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westaus29

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About westaus29

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Interests
    Plymouths, volunteering, gardening
  • My Project Cars
    1929 U tourer (restored), 1938 P6 7-Passenger, 1955 P27 Suburban 4 door V8

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Retired Plymouth nut
  • Occupation
    Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    Western Australia
  • Interests
    gardening, 4wd camping

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315 profile views
  1. I would have to say go for it and sort out the details later. A great car, very advanced for it's time and once in a lifetime opportunity for most people - I dream of finding an Airflow. Keep the 38 (yes I am biased) and sell the 53 which was out of date when it was first sold.
  2. In March I posted brief details on fixing the window and door handle mechanisms. I am rewinding a bit here to add some detail about how to fix an Aussie rear window winder, which is quite different from the US ones, tho much of the process is the same. The Aussie window handles have a brake mechanism with a pot metal boss that expands with age and seizes up. To remove the door panel, first remove the handles. With the Aussie splined handle you insert a thin blade screwdriver under the handle and push the clip in, then wiggle the handle off the spline. Next remove the window trim then prise the panel off the door frame using a flat scraper or even better the proper tool which is readily available, see pic1 for detail. The panel is held on by clips pressed into holes in the frame. The design of clip will depend on who did the retrim. Undo the 4 window winder bolts and slide the mechanism down and out, much easier than later models, and disengage from the glass channel. To disassemble winder, hold flat in vice, use vice-grips to take tension off spring, and prise end of spring off post with heavy screwdriver, see pic2. Note adjustment bolt position then remove bolts to clean and lubricate the gears To fix seized boss, turn over mechanism and grind three lugs off boss, see pic 3. If you have a friend with a lathe, you can mount the boss assembly and take a thin skim off the pot metal boss, which then enables you to get it all apart. I didn't at the time so put it in the drill and used a file to skim it, see pic 4. Take a picture of the helical spring position from the back before you pull it apart as otherwise you will have difficulty putting it back together and it won't function properly, see pic 5, 6 and 7 for details. I can guarantee you will still have fun getting it together right! Lubricate sparingly with grease then reassemble and tack weld the boss back into the mechanism. The final pic is of the 7 passenger rear winder mechanism, quite different to the 4 door sedan.
  3. Unfortunately cheap shipping usually means no tracking, no insurance and no comeback for buyer or seller. I imagine sellers can get burnt by this too. Like Andydodge I am in Oz and my experience in shipping is you get what you pay for, even tho it hurts. I recently paid $US 75 shipping for a $US 75 detroit style uni joint repair kit in a small box, $225 in real $A, and it was poorly made rubbish. I eventually got back the item cost but no apology, no shipping refund and still no uni joint. All that from a seller I have used several times for big purchases with 100% success. Needless to say I wont order anything from them again. My preferred solution for poorly fitting rubber is ordinary black roofing silicone to fill the gaps. It is cheap and with a bit of care you cant detect where it was done, and it outlasts the rubber. I used it on my 38 Plymouth in 1980's when I was donated a roll of Chev rubber that almost fit. It and the rubber were still A1 when I removed the windshield in 2012 for total rebuild, and I will do the same again.
  4. Sounds like a good compromise, should give you many miles of service. Just dont push it so hard!!
  5. As stated above, there is rust and then there is rust. If its minor, your approach may work. A badly rusted bore will never free up with penetrating oils. When rust forms it expands and seizes things up. I would be wary about using a chemical such as mollasses, not sure what it would do to aluminum pistons or bore, it does attack metal also. If you wanted to try something like this, try an acid based radiator cleaner suitable for alloy blocks. They have inhibitors to minimise metal attack. Like Keithb7 above I found an engine for my 38 Plymouth sitting in the bush with head off, originally a T series out of a Dodge truck but same block. My old school mechanic stripped head and crank, then poured about 1/2" of gasoline on top of each piston and lit it, outdoors of course, surprising how quietly it burns. Did that about three times then took a block of hardwood and a small sledge. All except one came out easy, the last one took a lot of hammering. Put the hone thru, sent block to get one bore resleeved and rest taken out to suitable oversize, put it back together and it still runs ok (no longer in car but ran it 10 mins before starting teardown. It wont be going back in because I have a couple of P6 blocks and want to go original.
  6. You might try posting on facebook group "1930-1950 Dodge/Plymouth in Australia (Early "Mopar Only). Reasonably active group and some know-how.
  7. I am in the same club as many of you. Most of the tuning gear has been in the cupboard for years, only ever use the timing light. Maybe I should pull out the dwell meter seeing as my hearing is no longer A1, at least that's what my chief assistant tells me.
