Los_Control

I think what I'm not being clear about ..... will the 1953 truck bell housing bolt up to a 331 hemi, a 277 polly or a 360 .... Bob you have the transmission that came with the poly, you know it fits. ..... What about the op truck transmission ..... will it fit? I think when doing a engine swap from some thing other then stock, having a correct transmission or adapter is a big 1rst step. I think on a chebby, you can take a turbo 350 bolt it to a 6 cylinder, move it to a 350 sbc, then move it to a BB 454 ..... But what about a Dodge? .... What engine families do you have to stay with for a 1953 truck 3spd bell housing to bolt to?

I did a Master Cylinder swap on my truck plus new lines .... so I added a T in the line to move my switch to .... it was installed on original MC. I started looking around for the brass adapter to make it work. I quickly realized I may not find the correct adapter to match the threads on the switch. I might need to get 2 adapters to get to correct threads, or buy a new switch with different threads so I can adapt to the 5/16" T .... Or simply go with a mechanical switch & get on with my day.

Here is where you will find him. ....... I think what he does is just wrap it in the clear plastic for shipping. So if there was any rodent infested .... pissed on .... smelly material on it ..... I doubt any of the drivers would want to pick it up & handle it. May actually be a rule from UPS to avoid the issue. ..... He assured me he would have to remove all material from it before shipping. Parts I have bought from him toe board, transmission cover ..... he just wraps them in plastic & sticks a shipping label on it .... fast & easy. https://www.facebook.com/groups/pilothouse Place a wanted add there & you may find what you want? If I get a chance I know someone over on the h.a.m.b. that lives in Eastern WA. His wife had a 49 B1B. I was moving from the Kennewick area & gave him my 49 B1C & a 1952 dodge pickup also a 52 plymouth suburban ...... And a 1959 home made Ford Ranchero I was moving to Texas & not bringing all this crap with me & it needed to be gone. I forget where he said he lived .... like 1/2 way to spokane in some rural area ...... It's possible he might have something he would sell? I do not talk to him very often, when I see him post he has some pretty interesting projects he is working on 1928? Dodge with the old wooden wheels. That was over 5 years ago, I do not know if he still has them. If he would even sell anything if he had them. ..... I know his real name, cant remember the handle he post under. I only remember his avatar photo. Sooo, next time I see them post, iicr, I will ask & figure out a way to get your info to him if he is interested.

@Bob Riding would the original 3spd transmission mount to them? To be honest I have no idea about the bolt patterns for Mopar transmissions. Fords they changed the bolt patterns 6 times a year ..... Chevrolet they were good about keeping them the same for all engines forever. I think that is the real question, what engines will work with the factory 3spd transmission? I think a 218 or 230 would be the only direct bolt in. When installing a V8 it has been done a million times, I often hear about them moving the engine 1" to the passenger side to clear the steering box. I remember a few years ago some one here had a real sexy yellow with black bed truck he daily drove in CA .... He installed a hemi replacing his running driving 6cyl. Think he might have a thread here on it, I cannot remember their name to look it up. ...... Maybe someone here can remember? Have not seen him here for a couple years.

Good looking truck, hope you have good luck getting it running. There are several radiator suppliers who have one that will fit these old dodges. ..... I bought a generic used aluminum radiator for $50, modified the brackets to make it fit ... painted it black. Looks good enough to me and works well. The seat bottom, I assume you mean the springs? ..... Their is a guy on FB Douglass Crozier who parts out these dodges. He told me $80 + shipping. He only ships the bare metal springs & removes all padding & material. So figure in the cost to recover it. I bought a set of bucket seats from a chebby silverado. Good luck keep posting progress

??? ..... exactly what it is .... or from some sort of horn. Just a solid heavy brass trinket I had lying in a junk drawer. I needed to cut the tail off to length, the inside diameter was just right to run a tap through for threads ..... took 15 minutes to make & better then nothing which is what I had. I,m not entirely sold on it though. Couple weeks ago I bought a black plastic shift knob for a 50's chebby truck for $2 from Holley memorial day clearance sale. So when I start installing the seats & working on the interior I will have a choice.

