falconvan
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Everything posted by falconvan
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Thanks! I think I’m going to use a YF; I’ve used a few of them on other projects and they work pretty well for a minimal cost.
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Success! Got the motor fired up today and it sounds great other than the carb being pretty iffy. I might try one of those EBay YF knockoff carbs; this one needs rebuilt and the choke needs replaced. But it sounded smooth and had 40psi oil pressure so I’m happy. When I got this the previous guy said the whole car was rewired. Technically it was; it had a new universal street rod harness but it was really a mess with a bunch of wire nuts and THHN house wiring added to it. I decided to redo it; solder and heat shrink the connections and just tidy it up.
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Sounds like the starter relay is stuck. I had the opposite issue; my solenoid would engage but not send voltage to the starter motor. I took my solenoid apart, cleaned all the contacts with some Emory paper, a little oil on the plungers and it’s working great. Put an ohmmeter across the two big terminals on the relay. If you have continuity, it’s stuck internally. Easy fix.
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Take one of your old shocks, measure the compressed length and the extended length, then match it up on NAPA auto parts. They show all the dimensions of their shocks on line. https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?q=Nty%3D1%26N%3D2500007%2B2600710%2B2800722%26Score%3D0.9&referer=plp&partTypeName=Shock Absorber - Front&keywordInput=shocks&scene=partTypesScene3&fullyQualified=false
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Got a lot of little things put back together the last few days. I’ve got an exhaust manifold coming in the mail next week; one I get it I should be able to fire the engine up and see what she sounds like.
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Not yet; I put LED bulbs in for the dash lights so I think it’ll look good
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I decided to do some work on the inside today. The only gauge that worked was the gas gauge but it was faded really bad. The speedo was stuck and it had some under dash autozone gauges for the temp and oil pressure. I got the oil pressure gauge to clean up and it works, I found an NOS fuel and temp gauge on eBay, and also a working speedo. Not using the amp gauge, I’ll add an inconspicuous volt gauge.
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I usually just make them out of some 1/4" plate and weld them to the frame. Here's a shot of some. For shocks I used Pete & Jakes street rod shocks. After I had the car back together I measured between the upper and lower shock mount and made that measurement the center of the length. When you look up the shocks it will give you the compressed and extended length.
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Just put steel in mine. I had two of the holes in the block that the inner sealing surface was pretty deteriorated. Just put on lots of sealer and keeping my fingers crossed. Luckily these old systems only use a 4lb pressure cap.
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Drivetrain is back in and I’m getting it put back together. I’m grateful for all the extra garage time lately; just wish the circumstances were different.
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Very cool; I’ve considered adapting a GM TBI fuel injection to the flathead.
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Options for 15" rims to use original hub caps on a 47 P 15
falconvan replied to 47Nik's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I’m wondering if you could take the center section from a stock wheel and weld it into a wider hoop? -
Beautiful! Must be a pretty rare item; did Plymouth build those completely or send them to a coach company for the woodwork?
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Nice! It is a family car but just for you and your sweetheart. Date night two seater, no kiddos allowed.
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Those Volvos are pretty cool.
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Got a lot done today. Head is back on, finished up my trans mounts, boxed the cross member where I notched it, and a few other small things. Drivetrain goes back in tomorrow.
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Thanks! Yeah I got a new one but unfortunately what I came up with is steel. The first one lasted 70 years so this one will probably long outlast the motor.
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Ugh; 3 hours of absolute misery getting the water distribution tube out. The last 6 inches broke off in the back and I didn’t think it would ever come out. Finally got it out and got some paint on the motor; enough for today.
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I decided to go ahead and pull the head and change the head gasket. It had a couple of head bolts loose where the guy I bought it from put the chain to pull it. Plus he told me it had a valve job and new seats and he seemed like an honest dude but I hadn’t heard it run for myself. Looks like I got a good deal, very clean inside and has a set of .040 pistons.
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Its definitely been scary; I’ve been working from home and spending time out in the garage to keep my head in a good place. Missouri hasn’t been hit that hard but I feel for the states that have. It’s a good time to slow down, open God’s Word, and spend time in prayer for those who are suffering from this illness.
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Shift rods and clutch rod done and works good; had to shorten everything 3”. Now to pull it back apart; throw on some paint, and make it permanent.
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Lol! Thanks for saving me from having to clean up an oil spill!
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I pulled this seat out of a late model 15 passenger Dodge van. The shape and side angles are really close to the original; just need to lower the base a bit and install some sliders.
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Very cool that you kept it all these years. Looks like your doing some great work!
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Got the mounts finished and the weight of the drivetrain sitting on it. Also made a bracket for the clutch z-bar and the alignment looks good. Next I’ll test fit the shift linkage and if everything lines up and works as it should I’ll pull the drivetrain back out; throw a coat of paint on it, and make everything permanent.
