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wayfarer

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Everything posted by wayfarer

  1. "Water-based" to me, simply indicate the system I use in my hot-tanks: ZEP # 9878 for ferrous metals and ZEP # 15282 for non-ferrous. These are water based, work best at 120° or more, and do an amazing job. For small jobs that I wanted to clean in a fresh tank I just put 'x' amount of powder in a 5-gal bucket and poured in hot tap water.
  2. If you search for: u-joint size chart you will find a lot of dimensional detail that may lead you to a replacement.
  3. Not knowing what your end-goal is, I'll suggest that you also look at Robert Horne's 5-speed swap for another option. I am unable to paste anything here so search for: 5 speed, not t5
  4. I'm with Plymouthy Adams. I have seen many well done clips including the 1st Gen Dakota on both cars and trucks. Personally, I am a big fan of the Jaguar IFS as well as the IRS. The terms 'Fatman' and 'reasonably priced' are mutually exclusive.
  5. AllPar has a readable listing, but for some reason I am unable to paste anything in this forums reply box...ggrrr.. long hand... http://www.allpar.com/model/rwdbodies.html hope this works...
  6. You might want to check that engine id code. The 230 is a 23" engine. I would be shocked to see a 4-bolt crank pattern on any 25" crank. The 172 tooth ring gear started in 1957 on the v-8's, and the crank flange projection of the pre-62 v-8 is the same 1.1875" as the L-6. The bell housing will be different between the 146 and 172 wheel simply due to the wheel diameter and the resulting starter location.
  7. Yup, pay attention to the flywheel/starter interface. The 23" 201-208-218 has a different flywheel (most are 4-bolt) than the rest of the L6 engines due to the distance from the block to the crank flange (1" vs 1.1875"). If you have a 230 wheel (6 or 8 bolt) it should work with no issues on a 25" assembly. Checking on the garage floor is easier than fixing the problem when it is in the car/truck.
  8. Wow! Lots of nice cars there. Yeah, from our 2013 view it sure looks good in 1950, but what issues were bugging the average guy then? Korea was on the top of the list I'm sure.
  9. ...words do have meanings... Fully agree on the need to have a good-hard look at the intended use for any compressor. So many folks simply expect too much from a too-small unit not understanding the air consumption part and relying on hp as the be-all/end-all.
  10. Thanks for the assist...must just be my compooter machine acting up, although I don't seem to have the same problem elsewhere.
  11. I really don't think that a 2 or 3hp motor on 110v is very compatible with a 2-stage compressor. In fact, not sure that I have ever seen less than 5hp on 2-stage. Best starting point is to copy all of the information from both data plates and let us have a look-see. As Don mentioned, with the compressor data plate info you should be able to get a service manual and from there you can look for parts, or, find a repair shop. I think you will be needing a 5hp or larger motor, and, 220v would be preferred. After you have the motor sorted out then deal with the electric service required.
  12. I attempted to post a link here to two different forums for a swap that you could follow...no worky, for what ever reason. In fact I can't seem to paste anything into this reply!!!??? Can any of you really smart compoooter types explain why? Anyway, One project, two forums, lots of good info. Forum: For Dodge Trucks Only thread title: 52 Dodge B3B Hemi Project Forum: HAMB thread title: 52 Dodge B#B Hemi Project
  13. The 'best' frame will be the one it came with.... What on earth is the fascination with using a pile of shiverlay parts on a Mopar? Makes no sense to me. If you think you need to upgrade the front to ifs then use a first generation Dakota. Plenty of early Daks on craigslist to be bought cheap.
  14. No one has mentioned Fastenal as a possible shipper. Of course you have to have a Fastenal store at both ends....
  15. Like Andy says, "no replacement for displacement". A fresh 230 will get the job done but a fresh 250 will do it easier. If you have space in your shop consider stuffing the old engine in a corner instead of the trash can......someone may have a need. Where are you located?
  16. Vaseline is also a good 'grease' to use.
  17. I recall hearing of that method. Never tried it, but, consider that some soap had high % of phosphorus back in the old days of soap. (Because of the phosphorus, powered soap was useful in Vietnam when we made 'foo-gas'...) With a decided lack of phosphorus in todays soap it may or may not clean as well as in the old days.
  18. MotherMopar was light years ahead of the game by keeping the housing the same as the mech units. For the AX15 swaps I have been involved in it is just a simple matter to plug in a TF gear assembly. GM folks seem to like doing things the hard way...
  19. Yup, different dinosaurs.
  20. You indicate 'swapping flywheels'...just a reminder, if you are using the 230 crank you must also use the 230 flywheel.
  21. Here is where a lot of folks get tired of chasing the odd-ball parts. If the engine is a 315 then 4-bbl intakes do show up on occasion. Yes, the 315 Hemi intake bolts onto the 315 Poly engine. If the engine is a 270 then finding an oem 4-bbl is problematic...however...Offy make a 1x4 and a 2x2 intake (Exeter Auto Parts). NO, due to a change in deck height, 270 manifolds do not interchange on a 315, vice-versa. Now, as far as actual performance goes, if you have a 2-bbl intake you might consider adapting a 70's vintage Holley 2-bbl from a 360/400. They move plenty of air for a 315. No, they are not as sexy as a 4-bbl....
  22. You might be surprised what 10:1 c/r and a lumpy cam can do for the Dodges...
  23. ...if you can freeze a tree to a point that it ruptures then I would not trust antifreeze. Bare iron doesn't care how cold it gets. Have you ever considered moving a bit farther south??
  24. ...I'd like to 'talk' with one of those hackers some day.....
  25. Well, the price is right on the Chrysler! And, getting some extra cash to help with the '39 is good planning in my book. In the whole scheme of things, the 54 Chrysler is not all that big. Compared to something like a 59 Chrysler wagon it is down right small...
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