenches to hold & install it exactly where it was removed .... technically it wont need a new alignment ... Or at least it will be close enough can drive it to a shop to get it aligned. Other cars may be different ... just what my car has. @sniper that makes sense also. I still may do that. I have it supported on jack stands with suspension hanging. I plan to support the rotors/axles with the floor jack while removing strut. Axles were replaced along with transmission 30k+ miles ago and do not want to add stress to them hanging with no support. "With air tools maybe a half hour taking your time. " I have to thank you for the laugh I have air tools. I worked 3 days and got the fuel tank lowered sitting on the jack, hoses & wires disconnected, took a day off and today I need to get it disconnected from the fill tube. Had to do grocery shopping also today and brother called we talked for 2 hours on the phone. I may get it loose from the car today. Still a lil less then 1/2 tank of gas in it ... that will be another day to drain it & get it on the table to work on... day 6? Then will need to replace the fuel pump & re-install the tank. When retired we do not get in a hurry to do anything

SHHHH! my wife might hear that and ask why I bought another tool ? ? ? I watched that, was curious how they removed the spring in the first place. So I googled some more and watched a few more vids. One guy used a floor jack under the rotor and removed the bolts for lower control arm and lowered jack to release spring ... too much work. Another kid actually stood right over the top of it with a impact gun .... very very slowly backed off the nut using his weight on top of the spring. I thought I was watching a suspense movie and the ambulance crew was on the way for the next scene. Surprisingly the spring popped up about a inch or so. Kinda disappointing ending of the movie So I see that slowly removing the nut and using your weight works, He said if you just zipped off the nut quickly the spring would fly 50'. He also used same method to re-install it. He showed a rented spring compressor, he thought it was crap and easier to do it his way. What I see with people using this technique, They are not clocking the spring and top hat. I dunno maybe is not as important as I thought ... also seems they were not marking the alignment bolt. The other thing is they were on the floor wrestling with them. I like the idea of putting it in the vice to hold it for me ... while standing up, easier on my back. Am standing safely to the side. Easy to clock and put back exactly as you found it. I see it can be done without. Never know someday I may want to do some front end work on my daily driver truck and need the tool there also.

They work very well for what they are designed for. They are not designed to be rolling up and down ramps. When I bought mine I planned to beef up mine as a project, thicker gussets, wider axles stronger wheels .... I decided to just leave it alone. I do have the bracing in the front because my engine is stuck. I put a breaker bar and 3' of pipe on it and try to turn the engine over. I am not worried about the stand breaking, I am worried about the cast iron of the engine breaking. If it was being assembled, I would not have the bracing under it as I would be rotating the engine while working on it. People have let engines sit for decades on a stand with no bracing & no issues .... Since I am abusing mine with a 3' breaker bar, I use bracing. Since I will need the bracing again I just leave it in place. You once said the engine was sitting on a pallet. A photo to show you exactly what I used to roll the V8 engine 3' to a corner. You can do the same thing with the pallet if you can get something flat under it. I just used heavy pvc pipe because it was in the corner and scrap. Just suggesting if you can get the uhaul in front of the garage you can roll it out of the uhaul, you know it will get high centered going down the ramp ... deal with it. Get it on the garage floor and you can roll it anywhere you need it. More pipe the better. Just another idea on how you can move it. If you had a crane, you should be able to just grab the engine from the trailer and set it on the garage floor and roll it.

Yes you are correct. While I have never changed them before ... Learning the difference. Would certainly be easier to buy them with new coil springs. My old ones are in good condition. No rust, tires wore even with no cupping ... I feel confident re-using the old springs. With youtube dummies like me can change them .... famous last words. Mark the cam alignment bolt clock the springs Mount the strut in vice and compress spring evenly till will rotate freely on strut 6 point 10mm with a 13/16" socket to remove mounting bolt. Transfer parts to new strut, 75 foot pounds torque on mounting bolt Release spring compressor evenly while lining up the clock marks. re-install strut on car, lining up lower cam bolt. 65 pounds torque + 1/4 turn on lower bolts, 21 pounds on upper bolts. What I remember watching the video, Hoping the rubber isolaters will be reusable. Lower looks fair, top being protected should be better. They suggested renting the tool from autozone, 1 hour drive to pick it up and again to return it ... I ordered this from ebay yesterday for $30. Naturally we need to be safe in everything we do. Like not stand in line of fire if spring under compression comes loose.

This vid is pretty sharp on electrical for the Model A, The distributors are just a bit different then our cars while they work the same.

I try not to fart when the wind is blowing south Yeah Kennewick, Finnely is a place I have spent some time ... Along with West Richland ... It does get hot there in the summer, also gets cold in the winter. I sure loved fishing on the river

OOOh bad memories ... While learning some things I rebuilt my carb .... I messed up and mixed the 2 different sized balls. Catching my mistake, I actually had to use a map gas torch to heat up the carb body to get the small ball to release from the big hole. Just saying, when I mixed the 2 different sized balls up. I needed heat to expand the carb body to release the little ball. Then chase it across the floor when it did release. Then re-install in correct hole. Just saying if your carb is working, it may not be the actual bearings that drop in and fit the hole. I suspect the carb would not work at all if the balls are swapped. Just what I found.

Might save a life!

Yeah incredible weather temps for the area. Being born in Tacoma and raised in the area, anything over 80F was ridiculous. The humidity just killed you. Here in west TX has been over 100F for a few weeks .... Could not sleep so got out of bed at 3:00am this morning and watched a old black & white cowboy movie. Checked the temps and was 82f then ... My AC was working fine. 7 day forecast calls for rain and in the 80's-low 90's .... nice if true, just never seems to rain here when they say it will. 108F is nothing here in dry west tx, is something else in areas that do not get this temp ... life threatening to those with no AC and simply never needed in past. I wish you all well and take care of yourself s.

Sounds like a good deal to me ... that brand always seems to hold a high revalue ... assuming it will do what you need congrats!