rb1949

Map light now works off the doors. It's a switch problem. This buggy only has one, near the center. Too dim for me. And again, no map light switch. Headlight switch does not turn to activate interior lamps. Hooked up the toggle switch for the trunk light, perfect. Small successes are good.

Pretty sure it's the jamb switch, no extra knob for the map light. But, flashback thinking ---- on older cars, didn't the park/headlight switch also rotate CCW, to turn on the interior light when the door is closed? Playing with some LED bulbs as an option. Good entertainment.

Some progress. Picked up perfect jamb switches local. Fabricating a new plate to mount them, which screws to the jamb and covers the hole. Rear dome challenge about complete. Found a bulb for the map light (1129), but not successful getting it to light via the front door switches. No big deal, have wires with power, but still undecided on how to illuminate the front. Ha, the trunk already had a lamp, and yet another bulb issue. Found a bulb, tested OK in the socket. But the mercury tilt switch must be defective. Again no big deal, wire in a toggle switch. My other post of 2 new challenges is on hold yet. And temp will be dropping for another week, so won't be out there much. Did remove, clean and repaint that front metal radiator "shroud", it covers the big horns. Wow, those horns are 21" & 17" long! How's this for Mr. Trivia. Via pictures, spotted something I didn't have. There's a Chrysler emblem in the front bumper guard. Is it metal, or plastic? Official Chrysler Red? Probably quite rare, and expensive. Heck with it, I made one to fill the hole. Good enough for a driver. Look at the pix, above the license plate. By the way, that style of Historic Plate was first issued by AZ in 1977. The first ones were Copper, then they switched to copper plated steel. I have the solid copper one. Cool.

I'm also a non-resto person. Make it nice, clean and functional.

More questions for your experienced wisdom please. Via the picture, I see 3 easy screws holding the instrument cluster in place. Does this allow it to slide forward enough to get behind it? There are 2 possible reasons, and I'm not even sure if I'm looking/starting in the right place. 1) the fuel gauge isn't working. The gas tank and sending unit were replaced, presume it was done properly. Guessing, the sending unit is accessible by removing a plate in the trunk? Check to verify the connection between the unit and the gauge. One wire? What am I looking for at the gauge, power, connections? Another project with only 2 parts. Any pictures? 2) The speedometer is erratic (bouncing) at lower than actual speed. The odometer does turn over. Where to look first for something obvious, top or bottom? Gears? Does the inner cable just pull out? (if damaged, I found a replacement). Did identify a knob on the lower dash, turn to reset trip odometer, but doesn't do anything. Or more complicated, something wrong with the speedometer itself. Process of elimination to figure things out. All advice appreciated.

They allow 195MB of photo 'storage' per user. At 500x600 size, that's about 2,000 photos to 'attach'. Every computer has the program PAINT. In 2 clicks I resize original images down to 35% of original size for here. (Save it with a different name) Do the same before uploading to on-line storage. I found "Picture Trail" to be quite easy. If using the 'link' to insert a photo from a site, it can be bigger, and you're not using forum storage, so add as many as you like. (After uploading, I immediately copy the needed link to the image, then save it in a notepad file for future use.)

Thanks, I did notice the dome light had power. Diagram says all lights grounded, EXCEPT dome. From the schematic, it looks like ONLY the rear doors operate the dome, not the front switches. Front only has that goofy dim map light. So if there is power to that socket via the front switches, there is the wire I need to add more lighting. (There is power to the switch, that's good) Now to hunt for a not too obnoxious 6V lamp(s) to mount somewhere. No, I'm not going to attempt to run wires or mount a front dome light! Maybe even add "delayed off" after the door is closed. Might as well add a trunk light. Lots of room in there to lose stuff in the dark. Keep forgetting to look if it had an underhood lamp. Another post coming with a few more issues needing advice. Y'all experience is quite helpful.

