wayfarer

The driver side windshield appears to have some sort of 'extra' layer either inside or out...ice guard or ?? any clues?

Are 'those' people so dense that they cannot simply look at photos of the various years and make a logical decision as to the model year? Yeah, best get their list of 'official' and 'acceptable' documentation. Geesh

...the smaller the bore the greater the velocity (up to a point)... In a pressurized system the small bore in the intake will act as a choke point but at what rpm and at what psi? We are talking about 230 inches and not some race piece...aren't we?

Generally, you are safe to ignore the "-" numbers as these are production related. As Don says, it is probably a 230. Here is a link to ID info: http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

Thanks for posting the photos, certainly not too many. Good to see that the weather was 'kind' to the gathering.

Hopefully, next year the BBQ and the Portland swap meet won't be on the same weekend. Looking forward to seeing the photos!

Depending on the cam manufacturer, the type and amount of 'hardening' varies a great deal. Reground cams do not get any hardening treatment but they will (or should) get a Parkerizing bath...That is the 'black' coating cams have and it is a sacrificial coating for the initial startup. Some folks will argue that any zinc in the oil will somehow bond to the cam lobe surface and act as an anti-wear element. I dunno, if the zinc bonds to the cam lobe then it would also bond to everything else and eventually we would find some build-up...wouldn't we? Subjects like this are almost as bad as political issues.

...the guy works in a 'little old school'??? For shops that do it on a regular basis it takes about 10 minutes, no need to buy a tool set unless you are a tool junkie and enjoy the learning curve.

I agree with greg g and thrashincows. The oil subject seems to be a never ending theme. I'll add my 2¢ Flat tappet lifters, either hyd or solid, require the lubricity provided by zinc and phosphorus. No more, and no less complicated than that. Will they, do they and can they survive without alot of zinc. No doubt. Diesel service oil? Oil rated for diesel is slightly different than oil rated for gas service since the diesel rigs are considered severe duty. But, last I checked, diesel engines still used bearing inserts of 'similar' design to gas engines inserts, and still require that the oil provide the cushion, lubrication and cooling to protect the various components that need oil to survive....just like a gas engine. My wifes Durango has had a steady diet of the same 15-40 that goes into my 5.9 Cummins and at 145K it still runs fine. My flat tappet engines get oil with zinc or a zinc additive and I'm not a brand snob. My experience says poor maintenance and short driving cycles (not up to temp) cause most oil related problems. You get to define 'poor' maintenance.

I have heard this on numerous occasions as I have been pondering the replacement of my '02...guess that I'll just keep pondering....

You might consider welding a piece of bar stock to the inside of the frame where bolts need to go. Drill and tap the piece for the bolt pattern needed and tack it in place...it should not require massive welds to hold position.

There are multiple reasons that MotherMopar went to Electronic in 1970 and overall better engine performance was one of them. With the Mopar electronic system parts certainly are available everywhere, and at low cost. The ballast resistor sells for about $2 so carrying a spare is a non-issue, and the ecu rarely fails but, again, spares can be tossed in the glove box. The single biggest and most common runability issue with the Mopar electronic system is loss of proper ground to the ecu which is an easy fix during the initial install.

The price is right, and, depending on the year, may a killer deal. If it is a 51-53 the price is OK, if a 54 then very good and if a 55 it is an excellent buy. But realistically, having sat for so long and a buyer not knowing anything about the rebuild (to some folks a fresh coat of paint qualifies...) then, basically, it needs to be disassembled. No doubt it has had its share of condensation over the years and should be throughly inspected. For the price of a gasket set someone gets piece of mind, or....a reason for a second rebuild....

I'll offer my 2¢... Just because the 241 is running does not mean that it is in good condition. Unless the engine has been rebuilt in the last 20 years it will, more than likely, need to be soon. These engines are quite durable but the non-detergent engine oil in the 50's along with marginal oil filters has, no doubt, caused alot of wear (usually the camshaft) as well as being responsible for plugging up the rocker assemblies (more wear). Yes, some folks get lucky. You can flush out as much old crap as you can and buy oil filters by the case but any damage will remain and the efficiency will be way down. The $750 would be high to me but I place no value on the original trans. If you are set on using the trans then the price may be reasonable. Since you are doing a swap perhaps a newer trans may be a consideration unless you have access to a 53 v-8 donor car for the little bits and pieces. Be sure to read through Pete's project fo tips and hints.

A very similar swap was recently completed by wolfhound423 over on the Hamb, check it out: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360864 It is worth doing if it is done right. .

•.060 over?? did you sonic check the cylinders before hogging it out? •Sodium filled stems were standard on truck engines. •In the 'old' days, we knurled guides because we didn't have K-liners, also called false guides. Very few shops use or recommend knurling in todays world.

Thanks ...I missed the reference to the party thread and wondered if there was another bbq in the works. Now if I can convince the misses that the whole day won't be all about trucks...

BBQ ?

...forums like this? Kinda sorta but different... http://www.fortrucksonly.com/ http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/ http://www.dodgeclassictrucks.com/ http://www.dodgetrucks.org/forums/index.php Yeah, get out the tape measure.

The DeSoto is slightly smaller so it might save a skinned knuckle or two... .

If you don't want to do the work then go over to the Hamb and you will find a guy called GMC Bubba. His business is rebuilding distributors; he gets high praise from forum members who use his services.

Care to share the details of the wash cabinet?

ID codes are on my web site. Many many engines were built with 'bumps' in the valve covers but not equipped with adjustable gear. The Industrial Chrysler is a prime example as ALL Industrial valve covers had bumps but in 40 years I have never seen adjustable rockers on one.... Another example is your L8D5, a Dodge 315 truck engine; all trucks used the plain valve covers with decals identifying the particular engine. Be cautious with relying on and interpreting the info in Ron's book...there are errors in the first printing and, although I haven't checked, I doubt that they were corrected in subsequent editions. Just sayin'. If possible, can you post a pic of the 'D533' stamp?

okaay...I pushed the wrong button...where is the DELETE THIS POST button ????????????????

...tweddle deet...i'm sorry, you have reached a nunber.....