falconvan

So this is what I’m going to try on my a Desoto; going to pick up Plymouth running gear this weekend to use the trans on my 237.

After finding the flywheel surface of the Fluid Coupling in really bad shape and the seal leaking badly, I decided just to change over to Plymouth parts and have a regular three speed manual.. I'm going Friday to pick up a good running 218 and three speed; will resell the 218.

I've moved a few different Mopar cars/trucks brake and clutch pedal assemblies to the firewall. I usually use Jeep brake/clutch pedal assemblies and convert the clutch to hydraulic. The parts themselves run about $500 but it is a pretty good amount of fabricating. You need a welder. But the results are nice.

Will do! I’m going to go ahead and pull it apart. Other than the oil leaks it ran great, quiet, good oil pressure, plugs burned clean; but when I pulled the side covers it had a ton of sludge in around the valve springs. It needs a serious internal cleaning and everything checked.

Absolutely. Sold the 360 today. Looks better after a couple cans of degreaser and an hour with the power washer.

Started disassembly today. Look like the oil leaks were mainly coming from the front and rear crank seal. The amount of built up sludge under the car is unreal and look like it has been going on for many years. So the plan for the engine is just a good cleaning and replacing all the gaskets as long as the insides look good. I also got this rebuilt 360 with the car but I think I’d rather stay with the flathead as long as it’s in good shape internally. I have to make a decision on a transmission. The clutch surface on the fluid coupling is grooved and cracked really bad. Plus the the Gyromatic didn’t shift right at all so fit now I’m thinking of either a regular 3speed manual Fluid Drive from a Dodge, or switching over to the Plymouth 3 speed manual. I really don’t want a gear shift sticking through the floor so that leaves a five speed swap out. But it was good progress for day 1.

Very nice looking car!

Several ways to do it; Ford Explorer parts can also be made to fit.

When I rebuilt a 58 Dodge steering box the place I got the parts from recommended mixing 90w and axle bearing grease until you got a consistency between the two and using that. Worked well and didn't leak.

Welding the fluid coupling ? Never heard of that, can you do that?

Yes it would. Looks like he hasn't posted for a couple of years; I just found this thread through a search.

Yeah, I think so. I'd like to leave the work the previous owner did to the car and work from there. I'm just about convinced to leave the Fluid Coupling and just go with the standard 3 speed manual that was in the Dodge Fluid Drive cars. Seems like they are cheap and plentiful plus it would basically be a bolt in. Since I'm pulling the motor and trans to fix all the oil leaks, I hate to put the Gyromatic back in without knowing if I can get it to work right. It would suck to have to pull it again if I cant get it worked out.

Very cool! I know this is an old thread but I just picked up a Fluid Drive Desoto with the Gyro-matic and am thinking of doing this or just leaving the Fluid Coupling and swapping in the Fluid Drive 3 speed manual.

Looks like the truck bellhousing. I converted mine to hydraulic.

If I can find someone that has successfully converted one to 12 volt I'll probably keep it. So far all I'm reading is a lot of stories of people who tried it and it couldn't get it to work right.

Yeah, I read that in a few other places. I guess another option would be to find one of the three speed manual transmissions that came with the Fluid Drive coupling. It seems like one of the 48 Dodge sedans I had was set up like that.

Transmission looks like this one.

They have new wiring on them so I would think they must have stepped it down somewhere. The whole car has been rewired and it looks like they did a good job but that doesn't mean everything is right.

Thanks; I think I've got the Gyromatic. It has two solenoids on the trans and a high/low range on the shift. It feels mushy taking off in high range and wouldn't shift into 4th unless you got it almost to 40MPH and let off the gas. By then the RPMs are really high and it doesn't always upshift. The idle is hanging; may have something to do with it. Also, if you sit stopped in gear with your foot off the clutch it only runs a few seconds before it dies. But it does cruise pretty nice in 4th once you get it to shift and get going. I drove it home for an hour at about 55-60 mph and it rides pretty smooth. I'm also wondering when they rewired the car and did the 12 volt conversion if that has something to do with the issues? I think I would rather fix what's there as long as it can be made to work right.

Good to see people taking advantage of all the good, serviceable four door vintage rides left out there. Great car; nothing wrong with a good old crew cab.

I just brought this home over the weekend. Neat old Mopar that has already had some nice upgrades. It'd been fully rewired and converted to 12v and has a nice front disc brake conversion kit on it. The only thing I'm not real crazy about is the semi-auto trans and the Fluid Drive. The motor runs excellent and it drives pretty decent but it leaks oil from the front crank seal, the oil pan, the rear main, and the side tappet covers which has made an unbelievable mess underneath. Just a lot of 70 year old dried out gaskets and seals. So I think i'm going to go ahead and pull the drive train, clean everything up and put a full gasket kit in it and reassemble. While I'm at it I'm trying to decide to keep the stock trans setup or switch to a regular three speed manual using a Plymouth bell housing, trans, flywheel, shift rods, etc. I know I'd have to more the rear cross member but does anyone know if the column shifter has the positions for a standard three speed?

Made a small change this week. The Fiero pedals worked ok but were just a little short. I got the pedals from a Jeep and was able to make them work in the Fiero pedal assembly. I also got this propane furnace several months ago and just got around to tearing it down, cleaning everything up and rewiring it. It fires great, just need to put the flue on and no more torpedo heater.

This truck had a relatively new master cylinder and pressure switch before I did the brake swap. Anyone need it?

Right on, thanks.

Awesome; that will be one cool ride!