Los_Control

I can add that I bought some of those fittings for my truck from a local auto parts store. My original brass T coming from the Master Cylinder iirc was really a 4 way with 5/16" going in & 1/4" going out the other 3 outlets. They did not have the 4 way, but I bought 2 brass T with 5/16" threads, then I used reducers that went from 5/16" threads to 1/4" threads. They look a lot like the brass fitting above in photo, just different thread size. ..... Also the adapters were steel & not brass, but correct threads for the job. Thats how I got around my brake lines, by going to T instead of 4 way & using adapters to get the correct size. The vent line on rear end would probably be best to replace with good used. Possible you could tap it out to larger size & use a reducer to drop it back to the needed 1/4" ... correct thread pitch is important when tapping out.

Trying to get a title in some states can be a nightmare. I have titled 1 car here in Texas before, it is pretty painless. Some people might think sharing the Vermont title process is a way to steal a car .... Is not true. But it is a way to get a title legally where is almost impossible otherwise. This kid in Tennessee used it and explains the process pretty well. He works as a paralegal for a lawyer ... pretty sharp with the paperwork. Also important to understand you do not actually get a title. Vermont vehicles over X amount of years do not get a title. They issue a registration & that is considered your title in Vermont .... The way I understand it. They have no problems issuing out of state registrations. they collect the tax revenue from it. They are well aware you are registering a vehicle that has been parked for many years. They do run a check on the vin to see if it is stolen or on any computers ... they will refuse if it is. Anyways you complete the process, they send you registration, plates, tags. You are legal to drive anywhere with the car. As always your state allows 30 days or whatever to transfer out of state vehicles to your address. When you go to DMV with your Vermont plates & registration to transfer it to your current address .... They keep or destroy the Vermont Registration & issue you a new one. Since the Vermont registration is a legal title in Vermont, Your state now will issue you a legal replacement title. Since they are taking your existing legal title. IMHO, DMV & state license fees are often convoluted to create more tax revenue. They create a never ending process just to keep collecting fees. They can easily check the VIN & run it through the computer ... thats not enough tax revenue for them. Vermont knows this & is a small state with low taxpayers .... They created the Vermont loophole, they will gladly checkout your VIN & register your car to get a share of the tax $$. Nothing illegal about it. If more states did this, less states would take advantage of you. I let my drivers license expire when I was sick for a few years. Washington state wanted $150 to start the process, + take a $100 drivers education course ... then they could give me an idea how much more $$ it would cost me. I moved to Texas instead. Took a written & driving test, paid $25 fee and was finished. .... Every state is different.

bacelaw photo

While many things change including the brakes .... many things stay the same. Here is a photo of a 1949 truck. The lines are 5/16" coming out of the master cylinder into a T that feeds 1/4" lines to all 4 wheel cylinders. I just feel if your woody wagon has 10" drums, master cylinder & brake lines would be the same. .... I could be wrong. Here is how they are routed on a 1949 truck.

You want to look at the draft tube .... whats coming out there? .... Just let it run it looks fine. When you put oil in the cylinders it gets pushed out into the exhaust pipe. One forum member ran so much oil through the engine into the muffler, took 2 hours driving to clear it out. Also metal will absorb moisture from the air ... this includes your engine block that has been stored for 40 years. You will get white steam from the engine as it warms up. I recently bought a used engine that sat for 8 years. Took 1 hour before all the white steam...smoke went away from the tail pipe. JMHO, I would let the engine clear itself, then I would dump the oil & add fresh .... treating it like a "break in oil" What is coming from your road draft tube imho is what you should be concerned about ... If your rings were leaky you would get a lot of blue smoke from the tube. A modern PCV system eliminates the road draft tube and runs the stoofs back through the tail pipe. Your road draft tube will tell you the story on your engine.

I was just thinking this thread started 7 pages ago with a dead battery @MarcDeSoto One thing I'm not clear on .... Is your cooling system operational? Can you let the engine get up to operating temperature & run for awhile? I have no experience with starting up a old school rebuild. I know modern rings will seal almost immediately. While I think older cast iron rings will need some time to seat. I think it is good to get the bugs worked out & know it runs. Now If it was my rebuilt engine, I would next want to start it & run it for 45 miniutes-1 hour? Give it time to heat up, gaskets, seals,rings to get set in place. I would try to avoid a bunch of 2 or 5 minute runs before the engine has had time to get settled in. The poor acceleration sounds like a bad accelerator pump. Or it could be the rings are not set, you are a little low on compression, burning some oil .... Too early to troubleshoot yet. Is even better if you can take the car out & drive it to break in the engine proper. At least get a cooling system working on it and let it go through some heat cycles before troubleshooting little issues. My 2 cents.

