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westaus29

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    31
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About westaus29

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Interests
    Plymouths, volunteering, gardening
  • My Project Cars
    1929 U tourer (restored), 1938 P6 7-Passenger, 1955 P27 Suburban 4 door V8

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Retired Plymouth nut
  • Occupation
    Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    Western Australia
  • Interests
    gardening, 4wd camping

Recent Profile Visitors

112 profile views
  1. How do you find out what stock Terrill Machine has? They dont appear to be on web
  2. Congratulations! I think the rear treatment of your 56 looks more classy than my 55 4 door suburban but the extra seating comes in handy
  3. I have found Egge good for pistons and rings but their complete rebuild kits are expensive. I have used Andy Bernbaum or Roberts Motor Parts for miscellaneous engine parts and both are good quality. They have websites which are reasonable. Vintage Power Wagons are worth a look too. Complete gasket sets are available at reasonable cost from a number of suppliers..
  4. I had a bit of trouble aligning the countershaft but have done it three times now, twice on my good box and once on the spare. The best way I found is to insert countershaft and reverse idler shaft only part way so their far ends are just starting into the case. That holds everything together while you align the shafts and they are easier to twist. Tap the retainer plate in place at this stage and slowly tap both shafts in all the way. I put a bit of sealant here and there to hopefully minimise oil leakage To get the reverse idler gear out I used a long brass drift inserted at an angle thru the input shaft hole. It doesnt seem to be as tight a fit as the countershaft.
  5. Just remembered we have gone metric and dowel would be 19 mm not 3/4 inch. Difference of .05 mm not a problem. True Oak is hard to get here, we have "Tasmanian Oak" which is actually a native eucalypt, and in WA we have Jarrah which is a prized dark red very hard eucalypt. Thanks for documenting the bearing numbers. I'll add it to my files. Jim
  6. Yes 3/4 inch as bought from hardware store. Have just corrected reverse idler shaft length, had some extra bits in toolbox and picked the wrong one. Just took the top off my spare box and confirmed length is 1-1/16 inch. By the way, a bit of slop in bearings is to be expected as they are simple ball bearings. The input and mainshafts are steadied at both ends by bearings and arent going to move far.
  7. Hi Keith, I am a bit late joining this conversation but as I have just recently overhauled my 38 Plymouth gearbox I will pass on my learnings. I had previously done my 29 gearbox which is a bit simpler. I stripped the gearbox mainly because it was out and accessible and I am trying to do a thorough restoration. It had always shifted fine and sounded fine. When I stripped it, I found missing and broken needle rollers inside the input shaft where the mainshaft slots in, but no apparent damage. So am very glad I did strip it. My bearings were ok and gears were in decent shape with light damage to first and reverse so I kept them. Before going further I ordered a small parts kit. These are available from Andy Bernbaum for $65 and include all needles, thrust washers and circlips. I bought mine thru eBay from Mopar-Direct because of postage issues to Aus and am happy with the quality. First and most important is a couple of lengths of 3/4 inch hardwood dowel, one exactly 6-1/2 inches long for cluster gear and one 1-1/16 inch long for reverse idler, see pic below. The lengths of these match the overall assembled length of each gear including thrust washers and make assembly quick and easy. Secondly I found it much easier to work on the gearbox by bolting it upright using a simple L bracket mounted in the vice as per pics below. It helped to have a swivel vice. I was unable to remove the input shaft as a first step. It fouled the cluster gear and I dont like the idea of hammering the bearing as a way of getting that clearance, especially as my bearings were fine. So for me first step was to start at the back and remove the mainshaft complete with clutch assembly, taking care to hold the assembly together. Next I removed the countershaft, replacing it with the dowel, and let the cluster gear drop into the bottom of the box. This allowed me to remove the input shaft complete with bearing and circlip, then lift out the cluster gear assembly, then tap out the reverse idler shaft and likewise remove it ( cant quite remember if had to remove the reverse idler gear first???). Assembly is the reverse. The dowels make it easy to insert the needles in the reverse idler and cluster gear, and position the thrust washers at each side. for the cluster gear, the steel thrust washers go next to the gear and needles, the bronze washers go on the outside. Note there are 31 needles to each bearing and I found they fit like a glove. Pic Z1 shows needles being installed using dowel to hold them in place Z2 shows thrust washers about to be installed and Z3 shows the cluster assembly with thrust washers ready to go back in the box. To insert the larger needles in the input shaft recess is not quite so easy, The last one feels like it wont go in but a bit of pressure from a wooden dowel and it should pop in. They fit so tight they wont fall out while you assemble them into the box. See pic Z4 Next install the cluster gear assembly and the reverse idler assembly, leaving the cluster gear in the bottom of the box. Install the input shaft, then lift the cluster gear into place and install the countershaft. Make sure countershaft and reverse idler shaft rear slots line up for the retainer plate. Then replace the mainshaft. If you decide to pull the clutch gear apart you are in for some fun. I have some pics somewhere of a tool I used to reassemble it. As I recall it was a tin can of appropriate diameter. I could find it if you want.
