wayfarer

Photos would be helpful. The casting number indicates a circa 1955 part so if it has a v-8 bolt pattern it is a likely candidate. The bigger question is whether or not the bell supports a useable transmission...measure the depth and post the number.

...some photos would be helpful... .

Have you read through Robert Horne's TOYO swap? http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/topic/17737-5-speed-not-t5/

Wow! I'm a Mopar kinda guy but that Ford wagon sure is a looker!

I think it would be easier to source the correct rod and brackets for the 318 and 904 than to buy a universal-fit-all that requires additional screwing around. At least with the oem parts you can refer to a factory service manual for adjustment procedures. The correct oem parts will, however, be specific to a Mopar throttle shaft on the carb so if a universal-fit-all carb is used then the cable gizmo may work out.

Just a reminder at this point. The inline 6 and inline 8 do not share anything in common regarding the oem bellhousing design. The 6 bells are puny in comparison to the 13" deep 8 cylinder housing and in addition, the crank flange and flywheel bolt pattern are vastly different, so yes, it would appear that an adapter is needed to install a different bellhousing that mounts the newer trans. Your results may vary... The prototype adapter that I made for the TF will easily mount a Dakota style bellhousing so an AX15 could be used, however, at this time, I have not had the time to investigate what to do for a flywheel. It will happen, I just can't say when. If there happened to be more than just casual interest I might bump the priority.

So far, all of the posting has been relative to working on essentially stock era cars, but if anyone is contempalting a hot-rod of some sort with the inline 8, I'll take the opportunity to insert a shameless plug for a modern trans adapter. I just finished a prototype for a fellow out in Conn for a pick-up truck project. It is a proto-type, it still needs some refinement, but at this point the TorqueFlite looks good. .

True enough, but it also has a 'goofy' registration/bolt pattern I tried to copy/paste a pic but it is not 'allowed' on this system..... Ask your browser for 'jeep nv3550 picture' and something should show up.

...no emergency brake..... Use the Ford...

There are some Toyota unit kinda like the Toyo unit that Robert used but the input shaft is a bit short. I have a pic of one but the system says it is too big to attach...I can email it if you like. The AX5, AX15, NV535 are useable 5-speeds for many Mopar applications but they have a goofy registration and require using the attached bell unless you can spend the big money and buy Novak's adapter. Pics on my web site. .

Robert, what input shaft length will the Stude bell require? There are many 5/6 speed units to consider but alot of the 'little' guys also have a fairly short shaft. Gary

I agree...sounds like it would only be a 'good' deal to some folks if all of the engines were complete and running...

Many folks avoid the 51-53 mostly due to the available trans options. There are plenty of manual adapters on the market, there aren't any automatic packages...yet...stay tuned for late breaking news... Second issue is all of the heresay crap on the internet that says the small port small valve heads are useless. Chrysler didn't think so when they built the K-310 engine. Well over 300 hp on 1952 gasoline and 1952 technology. C/R on that 'beast' was a whopping 8.5 IIRC. For the hot-rod crowd the lack of decent intake manifolds for the small-ish heads is a deal breaker and the high cost of old-timey Edmunds manifolds is sometimes crazy money. Someone in the foundry business could make some decent money on this one item. Also,keep in mind that the 51-53 crank is different than 54-58. If you swap them you will have starter/flywheel engagement issues on oem blocks. Now, back to your block......Assume that you can get an early block into your milling machine and you remove the extension, then what? You do not have anything freshly cut that is remotely close to where you will need trans bolts and the 'ring' that is left showing is marginally suited for D&T. So, now what? "Hell, I'll just weld on a new plate that looks like the trans pattern". Now the block is distorted from the furnace pre-heat that will be required and you will be machining everything to try and get it back to some sembalance of square. How many hours of machine time will that consume? remove extension, est 3 hours (includes set-up) buy and cut plate for new weldment, $20...todays bargain furnace pre heat, est 3 hours plate welding, est 2 hours furnace post heat and controlled cooling, 12 hours machine time to drill new pattern in welded plate, est 3 hours (includes set-up) machine time to restore decks, pan rail, block face, cam line bore and main line bore. est...days..... Any machining to the cam bores will require fat bearings that do not exist.... Even if all you do is whack off the extension and drill some new pattern in the back you are still likely in the 5-6 machine hours (I would guess it would closer to 6-8) and around here that runs $60-$80 per hour. $300 on the low end and, more likely, $600 or so at the top. If you really think that you can accomplish your goal for less than the cost of a later engine then please get busy and prove me wrong. I really wouldn't mind even being waaay off base, since there are plenty of 51-53 331 engines out there in hot-rod land. .

