falconvan

If you're looking for a lowbuck lowering method here's what I did on my 48 Dodge rat rod and it worked great. Remove the lower control arm and cut the spring mounting plate off of the top of it. It's just held on with a few rivets. There's a brace on the bottom of the arm, cut this off, too. Trim the edge of the spring mount bracket so that it can be relocated to the bottom of the control arm and will sit flush. Weld into place. I attached the lower spindle to it while I was doing it to keep everything straight. It worked perfect and gave me a 2 inch drop. I also cut 1 coil out of my springs to give me another inch, but not necessary. Here's a before and after shot of the control arm (after on the left), and a shot of some brackets I made to relocate the top shock mount. You dont have to do this part but the ride is many times better if you do. 1967-72 Chevy truck front shocks worked really good.

I've painted headers but never had much luck with longevity, always seems to burn off after a short time.

I've got a set of them on the frame I built for my 48 Plymouth and I like them very much. They came with brackets to relocate the upper shock mount from the upper control arm to the frame. Everyone I've talked to said this made a huge difference in the ride. But if your looking for a lowbuck lowering method here's what I did on my 48 Dodge rat rod and it worked great. Remove the lower control arm and cut the spring mounting plate off of the top of it. It's just held on with a few rivets. There's a brace on the bottom of the arm, cut this off, too. Trim the edge of the spring mount bracket so that it can be relocated to the bottom of the control arm and will sit flush. Weld into place. I attached the lower spindle to it while I was doing it to keep everything straight. It worked perfect and gave me a 2 inch drop. I also cut 1 coil out of my springs to give me another inch, but not necessary. Here's a before and after shot of the control arm, and a shot of some brackets I made to relocate the shocks. 1967-72 Chevy truck front shocks worked really good.

Thanks, Frank I have to thank my wife for letting me build the garage, she's an amazingly tolerant woman! It helps that she really likes the old cars, too. Don't know what I'd do without her. I've been scrolling through the threads the last few days and there are some beautiful cars on here. I hope I can get mine to look as good when it's finished.

I have a front and rear seat for 48 Dodge 4 dr sedan; need recovered but springs and adjusters are good. Does anyone want these before I pitch them? Getting ready to clean out the garage before I start on my coupe body.

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It was a lot of fun to build. Here's a little review:

Sure, come on by. I'm in Festus. I'm not totally sold on the way I've got the rack set up, yet. I may end up redoing it before it's all said and done. I just sold a 50 sedan for a parts car not long ago.

I had to make a floor with a trans tunnel and build mounts but other than that, not too bad. If you've got a welder and a plasma cutter, you can make anything work! I made a unistrut frame for the bed and attached the bed sides to it. These are really great chassis to work with for building something like this.

Just wanted to say Hi. I'm new to the forum. I'm in Missouri; a little south of St Louis. I've got a 48 Plymouth 2 dr coupe I'm building into a street rod. It's getting a lowered chassis, disc brakes, rack & pinion, and a Dodge Dakota rear along with a 5.3/4L60E combo. I've also got a rat rod made from a 48 Dodge sedan chassis and drivetrain with a 54 GMC cab, and a cut down 65 Chevy bed. I had the chassis and flathead left over from a parts car and the old flathead just ran too good to not do something with it. looks like you guys have some really nice cars on here.