rb1949

True, can't tell what colors those nasty old wires are. Tracing one by one is necessary, and wild where they go. And not an inch of slack. Pull out a switch, yet you can't move it far enough to see anything. There's room, I'm going to add plenty of slack in the wires. I found a 2 wire junction screwed to the 'box' that holds the ashtray. Ha. No restoring to original here, I want things to work. "There's more than corn, in Indiana." Keep updating your adventure.

Well, no success getting anything to turn yet. And it doesn't fit every one. Will try more fine tuning of the tool. Got switches that HAVE to come out. Dumb Chrysler. Wonder what kind of replacements would work. Phooey on original.

Are you trying to attract attention?

DodgeB, Like minds are clever. Looked at 2 options, and did find a coupling nut. It's closer to 5/16 Hex. May have to gently file all 6 sides to fit(?) And drill out the center for shaft clearance.It has to stick up far enough to get a socket on it. Will bet it's not a nut, the whole bezel will turn. Getting closer to goofy Chrysler thinking. A tool. Will have to sell it!!! Will report progress.

Pictures were not coming out to see down in the bezel. So made a doodle. The tools referenced fit bezels with pin holes. This is a hex. A Chrysler trick. Now one of the knobs on the heater control doesn't want to come off by pressing that spring clip gizmo. Will fight it some more.

Didn't see any tool that fit this.

Does this tool have a name?

Or whatever it is called to remove knobs on the '49, The radio was easy, simple hex nuts screw onto the knob shaft. But other dash knobs are different. Once the knob is removed, the bezel that screws onto the shaft has a 6 point hex down in there. (Not a nut) The opposite of a socket. Some clever Chrysler tool that went over the shaft and fit into the recessed hex in the bezel. Maybe 3/8"? Is there such a tool? Or do I have to take a 1/4" drive socket and grind the end to a hex shape that will fit. Did this make any sense? Other Mopar have similar knobs?

Good job. There is always a task that requires our persistence. For tires, I saw the 205/75-15 as a replacement for the 6.70-15 bias, using stock rims. Narrow white, or black. Can buy local, with mounting & balancing, way cheaper than tires only on line.Let us know your choice.Good luck cruisin'.

Where was the original rubber seal?

Finally some welcome warmth. Those trees will be green soon. Anxious for the beach again. Think our local cruise in has started too. Better weather will bring out more old iron.

Welcome, enjoy the forum and the ride. Is the heirloom a new project for you now?

Re-analyze the setup. Did your windshield trim have what looks like a defroster blowing area? If so, something must connect to it. Maybe you are missing some ducts which should come from the heater. Perhaps the heater/defroster control operated a flap in the duct, diverting the air to desired location. Hopefully someone with that model that has all the pieces will jump in.

Was there ever a solution to this? And Pyrodork new questions. I fought my horn for weeks. Maybe the discussion, and photos, will help. http://p15-d24.com/topic/40502-49-chrys-horn-horn-ring/ There is one wire going up the column 6v, which you need to install. Check that cut wire to see if its 6v. Grounding it may toot the horn. (with key on). If good, run the wire topside. Only 3 pieces up there. The spring keeps the horn button from making contact. Pressing the button makes the connection to the Y thing which is ground, and the horn should honk. Good luck. Those old horns sound great.

Back again after the long cold spell and no progress. BORING! Was finally able to get the trunk wiring 'in place', down along the fenders and some up into the trunk lid. Not connected yet, everything will be hooked to a new terminal block. Crawled up front today and dropped the heater control. Then pulled out the real A/C vent flap controls, Needs a good cleaning & lubrication. Got a new rubber gasket for the outside. Looks like it just sits in a channel. Will pick out the old dry one and clean it good. Got the radio out! Holy cow, what a monster. Will check it, but have strong feelings to forget that beastly thing. There is a no-radio plate for the hole. The cluster project is still waiting. See I can disconnect the oil line and temp line under the hood, Then pull them thru the now removed grommet hole in the firewall. Both will mean no driving/starting. The temp looks like a 'nut' screwed into the block. Thought about just removing the gauge, but that would leave the delicate needles exposed to damage. The housing that holds the cluster also has 4 switches attached. More wires that need attention. If anything works when done it will be a miracle.

Maintaining a stock look, I would keep the original hubcaps.

I see 2 different topics going on here. A suggestion was made to move the post to the Ebay section. Which turned into a discussion about the classifieds. Each is different.

Since you're replacing, take it off and hold it up to the other side. The process may also reveal if you need new clips.

Presume you are referring to car radios? Yes there is a need. (Mine needs attention, but not a priority due to cost). Nothing wrong with competition. Google "auto radio rebuild" to find ample sources performing such services. Read them, see what they offer, and fees asked. Some don't do the really old models. Your location may save on shipping costs. On this site, go to 'Resources', then click 'Downloads'. You'll find some radio repair manuals and schematics (free download). Read those too for diagnostic techniques. Remember, radios consist of more than electronic components. Mechanical dials and buttons need attention. Cracked/faded glass. Some places restore the dial face. Figure out your expertise, and go for it.

Spotted your nifty interior lights. Found them local for $4. Now trying to find the 6v bulb that fits. (not going to pay $9 to ship a bulb!) edit: just found the bulb, same place as the lamp.

Nice combo, keep going and smile. May I ask how one tapes that skinny fender welt? Mine is chrome.

I have a reprint from the Imperial Club (dated 2007) regarding the M-6. The pile of owner documents indicate the Prestomatic name. Which consists of the Fluid Drive, Safety Clutch and tranny. Access to checking fluid is via a panel in the floorboard hump? Grumble grumble, the replacement carpet (and pad) are glued down quite securely. I did pull up enough to spot the small access plate to the master cylinder. Has anyone transplanted the semi-automatic with a regular 3 speed? Or does that require a truckload of parts. Would be fun if some kind of 4 speed matched the bolt pattern. Y'all seem to have adapted most anything into these cruisers. edit: The M-6 semiautomatic transmission was marketed under the name "Prestomatic" at Chrysler, "Tip-Toe Shift" at DeSoto, and "Gyro-Matic" at Dodge.

Some reading on the '49 Chrysler created some confusion. Which is normal. So best to ask. My car is tagged as "Fluid Drive". Are "Fluid Drive" and "Gyromatic" one in the same? If not, is there something visible to tell the difference? Thought I saw they are different, but not why. The manual I have covers the Gyromatic. Your all-knowing wisdom will be enlightening.

Got a picture by chance?

Is pressure better? I could save a lot of time with an inexpensive vacuum bleed unit.