On an RB engine there is a machined flat area next to the distributor. The ID/use code will be stamped there and as mentioned, the block casting number is on the side of the block.

Yeah anything is possible, but cutting off the extension is simply not practical from any view point.

...what, if anything, has your engine builder told you about putting this project together? What kind of shop does he operate? Does he regularily rebuild old odd-ball engines (flatheads, early Cad-Olds-Studebaker, etc)? Is this his first EarlyHEMI? Does he pay the rent by working on shiverlays? No, you don't have to use adjustable pushrods with hydraulic lifters, BUT, the pushrods will then have to be custom made for the exact length after the engine is assembled (otherwise, how could you measure the gap?) As soon as you remove metal from a head, or the deck or the camshaft or the tip of the valve, or interchange a foreign valve into the mix or set the valve head too deep (bad idea) or if it is an older convex head and sits proud, or use a new design lifter, and and and...... The rocker arms themselves also add into the mix...they are scheduled for a rebuild...right? Would you or your builder actually expect the pushrod to remain useable with so many potential changes? The 'puck' in the hydraulic lifter has a very limited range where it will operate efficiently (and yes, some folks push not only their luck but also the limit) and most knowledgeable folks in the cam/lifter industry will agree that the pre-load on the puck needs to be in the 0.040" to 0.060" range (measured off of the snap ring). Ya got me a little more than concerned at this point...

...for the small Dodges we often use valves from a gm engine...your machinist should be able to identify the interchange. The actual condition of your cam core will determine what profiles you can choose from but most often .420 lift and dur around 210 at 50 will be the max. You will also require adjustable pushrods.

I won't belabour the subject, but...30hp? He's blowing smoke up your skirt. With larger combustion chambers you will lose compression...and with cast pistons you are lucky to have 7:1 to start. Perhaps he meant that you would lose 30hp... Yes, a small 4bbl in the 450 range will work. The Offy 2x2 is also a good package.

That is typical for the truck pieces. Now, if a guy wanted...the dimensions stack up in such a way that the A-833 just barely works without any adapter so you'll need to make new bolt holes on/into the bell and deal with the registration. Some flywheels are fat enough that you might pickup a ¼" and allow for a plate on the bell. There are vast differences in flywheels over the years-makes-models... A-833 input shaft oal=8.625, face of trans to end of splines = 6.125, back of the EarlyHemi block to face of oem flywheel = 2.125 The design of the clutch disc hub will determine % of spline engagement. .

Check to see what the other guys used, past that, the pickups used an easily modified bracket and rectangle biscuit. The 67-71 B body pieces may also be useful as a starting point.

Might be a good $1k gamble, fortunately they are just out of my reach...

Join the Moparts forum and/or do a search there. There are a couple of 55-56 with B&RB swaps. Another forum to look through is MoparStyle and maybe DiamondBack. I am of the opinion that those who say it won't fit either haven't tried it or somehow expect it to just drop in to the stock mounts...sheeesh... You are building a hot-rod, expect to do some work. Check with Butch, perhaps he has B&RB mounts.

...waaaaay too much, unless you have extra to throw around. What, exactly, is wrong with your 241 heads? We have built plenty of 241-260-270 engines with the smaller heads and they run just fine. You only have 241 inches. For $800 I'll sell you some forged pistons that will more than make up for the supposedly deficient heads.

That is one of them! All EarlyHemi (exc 51-53 331), Spitfire-Windsor-Poly and A series engines pre-62 shere the same bell housing bolt pattern. What is the depth of the bell in the pic? .

You should check into this group: http://www.39-47dodgetrucks.com/