Los_Control

Just something to think about, I will also guess elements & the bottom one gets the brunt of the abuse. Sometimes the tanks can fill with crud & literally bury the lower element, depending how hard your water is. You will want to use some wire to see how much crud you can get out of the bottom. I have seen them before where you had to remove the crud just so the new element would go in. They have a sacrificial anode rod that is suppose to help, probably all gone by now Depending how old it is, it may be ready to start leaking from being rusted out ???? You need a crystal ball to know when. Does draining it every year and sitting for 6 months prolong it's life span .... or shorten it? ..... I really have no idea. I know our old cars do not like it. So thinking out loud ..... I wonder what a new replacement tank cost, vrs repairing the old one then it start leaking next year? The first house I bought had what I thought to be the original hot water heater, it was made by the Edison electric company. I was proud to own it, as it worked just fine til it did not. The only problem was it had like a voltage regulator with points to control it. The points started sticking on it & would not turn off the elements. Then it would overheat & blow off water through the safety pressure relief valve. It would flood the basement, one side was a workshop other side a bedroom. So there was water damage & safety issue if the old safety valve failed to work ........ after 3 time trying to fix it, I replaced it.

I like the fact the machine shop is fixing it .... Sure they wouldn't touch it unless they were confident. Gives you more time to play with other things

I'm not really sure what you want ..... the valves are adjusted with a feeler gauge & not thread pitch. I'm calling @keithb7 out because they made a excellent video on adjusting valves ..... I can not find the video now. I do remember watching it ...... I just cant find it on Keith channel to share it. The book gives you Hot & cold valve lash, & you set it with a feeler gauge, not by thread pitch. The idea of setting it by thread pitch is so far out in left field nobody knows how to reply. Ask how to set valves you will get answers ..... ask how to set them with thread pitch, people will take a wide berth stepping around you.

Thats a interesting question ..... Back in the 20's-30's a lot of Fords the frame was the same .... you could turn a roadster into a coupe into a pickup .... Not sure Dodge was ever like that. Even by 38 you could not do the same with Ford. ..... I have no idea how much fabrication was needed at that time. Imho, it will not be a bolt together swap .... you will need fabrication, No idea how much. Same time, the motor, transmission, brakes,rear end will all swap with your frame ..... the price is cheap enough you should grab it if you have room to store it. While it may not be a direct swap, there will be many hard to find parts available to you ..... even if your frame needs repair you have a donor of the metal. I saw a utility trailer made from a 49 Dodge truck, I bought it for $200 just for spare parts ..... Not used any yet but glad I have it available.

Wonderful story ...... think my allergies were acting up, had to wipe a tear away. ..... My mother went blind from diabetes ..... you did right by letting her feel her way around.

Wow that is awesome, I guess I misunderstood, I thought it was going to the body man to get reassembled. I knew some of the bed or fenders still needed some work or paint ...... My bad. I have a acquaintance .... He owns the house next door & his daughter lives there. He lives around the corner. He is a mechanic for the best shop in our little town, he turns out show quality paint work at home. He always has a customer car being worked on & sometimes one in line to be next. His current project is some 50's Oldsmobile been there for 3 months waiting to be next, finally has all the glass out & in sealer .... might be 4 months before it drives away finished .... It will be beautiful ..... just takes time.

That might be the best thing to do ..... But I have a idea! There was a discussion here awhile back about thoughts on adding ATF to the transmission for a cleaner before changing the oil in it. While not everyone agreed it was a great idea, nobody really thought it would cause harm. I know the miracles of atf in engine oil to clean a motor out, I've done it with great success. So now my plan is to run the light motor oil in place of the atf. The atf would be more effective, I think the 5-30 will probably do a decent job also. I will change the oil in the rear end first adding 5-30 to it, then with the truck on jack stands just run it in 2nd gear at 800--1k RPM. Long enough for the gear oils to get good and warm then drain them while they are hot. I will be curious to see how dirty the oil is when drained. If really dirty, I will be happy I flushed it. If just so so dirty, I will be happy they were not that dirty to begin with. Since there will be no heavy load on the gears I see no harm, it will be a good exercise for the truck to run in gear above idle for awhile ..... I can see if the speedometer works or needs more attention after I cleaned it. I made a mistake, going to turn lemons into lemonade.

And just like that .... 2 years later .... ??? I have everything completed that I wanted to do before putting the floor in. New bushing on the clutch pedal. New speedo cable. New e-brake cable & working e-brake. Working brakes. Drive line removed, u-joints serviced, yoke properly working ..... ready to go to work. I changed the oil in the transmission. Today was a mile stone, I was very pleased .... still need to button up a few loose ends, I can now weld in the floor. I'm all happy, got the bbq going & cleaning the garage putting everything away. When I put the oil jug away I realized I put 1+ quarts of 5-30 motor oil in it ☹️ Think we call this life happens. ..... I bought a quart of 80-90 a long time ago but could not find more. So I bought a gallon jug of 85-140 ..... same brand I'm fine with mixing them. So I added the quart. Then I grabbed the gallon jug off the shelf to finish filling it ..... I grabbed the wrong jug. Never realized it til I was putting the jug away. Oh well, not a big deal. I was considering adding a quart of atf, run it a bit on the jack stands to clean the transmission, then change it again ....... Seems like I'm doing the same thing, only with motor oil instead of atf.

