johnsartain

I looked up the part number for that caliper bolt that cavisco1 posted, a dead ringer for the bolt picture you put up elsewhere. Have a look yourself. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1133390&jsn=257

Dish washing detergent and lots of it. Put the glass into the rubber, Lube the outer rubber channel and slip a cord into the channel. Lube the metal with the dishwashing detergent as well. You may want to experiment with mixing a little water with the detergent as some say this makes it more slippery. Start the rubber channel onto the metal that the window goes into. Keeping pressure in the glass start pulling the cord from the opposite side gradually working the rubber lip over the metal. It helps to slap the glass with your flat palm, not banging with a fist, or work the cord in a circular motion as you are removing it. The cord I used was paracord.

Yeah, I call BullSh** on Rare parts!

I bought mine at O'Reilly Auto Parts, Monroe-Matic gas filled shocks , #31000 for the front, #32207 for the rear. Worked just fine for me. There was a line they also carried was from Rare Parts, supposed to be original like replacement. Plain old shock, no frills, but they wanted $327 and $227 respectively front and rear. I just can't see the need to pay that kind of price compared to less than $30 each otherwise.

I have a receiver from a while back, I may get it activated again on one of the $25 for 6 month deals. I had one in dash with my Tahoe but wound up selling the Tahoe. Never name your price unless you are truly willing to take it. I should have made the price higher.

I'm more of a talk radio fan than music anymore. Since moving to southern Arizona, my only choices are pop, rap, mariachi, and spanish language. Even though my Spanish has improved, they still speak to fast to understand. Outside of that it will be a new model radio to connect my phone through and play MP3's.

I always did as Andy and Neil said and stripped them back a bit. I noticed on some of the wires that came with my trucks bucket of parts, the wires were metal core and were soldered to the brass clip. The ones I got from tractor supply were metal wire core as well and the brass tips hat a hole in the center I haven't bothered to solder them but I did strip them back and let them poke through the hole folding the excess wire back. I don't have a radio at this point but when I do I will probable go for a silicon core wire. I may even have to add the noise filter to the generator.

I wound up having to go with a new tank. After cleaning the crud out of mine, it was swiss cheese, holes everywhere. It held gas till I cleaned it out. What came out of it was like asphalt.

I went with 5/16 as well, I measures what was left of the original in making my choice.

Yeah, those Jersey Brine Pickles are sure killers!

I decided to go ahead and install the Model 36 heater today, after a 40 mile ride with much improved brakes!

When I bought my distributor cap and rotor at O'reilly's It wasn't a problem but they did need the number off of the distributor to get the right one. For my model year they listed three distributor types. Mine was the IAD distributor. there was also an IAY and an IAO. The information I found on your distributor list it for a 1947 WD15 truck with a 237 CI motor. Standard Motor Products part number AL 138 is supposed to fit that distributor. Rockauto carries it for $8.38, Rotor AL 151 for 6.10 , points AL 4556 PT for 4.58, and condenser AL111T for 3.07. I'm not sure but it's possible that the distributor from the 1947 engine could fit most any of the other L6 dodge engines as ling as it fits the hole and the slot in the oil pump, that's the only real concern besides timing.

That 2% tax was still on motor vehicle sales up until a few years ago I think some states went up to 4% but a most are the regular state tax rate now. Like you said, they have to support those social support programs.

I figure it is sort of related to the issue of why they don't test for parallel parking on the driver's exam any more. It used to be that all parking when you parked on a street was parallel parking. Many cities had laws against entering/exiting on the street side of the vehicle as well. When parallel parked it is sort of dangerous to unlock a vehicle and enter it from the street side. Likely for some of these reasons is why they left the lock off of the drivers side. Just speculation on my part. I am sure there are other answers, maybe even a correct one.

If frame strength is a concern in looking at a frame swap there are other/better options, IMO. You have the option to box the frame, welding metal plates to the open side of the frame. This is easily done for any shop with a welder and Plasma cutter, and is a common tactic of rat rodders and hot rodders on older vehicles. For Dodge vehicles, another common addition was a Dodge K-Member from a older vehicle in a junk yard. Speed parts suppliers such as Jegs even have new, modern, and lighter weight versions for under $500. You woll nee to add your own lower control arms, a frame, spindles, and springs to complete this setup but it give you a motor mount for whatever V8 engine you might decide to put in it.