Bypassed rear pass door switch, and lamp works. Another switch on the list. The button must recess flush to the jam. Lamp did not come on via front pass door. That 'map light' is nothing but a round plastic lens, with a bulb behind it. Ha, not enough light to see your feet! But, bulb was also kaput. Didn't remove the fixture/socket to see if it had power via the front door switch. Ideas still floating for better lighting. Would not like a pillar switch for manual on/off. Opened glove box door. HA, no box!! Yet another project. And a lamp, that didn't work. Did pick up that tiny bulb, and have a light. Got chilly, so back in the garage and done for the day. Updates when possible.

OK, going to swap the rubber insert on the wipers and be done with it. Although an expensive refill. Cleaned the dome light socket and got a bulb, tested OK. Plugged in wires. Only comes on when opening rear driver side door (but that's good). Will check rear pass door switch. But raises a new question. Since the dome light is over the rear seat, does it only activate when the REAR doors are open?? The front has a wimpy, dim flush mounted "map light" under the dash, which I haven't checked yet. Maybe the front doors only activate that?? (Or, both??) More checking/testing to do. The driver door is missing the switch, so need to fabricate a replacement (original not needed). And probably come up with something to create more light in the front. Not done yet.

I think it's just the Horn Ring Retainer Plate. Looks like one of the tabs broke off.

A quick addition to this project. No pix of the solution, just add 3 washers. There seemed to be nothing in parts books, or diagrams, of this 1949 Chrysler horn parts. My steering wheel is in post 1. I did note part numbers from this '49, just in case. The center cap is held on via 3 screws, Cap # 1141436. The plastic emblem in the center probably has it's own part #. The horn ring is held in place by the center cap, Ring # 1139499. The 3-legged plate holding down the spring is # 1141460. Good luck to any '49er checking horn issues.

Shel, those numbers you provided are for the blade assembly replacement, which is what I have. My hunt was for the blade refill. Obsolete. As far as the dome, nobody carries the "88" bulb. So will figure out how to change the socket.

Still plugging away with trivial projects. Did have a post about the horn issue, which was finally resolved. Toot Toot. And a discussion about wipers & dome light, both of which should be solved soon. This is the place to ask. Did get the Blue Paint off one of the hubcaps. Much nicer. And the name Chrysler in the center was chipped, so re-painted that with flat black. See pix. The name "Chrysler" and "Fluid Drive" on the trunk lid also need repainted. Not done with items on the list yet.

Scroll down this page for a 50-52 handle w/lock & keys. http://www.alow.info/556730c05d219/trunk-handle.asp Good luck.

Shel ...... "duh". Good pix. Got to believe that the blade mounts to the arm via that 'pin' (not the bayonet), and then yes, mine appear to be backwards. That 'release hole' is there, but hard to get to, which should allow it to be removed. The blade only rocks 30 degrees. If it tilted 90, pushing that release would be easy. Will find a way to push it with a bent tool. But first, thanks for the refill numbers. Both those places said "no refills"?? That will be the preferred item. I guess no one has found a blade assembly replacement that would fit, and be able to use modern refills?? DOME LAMP: Had power at jam switch. Back to the lamp. An extremely tight fit, some pulling and poking with a screwdriver, the trim/lens popped off. HA, NO BULB!! Unscrewed the metal housing, and the 2 wires screwed to the socket. Had power there, great. The socket may be questionable. Will take the housing/socket to the store to 1) find & test a bulb, or 2) replace the socket/bulb. Getting closer on both issues. More to come.

After some hefty tugging, the dome light and wiper blade are still in place. Change strategy. Let's remove 2 screws from the door jam switch and see if there is power that far. If not, jump a hot wire there and see if the lamp comes on. Or, is it the bulb? Then try to back track wiring via the diagram to the power source. Trivial pursuit. The wiper arm is held to the shaft with a nut. Remove entire assembly, and take it back to the store that offers 'free install'??? Ha. (Just drive the car there??) Since my assembly is still good, the easiest option is to just swap the wiper blade only, as a refill. But that's quite an expensive refill. ANCO has a part that appears to be a refill, but not sure from the pix. Hoping a part store could get them, to see it. Will post any updates about resolving the issues.