  8. The first time I restored this car back in 1982, it was just a freshen up, a temporary engine, a bit of rust removal and a coat of paint. This time I decided to do a full back to bare metal resto as it is a fairly rare model and has suffered badly over the years. It is the first time I have done a car of this size and vintage, and I dont think I really understood what a BIG job it would be. First problem was the length of the vehicle. I needed to free up 2 bays of the shed, one for chassis and one for body. AS you can see below even with bumpers and front guards removed, it was parked up against my spares shelving. So all the spares had to go on the floor and the shelves were shifted to the end of the shed where I used to keep the garden gear. Next step was to unload the junk out of temporary storage in the 38 body. This included two broken chairs from our vintage kitchen set, which we had bought when we first moved to Mandurah after years of temporary living in mining towns. This was old by Aus standards, a simple design made of solid Tasmanian Oak with Walnut veneer hilites and the decision was made to restore and keep it. It turned out pretty well after I managed to get some more Walnut veneer from an artisan in the Perth hills. Sorry, a bit off topic I know. Then the real work started, stripping doors, seats, guards, bonnet and boot lid, lights, radiator etc. Note the jump seats which are specific to the 7 passenger. Now the problem was where to put all the bits? I hung as much as I could from the roof trusses. But that left a lot of big items like seats, running boards, glass, dash, bumpers and gas tank. So down to the salvage hardware to get the material to fabricate a mezzanine loft. At last I have room to start! Two and a half months to get to this stage.
  9. Some pics of my right hand drive 55 Plymouth Belvedere Suburban wagon, 259 poly with 2 speed powerflite, original colour Pompano Peach and Cypress Brown. I bought it complete, registered and running but needed lots of work on brakes, tyres, rims and steering to make it roadworthy. Rocker panels, front guards, floor derusted but needs more work at back and probably roof. Now on club license as cant afford $800 rego.. Currently working on 38 Plymouth 7 passenger.
  10. Here is a pic of a spare switch with the knob off, showing the slot in the knob and the tool that I made from an old tyre pressure gauge stem to unscrew the ferrule. You can gently bent the tangs and disassemble the switch to clean the contacts
  11. From what I remember the knob was pulled off by pressing a jewellers screwdriver into a small hole at its base. I then made a tool to unscrew the chrome ferrule using some small aluminum tubing (soft so does not scratch), filing the end to create two dogs to fit the ferrule. The switch is held in by the chrome ferrule. You can then disassemble the switch and clean the contacts. I have since seen quite a few switches on ebay at reasonable price, however the conversion to Aus dollars plus ebay/paypal charges plus postage ex US makes it way to expensive for me.
  12. Andy Bernbaum shows a picture of the coil bracket for firewall mounting on his electrical parts page but there is no listing for the part. If you google andy bernbaum coil bracket you will see a few parts listed .. I bought one from andy a few years ago so not sure why no longer listed, have sent them an email. Alternatively try this link https://dcmclassics.com/electrical/576-le-183-coil-mounting-bracket-firewall-style.html
  13. Whoops a daisy ....... I have two of those orange and white ones still in use. They were a gift and always thought they were indestructible.
  14. I had to hand crank my 29 Plymouth a couple of weeeks ago ........... pushed it out onto the lawn so I could do some serious welding and grinding on the 38 Plymouth, then couldnt get it back up the hump into the shed. Luckily it started after a bit of grunting. The battery collapsed after letting it go flat ....... wasted no time replacing it! I love electric start. One feature the older cars had is an advance / retard lever or knob. You retard before trying to start and that prevents kick back. My first car as a student was a Renault 750 that I was always having to hand crank, and it didn't have that feature. Luckily my girlfriend's dad taught me how to hold the handle, 'cause one day it backfired and tore the lugs off the starter handle but didn't hurt me. I wouldn't want to hand crank the 38. The crank is about three feet long and comes in two pieces, and doubles up as a wheel brace. Jim
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