rb1949

Snake up a thin piece of stiffer galvanized wire to use as a pull. I'm using some of the flexible and abrasion resistant SXL auto wire, 16 Ga. My top end is just soldered to the brass 'cup', no end terminal up there. '49 Windsor.

Just spotted this pix of a '48 front seat.

Great project and documentation. More ambition than me.

4' wide rubber in various designs and thickness can be bought by the foot. I got some from http://www.rubbercal.com/ Some on sale, some with free shipping. No problem for a flat area.

Have fun with the new toy. Are all the tires that nice? Knuckle got you started on a process of elimination for the electrical problem. Good luck tracking down the culprit. Sounds like the battery does hold the charge if disconnected, so doubt it's a bad cell in the battery itself.

Advice with pictures appreciated. But weather delays again, wet & cool. The garage is a bit small, and dark. Although this is an interior project. Could screw a 4' shop light up inside the car. Will be picking up new pigtails for the rear lamps (that springy contact thing inside the socket). This topic will stay active as necessary, and will probably start another for other issues. Searching old topics also pops up some good information. If you're new, use it. Thanks to all who have jumped in to help.

Reading with interest about this handy item. Do like the thought of pressurizing instead of the regular pump handle. Smaller units are available. Dumb question, but how much fluid do you start with in the tank? On the average, how much fluid is expelled for a normal 4 wheel bleed?

Can't answer any of your questions. But good looking. Enjoy.

Thanks for the tips. Just don't start with oil line removed. (Unless it can be capped?) Whoops, speedo test would need extra speedo cable. Foiled again. Was out there for an hour and got cold. Like your table top cover .... Mopar thinking juice.

The cluster is going to have to be removed and get it out of the way. Looks like the temp & oil can be removed at the gauge(?) If not, they need to be disconnected under the hood and pulled thru the firewall grommet. If successful, then the housing that the cluster mounts into should come off, providing yet a bigger opening to work. Test question: with speedometer in hand, what's a good way to spin it and see if it works OK? A drill?

Looks perfect. Too bad it will have to get dirty while waiting.

Fiddling around the left dash, found another Map Light. Ha. Of course, no bulb. Now it works, and have two. Finally pulled out the fuel gauge. Yikes, what delicate thread-like wires on that thing. Don't drop it. Odd balance, when you hold it upside down, the needle goes to F. Gave it a dab of oil. So needle moves. Tests OK across terminals. Sending unit was back out. It tests within Chrysler specs for resistance. Let's jump this thing together with gauge out. Power to gauge. Gauge to ground. Unit to gauge. Unit to ground. Operate float, and the dang thing is working!! Up & down, E to F. WOOHOO! Just in time for a couple cold weather day delays, and a hailstorm. Better today, so put gauge back in the cluster. Sending unit back in tank. Soldered a wire to the locking retainer ring to run to ground. Jumped new wire from unit to gauge. Power to gauge. Needle registered about 1/3, which is about how much gas was in the tank. Thank goodness for results. Attached new wire to unit and under the carpet to the side. Have obtained all supplies to begin constructing a new 8 wire harness from front to back. Can install it, somewhere. New wires to lamp sockets in the trunk shouldn't be too bad. Trying to figure out the front is a different story. I cannot see, nor get to anything behind the dash. Dastardly words and work are probably on tap.If you have a secret, please advise.

Hi Mopar, get ready to join the fun. Your quest will make you quite a tedious searcher, more time than expected. And true, the options on where to obtain parts may be limited. Always try local for standard stuff. Others may be more difficult. Don't fall over when you see prices. Here is the best place to talk, ask questions, and get tips for about anything. Give us a picture too.

Assuming you did not have the original 'optional' clock? Those without had a blank plate to cover the hole. (Now sell your blank). Clocks, and radios, are items that would be nice to see in working condition, but for me, are not near the top of the investment list. But it does look nice.

Are those hubcaps stock? (with the white?) On my '49 Windsor, someone had painted that outer ring blue to match the car. I liked the shiny 'stainless' better, and in removing the paint, found white underneath. (that area is steel, not chrome or stainless) The Chrysler name was also slightly different. So maybe I have 2 hubcaps from '51? If white is normal, maybe re-paint and find someone looking for that style. Good luck on your trim project.

Welcome. All car talk keeps everyone on their toes. Got your feet wet, now time to get your hands dirty. On your next post, look down in the lower right for "More Reply Options" Click it. That screen will allow you to 'attach' photos in a post right from your computer.

Are there any figures as to how classic cars rate in the overall % of car thefts?

Depending on the expense, would a conversion to disk be feasible?

Reduce your camera photos by at least 50%. I switched to Picture Trail for on line storage. And as stated, use the "IMG" link to put the photo directly in your post. No clicking links. Next time you're doing a post, look down in the right hand corner. "More Reply Options". Click it. That screen will allow you to "ATTACH" a photo right in the post, from your computer. Simple. Either way gets the job done. Good luck.

Will probably stick with 16, served well for quite a few years, except for the insulation. Estimates on the amount of wire are adding up! And, happened to be reading some "resto judging" rules. Using today's modern wire knocks you out of the park for originality. You need that cloth covered wire. Do I care? (Not). So do I assume that people who wish to invest in a replacement harness are going to get the original style cloth covered wire? Or are there choices depending on what their intention is?

Your intention is to print a sticker and put it on a piece of license plate material? Are the letters flat, or embossed (raised)? Got the exact dimension of the plate, and the holes. What style lettering did they use? 2 different colors, and what colors did they use? If flat, take it to a sign shop and let them paint it on. Some license plate sellers make reproduction plates. Good luck.

Welcome, glad you found a nice ride. Keep on driving.

dpollo did mention that 4 conductor wire was 14GA. I'm looking at 16GA. Original was ?? edit: looked again, there are 8 wires going back, not 5. Quite a clump.

Approaching completion at any stage feels good. Eventual same color?

Good project. Are you using similar color codes via a diagram? Working with behind dash connections seems to be a challenging tight fit. I'm about ready to attempt replacing wires to the rear. First estimate measurements, make a long protected harness (5 wires?), and attach it to the frame going back. Want to use a junction block in the trunk. Save a day for the actual hookup. edit: whoops, I counted 8 wires to the rear, not 5. Are you using 16GA wire?