1949 Wraith

The previous owner of my '51 swapped out the column to a top loader floor shift from a pre 50's unit. A home made bracket on top of the transmission holds the end of the parking brake cable case, while the internal cable attaches to the engaging part of the parking brake. The dash mounted parking brake handle is still used by bringing the cable up to the top of the transmission.

I have the 1938 Canadian D10. Mine originally only came with the single rear light. I was able to find the matching light and lense and base on Ebay.

Run some chalk over the timing marks to help them stand out when you are stobing. You know how to loosen the distributor and rotate to adjust timing?

For a quick cheap fix you might want to try, "SealsAll". Drain your oil clean up the seam, apply. Stuff has been around forever and is gas and oil resistant.

My '41 Chrysler running fine and then it would not start. Replaced parts one at a time, coil, distrutor cap, and when I replaced the rotor she ran like a charm. There did not look like any wear on the rotor but that was my no start issue. Replace your rotor and see if it works.

Nice looking original truck. Enoy the journey.

Very nice.

You could also attend car swap meets in your area. Ask vendors who are carrying old car and truck parts if they know of anyone that has your model and possible parts. You will start to make local contacts who might know someone who has what you are looking for.

I have purchased carb kits from Mike's. He was helpful in finding the kit for my Rolls and I have purchased kits for my Chrysler. Send him the model of your carb and He will suggest the rebuild kit needed. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/

Your carb is vented so there should be no pressure build up in the float bowl.

Do you have a vacuum line coming off of either of your carbs to the distrubutor vaccum advance? It looks like they should come off the lowest part of a carb. I would try plugging both holes if you have a vacuum advance line and see if you have any noticable difference in performance.

I thought the steering boxes took 90 weight gear oil. If there is grease in your steering box I thought that was an old farm fix for a leaking steering box. Have you checked the level in your steering box?

Join you might want to post your inquiry in the car section of the forum for a better response.

The previous owner of my '38 Dodge sedan installed this unit and it works fine. An alternative if you do not need a stock look.

I would take advantage of the split manifold and and put on dual exhaust. It helps the engine breath, as the rear cylinder has basically no back pressure and loads at the front. I had the manifold cut on my '38 Dodge 218 and she works very nice, the heat riser area was cut out and I have never had issues with cold running even in below freezing temperatures. I will probably do the same to my '51 Dodge truck when I locate a spare exhaust manifold.

I ordered and installed the Mar-K stainless bed and side rails in my truck. their side angle rails match the hole placement of the bed rails, so i had to drill 2 new mount locations other than that things fit nice.

Your truck should be the same as mine. I just replaced the tubes to the defroster on mine and I used the old carb preheater tubes from the 70's, two for the drivers side and 1 for the passenger. My outlet had an inside diameter of 1.75" used the Dorman units, very robust and good accordian stretch and bend, cost around $10 from Rock auto for all 3.

No 2 separate units, the one with the doors you open to heat the interior and probably close to force air to the defoggers

The top one would probably need to be turner the other way to have the demist outlets face left. Probably just need wire an on\off switch and open or close small doors to direct heat. My truck has a valve on the head that you open or close at the begining of the hot or cold season. Both heaters could probably be adapted see which one is in the best shape and go from there.

Your heater valve opening on the engine head are the hoses getting warm?

I used an old paint brush and lightly coated all sides of the spring packs with some used oil. It did improve the ride and after about 100 miles rusty oil was weaping out between the springs cleaned up fairly easy.

Thanks this is is something to consider. I have a manual choke so that is not an issue and I knew I would have to make some linkage if I went with anything thicker than a plain heat sheild. I have gotten lazy I use the throttle knob on the dash. My throttle peddle had a bend in it from previous owners stompin their heal on it.

I have the hot start issue with my '51 Dodge truck. She starts right up when cold, but if you stop and have a coffee say 15-20 minutes she will not start on the first crank. Iif you stop for an hour she will start right up she is a 12 volt conversion so she cranks fast. I installed heat sheild on the fuel pump and installing an switched aux electric fuel pump and that does not change my hot starts when used. Hot starts are improved with some open throttle, hard to do without engaging accelorator pump. So in my case I believe my issue is flooding due to fuel perculation. I have tried setting the fuel level lower in the carb with no noticeable effect. I plan on making a heat shield for the carb this winter and I have been looking for an 3\8" insulated spacer like the GM trucks had. No luck finding one of those yet.

Have you checked with DCM they have some shackle parts. \https://dcmclassics.com/24-Suspension-Parts?id_category=24&n=42

I just made up a wiring harness for my '51 using Allan Parkhurt's notes, lots of excellent information. I have a 12 volt conversion and used all the original gauges, plus I added a small fuse panel and some relays.