Seems we are always going in circles

Pretty sure it was a wise man who once said, speed kills ... drive a flathead & live forever.

You are correct Merle, I did not think it through. The brake pedal rotates on the shaft. While the clutch pedal rotates the shaft. I did check the brake pedal closely, used brake clean & fine sand paper .... The brake pedal does not have a bushing either on my truck. All back together now. The clutch pedal does still have some slight side to side play .... is 100% better then it was. I have test fitted the toe board and good clearance there. I think the time it took to add the bushing was worth it. While I may have expectations of finding factory bushings installed .... fact is the pedal assembly has worked for over 75 years. No complaints on quality from me.

I understand scarebird is gone .... here is a post copied & pasted from another forum .... I click on the link & goes nowhere. Just suggesting scarebird is no longer a option. We have RustyHope & now this site being discussed in this thread. Damn, another company folding due to COVID/supply chain problems. Here’s their website announcement: Scarebird closing Due to latent supply constraints from Covid-19, we have decided to shut down operation effective end of 2022. Items still listed are available - those not listed will not be replenished. Phone is not is use - please email us direct: tech@scarebird.com We sincerely appreciate your patience. Website will revert to info only regarding kits previously sold in 2023.

Honestly these old Mopar are not selling for what the same Chebby or Ford is ... Just a opinion. Same time I have seen the prices of Mopar climb high in the last couple years .... $12k seems low for the car you describe. Last week at the grocery store a carton of eggs was $11 .... Cars are going up also. I'm not trying to talk you into buying the car .... I suspect you are hesitant spending the money to buy the car. .... Looking for someone to talk you out of it. Actually sounds like a good deal to me .... buy it & drive it. You just need to make a decision .... A carburetor really has nothing to do with it.

Sounds perfect, except for 1 minor flaw .... 3600 rpm is max for these engines before you wipe out the bearings .... You would not want to run 3600 rpm for extended periods of times. The performance of the engine you describe .... Sounds like it possibly just needs to be ran. Often these old cars sit around for extended periods of time .... they have old gas in them, condensation builds up in the fuel tank .... The car just needs to be taken for a nice long drive with fresh gas. .... And drive it often. There is a whole lot more to just drive it. Maintenance schedule you need to crawl under it and .... I bet these older cars have at least 30 lubrication points .... When is the last time you greased your water pump or added oil to your generator? Have you Lubed your speedometer lately? Many people let the maintenance get behind .... I imagine if you bought the car, started driving it ran some sea foam through the gas ... I like a bottle of heet in the gas tank. I imagine you would have different questions, replacing the carburetor would not be on top of the list.

Welcome aboard, nice project to start with .... Sounds like you have done your homework. Just remember it is not a running race. To see who finishes first. Suppose to be a learning process, that you enjoy & do for fun. ..... Some of us old farts do it for mental health reasons. It is a process & enjoy it .....

I'm so jelly ..... "I hear on a radio commercial jelly is the new kids word for jealous. " I am on a yearly contract, this year am paying 13.3 cents per kwh .... as long as I stay under X amount of kwh per month. I only stay under the limit 8 months of the year, so 4 months am paying over 19 cents kwh Just saying, I am so jelly of your 5.9 .... not trying to change the subject of the thread. .... Just amazed at seeing 5.9 .... thats like seeing gasoline for 75 cents a gallon.

Just my humble opinion and worth what you paid for it. If your stock carburetor is in good condition, they work fine. The Carter B&B is a very simple design, easy to work on, rebuild kits are available. "cheap" The flathead engine is a very simple design & very reliable ... Mopar built the flathead 6 all the way up into early 1970's because they were so reliable. My 218 claims to have 95 HP .... They just suck at airflow. By design the intake/exhaust has to move sideways .... very poor way for a air pump to operate. So that creates my opinion, there is a lot of things that can be done to improve airflow on a flathead 6. Port the heads, Cam, pistons, rods ... custom intake & exhaust .... then match a carburetor to the engine. Slapping a aftermarket carburetor on a stock engine .... whats your goal ... 96 HP? You may end up losing performance instead. I have no idea what a YF is or what CFM it is classified as. If you bought it for your 1985 Ford .... It is too big for your stock flathead. Same time the Carter B&B is too small to put on your Ford. My engine I need to pull the choke out for a cold engine, Its starts very easy. Then it is a race to open the choke back up & it sits and idles fine cold. It simply does not like to run with the choke on.

I have in the past used atf mixed with the engine oil, did a great job cleaning a engine .... I would imagine it would do good for a gear box or rear end? I may have to try that myself Is amazing the things we think of as so simple can be a real pita to find ..... I just ran into the problem hunting down a half moon key. Just a item not been used in automobiles for decades. I'm have a local ace hardware store a few blocks down the street .... they have a pretty decent selection of hard to find screws & fasteners .... might be worth a look.

