wayfarer

Unless I am mistaken, and I admit to being fallible, I do believe that the OP has started several threads on several forums with the intent of installing some sort of late model computer driven whiz-bang shiverlay package. It is interesting, at least to me, that he has gone full circle. I also find it interesting that he has not been more involved in this thread....

...Love the exhaust...no doubt the neighbours will too! Lookin' good.

You can search for "rock auto discount" and find several codes at any one time. As mentioned, be sure to check the total shipping amount if there are multiple warehouses.

Keep in mind that most often, the factory numbers are just that: numbers. You/they can look at a dyno sheet and pick the hp or torque numbers from where ever you want from the curve. In fact, this was common in the 70's when the insurance industry started making noise about excessive hp output so the numbers were 'cherry-picked'. This is also why the industry changed to 'net' ratings; to get lower numbers. Basic hot-rodding rules say things like: ...if you increase compression you will increase hp/tq. If you increase valve lift and duration you will increase hp/tq. If you provide better flowing intake/exhaust you will increase hp/tq. These changes have been tested over and again during the last 70 years or so and they work. The factory builds engines that are suited to mass production for a wide variety of potential buyers all balanced by the bean-counters so there are many compromises to be found. You get to tailor your engine to your needs. So, essentially, if you make improvements, you will gain something. However, you may not get a 'seat-of-the-pants' improvement unless you have a transmission that can effectively transmit this new found power. A manual trans will do it, an M5...not so much.

Very interesting that the block would be so rusty as to obscure the stamped ID. Most often this area is covered with decades of grease. The stamping would look something like this 392 block:

Like you, I have only had the pleasure of talking with George. My wife is planning another EastCoast vacation and I hope I can squeeze in a detour.

Interesting topic for sure. If low-moderate power is the bottom line then why not swap for an L8? Last time I checked, more cubes = more torque. The suggestion to use a TBI eliminates all of the hassle of port injectors albeit not quite as efficient, but certainly as easy to programme and a lot easier to install. Also, keep in mind that the l6 is not a flyweight. You could easily install a 440 and not notice the weight difference. I find it interesting that you balk at a frame clip due to keeping it 'original' but I cannot ignore/forget that you were planning to install a shiverlay. Getting a modern feeling, steering, and driving ifs will require some sacrifices to made in terms of making 'it ' fit. Yes, the oem design is quite good for the time, but if you feel like you might be pushing the limits, or, have concerns about safely and/or reliability, then do a proper upgrade. I will echo the Jag IFS swap. The 'usual' donors are the pre-FJ40 series (mid year 1986) and they have a curb weight of about 3800lbs. Being a 5-pass sedan it is obviously designed for an additional 800lbs and still be roadworthy. The built-in safety factor likely accommodates another 1k. A friend is currently using a 2wd Dakota ifs in a swap/clip for a PilotHouse project and it is a very neat and tidy package. Some of the Dakota trucks weigh well in excess of 4000lbs. The Crown Vic was mentioned and is a nice 'bolt-in' but it is extremely wide; wms to wms is right at 65". You might even consider something along the lines of a mid/late 70's Chrysler T&C. Yes, frame mods would be required for many upgrades. Your car and your money.

Holiday greetings to all. I received, through my website, an email from Piyush at dhwani-impex and the message was : I make various parts for DPCD cars of yesteryears,for eg.Transmission small parts kit,universal joint repair kit (for ball and pin type),universal joints,axle oil seals etc,please contact if any interest. Has anyone heard of or possibly dealt with this company?

I once got some quotes for transporting a car some distance and decided that I could, for the estimated cost, drive to the car, buy a trailer and haul it home...and get a mini-vacation to boot.

...and you think that the shiverlay trans does not require an adapter...?? ...and a clarification.... Pat McGuire (Wilcap) does not sell the TF adapter, I do. Pat sells the gm adapter. (Frank, thanks for the nod!)

...but what about us old guys who are lactose intolerant...?

501?? If you are meaning the A518, (small block) then it can be used but requires an adapter AND requires that you chop off the dog-leg on the corner of the block.

I can't help with the front mount but there are plenty of fan spacers on ebay if you only ask....

While the bolt pattern may be the same as pre-62 TF, the starter mounting plate is not the same as that which is required for the TF.

There are a multitude of possible donors...just about everything in to the late 80's has something to offer. Obviously, the engine/trans will be largely unchanged and the axles will vary in width and gear ratio depending on application. The '66 you last mention could have one of several engines: slant six; 318A (also called 318Poly) or 383B. 95% chance it is a 318 and they are most excellent engines. Not quite as compact as the 67 and newer 318LA but a stout performer none-the-less. If you need one car to supply the majority of the parts you need then the 66 B-body is a good candidate.

Yeah, that kind of s-10 frame swapping thing is not for the faint of heart or pocketbook...and some of us actually frown on using shiverlay junk in/on an old Mope. The original frame is perfectly well suited to upgrades, the IFS is not as antiquated as a similar gm car, and several rear axles fit nicely where the stocker sits now. What is the attraction of a gm engine over that of a 318/360 ? The gm are certainly are no more reliable. Your car, your money, your choice

MaMopar never ceases to amaze me

I spotted this on another forum and it has folks a bit baffled. The lever opens/closes the vent, but to what purpose? This seat is from a '42 truck BTW. No indications that any thing was ever mounted under the 'vent', nothing on the floor. I've seen some odd-ball stuff from MaMopar but this is a good one. Any thoughts?

Yes. And surprise, surprise, the 'quote ' button actually worked for me.....

I have been having similar issues for some time now, not being able to cut/paste. Since I already have enough computer challenges to wear at me, I have decided that I just won't bother attempting any cut/paste operations on this forum. All of the issues that I have are only on this forum and mucking about trying to 'fix' things is likely to come back and bite me.

AAJ makes first class products, so you should not have issues with whatever they supply. IMHO however, I would be swapping the rear for either an Exploder or Cherokee, either disc or drum. The single important advantage is simply that parts for a 2000 (or whatever) axle will be around for a very long time. Eldorado parts? iffy.... Also, be sure to check out Robert Horne's 5-speed swap: 5 speed not t5

I am unable to use the 'quote' or cut and paste on this forum so I'll simply say that your comment about folks being "cost driven" sounds more like you think we are some kind of cheap bastards for wanting to have both a proper package and not wanting to mortgage the house to fund Fatmans retirement. And "doing things the old way" is somehow bad? Just because Fatman, or any other vendor, has a flashy product does it automatically make it 'the best choice', over and above all else, regardless of price? If price is of no concern then there are plenty of custom coach builders that will design and fabricate a complete frame assembly for you so why did you stop with simply installing a Fatman package? I'm glad that your car does everything that you need/want it to do and that the total cost was affordable to you. I also feel the same way toward anyone else with a street proven assembly that they could afford to build even if it is a lowly Dakota or Jag IFS.

I have a rear axle chart on my website for your perusal, E-body included. Link below

Without seeing a pic of the hole I would ask if it has a smooth bore...if so, install a cup-type core plug...just not sure what you refer to as a 'key-stock' plug. If the existing plug is threaded into the block then replace with similar. Some of the factory installed screw-in plugs have to be drilled out as they are incredibly tight.