wayfarer

The flanges are approximately the same thickness on the 218 and the 230+ engines, the difference is in the amount that the flange projects past the face of the block; 1"+/- for the 201-208-218 (US engines) and 1.1875" +/- for everything else. Either use the correct flywheel for the crankshaft or modify the bell as shown in the photos. Either way, make a note somewhere as to what/why.

Nice score on the package! The 727 is only slightly bulkier than the 904 so fitment is usually a non-issue. You definitely need the trans kick down linkage. The trans will die without it. The oem linkage is easy to adjust, just about any FSM between 1962 and 1992 has the details. As well, you can get the needed linkage from any car/truck with an A-LA engine. The B-RB powered cars will have very different intake manifold brackets, and, the A-LA brackets are slightly different between 2-bbl and 4-bbl. As noted, there are some aftermarket cable kits that can be had, your preference, your dollars.

And how many other 'things' that were commonly done in the 40's and 50's would land you in jail today? I know my calculator display doesn't have enough digits to count them all...

With regards to oil flow, if you feed to the center of the filter you will have a small amount of surface area for the oil to enter and, on old/dirty engines, a high probability of plugged media. Feeding to the exterior provides many times more surface area to capture junk. Additionally, if you swap to a spin-on, oil may not flow in reverse direction due to design.

Gotta agree with this!!

Here is another helpful site... http://www.transmissioncenter.net/SwapInformation.htm

I am constantly amazed at how many good project cars still turn up.

...ya know...we are woefully 'light' on photos....hint, hint...

...someone makes a TF adapter...

Can you post a photo of the back of the block ?

Correct on the NP535. Not a real robust unit, comparable to the AX5, used with 4-cyl packages, but handy for low-hp swaps. The 535 is getting hard to find since the original production numbers were low. Shop craigslist, I have found many of the various Dak units there. The AX5 and AX15 are the units with a most unique trans to bell bolt pattern and 'nearly' impossible to use the trans on another bell. The Novak offroad folks do have an adapter to bolt the AX15 to a 'normal' bell but be aware of sticker shock. This is the AX15 The Jeep guys love this trans and put crazy amounts of horsepower in front of them. They handle the abuse they see from the off-road work quite well. Some additional details on my website.

As an 'old' engineer, I wonder just how much time you have spent looking at your pile-o-parts before asking the initial questions. A 'good' engineer might ask about existing technology but, just perhaps, a 'better' engineer might have done more investigating first. So, does the M38 have an integral bell? And the input shaft length is...? And for the rest of the crew, some trans info. No pictures showing up yet... Thanks to Wiki for the chart IMHO, a giant waste of time when decent 5-speeds are readily available without the luxury car label...

Good questions, but...those of us stuck in the states don't get any of those 245/265 engines to play with...how does the back of the block compare to a normal inline flathead six?

218 flywheel only on a 218 crank, same with 230...different amount of flange extension (0.185") is made up by the flywheel so the ring gear still meets the starter pinion.

...and the auction bidding is over $1500 this morning. Almost any early 70's 2-dr will bring a couple of grand even if pretty rough.

You might have 'super' gear splits but the final is still only a .79 reduction...not that great, especially for an engine that really does not like rpms over 4500. Have you spent any time, at all, looking at the design of any flathead inline six? Yes, you can go fast with one, plenty of high dollar examples out there, so how fast can you afford to go? There aren't going to be any off-the-shelf adapters for the trans, and depending on the trans design (integral bell?) and input shaft length (probably short) making a one-off adapter will be in the $1k range if it is even practical. Yes we have made one-off adapters and they get very expensive. Perhaps you have an engineering background and your own machine shop...but then you would not be asking for the block pattern.

Can this engine be hotrodded? All it takes is time and money Is there a 12 vDC starter? Yes Is there a bellhousing pattern I can use for an adaptor plate? You can adapt at the block or the bell Would someone want this before I start to convert the chassis mounts? You started with an engine and now talking about ?? "Land speed racing"...as in Bonneville? Racing at Bonny starts with finding a class that you want to compete in and then designing a car for that class.