Great looking truck, congratulations on it. The actual & I think correct size of the tires, shows 8.25-20 in your photo. IIRC, others have talked about switching to 22.5 wheels. ...... Is there a 9R22.5 tire? ..... Still taller then a 8.25 I think. Just saying, the taller tires did not agree with the gear ratio of the truck. So if you had a load & a hill you had to downshift to a lower gear then normal. That is a very nice looking original truck to have the interior look as good as it does. I love all old trucks, GM trucks are not bad either. ..... I think many of them had the 216 with a splash oiling system? Not sure when they switched to a pressurized oil pump. Just saying the old flathead in the Dodge was built from the 1930's all the way into the 1970's because it was so reliable for many applications. I'm talking about airport tugs, industrial farm equipment, vehicles sold outside of USA for emission reasons. ..... They were just great engines & worked as is. You will not regret taking care of this one. I'm hoping to hear more as you get to know your new truck.

The package I have from the auto parts store are called "U-type speed nuts" They actually work. They are size M6-1.0, M8-1.25 ..... I really do not understand the size label. ..... The actual bolts measure 5/16", probably considered 1/4" course thread. I just need to spend some time to figure out what size to order. To be honest, I was afraid to put "speed nuts" into a google search to see what comes up .... U-nuts work.

Well ladies & gentlemen, I do not recommend the 1969 Mustang E-brake cable. I did grind down the size of the ball to fit also needed to slice just a sliver off the end of the original e-brake handle in order to install the clip that holds it all together. Not proud of cut & modify the original e-brake handle .... "I feel" a original cable will still work if needed. Connecting to the e-brake itself, the cable adjuster is too long & needs shortened ..... no bad feelings about modifying the cable. Essentially I have a working e-brake for $10 Here is the problem with this particular cable .... simply too short. Here it is lying right on the exhaust manifold. This will be a easy fix with some baling wire, I can make a bracket to bolt to the firewall & hold it away ..... Not sure I will ever be happy with this cable. Just saying, this turns into a future Fred problem .... Today Fred has a working e-brake & bigger fish to fry. Maybe with the right hold down bracket, I might learn to love it? This is why I do not recommend it. If you need to hire someone to make the bracket, would be cheaper to just buy the correct $100 cable. I want to say the Ford cable has really close cable connections to our Dodges. This cable is for a 1969 Mustang, I want to do some research someday to see if maybe a 69 Ford Galaxie has the same connections but a longer cable for a longer body style?

Thanks, that certainly is correct search term & thanks for the link. Going to try and finish the E-brake then will sit down & shop.

Today am working on the E-brake ..... Not sure how it will work out. Feeling pretty confident though. I ordered a front brake cable for a 69-70 mustang from Holley memorial day sale for less then $10. Amazon sells the same cable for $17, others $22 ..... Just cheaper then the $100 I find for cables that fit our trucks. The ball on the end is slightly to large, will need to sand it down with the dremel to fit the E-brake handle. It is about 6" shorter then the original. IMHO, the original was too long anyways, long sweeping loop allowed it to rub on the exhaust .... A shorter cable might be a good thing? See how it works out. I keep forgetting that I need to order some of the clips I have circled. for mounting the inner fenders, toe boards, trans cover etc.... I do not know the correct name for them to do a search. I can get some at the parts store .... package of 4 for $5-$7 .... I need at least 25-30 of them + I'm missing some of the bolts. Just hoping someone can give me the proper name to search with.

I was thinking, you will probably never get a good nights sleep again ..... lying awake wondering if you could have done it.

And then paid you for the use of the car? What a deal!

I'm not familiar with your exact linkage, I'm sure someone here will be. Since you have tested the transmission works in all gears, it goes back to linkage adjustment. Study and understand the purpose for each rod .... one slides forward & back to engage gears .... thats working getting you into R-1rst. The 2nd rod from neutral position slides over to engage the 2nd-3rd gears ..... thats the one giving you problems ..... it sounds like. Seem like you are not getting enough reach. ..... So that is the rod I would be looking at. I do not know what the book says, sometimes the rods can get bent, old bad motor mounts can allow the engine to settle & throw the adjustment out .... Look for something that is not right. Welcome to the forum.

I do not have any photos, old pc crashed a few years ago & lost what I had. I can say the hinge is slotted & is adjustable ..... The metal plates for the door I do not think they are. For me when I removed my doors, the top hinge plate on the passenger side fell into the abyss .... It took a strong telescopic magnet to retrieve it. So the bolts go through the sheet metal of the cab, through the slotted holes on the hinge then the drilled holes on the plates. The plates are not welded to the cab, they are stuck to the cab by rust over the years. ...... The nuts are not welded. I have my doors back on, I greased the slotted hinge, I still need to do final adjustments but they work as is for now.

