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westaus29

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About westaus29

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Interests
    Plymouths, volunteering, gardening
  • My Project Cars
    1929 U tourer (restored), 1938 P6 7-Passenger, 1955 P27 Suburban 4 door V8

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Retired Plymouth nut
  • Occupation
    Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    Western Australia
  • Interests
    gardening, 4wd camping

Recent Profile Visitors

215 profile views
  1. Sharps40 is right. My 38 manual says fill cup with grease and turn one complete turn every 1000 miles! Add 2-3 drops of SAE 10 oil to wick in centre of cam every 6000 miles. (old SAE 10 did not have detergent like modern oils). My 29 manual says similar and care should be taken to keep grease off contact points and weights
  2. I have done up quite a few distributors over the years: - a few drops of sewing machine oil on top felt pad, points plate bearings and weights. Engine oil attracts moisture and may lead to rust. - wheel bearing grease in grease cup on side (every one I have stripped had grease in the cup) - smear of vaseline on cam ( some points kits come with a small capsule). Havent ever seen a felt pad on the points arm? This last time instead of oil I sprayed weights and points plate sparingly with marine grade Lanox, will see how it goes. The only failure was my son's 1967 Datsun 1000. For some reason it kept losing spark. I found another that worked ok and still have the original, which I plan some day to try in my 1929 Plymouth. Believe it or not it is a simple mod to fit.
  3. Hey Keith you asked a question about shocks on my 38 7 pass Plymouth. I just posted dimensions on Andydodge's post about shocks. The front and rear shocks are identical dimensions, the only difference is the rear shocks have stone deflection plates above the lower mounting
  4. Back to your original question. You may already know, but the 38 Plymouth for one has telescopic shocks on front with an upper mount that bolts on with captive nuts inside the chassis rail and extends several inches above the rail. My shocks are Munroe made in Oz by Wylie, too old for numbers to mean anything, about 1-1/2 inch bore, 13 inch compressed and 21-3/8 inch extended. The originals are Healing made in Oz, same bore, 12-5/8 inch compressed and 20-1/2 extended.I imagine you could work out what lengths you need and pick a shock from the catalogue. I looked at a current Monroe catalogue online and Holden wagon shocks could fit the bill for me. Oh for the days when everything possible was made in Oz. We are just starting to realise the folly of reliance on China for everything. Sneak preview below.
  5. I had the same problem with that "answered" status setting, after I saw someone actually complaining that someone else hadnt set post to "answered". I even posted a query to support and got no answer. Finally noticed that for posts I own, there is a column on left with tick marks, and if I CLICK ON A TICK the status goes to"answered". An undocumented feature!
  6. We are locked down here as well, but being down under is a bit of a bonus in these troubled times, Our biggest issue has been with a number of cruise ships with sick passengers. One came into Sydney a couple of weeks ago and they let everyone off without any checks. That has now spread all the way to us in the west. We have had three ships come into Perth that have been handled a lot better but still have one with sick people coming off it daily and its probably not in a position to leave anytime soon. Meanwhile we are going nowhere. I'm making rapid progress on the 38 in the shed, the wife is busy quilting, and the 29 and 55 Plymouths are gathering cobwebs. Weather here is beautiful, autumn at its best, so different to you guys struggling out of winter. I spent 7 years in Northern Ontario above Lake Huron, and dont miss the cold one bit..
  7. Body and chassis off to sand blaster. One of my mates found this guy less than a km (half a mile) from here who is passionate about old cars, and one of his workers knows how to treat panel work gently. My only other alternative would be to take it to Perth on the back roads, a good 90 min trip. The chassis came back in a week, looking great in epoxy primer But the body got recycled back to me ... too much underbody coating, cant sandblast it they said. My mate supplied a rotisserie he had built when restoring his 55 Buick coupe, and we set it up and I started scraping. Rapidly realised my wrists wouldnt last the distance. Another friend suggested try an electric paint scraper, they're cheap at Bunnings (where all my presents come from). So for $A35 (about $US20) I got a Chinese one with 12 month warrantee and started again. Turned out it was the bees knees for removing underbody, as long as it hadnt been anywhere heat (like previous weld repairs). Two days later it was done and back for sandblasting, but I had missed the window and had to wait another month. That paint scraper is still going strong! Finally back home. I didnt get the whole body done, only where there was rust or bad paint, as I had a good idea what was under the blue paint, as did it myself back in the 80's. Next time I wouldnt get it primed, as due to the delays another guy did the job and I much later discovered he had put primer over rust on most of the roof and firewall. But for now I was happy.
  8. I have stacks of photos on pc and phone, backed up on external hard drive, google photos and Microsoft Onedrive, all free. Probably overkill but my wife takes way more photos than me and we have been trying to get them "all in one place" and in a usable format. I have settled on Google Photos as it is super easy to organise into albums and view from pc or phone. However it is a pain when it comes to pasting in an email or on this site. Have decided to live with that. Microsoft photos was too hard to organise. I am sure there are other opinions and ways but I am a bit of a cheapskate and choose the free option. One problem I have when I go to put photos online is that I always seem to miss taking a photo of an important stage, like I'll have one of the restored article but not one of what I started with, or how it should go together again. I really admire posts where there is a good sequence of photos, because it shows you have to keep checking and taking photos, when all you want is to get the job done. I sometimes have to go back and take a couple more photos, and with google photos you can easily change date stamping to keep the story in the right order.
  9. Time to lift the body off the chassis. Used and engine crane and leveller at front, borrowed "A" frame at rear, two helpers Rolled chassis out from under and lowered body onto temporary supports. A big beast! Took multiple photos of body mounts for later
  10. Took photos under dash then removed it, wont bore you with photos as much of wiring was a mess. Used a patented puller to remove the steering wheel. Floor is in pretty good shape
  11. A few more photos around the pedals and gearbox then we'll get stuck into stripping it
  12. Before starting to remove the engine I took photos to record the setup. Much of the wiring is the original loom (not the coil!). I am planning to have a new loom made by Vintage Wiring Harness in Melbourne. They did my 29 loom and it was very professional. Some more photos showing the brake and fuel line installation, which I will sure need when I get to putting it back together. This forum is a pain when it comes to photos, wouldnt initially let me load any in this post as says I have exceeded 3 MB. This is due to my previous post. I have found I have to close the Chrome session and reopen to get around it.
  13. After reconditioning the fuel tank, decided to check the fuel gauge sender rather than try and get a new one from the U S of A. It is held together by three rivets .. drilled those out to inspect the innards .. not too bad. The cork float has been coated in the POR tank sealant. So cleaned it up, gently polished the contact surfaces Then riveted it back together and checked operation .. resistance varied smoothly from about 5 to 110 ohms. Used brass brake shoe rivets, cut to length for neat result. Removed one of two cork floats as had been damaged by POR and my spare has only one cork.
  14. When I bought my 55 Plymouth ( sorry, I know the car is off topic but the chrome is still relevant) it had some dirty, tarnished and pitted chrome loose in the back. Applied some elbow grease and see the result. They now on the car and look great. Could have spent couple of hundred on ebay and no better off. Not a show car but draws lots of comments
  15. Hi keithb7, yes it has the same 201 engine and 3 speed but the diff is originally 4.3 compared to standard 4.1. I changed the diff to 4.1 as we travel typically long distances here, and it fixed the speedo reading so I suspect the gearbox had been replaced at some stage. They were used as taxis and funeral cars here and are pretty rare, but I do know of three in Aus, one other here in WA and one in SA. The chassis were imported RHD and the bodies built in SA at T J Richards factory which later became Chrysler Australia. There is lots of good info about that on the web.
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