falconvan
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Everything posted by falconvan
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Hopefully I can get by with bearings and gaskets. Gears look good and everything seems to move easy.
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So I pulled the side cover but couldn’t really see in there laying on my back so I went ahead and pulled the trans. I’m glad I did. The problem with the shifter was the selector cam not lined up right in the fork. Looks like someone pulled the cover and didn’t put it back on with both forks in the neutral position. So all the gears work now but I noticed a noise in the front when spinning the input shaft. Don’t think I would have made it very far like this.
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That’s what I thought. No spring action; just flops back and forth.
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Nice! I’ll have to try that. You running points or an electronic ignition?
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Thanks! And thanks Enito for sending me an exploded view of the trans. Actually I found it in my manual, too. Judging from the picture it feels like the cam on the back of the selector arm either broke or came off. You can feel it’s not engaging in the R/Low shift fork; it just flops back and forth with one finger. Guess I need to pull it out and see what the story Is. Picture is upside down for some reason.
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Lol! I feel pretty shiftless myself right now. No, they’re in the right spot. No matter which way I move the selector arm I still only get 2nd and 3rd year. And like I said, the selector arm swings back and forth with almost no resistance. What does this arm connect to inside of the trans? I’ve got a manual but it doesn’t have an exploded view.
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I just finished putting in a 1950 Plymouth 3speed trans and I have no reverse or first gear. I tried adjusting the rod with no luck. A couple questions: 1) the selector arm on the trans be moving toward the front of the trans when selecting reverse/first, correct? 2) should the selector arm have and kind of resistance or spring when moving it? Mine moves back and forth really easy, almost like it’s not connected to anything inside the trans. I’m wondering if something come loose or broke inside. Any help is most welcome!
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Nice job!
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I really should have this done in a week or so barring any unforeseen issues. I dropped the parts for the driveshaft off at the driveshaft shop and it will be done Wednesday. The rear leaf springs had some broken leafs so I swapped in a pair I had left over from a 47 Plymouth this morning. About all that’s left after that is bleed the brakes, put on the hood, and install the heater box and a radio. I like the ones that go quick and don’t rape your bank account.
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The pile of parts is shrinking!
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I recently built a 58 Dodge truck and did a Dakota front stub swap. I ended up going back with the flathead but it was an easy suspension upgrade and could have easily dropped a V8 in. I just bought an 87 Dakota parts truck, used the front stub and rearend in the 58, sold off the rest. It really made the truck drive and stop nice.
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Nice! Quite an undertaking
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Fatman’s makes an MII but you have to cut the frame and weld on a frame stub. Truthfully these are good independent suspensions with several options for upgrade. Scarebird makes a disc brake kit or you can make your own with Explorer parts. You can swap in a Cavalier rack and pinion or I think there’s a G body steering box swap on here somewhere. Lots of different ways to upgrade these. Just search the technical section; you’ll find lots of great ideas.
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Coming back together...
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It actually came with the car when I got it; the guy who had it before me had put it in but not glued it down.
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Got a ton of stuff done the last few days. Finished some wiring bits, got the exhaust put on, got the parking brake working, got the carpet glued down and the seat in, and started cleaning up the front clip pieces to start putting the front end back together. Hopefully I’ll be wrapping it up in May.
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I’d keep the flathead. If you decide you would rather go more modern; a 318 with either a 904 or 727 auto trans. Another interesting choice I’ve considered is to find a good running Mercedes 300D and swap in the diesel drivetrain. You can get those cars dirt cheap and those OM617 diesels will run forever. Usually rust kills the body on them long before they have mechanical problems.
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Very slick!
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It's one of those Carter YF knockoffs they sell on Ebay. $65 brand new.. I had one on a slant six and was really impressed with it.
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Got my carb switched out today and it really runs great. Swap was super easy; very little modifications.
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I ended up drilling a 7/16 hole in the back of the block and using a 1/4” steel rod to help push it to the front. Then I threaded the hole for a 1/2” plug.
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Interesting; may have just been the trans itself. I’m happy with the direction I went. You want a spare Fluid coupling and trans for your Desoto? Free to a good home, just come pick it up.
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Thanks!
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The seat came from a late model Dodge extended van. The shape and length were right on but it had to be lowered 4” and needed sliders so you can adjust it. So I got some universal sliders from Amazon and built a mount with some angle iron and rectangle tubing . I think it came out really good.
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Finished up the wiring today; much neater looking. Starting on building a mount for the seat tomorrow.
