rb1949

Was reading/checking out the multitudes of "Rust Converter" products available, some mentioned here. Due to extended periods of moisture in the trunk (like wet carpet) the floor pan had gotten excessively rusty. (Other owners didn't notice??) Have since resolved water in the trunk issues and dried things out. Rust Converter products seemed like a logical approach to try and keep this metal as solid as it is. There sure is a selection to choose from, and a variety of prices. Some reviews mentioned a competitior brand, so I checked it out. The name was CORROSEAL 82320 Rust Convertor/Primer. Sounded good, at a reasonable price of $21.95 for a 32 oz bottle. Plus I found pick-up in store, no shipping. It's a milky white liquid, easy for brushing. For the inaccessible nooks and crannies, I put it in a cheap plastic bottle and sprayed on. Simple. It turned the rust black within a few minutes, but let it cure 24 hours. It's also water based for easy cleanup. And for areas of mixed paint/rust, it does DRY clear over paint (some do not). I'm pleased so far. Ambition had me mixing up Rustoleum for the top coat. I finally got a 'close' match to the Blue (but not perfect). Who cares, it's a TRUNK! The idea is to try and hold the rust at bay, 95% of it will never be seen. The paint covered the Corroseal with no problems and dried well. Still got 1/2 bottle left, so will crawl around underneath and spray any rusted areas. Good luck with whatever product you use.

The secret to luck. Better start reversing more connections. Better drop the pan to turn the flywheel. Could not get that dang convertor plug to line up in the hole by bumping the starter.

Definately agree. The VooDoo pins are rusty and shorted. One of those parts is installed upside down? Used daybreak to weed the garden and edge lawn. Car ideas are on hold due to rain. Saw a picture of the gripper jaw wrench to remove solenoid. May have to try a strap wrench. My solenoid is tilted 90° more than the pictures show. Don't see any mark to identify which wire goes where. What happens if those 2 wires are reversed?

Boy, does that look to be right in the way for working under the dash.

Yeah for BLUE '49 4 doors. Is that Chrysler Logo in the top bumper bracket metal? I had to make one. Yours looks nice, and there's a '49 in the classifieds that is being sold for parts. I'll be following your progress.

Chrysler is different for sure. Now when I take off, it downshifts to 3rd at about 8mph. How can that be?

Show us your Windsor.

There is sometimes good information on strange pages.

Manuals/diagrams are great, but they also raise more questions. Projects have many implications where a kind word or tip is appreciated. Not afraid to admit I need that a lot, and try my best not to be an idiotic nag looking for free answers without doing SOME homework. If this is not the place to do that, we can always move on to different sources. Sorry this had to evolve from your original question.

Correct on the date. Also missed the rare summer solstice - full moon rise together. Must not be any Mopar beach people here. Saturday is 90's again, so will stop car projects at 9am. And load the jalopy to get to the beach. Summer is too short, and deserves more time than turning wrenches and band aids. Cheers.

Thanks for the offer. But stay tuned as I'll probably question some of the test findings. 3 - 4 shifting seems reasonable. But the same parts aren't shifting 1 - 2? Don't like that.

Video is a good visual and duplicate of printed procedures in the manual. Can only continue to fiddle and test the 6 electric components. Are they doing what they are supposed to be doing. Maybe the Governor failing the very first test is caused by something else. May have to remove, and the solenoid. Faulty parts might put one in SOL mode. Having one large contraption is more than enough, no need for another. There would be NO confidence to pull or open trans. Unless to scrap it and replace, finding one that works. Not done yet. Will remain confused with more updates.

Channel Locks got the cover wiggling enough to come off, with half the gasket (cork). Replaced with a fiber gasket. Manual says it's a copper gasket. Points not burnt, now cleaned. Inside not oily. Plunger moves up and down freely. Reassemble. Using procedure in manual with a test lamp, Governor fails the very first test. (lamp on - lamp off) The light DIMS, but it does not go OFF. Eliminate a short due to faulty old wiring. Phooey, road test. I THINK it is shifting from 3-4, occasionally about 20mph. And when depressing the clutch. Takeoff is better so I think it's starting out in 3rd (lever down). Don't hear any clunks or noises.Lever UP has no shifting. Guessing 1st gear with the motor racing, but no change in gears. So not sure I have accomplished anything after all this work. More testing requires rear wheels up to perform in gear. Kickdown switch test seemed OK. Governor looks like a big 'nut' at the bottom to turn loose. How does the solenoid come off? (a test requires it off to be tilted to check operation) What else can I say. Starting to wish I had a simple 3 speed manual.

