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wayfarer

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Everything posted by wayfarer

  1. wayfarer
    There have been a variety of engine/trans swaps but the LA series is probably the leader. There are also plenty of other Mopar combos that are viable depending on your comfort level with electronics/computers. The 4.7 , although now 'old', is a decent engine, sorta compact, and makes plenty of power; the 3.7 v6 is compact and reasonably powerful; the 3.9 v6 is simply a 'short' 318 so it has history. If you cannot tolerate modern computer stuff then stay with 318-340-360. The Magnum will be the latest incarnation of the LA line.
  2. wayfarer
    I have an A-body driver side exhaust manifold if anyone needs such.......
  3. wayfarer
    Standard nuts. The oem used an internal tooth washer.
  4. wayfarer
    The 8.8 has been used in a variety of swaps and the offset does not seem to be a issue or, if it was, it was routinely left out of the discussion. As long as your drive shaft does not contact the floor then it should be good. The offset is a guarantee of keeping the u-joint working.
  5. wayfarer
    Use a remote with a minimum '-8' lines and fittings.
  6. wayfarer
    I make the TorqueFlite adapter for the L6 but, as mentioned, when you have collected the requisite pile-o-parts to finish the job it will be a fairly expensive pile unless you have a garage full of left-overs. Your best bet, IMHO, is to find a PowerFlite from the later 50's.
  7. wayfarer
    The Mopar crowd won't pay alot for it due to the shiverlay parts and the shiverlay crowd doesn't believe anyone except shiverlay built trucks in 56......I'd go $5k if the gm parts were removed.
  8. wayfarer
    I have them. See website.
  9. wayfarer
    Your wms measurement for 1953 is right at 60" Explorer wms, 1992-2009, is right at 59 1/2" Go to pick-n-pull, buy axle, strip off excess brackets. Go to trailer supply and buy 2 new spring perches and weld on (yes, some work is required)
  10. wayfarer
    Sounds like you have it pretty well figured out...now about that 392....?
  11. wayfarer
    Dan Babb installed an EarlyHemi in his truck and did a nice job! Dan's Hemi swap project - Mopar Flathead Truck Forum - P15-D24.com and Pilot-house.com (p15-d24.com)
  12. wayfarer
    Another project to pick ideas from: Dan's Hemi swap project - Mopar Flathead Truck Forum - P15-D24.com and Pilot-house.com (p15-d24.com)
  13. wayfarer
    Here is a project to look over: Dan's Hemi swap project - Mopar Flathead Truck Forum - P15-D24.com and Pilot-house.com (p15-d24.com)
  14. wayfarer
    Have you looked at the Dakota front clip vs the fatman?
  15. wayfarer
    I'm in the V8 camp simply for simplicity of parts. I'd even look at the 4.7 pieces. The electronics can be a puzzle unless you are steeped in the processes. If the trans is a 42RH then it will be easier than an 'RE' to work with. Good luck
  16. wayfarer
    The change from 4.10 to 3.73 is 10% and that is what you can expect in rpm change at each gear. It should not greatly affect around town manners.
  17. wayfarer
    You can look at the newer oem trucks for inspiration on the frame mounts for the goose neck parts. For the receiver I'd suggest mounting it a bit closer to the frame than what is in Brent's photo...?
  18. wayfarer
    The way it is strapped to the pallet I am surprised that it even made it to you....hopefully the shipper is paying for the repair.
  19. wayfarer
    I agree with Greg, not a good idea. If you want an FD package then find a 230-251-264 with one and swap it all.
  20. wayfarer
    You might want to re-visit Don's thread and 2x check the depth of the cut. I do believe that it should be 3/16". Recall that the smaller Plymouths, 201-208-218, have a slightly different crankshaft than all others. The face of the crank flange is only 1" from the face of the block; all other engines are 1-3/16 and the 3/16" difference is made up in the flywheels.
  21. wayfarer
    ...get out your tape measure....
  22. wayfarer
    IMHO, the strength of the rear axle is dependent on the size and how sticky the rear tires are. Every car/truck/tank/whatever will have a 'weak-link' and if you can generate enough torque then you will find it. The 9" and, especially the aftermarket 9", is overkill for 90% of the cars on the street. The 9" also suffers from the most parasitic power loss. The Mopar 8-3/4 is an excellent axle but now days expensive. The Ford 8.8 has proven itself as very durable. Until you make more than 500 lb-ft of torque you will be fine.
  23. wayfarer
    https://www.bing.com/search?q=torqueflite+wikipedia&form=ANNTH1&refig=ddc1517c42f64f27a351a0bb53ec452f&sp=1&qs=SC&pq=torqueflight+wiki&sk=PRES1&sc=1-17&cvid=ddc1517c42f64f27a351a0bb53ec452f As to the fitment in the car, this is a similar project https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/54-331-hemi-rebuild.738468/page-4 The body/frame/install work starts at post 97
  24. wayfarer
    Is the main seal bolt broken flush or is there a nub sticking up? If there is a nub, even small, then place a washer over it and make a generous plug weld to the nub. When is cools a bit then weld a large nut to the washer. The two heat cycles most often loosen up frozen bolts and you will also have a nut to put a box end wrench on. I have also had success with broken bolts that are slightly below the surface but it will leave scorch marks.
  25. wayfarer
    ...buy a proper square drive socket for pipe plugs. Using 'easy-outs' is rarely a good idea on a well seated plug as they increase the hoop tension and make the plug even harder to turn. Sunex 310pc on bay...................
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