Los_Control

The lawnmower carb is a good one. I did not watch the video link posted ... I probably should. I think it was around 1982-83 .... Victor was my Uncles best friend & lived down the street. He came over one day while I was their working on my truck. He was driving a crapped out 1967 chebby truck with a V8 running off of a lawnmower carburetor. ..... I was impressed. Thing is it seemed to run just fine sitting there idling. We were in a large housing development .... it ran fine 15-25 mph around the development. It even ran 35 mph on the access road ..... Any cross street he came to was either 45mph or 55mph ..... he could not drive those roads adequately. He stated he was just playing with it, had some more ideas to fabricate & work out ..... Uncle or I never heard one word about the truck again. Fast forward to today .... I saw this link today and thought some participating in this thread would like it .... I dunno. I know nothing about it, I did think it was interesting to watch though .... maybe you will also.

I want to wish you good luck with the project. .... you are really cutting time close. Steal a stop sign to cover the floor .... throw a blanket over the seat ..... does the radiator hold water? .... thinking I would replace it for a road trip. My thoughts on running short of time, Almost the first of August now. I was born in the Seattle/Tacoma area. The first year I moved to Spokane to manage a new shop in the company .... It snowed on Halloween & I never saw the ground again until spring. ..... So you are leaving yourself a window of about 8 weeks to work in. .... Unless your buddy has a heated shop? 8 weeks to prepare a old car for a road trip that can be difficult finding parts for ..... I'm assuming you will need all new wiring. All new brake & fuel lines All new hydraulics for the brakes..... probably get a rebuild kit for the carb .... at least take it apart & clean it. The motor runs, I'm not worried about the compression ..... honestly it is not too bad. Remember they have cast iron rings & aluminum pistons ..... the rings tend to stick to the pistons, they wont release & spin or seat properly after sitting .... A stuck valve would suggest zero compression for that cylinder. Your engine sounds fine. A few heat cycles & a road trip should improve it. What about the clutch, transmission, rear end ..... shift linkage .......Tires wheels .... charging system ..... U-joints <---- trust me the old mopar u-joints are a special treat depending which one's you have. Dude I wish you luck, what my vision is. @1948 coupe 808 is trying to shove 10 pounds of **** into a 5 pound container ..... I've seen it done before and have the greatest respect for those that can do it ..... Nothing I want to try though.

I am converting, many people here are 6 volt and use a 6 volt pump .... they will chime in on what pumps they use. There are many threads here on vapor lock if you use the search function. ..... common problem. My plan is to use the mechanical pump with the return line ...... just to see if it works for me here in West Texas heat. I will install a electric pump if needed later. I just want to know if a simple return line is enough for our old cars.

When I was a kid working at a Texaco gas station, they were teaching me brakes. We would hone the pits out but we had a cabinet hanging on the wall that had all the different sized rubber cups. Pretty sure they were in 1/16" increments. ..... I was told to put in 1 size larger cups. so if they were 15/16" I would install 1". That was our limit .... if it did not seal then we replaced with new. Maybe searching the internet you can find individual sized cups ..... pretty sure today all rebuild kits for that vehicle will have the same sized cups. Maybe you can find a rebuild kit for a different vehicle that has the size you want ........ Getting into a hassle .... Maybe just order new replacements, keep your original to have re-sleeved when it is more convenient?

Seems adding a electric booster pump is a sure fire way to get through it. The hot engine turns the fuel into vapor that a mechanical pump cant deal with ..... electric pump will push cool liquid fuel through the pump. Is the go to for most people.. I'm going to try adding a return line on my tank to recirculate the fuel & keep it cooler. When you are in traffic driving slow or stop & go, the fuel can vaporize as it sits in the line & heats up. .... At some point you may find this issue also. Simply not using enough fuel, the float closes & the exhaust heats it up in the line. Turns into vapor. When you stop at a grocery store, the engine heats up & turns the fuel to vapor in the carb. Electric pump will fix these issues. Modern cars with a return line are not affected by vapor lock with the modern fuels. The fuel never sits in the line & heats up, excess is returned to the tank .... constant supply of fresh cooler fuel. The cooler fuel can accept the heat soak from turning the engine off without turning to vapor .... will still rise 20-30 degrees temperature, but it was 20-30 degrees cooler before you shut the engine off. Since I'm installing a new tank & lines on my project, a extra step to T the line before the carb & run it back to the tank is not a big deal .... I think. Will it work? I hope.

