dale
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Everything posted by dale
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We used to use portawalls but they always stuck out from the tire. Wonder how they would do if you used rubber cement under them with the wheels off and let it setup good before driving on them.
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In Minnesota here i went in to transfer my 1946 Plymouth title and buy plates. The average value she said was about 14 thousand and was going to charge me 7 1/2 sales tax on that amount. When I told her the car was fresh out of the junkyard without a motor etc. she sayd I could buy lifetime collector plates for $225 and pay tax on what I paid which was $1200... May be the same in other States seeing Minnesota is the Land of 10,000 Lakes... AND taxes.
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Flathead 6 is toast. Anyone swap a jeep drive train into 49 Windsor.
dale replied to Becuzican's topic in P15-D24 Forum
NO... NO...NO replace the motor with another Chrysler six. Way too much to change for zero benefit. -
When I was a young guy I put a Chevy 265 with powerglide in my 46 Plymouth. I changed to 12 volt battery and only changed light bulbs and reversed the ampmeter connections. Never changed anything else except put in a voltage reducer ahead of the radio. Never changed the fuel sender or horn relay. Drove it for several years trouble free. Didnt know much about electrical circuits etc. Everything worked fine.
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Near zero idling when hot is alarming. A newly rebuilt motor should be near 40 pounds at idle. Something very wrong with that motor. I suggest to go with 20-50 Castrol for Summer. Aluminum three core radiator and a big electric fan should do the trick.
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Will a 1947 Plymouth starter interchange with a 1947 Chrysler with a six cyl. engine ? If so is the Chrysler starter somehowe different but still bolts on ? Thx
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If I get such a call ill just tell them that Im with the CIA...
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I took a piece of 1/2 inch plate, drilled the hubs bolt pattern holes thru and drilled and tapped a 1/2 hole for a 1/2 inch long bolt in the center and off came the hub.. Whats more I still have it if I ever need it again.
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Can a person still buy a 3/4 cam for these old cars ?
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Master cylinder suitability for dual circuit upgrade
dale replied to thebeebe5's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Replace master cylinder with a new one. Period. -
Should I start over or continue "The Next Big Thing"
dale replied to 48ply1stcar's topic in P15-D24 Forum
So boring it out .040 gives you how many cubic inches now ? Beyond my Minnesota math skills.. -
I mounted mine on the outside of the frame straight down from the driver door handle. I also have one on my Morris Minor high on the firewall that works fine that I mounted when I didnt know better but they should be mounted low.
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Doesnt turning the distributor counter-clock wise advance the timing ? Maybe not in the old Plymouth. I know all the new cars it does. Ive learned the best way to adjust the timing is use lower grade gasoline and advance the timing until the motor pings and then back it off slightly until it doesnt. Sounds caveman like but it works for me.
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I think Id get a pro welder to go over those welds.
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Anyone know where the gear ratio is stamped on a 1946-1948 Plymouth if it is ? Otherwise I suppose you can tell by turning the driveshaft 360 degrees and count the wheel revolutions.
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Good seats for that Plymouth arnt hard to find. By using a decent seat it will save you alot of money at the upholstery shop.
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I talked to a Woman at a car show who had her 1947 Plymouth radio done with transistors with AM and FM for $500. I have the old radio in mine for looks but put a new one in under the clove box fpr $20 and it sounds great with the four speakers. Never did check to see if the old one worked. Now that the subject got my attention I think Ill see if it just might. Id put the odds at 100/1......
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Cant seem to find that gauge.. I supposd it hasnt been made for forty years.
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Guess Ill have to pull the hubs and start over. Have to see about getting that gauge. THX
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Well I checked all the lines and connections. Id think if there was a connection sucking air it would also have a noticeable leak of fluid by now. .. Went around and bled the cylinders again being carefull adding fluid and pumping the pedal and got some air out and the pedal got much better though not all the way there. Adjusted the shoes back up.. Triied the brakes a few minutes later and they were back to where I started. Im about at my patience limit. Never had this problem before on several other cars and one was a 1947 Plymouth. Must be getting air in but ....
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Ill check the washers and like I said there are no fluid leaks. Ill bleed the system once again this time being carefull about pouring the fluid and move the pedal slowely. This time around Ill adjusting the brakes back first. Its been a few weeks since Ive bled them so any air should have seperated from the fluid by now. Ill report.
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The fluid I used is Valvoline synthetic that says " DOT3 or 4 " on the label.. Fittings are tight as there are no leaks. Pedal is quite spongy but doesnt go on down to the floor. Stops the car. Im wondering if air could be trapped in the cylinders.
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Im thinking my problem is the shoe adjustments.
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Im wondering if that once the synthetic get air in it the air is there to stay. I think Ill start over using the old type if I can still buy it. Could be I didnt back off the shoe adjusters like I was suppost to.. Ive worked on brakes and one car I didnt even have to bleed the brakes. Air bubbles just came up thru the fill resevour some and that was it.
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Ive replaced all the brake componets with new ones and put in synthetic brake fluid. Ive bled the brakes several times according to the manual but still have a spongey pedal. There are no fluid leaks. Could this be a brake fluid problem.