I like that, dress that sexy polished knob up with a extension

Looks great I like it ..... seems odd though with so many threads left under it looking at the picture. Trim the shifter down a bit to remove the extra threads? Drill & tap the knob deeper to use them up? Add a lock nut under it so it actually looks like the threads are needed? Either way I love it, it looks better then mine.

Thats something I've seen done with a tow dolly, but never done myself. I just wonder how well they would handle with the heavy end on the ground & light end on the tongue. Did anyone mention to bring a good come along? You do not want to try to push that beast up the ramps. Always good to be perfectly prepared ..... then nothing happens and all for naught.

U-haul also have some very specific qualifications your truck has to meet in order to rent you a trailer. A friend of mine had a car trailer & pulled it with his 3/4 ton truck all the time. He needed to rent a longer trailer to pull 1 vehicle. The only way they would rent him the trailer, he had to also rent a 1 ton box van to pull it with. ..... Again for liability reasons. My employer went down to rent a bob cat one time. His truck & trailer was fine, but his tie down straps were 3" wide ..... they would not load it unless he rented the 4" straps to tie it down with. Car dolly they do not have as strict of requirements.

I can not offer a opinion on the drive shaft. The tow dolly is a good alternative to a trailer. U-Haul will suggest 55mph to be on the safe side for liability. Here in Texas I often see people use tow dolly. Is common to see some dealer coming from a car auction. They will have a flatbed with one car on it, then using a tow dolly pulling a 2nd car, then a special tow dolly connected to the 2nd car pulling a 3rd car ...... pulling double trailers I guess is the term. They are cruising down the freeway 75 mph with no problems. ...... U-Haul takes good care of their equipment usually ..... you should be fine. The only thing I know about automatic transmissions, you need the engine running to turn the front pump on the transmission to circulate the oil. If only the drive shaft is rotating, not the pump .... then the internals are rotating without proper lubrication.

I remember my most favorite person, my wife Uncle. When he was getting old, in his 80's, his eye sight was going bad ..... Dumbass had cataracts & I tried to convince him to have the surgery ..... he would not. He had a 2 acre property that was his own private wrecking yard of cars from the 40's to the 90's. Even though he could no longer drive, was his greatest pleasure to walk outside & choose what vehicle he wanted to be driven into town in. His son lived with him who was disabled & drove. My favorite stories from Uncle was when he was a teen, he got kicked out of high school .... he would come by in his model A & sneak his girlfriend out of class ... during sports activities or whatever, they would go riding in the country .... she never finished school either. ...... They were married over 55 years before she passed. I never asked my uncle what he & aunt Jenny did on those rides ..... he sure had lots of smiles remembering them though. Those cars are a lifetime of memories.

Could she have taken you for ice cream if you did not prepare the car for her? It's not self serving!

I wont buy the self serving attitude. Very possible you will be stuck with the vehicles when your parents pass. ...... Makes sense to maintain them. But the joy you gave both your parents to take them out for a ride, something they could not do by themselves without your help. You even got ice cream ...... I wonder how many memories your mother/father had in them vehicles .... even if they cant drive anymore, just riding along. Stick them in the back seat and take them for a tour of the countryside ..... they might be happy. Sucks getting old but we all get there .... making it fun helps.

I'm only suggesting that 1950 they were not fabricated ..... but yours were ...... OHHH if these old trucks could talk ...

You know I'm now going to have to inspect my 1950 motor mounts ..... 9:00 pm at night

I'm sure there is a interesting story behind that somewhere. All the old beaters I have seen it was the drivers side motor mount that broke & or was chained down to keep it from breaking. Just saying that passenger side never broke from abuse of your 95hp engine. There is a story there somewhere

Thanks @Merle Coggins That really helps me in my decision how to proceed. I bought the truck in 2018 & removed the floors then. Now putting it back together the only original piece is the upper toe board. The pedals keep interfering with installing the floor ..... In my mind that seems wrong ...... keep thinking I installed the pedals wrong or .... something. I can very easily just push down the toe boards/pedals & install the fasteners ..... I'm thinking that is not the correct way ..... I had to ask. I know I need to remove the MC push rod to install the toe boards, then cut it to length to fit. I have the new dust covers from DCM ..... they scare me thinking about stretching them over the large pedals ..... I have a plan! I feel silly now asking this question, I had no idea the floor would be the stop.