I have no right to answer this .... I've never done it and want to take mine to a shop to have the windshield/corner windows installed ... Rubber replaced. These old cars A part of safety was you could use your feet & push the windshield out as a route for escape from a accident. With that logic, the gasket goes in first, then the glass is installed from the outside. My goal is to supply new rubber to a glass shop then have a experienced glazier install it. I just do not want to deal with the 2 piece windshield or the corner glass .... In the end I will probably end up doing it myself .... I have dreams though.

Hrm ... A 70 year old carburetor car with cheap Chinese ignition system parts available .... Hrm!

And my wife wonders why we never have a Turkey baster in the drawer & needs to buy a new one every Thanksgiving. ?

It is from Tanksinc is listed as a 1939-1947 dodge truck tank. currently listed for $315 Will work on 48-53 Dodge Trucks with minor modifications https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/mode=prod/prd349.htm This thread was simply my version of the minor modification. Their way is easier & maybe better. I Dunno ..... I just did not care for their way & did it my way.

I bet you are right, they did not re-torque the head as needed. Because the bolts will loosen, compression will lesson .... the gasket will be damaged but nothing serious like warping the head .... I could be wrong. I'm betting slapping a new gasket on it will cure it ..... if in doubt use two gaskets Years ago I bought the wife a Toyota Tercel 4x4 station wagon .... fun car & we lived in snow country. It blew a head gasket and there was actually a recall on these engines for the head gasket issue. Problem is the block is so small there is no room for head bolts between the cylinders. .... Only had head bolts around the perimeter of the head. With no support the heads always warped in the middle. The recall they pulled the head & added a thick cushy shim along with the head gasket. When mine blew it was on me ... past recall dates. Nobody in town stocked the shim so I slapped 2 head gaskets on it & drove it for years after that. I forget why we stopped driving it .... was not because of the head gasket .... thinking it was carburetor issues.

I have to apologize ..... The way I read it is .... You went to your friends commercial bar. I totally thought this was a commercial establishment where you had paying customers buying refreshments. Hey whatever you do in your back yard is cool with me .....I really thought you were talking about a commercial bar & I was being critical of the choices. Since it is your own backyard, carry on & have a good time. Again I apologize for my silly misleading .

Go big or sit on the porch! The idea is great, the execution sucks.

I'm just assuming you are the bar owner .... with your reply. Your job is to create a relaxing atmosphere for people to want to come to. ..... WTF is that fence hiding whatever it is? 2"x6" lumber barely nailed together with a sheet of roofing material not even cut to fit hanging over the side. ....... Not very attractive. You have the same OSB plywood on the roof. ..... Within a short period of time it will turn gray, start to chip away ..... the misters will only shorten the time before the roof looks like total garbage. I suspect you spent $2k-$3k on material.... got cheap labor from bar patrons looking for work? As a carpenter I have built bars, repaired bars, I enjoyed the benefits of working at a bar .... Last bar I built was a long L shaped bar to replace the 50 year old self destructing bar in play. I walked in a month later to look at it ..... There were three girls dancing on the bar to hold their very own titties contest. I figured all warranties were done, drank my drink & went home. I'm just saying you need to be careful of lawsuits ..... will that bar hold a few girls dancing on it? ..... How do you know you can avoid it some day when you are not there? I just feel like their was $3k spent foolishly, in a few 3 years needs replaced ..... If $5k spent you would have something to build on.