Is it possible you have a 1936 & up clutch disk installed when you need a 1935 & earlier?

I think you are correct ... the question is why? My first 1949 truck the farmer installed a 1938 engine into it .... That caused me to do some reading. Seems that in 1935 they moved the starer outwards ... This involved changing the bell housing, flywheel & clutch. So if you were going to swap parts .... 1935 was the year you needed to pay attention. You needed to swap parts 1935 & older ... or 1936 & newer.... Or was it 1934 & older or 1935 newer? .... This is your challenge. Never really affected me so I never really followed up on it .... 1935 was the key year though. Why I suggest mix matched parts & why you should research.

I'm no expert. Just saying I have taken a pressure plate apart. I checked the spring heights and the surface was in good shape .... I figure the mechanical parts including the clutch disk are good enough to put back into service. The bearings & bushing I'm concerned with old dried up grease. Of course this is a Ford, but the principle is the same .... This Ford pressure plate is ready to go back into service. Your Dodge has some issues, you will need to look closely to figure out what is rubbing where & why.

Myself the pilot shaft bearing & the bushing in the end of the crank would be a given .... replace. While the disk looks good & seems to have a lot of meat left before hitting the rivets .... could be better to use it then new china re-pops? The pressure plate does make you wonder. I have taken one apart before ... you measure the springs to see they are still in specs .... you can even change springs for performance use. You rebuild them or re-use them. the damage on the center of the pressure plate .... the shiny metal seems fresh. Around the shiny is rusted metal, I would suspect all damage to be rusted equally. IMHO, that shiny metal is a on going issue, not something that happened many years ago. Possibly you have a mis match of parts going on, you do need to dig further into this.

I'm with you ... move! It is 59F today. I'm in the shop, have my long johns & a sweatshirt & the propane heater running ??? I got no business joining this convo.

I can not speak for the 1938 model. I too thought there was a bushing installed on my 1949. I now see there is no bushing &never was .... I would imagine 1938 never had a bushing either. The pedals are simply a machined fit to ride on the shaft. The brake pedal on the right is wider has more surface contact riding on the shaft. Also the brake pedal has a grease fitting ... the idea is you grease the brake pedal, the excess dribbles out to the clutch pedal to grease it. I figure the clutch gets 4X the use as the brakes. The clutch pedal never gets greased properly. Just natural we never hear brake pedal issues, always the clutch pedal is worn out. Here with my new bushing installed, you can see the clutch pedal is not round ... is warbled out on the edges. While pretty round in the middle yet. Same time the shaft has wear, where the pedal rides on it. There is no way this is considered a perfect fix for a 100 point restoration vehicle. I expect to get many years out of it with it properly greased. I paid less then $20 for the bushing & have enough left over to do the job again, when this bushing is worn out in 20 years. If you have a drill bit close to 1" you can bore out the pedal properly, get a larger bushing .... you still have the worn shaft to deal with. I see the other options is to take the pedal and shaft to a machine shop & let them deal with it for a few hundred $$ This is simply a $10 fix that should last for quite awhile. The next time I simply need to remove the clutch pedal to replace the bushing. Not the whole assembly to remove 75 year old grease.

Yes the .00 or .01 is recommended. My project truck I have .02 for + ground, then a small 12 volt cable for power. This works fine for 2 years starting it up & moving it around. When I re-wire it I will install correct cables .... going 12 volt so does not matter.

Do you have the gas pedal hooked up? These carburetors are at full throttle at rest. you need the throttle spring to pull it to idle. Totally backwards from a modern carburetor & dangerous when a throttle spring breaks .... just the way our Grandparents rolled back in the day.

Got mine from https://dcmclassics.com/suspension-parts/304-br-563-brake-clutch-pedal-bushing.html?search_query=clutch+pedal+bushing&results=1 The title "replacing clutch pedal bushing" is wrong though. Is common for the pedal to wear on the shaft & wobble then squeak as it rubs on the toe boards. I thought the fix is to replace the bushing .... now that I'm in there, the factory did not have a bushing installed. You need to create & install a bushing. Mine was just a bit loose on the shaft. I took a very thin cutting wheel for a dremel & took a cut out of the length of bushing so it would be smaller/tighter on shaft. Then I reamed out the pedal very slowly until I could tap the bushing into place. .... Then I cut the length of the bushing flush with the width of pedal. Was pretty simple, not sure if it is the correct way to do the job. I will need to lightly tap the pedal back onto the shaft ... when I slide it into position, I suspect the shaft will have wear & be a little loose. But 100 times better then it was. Waiting for paint to dry before reassemble it.