johnsartain

Sorry for reviving an old thread but i have to add two things it seems no one mentioned. 1. when testing the sending unit under power especially if it is questionable. remove it completely from the vicinity of the tank and wash it thoroughly to remove fuel. Testing it in the immediate vicinity of the tank can cause a spark and burn your beautiful truck up. 2. When testing a gauge with an ohm meter, use alligator clips. Using your fingers to hold them to the terminals will give a false reading through your fingertips that will be all over the place depending on how hard you pinch the connection.

Don't forget the pictures, lots of them to show the progress along the way. What you learn, we all learn even when you learn it from one of us. Every restoration is just a little different and your experiences help others along the way.

I was hoping to find a nylon, or Teflon grommet but no luck.... yet. I am still looking.

I tried that. I wanted to see if there was ferrous metal under the brass, but it didn't stick.

I can tell you what I did on mine as I could not find a bushing. For the clop I used the e-clip I could find to fit. For the bushing I used a couple of brass Tarp Grommets I got from Ace hardware. They also sell a kit and tool to set the grommet/ It kit is from General and is kit # 71262. The kit has 3/8" grommets.

I haven't had a chance to get back on it again yet. I have been running down a generator/charging problem and a my brake problems. I call them problems, but really not terribly bad after it setting up for so many years, they're all setbacks I'll get past. I did the Rusty Hope conversion a week or so ago, and went to a cherokee 3.55 axle this last week. I still have to bleed the brakes but I will get that done over the holiday. I'll likely work some more on the oil pressure problem

Thanks, Merle, that's what I was needing to know. I had heard there was some issues about splines/no splines, and size there of. I think I'll go ahead and get it then. There are a few cracks here and there. It has to have mine beat, nothing left but the wire in the center. How does the horn ring come of it? for whatever reason the guy sawed it off the steering column.

I am looking for information on what steering wheels will interchange with my 1950 B2B. A guy has a steering wheel with a chrome horn ring. All he can tell me is the wheel came from a 50ish Dodge pickup. What information can anyone give me on this?

I bought that kit as well. The whole deal. kit and parts, was less than $600 and that's buying the parts at NAPA. The kit is only $215 of that and that includes shipping.

Good job! That looks really well made.

John, yours looks just like mine but my trim was brass underneath what little was left of the plating. My trim was broke in the same place. I still have to get a valve for the coolant. I think I want to get s full flow bypass valve rather than just the on/off one. I'm thinking about using this cable actuated valve. https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-74643-Heater-Valve/dp/B000C2UVK0/ref=sr_1_24?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510865503&sr=1-24&keywords=heater+bypass+valve

You usually find a handful of them in the trunk... if it was a car. They do rattle much better this way

Come to think of it, I remember a assembly drawing where I believe there are splash guards on each side of the engine to help to keep dirt and dust out of the engine compartment. Is it possible that this is where those attached? I remember reading somewhere that they were left off for convenience and to reduce heat in the engine compartment.

Understatement of the year, You have a couple of screws loose! Seriously, I have nothing attached at that point on my truck

Was that Utility Bed actually made for that year and model truck, or is it just the one was handy at the time?

great, it is the same price as the Rigid one (there-about). I would rather have the Blue point set. Did you have to drill or just hammer the fluted extractor into the relief valve? Thanks again, Don

Like Merle and Jerry were saying, Check the drum for wobble, tighten the lug bolts to the drum. A 1/16 inch at the outer edge of the drum could correlate to an inch or more at the outer edge of the tire.

Copper-nickel tubing is also DOT certified for brake lines.

Don, This is a link to Snap-on's current solution. https://store.snapon.com/Combination-Extractor-Sets-35-pc-Master-Extractor-Set-P641428.aspx

Don, I found a look-a-like but it says its made by RIGID, still a good tool company though. http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/products.htm?item=35585&ref=gbase&gclid=CjwKCAiAoqXQBRA8EiwAIIOWsuVtuY2Hr3TQFpZwRKCR-qhVJi7yq5qIw0FmLwyQdLmlozwzIYXlzhoCn24QAvD_BwE

I have some of those and tried them. I couldn't get them to bite. I ground mine down on the tip so I could get the upper part of the extractor in the relief valve. It would just get cocked in the end of the valve until I ground it down. That has got to be the hardest metal I have ever seen.

I really appreciate your response Dom, What is the Snap on part number? Can it be used with the engine in the vehicle? What kind of Clearance would be required to use it in the vehicle. On my truck, the cap for the valve is directly in line with the Gemmer steering box. At this point it is whatever it takes!

I began with the thought that if I could get the valve to turn that it would eventually work loose and come out. The nipple extraction tool was a start but wasn't able to go deep enough to get a good bite. It wasn't till i tried the taps that I realized how hard this metal is. The tap won't even scratch it. It could be that I was using a cheap tap. I figure that the valve is rust seized so I am trying PB Blaster in an attempt to dissolve some of the rust. The valve is about an inch long with a 1/2 in section that is solid on one and and a 1/4 inch section on the other. My only goal at this point is to get it out without damaging the block. I haven't given up the pipe tap method just yet but would like some recommendations as to what is the best brand to buy that is hard enough that the thread on the tap won't get messed up. I don't really care if the valve get messed up, I have another. I was also wondering, if it came down to it, if a welding rod shorted to to the inside of the valve would anchor itself well enough to be able to use it to extract it? I would think that cutting the rod short enough to get it into the valve, then with the ground removed place the rod into the valve with the torch handle attached, then attaching the ground. Does this even sound feasible. My hopes would be that enough head would be generated to expand the valve so that once cooled, it might break loose the rust or whatever is binding it. Is this just a totally crazy idea, what are others thought on how this would work? I am open for any ideas.

Before I start getting the "use search" and RTFM comments, I have already searched, and I have tried all the suggestions I could find in this site, notwithstanding that I may have missed one or two but I am going to ask this age old question. How can I remove a stuck relief valve. I have tried using a dowel and wedge, 1/4 npt pipe tap, a 1/2 inch coarse thread tap, a 3/8 nipple extractor. I tried threading a screw into the oil bleed hole in the center of the valve. Of all the methods I have yet to find anything that works for this engine. I have 2 other blocks and the 1/4 npt tap easily extracted the valves from those blocks. If I were starting fresh, knowing what I know now, I may have used one of them instead but the block I chose was the one that was original to the truck. If I had known of this I would have worked it with the engine out, but you all know what they say about hindsight. Does anyone have any other ideas they would like to offer?

It would be a real good idea to box the frame if you plan on dropping the hammer becoming a regular thing! Just my opinion