If you have a TSC or Cal-Ranch store they sell bolts by the pound. If you need a lot of them that can save you money. Particularly on grade 5 and grade 8 pound of steel is a pound of steel. Where I live it is 2.26 a pound, no matter what grade size, bolt, nail, screw, washer or nut.

Like many of you who have installed this conversion kit. I found that the new geometry necessitated having to shorten the tie rod to accommodate the caliper mount backing plates. The weld was ground from the clamp and it was forced down the bar on each end. 3/8 inch was then cut from each end, the clamps were tapped back in place given the same gap from the end. They were then adjusted to give 1/8" toe-in to the front alignment.

It's been a while since I posted on this thread but a few things have happened since October. A few weeks back I got my upholstery done and the seats are back in. We took our first ride, not far, but I just couldnt take it any longer. I was having a lot of trouble getting the brakes to work so when I got it to where I felt safe enough to take it down a country dirt road I loaded up and away we went but they were just too bad for the highway. There was is a crease in the new upholstery wher my ass cheeks were holfon on for dear life. This weekend I took care of that problem for the front end. I did the Rusty Hope Disc Brake conversion. That is sure one easy installation. It went off without a hitch with the exception I had to carry the steering arms to a friends house to drill them, my drill press was to small to handle the job and its speed was too high to cut properly. Here is the finished job.

POR-15 is a good product available at a lot of Hardware stores, auto supply, and Paint Supply. Kleen Strip Prep-n-Etch is a product carried by Home depot and Lowes and other building supply stores. Follow the mixing directions or go stronger. I have used pure undiluted product of each with no bad effects. I do recommend cleaning as much rust as possible from the part to be treated. There no real magic cure for thick rust. It really has no effect on bare unrusted or oxidated metal but most exposed sheet metal will have some degree of surface rust. It converts rust to Iron Phosphate which is a rust inhibited coating. You will notice on even unrusted sheet metal that it gives the metal a dark grayish patina. This is an iron phosphate coating. Both POR 15 and Kleen-Strip say you can paint directly over their product when dry.

Now its all coming together, Red Engine Horns Whistles Ok, Vacuum motor for a siren. Did by chance the engine come out of a Fire Truck?

There were two manifolds that I have seen, I have one of each. The taller one was supposed to help balance and even out the fuel air charge going to the cylinders that were farther out thus increasing power. Did it work? I have been told it did, but I have no experience myself. I would have used my tall one had it not been cracked. The vacuum port is anyone's guess but i don;t remember seeing the port on the back runner of the intake on mine. That's where the vacuum windshield washer connected. I'm sure that the extra dump was an attempt to increase exhaust breathability. So I hear that adding a dual manifold, header, or adding an extra dump helped to increase torque. That one is ridiculous old school.

I have seen a lot of posts about heaters here and on the H.A.M.B and it seems as though there aren't any sources for a 6 Volt heater motor, only the 12 volt one. Maybe a good excuse to do the 12 volt conversion but there is another option if you have access to an electric motor repair business . That would be to have the motor R & R'd. I have seen some that had ball bearings and those that had bronze bearings. Oil may help. Either can be replaced, just need measurements and the mechanical ability to Disassemble and reassemble correctly. Those old motors were made to be repaired.

The main diagram I have seen and it relates directly to my 50 b2b is at http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/wiring_harness/wiring.htm. This diagram is a very basic motor vehicle wiring diagram that does not include a turn signal. I see no reason it would not relate to the 46 unless there is one if the gauge options missing. I had a similar one with turn signals I use for wiring motorcycles only difference is a motorcycle has one headlamp. I used it for wiring my truck sort of as I have it memorized.

I removed the paint that was on the band and I could see that the chrome or nickel has been badly worn in most places. The brass was underneath the paint but had tarnished badly. After stripping the paint, I removed the dents and twists. I buffed it with a red scotchbrite, then green scotchbrite. One end had broken off at some point over the years so I reattached it with solder. I then polished it with a cotton buff wheel and the white buffing compound to a bright brass finish. I then cleaned it with acetone, let dry and applied clear coat to preserve the bright brass finish from tarnish.

Only in the Illustrations, Charlie. I take that those are hard to find. I suppose you are referring to Intake 1-53-7 in the upper left corner?