johnsartain

I'm curious as to what others have used part wise to set up their emergency/parking brake? I want to use the original under dash t handle in my 1950 B2B and connect it to my Cherokee differential. I still have the cables that were on the differential and the equalizer plate. I am most interested in what cable to use that would attach to the t handle and intermediate cabling to complete the set-up.

Yes, it is the last one next to the tailgate.

I have an inspection camera I use, made by Ryobi. It fits through the spark plug hole fairly easy and can angle a bit to see the top of the piston when the intake valve is closed and the piston is toward the top. Works better on overhead valve engines than it does the flatheads though.

Black on both sides. Fender braces are black as well. For a 1950 B2B anyway. I watched a movie on the forum of them painting these parts, definitely black. Could have been because it was a black and white movie. In all seriousness, sand through the paint layers and see what happens. Last color is may be primer but original paint was the semi-gloss black without a primer. Most manufacturers painted these parts the same color inside and out, not different colors for each side. If you want more visibility, use your exterior color inside and out. A lighter color will defiantly be a help when working under the hood.

Happy Birthday Paul, At 80 years you have a huge inventory of events in your life far and beyond what you mentioned. In 80 years think of the differences you have made in the lives you have touched. I'm sure as evidenced by what you have shared with the members of this forum, that your giving goes well beyond this web site and is evident in all your life.

Some of the parts selling shows are OK as long as they stick with actual sources for reproduction and original parts. Not all of us are lucky enough to find complete cars and trucks and most of the stuff missing are fenders, doors, trim parts, etc. From my own experience on my 1950 B2B, a virtual truck in a box, I had a lot of searching to do and created lists of sources and what I planned to get from them, I researched prices and availability as well. Of course, learning a little bit of history about the vehicle and others that may have similar parts that might can be used adds to the fun of it. Phantom Works was nice to watch because of the timelines. People get discouraged when it take longer than a half hour to get their project running but the timelines show you quickly that even professionals will have projects that take up to 2 years or more to complete. Setting goals and building a list of what you plan to do helps keep the project moving. It provides a set of intermediate goals that can be checked off when complete and it helps to visualize progress in completing each milestone.

I ordered my bed strips and angle strips from DCM Classics. As it ended up, they came from Horkey's as well. I guess Bruce Horkey supplies DCM and others as well

I remember seeing GVW and owners name on pickups as a kid in northern Illinois. Some also had another bit of information, For Hire or Not For Hire.

There used to be an even neater and smaller one in the Monopoly game set!

If you have to have up to a 12 v 20 amp power requirement you can get a small alternator for a yanmar or kubota tractor that is quite small. These will require an external regulator to match them. They can be used to operating a 12v car stereo with up to 4 speakers and no amp(an amp can require up to 40 amp power), as well as other 12 v accessories that don't have a lot of power requirements. I suggest using it in conjunction with a small 12v battery such as a motorcycle or garden tractor battery. For power requirements above 20 amp you may as well go with a full size alternator such as the GM 10si.

My truck is a 1950 B2B. I had trouble finding the vents as well. What I did was simple. I used the a narrow vacuum nozzle with the narrow side cut at an angle. They were long enough that I could get two screws into the plastic. For the duct I used the 1-1/2 plastic vacuum hose to run to the heater. Air tight seals were made using the aluminum duct sealing tape on each end of the hose. I kept my eyes open on ebay and the forums for over a year and never saw what I needed so I figured as long as it functioned and got warm air to the slits below the windshield, that was all that mattered. It seems to do the job.

red primer is better for that vintage look

So what is your procedure that you recommend? Drain and flush out with water. Pour in 1 gallon of vinegar and top up with water? Run for how long? Repeat how many times?

We had a joke around work when I mentioned I use molasses to remove rust. It got to the point where we actually pronounced it mole asses for shock value.

How does the vinegar affect a brass/copper radiator? Any issues you can think of? What mix ratio vinegar to water?

A while back someone had asked the question about using molasses to remove rust from the coolant system prior to removing the water distribution tube. It was their hope that it would help in loosening it making the removal easier. Has there been any updates on this as to how well it may have worked? I have one I may attempt to remove soon and suggestions would be appreciated. The one I am removing is stuck pretty solid. Their question concerned draining the coolant and adding the molasses mixture and running it some over a couple of weeks, flushing it and then attempting to remove the water distribution tube.

