johnsartain

That is the oil pump. If you will take notice it is aligned with the distributor in the opposite side of the motor. In these engines the gear is on the oil pump rather than the distributor which can make timing the engine a bit trickier if the oil pump is removed as the top of the oil pump shaft is slotted for the end of the distributor shaft.

There is a woodruff key that keeps its position in relation to the shaft

2nd row below is likely the fresh air damper and the water valve for the heater.

I never was a believer much in the bad gas thing until a couple of years ago. I had a dirt bike that had sat over a year that I guess I forgot to put sta-bil in as I usually do. I got it out and tried to kick it over, with no luck. I had spark, compression, fuel I could hear ot sloshing in the tank. I decided to look in the tak to see ho much was there and it smelled like old paint thinner. I drained it and walla! I started first kick. I wound up cleaning the carb out because it had a problem idling. Probably gummed up the idle jet.

This is a look at the rear ones from amazon

It appears that there are holes in the top of the fenders, I wonder of that's where a previous owner had turn signals mounted. Nice looking truck, BTW.

Steve, Vacuum wipers will work ok, get a small oiler and squirt some brake fluid in them and try to work the rotor end back and forth. You should hear it sucking and blowing as you work it back and forth. As a final test, hook it to an engine vacuum line, flip the valve on it and it should go to work. letting the brake fluid sit in it for a bit will help liven up the leather seals in the motor. If you should decide to replace it, it is a toss up as to whether you would like to switch over to electric, it costs about the same. Mine worked ok, I live in Arizona, so the only real time I use them is during monsoon season. I added directional signals to my truck. For the front I ordered the pigtails and sockets from DCM classics, Part #LE-761. For the rear tail lights they have some at 85 each but you have to get the bulb, wires and mounts all separate. I ordered mine in stainless steel from amazon at 38 each. I had to buy 6V bulbs but not a problem. I went ahead and got the mounting brackets from DCM. The wiring for mine was a 3/8 inch flex conduit whip. It came with 1/2 inch push in connectors that fit the round hole in the bed sidewall perfectly. Snyder's Antique Auto had the shields, A-13467-SS , for the back of the light for 6.25 each. The shield crimps around the flex conduit to hold it fixed to the light. There are several options for the turn signal switch, but none are self canceling. I bought a United Pacific switch Model A5007 from amazon for less than 20. It's the same one that Speedway and Summit Racing sell. It was easy to hook up. Very easy to read instructions and wiring diagram. You will have to buy a 3 prong flasher in whatever voltage your truck is wired for.

My problem was that I never had one with the gauge. Someone had already taken it for their vehicle. it had been removed from the truck. When I mentioned in the original post that I had a truck-in-a-box, it wasn't a joke. A good many of the parts were there but there were also a few missing, this being one of them. The engine was removed and there was a line lying in the bed with both ends cut off and the gauges were one of the parts that were in a box in the cab. Bit it's all good now, this may be the very last part I need except a new set of locks and keys.

Thank you so much, John! I really appreciate that!

Ok, They did look out of place. I know they were on mine but was sure about if they belonged without having ever seen the inside of another 1950 B2B. I got to looking for the ones I took off, but it appears I am missing them at the moment. They appeared to be more like the garment rod hangers they put centered over the door of passenger cars. I guess there may have been a problem with the sun visor sagging, ther reason they were put there.

Sure, I could use that. It appears to be exactly what is needed. Address will follow in a pm.

That has to be something a previous owner added, My 1950 B2B didn't have anything above the Steering column. I browsed the parts manual I have and there wasn't anything I could reference the would come close to what you have described thus far. The picture would remove any ambiguity.

Ok here goes, Back in the the 50's they didn't have cell phones but they did have clipboards,. They hung them there so they could text while they drive. Seriously though, all jokes aside, the only thing I can think of that you may be refer to as a hook may be the one to each side of the mirror that the sun visor would tuck into.

