rb1949

The new link displays hits, which seem to be quite a few. Did the old location get as many visitors? Finding buyers is another story. I've contacted several posters 'wanting' stuff with tips/leads, but never got a reply.

Back here again. Re-wiring inside the trunk is done, and things work. Dumb cold came back stopping work. Finished rebuilding the heater control assembly. Even restored the rusty bumper jack. Ha. Today loosened nut on temp sensor in block. Y'all are right, the sensor 'bulb' in there doesn't budge. Soaking now. Heeding your advice about the freeze plug above it, and saw another post about removing it. Better check a replacement plug first. That one inch hole gives you enough access to wiggle it? Is a new plug just pounded into the hole? Copper plug or? Looks like just a 'nut' attaches it to the gauge? Maybe not as easy as I think. Hoping for success, and being able to remove the instrument cluster. Have slight ambition to try and accomplish something. Everything seems to toss is a few new extra challenges to get anywhere. I'm trying to keep up with a 'log book' of activities. Maybe I should write a manual pertaining to direct experiences with the goofy '49 Chrysler,

Clever way to tailgate.

Nice, and a perfect fit.

Thanks. Some good ideas, suggestions and options. Will report if there is any action on this possible "to do" project.

No seams here, just a big hood. The undercoat spray crossed my mind. The fiberglass pads are 4' x4', one not enough. Yes, consider weight, the hood is heavy enough now. Plus the weight of the material, being held upside down. Would the adhesive withstand under hood conditions, and keep it up there. Thought there was a thin foam type product. No hurry. Thanks.

Have seen topics where people have used sound deadner/insulation on headliners, door panels and firewalls. A multitude of material choices. Which gets covered up. How about under the hood? A common material seems to be that black mat fiberglass stuff. No clips, it would need an adhesive. These old cars have gigantic slabs of tin called a hood. That familiar 'bang' when closing it. Eliminating the bang is more important than trying to 'insulate'. Anybody done it? Any recommendations of material? Or adhesive? Did it last, and work? Your experience and suggestions welcome.

Never looked inside a horn. Good luck getting some great sounds. My wish list is to put a pair of the magnificent trumpet horns on my newer compact. They HONK!

Never touched mine for 23 years, and they were used when I got it.

Cool tool. Thanks. Getting closer. Using "tamper proof" produced lots of results, including a variety of 5/16 hex size. But the tamper pin on the screw is not very long, so the hole in the hex is not very deep. The center needs to be drilled thru, to slide over the 3/16 switch shaft diameter. There is a hole, already centered, that could be enlarged. But can this hex bit material be drilled? Various tools in that size range from $8-$14. My investment for a 5/16 hex coupling was $1.49, and easy to drill the center hole. It works. Plus it's a tool that has only one application, to remove 5 bezels. It will never be used again. It seems this hex bezel design was only used on '49 - '50 Chrysler. (not all Mopar for those years). I'm happy to provide the discussion regarding a tool. It will go into the archives, and perhaps someone in the future will find it via a search, giving them the tip they need for a solution to a problem. With this "oddball" '49, sometimes it feels like I'm talking to myself here, but again the facts/tricks/tips may be useful to someone else.

Like license plates, the fonts are usually custom design. Have no idea what it looks like, but can you take a picture and manipulate it in a graphics program?

Polished up the chrome heater control assembly, cleaned & repainted the cable control arms, and reassembled using nuts on switches. With no bezel for the knob to slide into, the nuts were visible. Hmmmm, needed a spacer to fill that gap and cover the nut. A stubby piece of PVC pipe did the trick as a 'bezel'. More gossip. This buggy has a heater motor and a defroster blower motor (both are the same motor) While most talk is about the heater under the dash, my heater is way out by the radiator. That's a long way to blow warm air. It only has a diverter valve in the heater hose to stop water flow into the heater, mounted on the firewall. Wonder if the heater could be moved 2' closer and mounted on the firewall? Guess anything is possible with clever fabrication. Better yet, stop thinking and don't drive when it's cold. Got more important projects to tackle.

If this is ever necessary, the tip about bypassing the battery is one I hope to remember. That advice has been given several times in posts about jump starting.

The tool is cool. And I'll correct myself from the title of this post, it's not a knob tool, it's a bezel tool. I'm going to say that multiple bezels fit this switch shaft threads, just different designs. It's a 7/16 diameter. If anybody has measured, please advise. The bezels with 'pin holes' look the best. Took one to work today with the intention of finding a die to re-thread the shaft to a normal nut. Low and behold, we make a switch that has the same thread. And the nut fits. No more dumb Chrysler bezels needed. Throw them away!! Now the knob. I believe that metal clip in there hooks onto the bezel. More dumb, making things difficult. The knob & shaft have a flat, to make it turn. Trim off the clip a bit.. And no set screw needed. Getting closer to improving things so they work.

Looked like a little BBQ grill out there. Why not the normal, taller fat one?

Have fun with the new buggy. Start your list of projects, many here can help with the challenges ahead.

Mr. Clean will be stomping that pedal under sunny skies. The shop is as spiffy as the car!

Start with a picture and your exact model. Have you seen pictures of one removed, to get an idea where the mounting screws are?

Manual, for 1838? That's old.

Searching found nothing regarding these hex head bezels, nor any mention of a tool. But then spotted a bit, mentioning fabricated bezels for the 49-50, WITH tool. Had to inquire. This guy makes reproduction bezels out of brass. But made them using a 'pin' tool, not the original hex. Sharp looking, I'd say a decent improvement. Didn't ask price. Interested persons can do their own inquiring at: www.harmsdistinctiverestorations.com So I'll toss out another dumb question. What's the difference, besides design. Were the threads on the switch shaft the same for lots of years? So it may be possible to use different bezels that fit the threads. I doubt there is a cross reference to that trivial piece of data. Shafts also look 'normal' for a variety of knobs. Evaluating the originals to tap for a set screw.

Grumpy is back. But this time with better news. Fine tuned the tool a little more and got it to work. At least on the heater control bezels. The picture now shows the dang bezels and the hex head. Looks like more minor filing to fit the dash bezels. Had the chrome under dash heater control out for other work. And had a better looking spare, so dismantled them to swap parts. Got 2 good switches out of 4. Now to figure out how to attach switches with a real nut and throw those bezels in the weeds . Plus set screws in the knobs and pitch that goofy spring clip design. Original sucks. No I'm not going to sell a tool. You can make one for $1.49. Knob tool .... case closed.

Haven't looked at the actual wiring, but my '49 has 2 separate brake lites, plus the 2 parking/turn signal lamps. Always something different. But same nasty wires.

Sharp and smooth. Send some ambition this way.

Forum Searches do take lots of time, to read the many topics/replies. But doing so, I have picked out many valuable tidbits of info from the been there - done that folks. Things not found elsewhere.

Sand in the toes is part of summer. And it's fresh water. Stay late with a beer and enjoy the colors.