If you can inspect the 360 and get any hints as to a recent rebuild then the $800 is reasonable. Machine shop labor is easily that much.

Merle, thanks for posting the pics. I am definitely not a shiverlay fan, but that dually is impressive. I would want to get a much closer look.

I've been lurking, and will add my 2¢. There are some cylinder head/intake manifold differences between the 273 and the rest of the LA engines, so, keep in mind that you cannot just plop a 318 manifold on a 273. IMHO, you will be better served by using the 318-360. All of the LA engines are the exact same physical size. The logic is that if a 318 fits then a 360 will fit and at the same time provide more low speed torque. There were millions of each produced. Yes, you will need the rear sump pan as used in a pickup or van, and when you start looking you are as likely to find a pickup/van engine as a pass car engine. No, the 318 and 360 oil pans do not interchange. As to the durability issue, I bought new a 79 W150, 318-TF. I have long since stopped driving the truck but I did put 250K miles on it and the heads have never been off. Someday the truck will get a major re-do. As mentioned, the A-body driver side exhaust manifold nicely clears the steering shaft. Our very own Fester has a nicely detailed swap you should look at: http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/topic/25759-318-into-my-50-coronet/page-3?hl=fester#entry280886 As for disc brake up grades, connect with www.rustyhope.com If you choose to use an inliner, then as mentioned, you have many engine options and some nice dress-up parts to consider. A TF would make for an easy driver and with some creativity you should be able to use the existing column shifter. If you use the A500 overdrive then you will only be adding a on-off switch for the OD. This will also require that a new rear axle be installed since the original lacks an e-brake. As mentioned, the 251-265 are great engines to consider. Lots-o-torque. Almost forgot to mention...George Asche, at 814-354-2621. A wealth of info on inliners. If you call, remember that a 'short' conversation can last an hour. Keep us posted as you proceed. .

...just an observation, but I don't recall MotherMopar ever using a 3.43 gearset. The 3.55 was common with manual trans cars and a 3.31 was an early 8¾ option. Of course the 3.23 was found in just about everything. Not a big deal, just an observation. It would only affect your speedo gear selection.

...okaaay...I was only offering information that I thought was appropriate to the OP's initial query. Some folks love their flatty; some don't. It is neither right or wrong, it is just a matter of preference and disposable funding. We have all seen some very desirable cars with non-oem drivetrains and far too many with some damned shiverlay thing stuffed in them, at least the OP is keeping to the Mopar theme. Yes, the OP has a beautiful car. Will a Mopar v-8 swap, especially an EarlyHemi, hurt the value or collectability if/when he decides to sell it? Not in my estimation, but only if the swap and all of the attending little bits are faithfully executed.

...OK, a blatant plug for our little operation at this point... We have core engines available. We have transmission adapters available. We have transmissions available (but then, so does your local craigslist...) We have rebuilt and shipped engines through the US as well as to Europe. Since you are buying a core engine to start with then the only real add-on is some truck freight. But, as noted, and reference was made to a project covered on the Hamb, you must have sufficient knowledge, skills and tooling to make such a swap. I encourage you to at least contact Dan (who finished Pete's project) and have a conversation about all that was required and then decide if you have the ability to pull it off. If you really want the work done well and in a timely fashion and don't have the time/ability/facility/desire to do it yourself then sending the car out is not a bad thing. Beautiful car BTW.

There is a short circa '47 not far from me, sitting in plain view of Hwy 20 in the Plainview area. Kinda cute, but really, what would a guy actually use it for ? Convert it to a camper or ?

I would approach this from a slightly different angle. Does the seller have a price in mind? If he want $5k then your $1k will be a bit insulting. If he thinks $500 is fair then a $1k offer might cause him to start looking around and then raise the price. The only 'fair' price is one that both sides are happy with, regardless of actual market value.