  8. My 55-56 Mopar parts list has a table of exchange brake shoe/lining sets which lists both 10" and 11" brakes for 1949-1954 Dodge, 11" only for 55-56, so your brakes could well be original 10" and you should get them exchanged. Nothing is certain on a car this old. My 55 V8 wagon is supposed to have 11" rear brakes and 3.54 diff but someone has changed out the complete assembly for an earlier with 10" brakes and 3.9 diff ratio, most unfortunately. Initial adjustment of these brakes is very important. Ideally the linings should be matched to the drums. You then need to set them up with an adjusting tool. There is good info on this site on overhauling brakes, see the Technical section. There has also been a post by Sam Buchanan on how to make an adjusting tool, and I recall there is a member who sells one.
  9. Have posted rocker pics on forwardlook forum http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=54746&posts=15#M598799
  10. My 55 rockers are similar but taper slightly towards rear. I cut the outer skin about 5mm inside the sill step, and fabricated a replacement for the bottom 2/3, 4 sections and 3 bends, plug welded with mig on the horizontal face of the sill, minimal grinding and a touch of body filler on inner sill step. Also had to cut out 50mm of rusty inner sill plate and plug welded the replacement, again with joggled joint. Left the centre pillar base alone as it was good, cut rocker face about 25mm below pillar base. Have pics but of 55 so probably not suited to this forum? I could post them on the forwardlook forum if you want, as was planning to add them. The hard part is reproducing the rocker ends.
  11. For the rocker panels you could maybe try your local small trailer fabrication business to fabricate the parts. I have a Detroit bodied 55 Plymouth and while parts are available from US by the time you factor in exchange rate and transport they would cost a mint. I worked out what parts to replace, made careful measurements as they taper a bit, sketched it up and took them to the local trailer place. They made them from 1.2mm sheet which is thicker than normal, and worked out very quick, excellent and very cheap at $22 each.. I didnt try and replace the whole assembly, just the lower rusted part, and used joggled lap joints with spot welds. That way it wasnt off road too long.
  12. I tackled the drivers side lower cowl (right side) next, again oxy welding. I had seen an article on how a NZ restorer did it so followed his example, cut the outer skin up high where I could control the weld better, drilled out the spot welds around edges, and pulled it off to expose the rusty inner layer and sill end. Again there were three layers to remake patches for. Fixed the sill and inner layer (without the ribs as they are hidden), patched the outer skin and welded it back on, using brazing around the edges and to hold the inner and outer skins together at the bottom. Reasonable happy with the result.
  13. The bell housing locates with two pegs and should not be any alignment issues. I have done several 201 flathead engine/bell housing swaps, from the original P6, to the T series engine that I ran for many years, to the replacement P6 I am putting in now.
  14. Time to move on to rust repairs. As I mentioned at the start of this post, the Aussie 7 passenger roof is constructed by cutting the sedan in half and inserting 20 inches in the middle. The profiles didn’t match so they filled the whole area with up to ½ inch of lead, bog 1930’s style. Over the years the lead cracked, moisture got in and the edges of the roof rusted away. Water and dirt also found its way into the lower parts of the body, in particular the centre pillars which had no drain holes. I completed those repairs but when I stripped the hood lining to get ready for the upholsterer in the 1980’s I discovered severe rust under the lead over front and back doors which had to be cut out and replaced. That killed my date with the upholsterer. The car was used for a while but eventually died and my interest switched to my 29 Tourer. In the intervening years, rust took hold again in the lower body as we then lived only 2 streets from the Indian Ocean and its southwesterly winter gales. So starting in 2012 I resolved to restore the old lady before my joints seized up. Things like house reno, garden and purchase of a 55 Plymouth wagon have diverted us some, but we are plugging on. Rust repairs on the 29 were done using old school oxy acetylene welding. The body was a simple metal skin over a wooden frame. I started out on the 38 using the same, but the 38 body has layer upon layer of metal which is way more complex and very hard to manage heat distortion due to lack of access to hammer things back straight. First to tackle was left front lower cowl, only a small amount of rust but three layers of metal to remove and replace, ie rocker, cowl inner and cowl outer, and lots of lead filler on the rocker that had to be removed first. All went ok until I replaced the outer skin, as old metal was a bit thin and no access to hammer straight. Should have cut higher. But I coated all visible rusty surfaces with Fertan, injected fish oil into the rocker, and put a drain hole in the inner skin so next time it wont rust! It will need a bit of bog (no worse than the original lead) but have sealed it for now with undercoat and scrap top coat to prevent rust.
  15. If you decide to disassemble the synchro to clean and lube it, the notes below are available on Vanpeltsales website. They specialise in Ford and I have wondered whether the parts are interchangeable as they look identical. The process is simple but needs care to avoid losing bits.
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