This should help you a bit in figuring out what sizes to use. Your paint guy did you up a job, I feel your pain. I disassembled my myself so I paid attention to how where things can from and how they went back together. Mine is a 1950 B2B, Bolt sizes were 5/16-24 X1, 1-1/4, and 1-1/2, 3/8-24X 1, 1-1/4, and 1-1/2, 7/16-20X 1, 1-1/4, and 1-1/2. I think that There were some longer bolts, but a box of 50 if each size will get you a long way. Front engine mounting bolts were 7/16-20 thread and 1 inch length will work. The rear mounting bolts for mine were about 7/16-20 and 4 inches long. Mine were missing so I had to do the best I could. DCM Sells the rubber engine mounts and other hardware. VPW has them too. If you use your own bolt for the rear mounts, use grade 8 and drill the end for a cotter pin and use a nylock or self locking nut. The factory lock washers were kind of unique, They were square on the outside, with corners bent down to bite into the metal, and a star pattern on the inside to bite under the bolt head. Re-use these anywhere you can. Where you can't, be sure to use washers and lock washers as appropriate. The inner fenders, hood, floor board, and grille to radiator support bolts are different than all the others. they were of a really coarse thread (sheet metal screw) that was made for a clip on fastener. These will be easy to spot. Save these back for this purpose. If you cant find them you will have to do whatever you have to do. There was one of the years from 53 - 54 that they switched bellhousings and went to a more conventional looking bellhousing that used a crossmember. In 1950 there were bosses on either side of the bellhousing and angle brackets that mounted the engine to the frame. The master cylinder also mounted to the bellhousing. I am not sure as what bolts would be used on the 53 - 54 bellhousing. None of the factory bolts on my truck were coarse thread except for the carriage bolts in the bed. I twisted off a lot of the factory bolts as they were rusted tight. I opted to use stainless bolts, washers and nuts when I went back, particularly for the bed hardware. I did use some of the old bolts where the had would show as the Dodge bolt has a one off head. Some of them have a circle pattern in the head, and some had lettering something like DCPH. Real old vintage bolts had DB on them for Dodge Brothers. Others on here can tell you for sure what they were, mine just had the circles. To restore my bolts I soaked them a couple of weeks in molasses and then washed them off, and then let them soak in a hot container of phosphoric acid. I then primed and painted them flat black.

I believe it will work, I have a NP 435 on my truck which uses the same speedometer gear as the 727. The attachment point for the cable is the same on both transmissions and I am using the cable I got from DCM Classics that is supposed to be a replacement for the stock cable.

Before I had my seat reupholstered, I took the bottom frame off of the springs and replaced the cardboard with 3/16" Masonite. It makes a big difference.

1. Tires Easy has a 22.5X9 https://www.tires-easy.com/9-22.5/triangle-tires/tr685/tirecode/10156850690 2. There are upholstery shops that can mock up the springs for the seat. They are occasionally for sale in some of the Facebook groups and in this forum. On facebook try Pilot House Builds - https://www.facebook.com/groups/618593728345382/ and Dodge Pilot House Era Truck Club - https://www.facebook.com/groups/pilothouse/ They require membership but there isn't a problem. 3. Almost any glass shop can fabricate the windows from laminated flat glass.

If I might offer my approach. I'm more of a do it yourselfer so powder coating was out of the question without buying more tools (hmmm, need more tools). I had about a quart left after painting my fenders and running boards. I had already de-rusted, replace the hub cap clips that were missing, and epoxy primed my wheels. After light sanding, using automotive paint with a hardener, I painted the back side first and coated the under side of the rim (that is hidden when the tire is mounted) with 4 coats of my color and let it dry 2 days. I then laid out 2 - 10' 2X10 boards and covered them with wax paper and taped it to the board, I then place the rims back side down and painted the rims again with 4 coats, including the under side again. It was a week before I had the rubber mounted. I had a couple of rubs on the paint from mounting but I touched them up with an airbrush. Add the Beauty Rings adn hubcaps and walla! I have heard of people making jigs for painting rims out of all thread and funnels, and I am sure one could do it faster that way, but I had plenty of time. You could mount the 1 foot piece all thread to a board, run a nut onto the all thread and place a large fender washer, and a funnel onto the all thread, holding it all in place with a nut. Four of these jigs would come in handy. Place the rim on the funnel, paint, flip when dry to touch, and paint the other side. Let it sit a day or more for the paint to fully cure before mounting.

Rock Auto part number 1315943. You will have to make a 1/4" mounting plate to adapt the two hole master cylinder to the three hole mounting surface on the bellhousing. Unless you have the brake push rod you may have to fabricate one. Master Cylinder https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1315943&parttype=1836https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1315943&parttype=1836 Yoke Clevis, pin, and rod ordered from MSC Direct 82055070 COARSE PITCH 3/8-16 GIBRALTAR TAPPED YOKE 67932723 3/8" DIA X 1 1/8" CLEVIS PIN PLAIN STEEL 70872098 3/8" DIA.X36 8620 STEEL COLD FIN ROUND

I picked up a couple at Ace Hardware that worked for me from the not and bolt section. The have a few drawers dedicated to springs.

On mine, the stock hole where the brake line came through the rails on the passenger side was like you said, in a position where the tire may rub it and just as bad, stretch the line when turned the opposite direction. I re-drilled the hole through the frame to be close to center with the axle to alleviate the problem on that side. The drivers side is a bit if a problem as you have two brackets, one for the steering gear, and the other for the brace from the frame to the cross-member. There was already a hole on the drivers side in about the right location so I used it. It may have been the wrong hole as I totally disassembled my truck to the rails and didn't take pictures of it. I had to replace the brake lines anyway as they were cut. Someone had cut them when they removed the engine. The hoses that Charlie suggests work fine, but they are a bit on the short side and could use an inch or two IMHO.

I bought mine from DCM Classics, Part#B260, $85 each or a set of 4 for $320