Ok thanks Ed, I stand corrected. The only time a checked the blower in my heater .... was before I installed the motor back in, after I disassembled the heater for paint ..... I thought it was a good idea to check the motor to see if it worked before installing it. I thought it would be more exciting to install the fan while holding the motor and connecting it to a 12V battery. It ran really fast on 12V but it did blow good. I have no idea which wire was which with the old cloth wiring ..... 50/50 chance I reversed the wires & was running it backwards?

Hrm not sure what you are looking for. I use these to change the struts on my wife car, they are for the outside of the spring. I assume they would work for coil springs? There is a guy on youtube I watch, he uses a threaded rod with some flat bars through the middle of the springs to collapse them. To be honest mine are pretty cheap $30, I would rather have these instead of some home made threaded rod. https://www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Macpherson-Strut-Spring-Compressor/dp/B016XUXMC8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=spring+compressor&qid=1685643377&sr=8-1

Yes a motor will, starter ... fan blower motor .... electric wiper motor

Thanks Greg. Think I was under the impression that a internally resisted coil was the same as a external .... I understand they are not the same now.

I'm pretty sure it would work to use 6V coil ... even though I have not done a 12 volt conversion before. What concerns me is switching the polarity on the coil ...... possible this might be a old wives tale. The flow of electricity goes through the coil creating a pattern ...... would a sine wave be accurate? I dunno. But the coil gets use to flowing in a certain direction. So it may be possible when you reverse the flow the coil may act strange. Again I have no idea if this is true or old BS. There was a guy that did this in a 12V conversion & everything worked beautiful & ran great. Except a strange miss at a certain RPM. He tried everything, rebuild the carburetor, tried a different carb, several attempts going through the points, plugs,cap,wires .... Dog chasing it's tail. Eventually he tried a different coil & the problem went away. ....... He was convinced reversing the polarity on the coil caused it. Again I have no idea if it was true or not, I'm sure if it was true .... If we tried it on 100 coils, maybe 3 or 4 from the 100 might be a problem? I doubt it is common, but is possible. I will keep mine around for a spare, would not hesitate to use it if broke down on the side of the road .... no plans on running it.

IMHO, that is a red flag .... should have been changed during the rebuild. Since they did not, I would also question what else was done or not done during the rebuild.

At least you will need to pull the head, maybe dig deeper with a complete disassembly & inspection. Just a thought, My Uncle once bought a rebuilt 218 flathead for a project he never got to. The seller had removed the head so the buyer could inspect the internals & see it was rebuilt. My Uncle bought it & he just set the head back on & snugged up the bolts ..... shoved it in a corner. til he died 30 years later. So whoever has the engine now, It needs a new head gasket & bolts torqued down in order to run it. Is it possible something like that happened to your engine? Or, do you know complete history on it?

The alternator bracket was easier then expected. I used the 2 brackets .... not the top bracket. The one bracket I really do not understand how they would use it .... is meant to mount on exhaust manifold. I did need to drill a hole near the front mounting bolt, then my die grinder to extend the mounting hole. Then I welded the other bracket to it. Now I have plenty of adjustment to slide the alternator forward or back for belt alignment. The top bracket I used a longer bolt then added a old square threaded nut for a spacer. Little short on belt adjustment, only 1/2" of travel left .... If I loosen everything up & raise the top arm, will get more belt adjustment. Going through the drive line now. Am pulling the needle bearings & cleaning everything in gas to remove all old grease. Then hosing down with brake clean to remove any specs of dirt .... fresh grease & reassemble. The drive line needed to come out for cleaning & paint anyways. Only suggesting they should last awhile, if I decide to do a rear end swap down the road .... not a lot of $$ invested in new $90 u-joints. I did get the battery box installed, nothing to write home about .... This was my first attempt about 2 years ago, It is 18 gauge, I hammered formed ripples in the bottom for rigidity & bolt head clearance then it has a foam bottom for the battery to sit on. I actually hated it & decided to build another .... time to install the new one was too big & would be a problem. So I just went back to the original .... will work for now. I have some parts on order from Holley, they are having a stupid ridiculous memorial day sale. While nothing for a pilothouse specifically they had many parts for 47-54 chebby trucks. I bought a complete after market tail light wiring harness to come from the cab to both sides of the rear, $3. A shift knob for $1.50 I bought 2 different Front E-brake cables for $13 for the pair. .... If I can not make 1 of them work, I'm not out a lot. I bought a tail light/license plate bracket for $7 .... will need mods to work but cheap bones to work with. A chrome choke knob/cable for $4. A set of quality chrome headers for a old Ford engine $52 with tax & shipping, whens the last time you bought chrome headers for less then $100? I restrained myself on a lot of items, they had new 4 core radiators that would work for my truck at $55. 2 core @$35 New chrome bumpers for a 49 chebby for $35 I did put some items in my cart that disappeared as I continued to shop .... they sold out while I was shopping. Not sure when the sale ends ..... sad thing is Holley is simply buying competitors and closing out their inventory ... more Hot Rod parts that will never be available again.