Made it to the cruise-in, about 40+ cars, good for a parking lot hang out. Still the only old Mopar present. There are 2 bigger 'shows' at the beach coming up, plus the annual cruise to the beach with about 300 cars. Hmmm, remove 4 screws in Governor cover, pull off and clean points. Sorry, it doesn't come off. Stuck good. Hammer didn't help. No lip to "pry" it up. Is there a gasket under there, and what kind? The center screw is only the electrical connection, not holding it on(?) Last thing I need to do. New harness installed and connected. Will still follow the few simple procedures in the manual for electrical test of components. Ready for a progress report. On the trans driver side is a small square gizmo with 2 wires. Assuming back-up light switch?

Keep us advised of durability, yellowing, etc. I thought the whitewall did not extend down to the area that seals the rim?

The perfect color.

The best season of the year starts tomorrow. We have been blessed with 3 weeks of early superb sunny hot skies, which equates to beach time. Got delayed on car projects during those cold days. As expected, beach season is worse, that cooler full of beer is a priority! Things will get done eventually. Get this last chore finished up so my buggy will become the intended beach cruiser. Do you have a beach? Cruise on over, you don't need an ocean. Take a break and have some fun. Throw a Frisbee. Catch a fish. Splash in the fresh water. Stay for a sunset.

Guidance is appreciated trying to understand what these components are and how they work. So many delays and detours. In current state, I'd like to take it down to the local weekly cruise-in, weather permitting. Ready to associate with oldie owner groups and seek friendly knowledge. So far no other vintage '40's Mopars to be seen. I want that ride with an M6!! Then get this thing propped back up in the air and at least get the harness routed in place. And improve the messy underhood hookups. For anyone else with a need, there's a great wiring diagram for the M6 right here in the downloads.

Agreed, it would be nice to drive it for a change. This is not shifting in any position now. Takeoff is dangerously slow to get moving. Can start "up" (1) then manually shift down (4).Your suggestions have been on the list, not done yet. Will be anxious to see the results. Or back to where I started. No again, have never been in one that works.

Got a short ride with electrics disconnected. Now it only starts out in "4th", Quite slow at that. Before, I at least had 3rd for better takeoff. Shifter up (1 &2), not sure what gear it's in, but doesn't shift. Next will be to remove the governor cover and check inards. After that I'm feeling lost, having not really accomplished anything. Would be nice to identify something that would lead to a solution.

Maybe it's my eyes that are too small? Do use more caution when driving the old jalopy. Will try moving the pass side a bit.

Saw James research findings on another old post. Not sure what to do with coupling, leave it alone. If changing would use 10W, manual says 10.5 qt. (Just pull the plug, then rotate hole to the bottom so it drains out? Slow, with no air vent.) Hopefully have traced nasty wires from trans to engine compartment, trying to confirm how they are connected now. Remember, no matching colors. One reading may be indicating a short? Not sure if that could mean in the wire, or one of the components stuck in the wrong position. Made a schematic as I went, seems to be matching the wiring diagram. Lots of labels as those 3 wires branch out again up front. Anyhow can build new harness, even using correct colors this time.. Have not done the test drive yet with electrics disconnected. Got detoured replacing front brake HOSES. Local store cheaper than on line order. Need a pedal pusher today to help with bleeding procedure. Bleeding, and no band-aids! Progress report to follow.

I was referring to the angle (bend) of the arm, which might position it for better viewing than mine. Sad, current ones are 4 1/2" and don't like them.

Will be watching this as I'm 99% sure I need a new liner on the e-brake band for the 49 Windsor. A quick look while under there only saw a bunch of rusty stuff so no advice yet. Better start squirting some penetrate spray!

That's odd. Here's the specs I get. FAQ MONROE 5752 Compressed Bumper Stop No Compressed Length 8.625" Dust Shield Yes Dust Shield Material Metal Extended Bumper Stop No Extended Hydraulic Lockout No Extended Length 12.750" Lower Mounting Code Loop Bushing Mount - 5/8 Bushing ID X 1.5/16" Bushing OAL Parts Pack(s) None Travel Length 4.125" Upper Mounting Code Loop Bushing Mount - 5/8 Bushing ID X 1.5/16" Bushing OAL Short 5752 for the front, longer 31000 for the rear. Rock is showing the best prices, and also best shipping (better than buying local). There is also the Monroe 58567 rear with overload springs going for $61/pr. Won't be hauling/towing, and those just might push the rear end up 1-2" higher. Anybody used them?