Looks cool ......kinda. I love the idea. Some people should just keep their opinions to themselves ...... Wish I was one of them Your Buddy has a great idea, the roof structure is too small needs to be replaced with some beefy timbers. Then set a Swamp cooler in the middle of the roof with duct work circling the bar with individual ducts over the bar stools. You would be outside, in the shade, with cooling .... some scenery .... Even if need to make it ...... Probably have to put on a full time bartender just for that spot in the afternoons.

GL-1 is certainly good enough for our old cars. Since it is difficult to find at most local auto parts stores ...... GL-5 will be fine even if we do not call it better ...... As long as it protects soft metals.

There was a recent long discussion here on the differences between GL-1 & GL-5 .... I will say that you need to read the labels. My label states that it prevents the corrosion of copper & bronze bushings. I understand that some may not say this. My understanding is, GL-5 is a modern oil superior to GL-1 ..... Modern vehicles may or may not have soft copper or bronze in them & the oil does not need to protect these softer metals. ..... My oil does. I'm using 85-140 super tech from walmart. When you research oils, the lower number from 80-90 ..... is how thick the oil is when it is cold, the higher number 90 is related to how well it performs when hot. So my oil 85-140 GL-5 with MT1 that protects soft metal .... In my mind is far superior to the 80-90 GL-1. Just remember that in the early days of GL-5 it was not treated with MT1 to protect the soft metals. I only assume that today most of them do, so you need to read the label to verify it protects soft metals. Many will say to not use GL-5 oils in our vehicles for that reason. At one time they were 100% correct. The oil companies saw the problem, corrected it .... today it is OK ...... If you read the label!

I think it would probably work .... I wonder how long the same steering box-shaft was used? I'm like you, just do not want to deal with a badly cracked wheel thats missing a few chunks. I can make it better & paint it ..... too many ribs & lines in the wheel, I could never restore it to look like it should. Same time do not want to spend a small fortune to replace it.

Sounds kinda normal sorry to say. Good thing is the engine has been worked on over the years. The oil pump when installed it is critical to put the engine on TDC first. Then when the distributor is installed it will also be TDC since the distributor is run off of the oil pump. Sadly it is a step that many mechanics have overlooked over the years .... drop in the oil pump then figure out the distributor location later. I'm only suggesting it is a common issue for the distributor wire of #1 to be installed in the 7 0'clock position of the distributor cap is wrong. .... Should be correct though. My truck they tried to get it right, installed the oil pump 1 tooth off .... My #1 plug is at 6 0'clock instead of 7 0'clock as manual suggest. I had to figure this out myself for my first start & correct plug wires as needed ..... Many others also ..... there is a reason why some suggest to put it up on TDC then check things out.

A bearing splitter might be the best tool .... You can get under the wheel then use a regular puller to remove the wheel ..... should cause no damage to the wheel. others have improvised & made something to work. using 3/4" plywood & all thread etc... https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Bearing-Separator-Splitters-Bearings/dp/B075Z6JRDD/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=bearing+separator&qid=1689706318&sr=8-9

You may be the most correct The real problem is that it tasted like candy to children .... they would eat it or lick the walls. ..... So it was banned by the government ..... the most long lasting paint ever made. ...... Maybe they could have added hot sauce to it so kids would not lick it? To handle it safely all we needed was a paper mask when we were doing demolition to break it into small dust particles. Good chance in my mind, the paint industry lobbied the government to disqualify this paint because it lasted too long & they could not sell enough paint to stay in business. Same time real painters like bridge painters. They would start on a bridge & take a full year to get across it .... 2 painters 1 on each side. Took a full year to get across the bridge. Then they will start at the beginning again & spend the next year getting across ..... Just such harsh conditions with the salt water & weather .... The job never ended & they use the best paint available ..... includes lead. No problem applying it ..... just do not eat it when it dries.

