1949 Wraith

I have a fluid drive in my '41 Chrysler Club Coupe with the Vacamatic semi automatic trans. Most of the higher end Chrysler's had the semi auto trans and fluid drive trans after 1941, the main reason I never looked at buying one. It is interesting concept. but I would prefer a standard transmission and clutch. A couple of points; the fluid in the fluid drive is another potential source for contaminating your clutch, you should not have any wear on your clutch with fluid drive. I think the bell housing\transmission will be longer so you will need to modify your driveshaft as well.

Anyone know if the '46-47 half tons have 1.75" centers for the wheel cylinder backing plate bolt mounts?

Dozerman, I had not come across the 39-47 Dodge Group before. I applied to join this morning. Thank you for your suggestions I have been looking for a parts book for this era of truck.

Dozerman, Thank you for the reply. Do those numbers carry on to the 1946 model year? I am mainly concerned that the wheel cylinder mounting holes, on the 1946 model years, stay at 1.75" centers to fit the 1942 backing plates. Since the shoes are the 10" everything else should fit.

Thanks Ed. My present cylinders are 1 3\8" both sides (maybe not original). I am hoping the later models are the stepped units the same mount size.

I am doing the brakes on my '42. For the wheel cylinders I can find listings for the '46 and '47 model years, but I have not found listings for the pre war trucks. 1946 listings, CENTRIC 13467022 for the left sides and CENTRIC 13467021 for the right sides Were there changes to brakes from 1942 to '46? I think both were stepped 1 1/4 and 1 3/8 bores. I am concerned if the 1.75 centers mounts in '42 went to 2.00 centers in '46? Does anyone have a parts list for wheel cylinders and backing plates than include the model years of '42 and '46 to see if they changed? Thank you for your assistance.

I install an electric fuel pump on my vintage vehicles, to prime the fuel bowls before starting on the cars that sit longer between rides. Airtex makes a unit that is 6 volt and in the 5-8 psi range and usually available at RockAuto. I only prime for about 6 seconds so the higher psi is not really an issue. The units are meant to push the fuel not pull it so they should be located near the fuel tank. They come with a small filter, but I place my normal fuel filter before the pump. I have not heard of issues where it needs to be below the tank but that might be people installing the pump as a pulling unit. I have 5 of these units both 6 and 12 volt and not had any issues with them, reasonably priced at around $30 and supposed lifetime warranty. unfortunately the 6 volt is presently out of stock. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=293409&jsn=3

The linkage rod thatgoes where your arrow points is about 5 inches long

I put one of these on my 51 Dodge to replace a old failing 12 volt converter. The real nice thing about these units that you can control the voltage output with an adjustable screw on the back of the unit. My fuel gauge is very accurate now. I went to the Drok site and ordered and it was shipped form Singapore to Canada at a very reasonable price. https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Voltage-Regulator-Waterproof/dp/B07P663XJV/ref=pd_di_sccai_1/143-9633860-4801821?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07P663XJV&pd_rd_r=9e9003f5-d511-44b7-9697-e283fc5cba7c&pd_rd_w=JbEF7&pd_rd_wg=WQYDn&pf_rd_p=5415687b-2c9d-46da-88a4-bbcfe8e07f3c&pf_rd_r=JNH378GQAK0E06089C92&psc=1&refRID=JNH378GQAK0E06089C92 I just picked up a '42 Fargo but she is staying close to original.

I took delivery of my Canadian 1942 Fargo FL1 (WC) yesterday. She is fairly stock other than 15" rims and radials, plus 80's red velour covered bench.

The truck is a 35 year old restoration that has harfly been used. Previous owner had it for 41 years. She a good base and will clean up nice. Bondo in the fenders, but the running boards and cab are fantastic. I think I would like to tone down the red by painting the fenders and boards black. Just make sure your son knows, not to sell if for what you told your wife you paid for it.;)

I put a deposit on this 1942 Fargo today. Owner took me out for a drive and he shifted it like it had syncro. Then again he owned it for 41 years

Thanks I put a deposit on this today. 1942 Fargo

Looking great. I love driving my '38 Dodge. Radial tires and 3.23 rear end and she drives like a dream.

My temp gauge stopped working this past winter when I rewired my 51 Dodge truck. I installed a temporary underdash unit until I find an original replacement. This unit was $10 US and free shipping to Canada. Sender was a direct screw into my 218 and is an electrical sensor, 2 inch gauge with mount. This is the one I got but there are lots similar on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/163820684124

I had a 1964 MGB 48 years ago, that the syncro in second had been chewed out, so I had to double clutch back then. I live on a rural highway I'm just thinking these fancy tractors are going to be passing me while i'm going thought the gears.

One of the trucks I am considering is registered as a 1944 and a beautiful restoration other thatn the original olive green. It would be a shame to mess with the originality. I have my '51 that has a modern rear end in that I drive a lot and can handle highway speeds.

I have a T5 out of an S10. Much of a hastle adapting? The overdrive would be a bonus.

MY B3B is a bit grabby in reverse. I was able to basically eliminate it by adjusting the clutch with a little more pedal free play

Thanks there is a local 42 that is non syncro and a 47 that is 5 hours away that I am hoping will have the syncro era 3 speed

I am looking at some pre war WC trucks. Did the post war 46-47 3 speed units come with syncromesh in 2nd and 3rd? Thanks

My 1938 Dodge sedan would slip especally as the clutch got hot. When I changed the clutch it looked like my issue was fatigued springs on the pressure plate. This could be a possible issue with your clutch instead of oil.

I would rather have grease all over. It's more likely king pins, ball joints and suspension at least saw some life saving mantenance once in a while. Scraper, wire or stiff bristle brush with a solvent of your choice and lots of rags.

My 1946 Oldsmobile 98 has a 3 speed column shift. the reverse light is activated when the linkage in reverse buts up to a switch. You could make something like that to work, an example were the late 40's Chev truck brake switches that were a lever arm switch

Most likely you are seeing the float moving more because there are no baffles in the fuel tank. like modern vehicles. If the tank is full to the top does your gauge not bounce as much when you have bumps in the road? On my truck my gauge hardly moves when full on a bumpy road, but at 2/3 full on the same road the needle swings alot more. Assuming you have original gauge, sender and 6 volt system.