johnsartain

Seriously? I was hoping I just didn't read that, but I have to stick my 2 cents worth in. I would hope that no one would stick anything with an electrical connection into a open bucket full of gas. All it takes is one spark to ignite the fumes and cause a fire or explosion. I wouldn't even post this even as a joke. The only reason they work without igniting the fumes in the gas tank is the density of the gas fumes and the lack of oxygen to support combustion.

Try a little schmoozoing! Some times people just want their stories to be heard and appreciated. They want to know that you will have the same sentiments about the vehicle as they do. That and a bit of cash, helps a lot!

I'm not sure about your cars but i found new escutcheons for my 1950 B2B at DCMClassics.com

A day after I responded, I sent an email to Steve Flokstra at DCM hoping he had some used ones. Turns out he had new ones for $10. I got one on the way.

I see you're in Canada but sears should ship to there They have a set, with the thin long profile that works well for tappets so much they named them Tappet Wrenches. $18.99 US a set plus shipping. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-standard-tappet-wrench-set/p-00947415000P

Rockwood? Are you talking about a source for the door spring? I would like information on that if you have it!

What model was the first one out of? Any idea, and what might be you price? Message me on that.

Rebuilding and refurbishing through American and local R&R shops is about the only way to keep your American Made parts, American. After my rebuilding of my 1950 B2B, I discovered on the many trips to NAPA, O'Reilly, Auto-zone, Rock Auto, etc... everything is made overseas. I can't recall any part I bought at these retailers not being made in Japan, China, Korea, or Taiwan. I did find that the Corvette Master Cylinder I purchased was made in Canada. I don't think that there are any parts houses other then the ones selling NOS and Re-manufactured. Most of the parts on my truck were so rusted that getting them apart impossible. The wheel cylinders cracked under the stress. Grease Gunning them wouldn't budge them. Generator, Starter, Carbs were all missing. At the time I needed them, I could find everything but the starter. Wilson Auto Electric had the best deal on a re-manufactured starter through O'Reilly for i think was 225.00.

Maybe a turbocharged Hyabusa engine. I bet there are quite a of those laying around from all the wrecks. Chain drive and a live rear axle would work well since there doesn't appear to be a rear axle anyway. People are bragging about 650 hp out of one of the 1400 cc models.

I'll try to document my adventure in removal of a stuck oil pressure relief valve for others who may have a similar problem. Many of you will not have to go to the extremes I did and only need to try some of them. Maybe this will be a source to consider should you ever encounter similar problems. Symptoms: Excessive oil pressure can be noted by a pegged oil gauge. If your engine is equipped with an oil filter, oil may be forced past the oil filter gasket. Spin on filters may blow the gasket out of the oil filter no mater how much you tighten the filter. The high oil pressure reading may be only at startup and may be followed by low oil pressure afterward. Oil pressure relief valves can stick both ways, sticking closed at startup and open after warm up and exhibit low oil pressure. Remedy: An initial attempt at determining how stuck your relief valve is can give you some clue as to how far you will have to go to fix your problem. A newly installed relief valve that is well lubricated should easily slip in and out of its bore by inserting the tip of you pinky finger and pulling it out. In my case I started with it completely stuck and rusted fast. The best advice to start with is to attempt to lodge a 1/4 npt pipe tap into the end of the relief valve piston. the tip of the pipe tap may need to be ground down to facilitate a tight fit without bottoming out in the end of the piston. Use an open end or adjustable wrench to turn the pipe tap while taping the square end of the tap. The metal the piston is constructed of is case hardened and the threads of the tap will have difficulty biting into the metal. With a flash light, look past the tap to see if the piston is turning in the bore. If not, spray with PB Blaster and continue to work it alternating spraying and tapping the tap while turning it with a wrench. At some point if you are failing to make headway, it may be necessary to apply heat. The ability to concentrate as much heat to the inside of the relief valve piston will reap the most reward. An Acetylene torch will work best if you are fortunate enough to have one. Mapp gas can also work but you will not be able to concentrate the flame as much. Alternating the method mentioned in the last paragraph and heating with the torch. I found for my case which was one of the more extreme I had to heat the piston to red and allow it to cool before using the pipe tap and tapping. It may take a while but several heatings and coolings will gradually help to loosen the stuck valve. Do not heat the metal so much that you are seeing the metal melt and flow. Heat it slowly to red, and let it cool. The heating of the metal will serve two purposes. First the heating and contracting of the metal affects the hardened piston and the cast block differently. The piston will expand in the bore of the cast block and spread the bore slightly. as the metal cools the casting will tend to retain it shape while the hardened metal will more/less return to its original shape. The piston will also lose its hardness or temper making it easier for the pipe tap to get a bite. I'm my case the piston lost enough temper and the pipe tap got enough bite that the piston could then turn in its bore. I the used some emery cloth to shine up what was visible of the bore. I chucked the pipe tap in a drill and began working the pipe tap/piston back and forth in bore and gradually was able to pull the piston out. I cleaned up the bore best that I could so that the new piston was able to move freely in the bore. There were no easy remedy's in my case. Persistence and elbow grease, an acetylene wrench, accompanied with a little percussive persuasion was what it took to get the job done.

Ah... So death by a thousand cuts. Tempered and Laminated glass are both safety glass. The phrases tend to get thrown around loosely and depending on the part of the country you come form it a tomato/potato thing. Franks answer seems to hit the nail on the head. The reason for my asking was that after replacing my windows with laminated, there is resistance to rolling the glass up and down. It could be that the seals I got for the door glass were actually set up for Tempered glass thickness which is a bit thinner than the lammie.

That kit is a very good price. I did not see where it specified but are the door and vent window glass safety or laminated? My son works for a glass company who cut mine. Although I got a discount, I wouldn't have balked at that price.

Thanks!

What is the ISBN number for that book, there are 4 of them, just to make sure I get the right one.

That isn't it but it does make a lot of sense. I think I will replace my cam bearings and set them up that way. Opening up the timing sprocket oiler tube a bit sounds like a good idea as well.

Thank you, I found it. I wonder if the part mentioned is still available or what the specs on it would be.

Is this part to restrict the oil to the camshaft still available?

I know that I have read this on the site but I can't recall whether it was the truck forum or the auto forum. Either way, I can't find it. I recall reading that someone recommended adding an orifice to the oil way leading from the crank to the camshaft. The reasoning was that it helped to ensure that there was ample oil supply to the mains and connecting rods. Has anyone else seen this thread and can you point me that way?

After years of Photo shopping his head onto Fabio Lanzoni's body for posting on dating sites, Don has finally devolved into this, tsk, tsk!

Of what I have seen in this thread, drilling a new hole sounds like a pretty sound solution. Another option that I haven't see mentioned is to remove the outer race from the hub and take the disc and hub to a machine shop to have the outer bearing seat cut about a quarter inch (or whatever it would take to get the setback needed) deeper. That extra depth should give the necessary clearances to use the nut as designed. You will no longer have a stock hub but if the brakes are maintained properly, you should never have to replace them in your life time. If you do, just take the new set to a machine shop for the same treatment.

As you can see, I have an obsession as well. Motorcycles and Powersports

Steve, Care to sell a choke or throttle cable and choke knob, nut included? Let me know of you can.

Same here, Actually I bought stainless carriage bolts. They worked great and no slot. The square was large enough to press into the metal without turning.

Merry Christmas to all, and a most joyous and prosperous New Year!