I'm thinking I did something wrong when I assembled my pedal assembly. The adjuster is clocked so seems one way installed is correct, other way is wrong. <----- I'm thinking I installed it wrong but not sure. Poor photo, I'm trying to show the toe board in place lying on the pedals & 2" away from the cowl ..... I can push it down & install the bolts, that just seems wrong to me. Dump the clutch & will bang the floor ..... When I installed the Toyota MC, I cut the rod to fit this setup .... pushing it down 2" to clear the floor .... riding with the brakes on. So I'm just guessing the problem is when I installed the adjustment collar then readjusted it. Can anyone tell me what is the normal clearance between the toe board & pedals? ...... Any suggestions what else to look at? Trying to get the new floor pan set to weld in .... same problem it is hitting the pedals & not lay down where it needs to be. So I thought to put the toe board in place to see exactly where the floor pan should sit ..... seems obvious something is wrong with how I assembled the pedals.

Problem with doing the Ford flat 6 to the mopar trans, .... I wonder if it has ever been done before? ..... I doubt you will find any help on the steps needed. You will want the Ford bell housing, pressure plate that bolts to the Ford flywheel ..... the clutch may be a different diameter & spline count. You will have to figure it out. You probably will not be able to bolt the mopar transmission to the ford bell housing ...... you might be able to re-drill the bell housing to fit. There will be a circle locating the transmission to center it on the bell housing .... you may need to machine this to fit the mopar to Ford. The front shaft needs to be a certain length to be inserted into the pilot shaft bushing on the crank .... If it is too short your screwed. If too long you can cut it ...... The bushing has a inside & outside measurement you will need to figure out what you need. The throw out bearing will also be a challenge ....... Just saying, if you have to ask you probably do not want to take on the challenge of mating a mopar trans to a ford. The Fords used some strange bell housings in their day, 48-52 they were more normal .... earlier models the oil pan was 1/2 the bell housing. What year is the motor you are looking at?

Just my opinion, I have watched & read instructions for modifying & adapting different transmissions to engines. It takes some work & thinking. Adapting a T-10 5spd to a engine for example. Has been done a million times ..... it is a considerable amount of effort. I would be looking for a engine/transmission combo to do the swap ..... save a lot of headaches. The swap will provide plenty of headaches without adding to them. Or just keep searching for the correct engine for your car, they are out there.

Reminds me of a time when I was young. I swore the rear end went out on my Toyota crap box. I bought a replacement from local wrecking yard .... replaced it & found it to be a bad U-joint. Recently I had a front wheel bearing go bad on my chebby truck ..... I swore it was the rear end again .... I pulled the rear end apart & inspected everything. Then found the wheel bearing while looking deeper. Just suggesting there is nothing wrong with pulling the transmission & inspecting it .... you did learn something from it.

Sounds awesome ..... you might want to double check the speed rating on your ratchet strap ..... some are no good over 45mph ???

I must be a real hack .... I love my tools, but $150 for wire crimps I would seldom use is a tough pill to swallow ..... For my tight arse As a remodel carpenter I always carried a pair of crimps in my tool belt. I felt that they were a good quality working man's tool .... plus the electricians also used Klein tools. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=klein+wire+crimper&i=tools&crid=35HSRZIK7BEJG&sprefix=klein+wire+%2Ctools%2C118&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_3_11 If you scroll down the page you will see the wirefy crimps for $33 ..... but does not include all the extra accessories. I assume you can probably buy them separate, just purchase the ones you will use? About specific crimps for barrel connections, I think is a valid question. .... I think it depends on the ends you purchase. Looking at my original barrel ends, they are different. It would take a weird crimp tool to duplicate it. Looking at the few replacement barrel connectors I have on hand, they have the standard style crimp end as any other end available ..... My 15 year old pair of Kliens will crimp them fine .....

1950 Dodge truck 218 ..... should be close to yours. I have 14.5" to the base I have ~2 1/8" to the add line, 2 7/8" to the full line. Now I'm going to look stupid, I do not know how much oil we are suppose to have without looking it up .... I just use my stick. I do not have a external oil filter so I will use a different amount then those that do ..... then are all external oil filters the same capacity? Have any dents in your pan that could limit capacity? The measurements above should get you in the ball park.