wayfarer

Have you looked at Robert Horne's 5-speed swap? If not, start reading. ...and you will probably be the only guy in line for the purchase...

As said, you should have talked with Charlie. He may have been able to send the paper work out ahead of the box.

Hey dodger, are you still driving that truck? Any updates on the serviceability side of things?

Looking forward to the posts and photos on the next swap! I have referred many folks to this thread when they need to maintain the oem bell and want a 5-speed. Thanks for lots of good info.

If you are good enough at fabricating to install a Volare ifs then you should be able to modify the pan if needed...

You really don't want the old truck 4-speed. The t-5 swap will allow you to maintain the stock bell, but read through Mr Horne's swap thread using the Ranger trans as it may prove easier and cheaper than the t-5. One other option is to locate the bell used in the late 50's that has both the L6 and V-8 block bolt patterns. While I don't know if the side mounts are the same as yours, it is easy enough to mount a late A-833 4-spd or 3+1 OD. The Ranger setup will still be cheaper unless you have an A-833 under the work bench.

Looks like there were some real bargains on the 'not-a-shiverlay' listing. And, as I expected, plenty of crazy people spending crazy money on emotion and speculation. I guess if 'ya got it, flaunt it...

I agree with DJ194950. The 'A' dimension for spring pads is arbitrary as is the 'B' track width. Late model axles usually require replacement pads and rims drastically alter track dimension. IMHO, the only number of importance is the wms to wms number. In some applications, the amount of pinion offset can be of importance but it is generally not a huge number. If some of you folks want to measure your various oem rear axles and send me a note I'll post the list on my website along with my list of late model units for comparison. .

Bill, I have heard good things about American Autowire, what is your opinion?

The 8¾ assembly is bullet proof but perhaps wider than most of 'our' cars really need/can use. I have widths listed on my web pages if you want to compare to your stock axle. Given the relative cheap prices I am a fan of the 8.8 ford unit. They are very durable. As a side note, my understanding is that all axles from the 2-dr 'Sport' are positraction (or whatever ford calls it...)

The 23" version of the 201-208-218 are the same engine. If you can get a 230 type wheel it may have the correct pattern. I don't think there was a lot of variation in the day, and, given the age, it could have more than one pattern already. If not, it is a fairly simple procedure to redrill a flywheel for a new pressure plate pattern when needed. With the 201 flywheel, and all else being essentially stock, you will need to verify that moving the PP closer to the T/O bearing does not create a problem...that small amount should be ok but take a good look at the parts as assembled and verify. Yes, your 4-bolt is of the same pattern as the 8-bolt.

If you already have some kind of 'bolt-on' kit then perhaps an hour of shop time ($100) will suffice. However, if you are expecting the shop guy to design and fabricate the mounting hardware you will be spending considerably more, even if the shop rate is less. An alternator can be had from most pik-a-part yards for $20 or so and you get to choose what will work best for your change. Also, making the connection to the wiring harness and possibly adding an electronic regulator will add even more even if your wiring is in great condition. If the condition of your wiring is at all suspect then perhaps you need to rethink the project.

A couple of random thoughts... First, if you use a 218 flywheel on a 230 crank the ring gear will be moved aft by 0.187". This is the difference between the flange positions (measured from the face of the block) on the oem applications; 1" for the 218 and 1.187" for the 230 and larger engines. The flywheel was changed to allow the bell be unchanged. If you must use the 218 flywheel then look at Don's pic of the machined relief in his bellhousing for the starter as it will need to follow the ring gear. As to flange thickness, I have measure many flanges and they all seem to vary a bit. The added material will always be on the back side so that the extension remains the same. The difference that you will likely find is that your 218 flywheel is probably a 4 bolt design, maybe a 6 bolt, and the 230 crank is an 8 bolt. The 4 bolts may do an ok job for your 'stockish' package since that is part of the oem design. You don't have a giant torque monster. Is a 6 bolt arrangement better? Well, consider that the 440 powered GTXs and Road Runners of the 60's only had 6 bolts..... Do you need 8? no. If you need to make new holes in the flywheel I would suggest a milling machine so as to get the hole size and placement exact. IMHO, any 230 crank will do what you need it to do, regardless of the oem application.

Any modern 10" or 10½" PP will provide more than enough clamping force for your engine, just be sure your T/O bearing is compatible with the finger design. And, if needed, you can use a 10" disc with an 11" PP

Here is a link to Robert Horne's 5-speed swap. This is great for maintaining the stock bell. http://p15-d24.com/topic/17737-5-speed-not-t5/ If you can swap bellhousings then look at my website for the AX15 swap.

...don't mix the 218 and 230 flywheels...

...zoomies... that's pretty funny...except something in the link caused a hiccup in my system...

The 904 series (998, 999, A500) is probably the best of the 'new' automatics mostly due to lower internal parasitic losses. When you only have 100hp to start with you really don't want to waste much...

On my web site I have photos showing the 904 attached to the L6 and you can make a good guess as to the change in starter location between the two transmissions and how it relates to the steering box. All this assumes that your engine is still in the truck... Last photo: http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=616

Yeah, just wondering how the antifreeze/coolant knows that the engine is a 1993 and not a 1994 model????????

...walked through....

The car really doesn't care how you get up to speed, L6 or V8, but you should care about how you will stop it.... Unless you have a #1 resto then adding better brakes is just cheap insurance against the idiot in the rice rocket stopping short in front of you.

As Bill mentions, the Dodge 241 and some of the 270 Hemi engines did not have ears on the sides of the blocks. The used a front mount very similar to the L6 unit. As to the 3rd mount it should not be rigid, more like suspenders to go with the belt...

Bill, I was wondering the same thing. Although the trans is not real heavy the extra cross member could be a good thing. I am more concerned about the apparent lack of contact at the slip yoke as it does not appear to be well engaged. Coupled with the lack of cross member this could be a problem.

That should be a great project. I think that the 4.0 is an excellent engine.