I am trying to find out what the thread size and pitch is for the fitting that screws into the back of an oil gauge for a 1950 B2B pickup. After looking through through the forums, in search of my answer, I have found several clues but no winner as of yet. Here are the runners up... 5/16-24 - too small 3/8-24 bolt thread- wrong thread but close. 3/8-24 thread in an inverted flare fitting - wrong thread but close. 1/8 - npt - to big There was one member that suggested it may be a pilot line fitting but there are three sizes, 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 inch sizes based on the diameter of the tubing. These fitting are the only ones I haven't tried. It may come to a point where I am left to having to try and thread it to the 3/8-24 thread for the inverted flare fitting or the 1/8 npt. I'm not sure what problems that could create and I would really rather not go that route. Advice anyone? This is another part missing from my truck-in-a-box.

Serial Number 86008516 Year 1950 Make Dodge Model B-2-D Engine 230 Flathead Six Wheelbase 116, 126 Rating 1 Ton Engineering Code T176 Plant San Leandro, California Build Number 16

Here is something I thought odd, but I may be useful to you. In a reprint of the original B2B drivers manual, page 17 reads, "If the truck is used on long hauls or for heavy duty service, use no.10W engine oil blended with 10% colorless refined kerosene. I'm not sure how this would help or even be classified for heavy duty use but I'm sure it could definitely be useful for purging out oil ways and the oil gallery, maybe even wash crud from the oil sump."

I missed it, all I saw was the horn kits. But you're right they do have the wire. The kit would have been ok in a pinch but I have my eyes on a Grant steering wheel and horn kit.

Thanks Guys, I heard about the wire being different a while back and looked all over online for something that might work. I was interested in others experience with it. When I browsed this thread it reminded me of that and saw Keven had one of the best wire sources I have seen for vintage wire. I might have done mine different had I known of it sooner but I hand wired mine weeks ago. Not all that different from the motorcycles I have built and wired.

B1BKeven, I understand that there is a special wire for the horn button. Some of the kits come with a wire. I was tole that is was a stainless steel cored wire that was resistant to breakage. Have you found a source for it. I didn't see it on Tom's engine barn.

If you really wanted left and right indicators on the dash, it really wouldn't be that difficult. Only reason not to is if you want the car correct for that year, otherwise there are lots of electronics companies that sell panel lamps that could be used for separate indicators. https://www.amazon.com/Alpinetech-Metal-Signal-Indicator-Pilot/dp/B01JFA9W7M/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1506627487&sr=1-2&keywords=6%2Bvolt%2Bpanel%2Blamp&th=1

A reprint of the owners manual i bought recommends 80W or 90W Hypoid oil. These pages are for a 1949 B1.

The engine I decided to use was partially torn down and lying in the bed of the truck fully exposed to the weather. It had been in the bed an untold number of years. As you might assume it was fully stuck. I had to use a 20 ton press, courtesy of Harbor Freight, in order to press the pistons out.I bew the seals in the first 20 ton jack and returned it for another to finish the job. I heard the pistons popping and creaking all the way out of the bore even when thoroughly lubed. If you're a mechanical sort, just go ahead and get you a press. If you're like me you already had wished a thousand times you had one. Now you have a good excuse.

The Third cross member, the one second from the tailgate, uses a rubber bumper pad with a bump on it that fits in the hole in the frame. There are a lot of people who add the extra bolts rather than using the rubber bumper pad. I can't think of any harm it does to have the extra bolt unless you are trying to do a restoration to the exact configuration it came from the factory. My truck was a B2B, the third cross piece had the holes there for it and they aligned perfectly with the one in the frame rails. I opted for the extra bolt.

You may be bent on using a turn signal switch from the period of your car but the more modern version Signal-Stat 900 works with the brake light to make it circuit for the rear and the parking light for the front. Here is its wiring diagram. It sort of animated as well.

Here ya go, Lucas has them, be sure you get the offset valve flap http://www.lucasclassictires.com/Tubes-Flaps-Rim-Strips_c18.htm