Back up to my post 1, the pix shows the turn signal, under the column. Reading indicates that due to problems, 1948 models were sold as '49. The real, 'new' 1949 models didn't come out til later in the year. Mine was delivered in Sept, 1949. Dodge had me convinced that the horn ring touching the 3 leg plate "gizmo' made the connection to honk the horn. Mine wasn't doing that. The nubs, or contact points on the bottom of the ring looked pretty skimpy. Worn? OK, we can't change the ring. Only 1 thing left, and cleverosity set in. Bring the plate 'gizmo' closer to the ring. I loosened each of the 3 screws, slid a washer under there for a spacer, and retightened the screws. The plate is secure, and now raised the thickness of the small washer, bringing it closer to the ring. Re-assemble the horn ring and center cap via the 3 screws. Gently turn on key. Good, no honks, nothing is making contact. Press horn ring, and HONK HONK, it worked! Gosh, what a smile. Both horns are REALLY loud!! Hope this annoying project has been solved. (no honking while driving.) Dodge's last post and the pix was the key to understanding what should be happening in there. THANKS. And the solution to make it work as indicated was so simple.

The bayonet into the blade looks like its crimped on? No release tabs. (the replacement has a release tab). Ah ha, spotted a picture of the back side of the dome light. The trim ring is attached to a backing plate, which has a thingy that must clip into the housing. Will wiggle some more.

Good article about the Indiana trees for 'Old Ironsides'. I didn't know this. http://www.navy.mil/submit/display.asp?story_id=66594

Thanks Dodgeb......your discussion & pix puts me back on the theory that it's the horn ring which has to make the contact, and not the tilting of the spring. Pressing the ring to touch the spider to complete the connection didn't occur to me. Your pix of the process were perfect. On the '49 however, you cannot just attach the ring to the assembly (like the C48 pix), thus unable to observe what is going on underneath. The ring is held in place by the center cap, which has 3 screws from below. The cap does not just snap on as a decoration. The other pix has a 'horn ring retainer', allowing you to install the ring and see the action. SO, if mine is not touching the spider when pressed, the question is, why not? There are a few new ideas floating now to evaluate problems and perhaps rectify the situation. All input is definately appreciated. Will keep posting until this is solved.

Projects that have 2 pieces seem to be a jinx, so here are 2 questions, with pictures. With much poking, prodding, yanking and pulling, what is the secret trick for removing the wiper blade from the arm? Picked up new ones, but can't get the old one off. A 5mm bayonet mount into the blade assembly. Or??? Interior dome light, which is over the back seat. Trim, and a lens. Don't see that the lens pops out of the chrome trim piece. Nor does the trim piece want to pop loose. Didn't want to poke a hole in the headliner. All tips appreciated.

WHAT??? Knuckle has a '49 Windsor coupe???? Rip off your wheel and tell me what's wrong! Caution... it may not work afterwards. This character stuff is annoying.

Picture is good. All these pix have basically the same setup in there. This spring is pretty stout, like dodgeB pix in post 8. It does tilt. Yes, awaiting further data for the '49 era. Sure is a lot of commotion for 2 pieces.

All works perfectly when the spring is isolated from the gizmo. (a shorted wire would honk) It just doesn't work when pressing the ring. PS: why did you upload all that white space in your signature? Cut it off below the last line of text. That's valuable real estate.

Got to admit, my theory of adding a 'strap' was a failure. Worked via a jumper. But when re-assembled, it created a connection making the horn blow by itself.GRRRR. Remove piece. Stare at 2 parts again, and quit. Thinking is at a loss. Guess I'll have to nail an extra button somewhere.