Took the wife for a drive awhile back to a swap meet .... the swap meet sucked & was a bust .... I did notice a old run down house that was occupied & in the back field was a pile of tires & wheels .... there were old steel wheels all over the top of the pile. Hard to say what all is in the pile. I keep telling myself I want to go back and see if can talk to the people. ..... Right now this time of year, that is rattle snake country. 3 acres of field with a tire pile in July ..... No thank you.

I think lead paint gets a bad name that is not deserved. Is true it is harmful & can cause brain damage if you eat it. Trick is, do not eat it or digest it ..... so wear dust mask when sanding on it. I once had to go to a class in New Mexico to become a certified lead paint removal expert. As a foreman carpenter in a home remodeling company this qualified me to teach my workers how to properly remove lead paint from homes. A whole lot of nonsense when doing demolition, all the lead contaminated debris was to be put in a garbage bag with the bag tied in a specific knot to indicate it was hazardous waste. Then we were required to tell the drivers who were hauling the dumpsters of garbage away that they were hauling hazardous waste & pay a premium fee for hauling it away. As a actual worker doing the demolition, we were required to wear safety glasses & paper mask ..... That is enough to stop the dust particles of lead paint. Lead paint is still used today in industrial applications. The more lead they can add the longer the paint will last. Back in the day they could add the most lead to red paint & not affect the color. ..... This is why all those great old barns were painted red .... it lasted longer. Today they still use lead paint in industrial applications, like a elevator or the golden grate bridge .... probably a million different places it is still used. The real issue why it was banned to the average person. If you had a window trim painted with lead. Then a young child picks off a flaking piece of paint .... it taste sweet. So they sit there & literally dig at the paint & eat it ..... they continue it over time & eventually it causes bodily damage. People work with lead base paint all the time, just be cautious & not eat it .... wear a mask when removing .... you will be fine.

I'm jealous you have a floor shift .... must be a 4spd? I specifically wanted a 1949 to get the 3spd on the floor or a 4spd is fine also .... 1950 was the first year of the 3 on the tree. I bought it online looking at pictures & had it delivered. .... I was surprised when it showed up with a 3 on the tree. I still love it & happy to have it. .... turns out the serial # ends with a X. This means it was built & titled as a 1949, then sent out to the dealers to put on the floor to advertise next years models. No significant value to it, just a 1950 that was built in 1949 ...... My truck is a true 1949 that identifies as a 1950 model.

I need one more of those 15" wheels. Will need a spare. They are not that easy to find in my world .... someday though. I'm not sure if I have Mopar wheels or not. 3 take a 8" cap & 1 takes a 9" ..... no dog dishes for me til I straighten out the wheels

Been out driving it, last night then again today went grocery shopping then went for a drive to fill it up & get gas for the lawnmower .... took the long way. Really pleased with how the clutch turned out. It does shift better, there was some throw out or pilot shaft bushing noise ... gone now. I still need to weld up the exhaust, just wanting to be sure it is fixed before I do that. I suck at troubleshooting electrical issues. I unplugged the safety switch then inserted a wire to connect them together .... should bypass the switch. Made no difference. I do not know how the switch works though ... normally open or normally closed. ...... 50/50 chance my test was incorrect. I pulled the starter & tested it on the floor, it's fine. .... I installed it a couple years ago along with the battery cable & did some repair on the trigger wire ....they are fine. I also replaced the ignition switch when I bought the truck. You did not need a key to start it or could not lock the ignition .... so that's also new. What I did was install another trigger wire to the solenoid runs to a push button in the cab .... bypass all the safety. I have a new safety switch ordered, only $5, if not that then I would guess ignition switch next & replace it again. I will eventually get it fixed correctly, at least I can drive it for now .... tough being without wheels to drive. I wrote this then got busy on the phone never hit send .... then I ordered the clutch switch while I was thinking about it ..... realize the switch is under the dash & not on the transmission at all ..... Was probably the speedometer I was playing with yesterday ? ...... I also ordered a repair manual for the truck when I ordered the clutch .... will be here tomorrow .... might get some insight from that also.